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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTE»i.N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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:\ 


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4^ 


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7. 


Ci*- 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreprcductions  /Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


□    Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


D 


D 
D 
D 
D 

n 


Couverture  endommag^e 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurie  et/ou  pelliculAe 


r~~|    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relii  avec  d'aufes  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serrie  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
iistorsion  le  long  de  la  marge  Int6rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  djouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte. 
mais.  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmies. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  it6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquAs  ci-dessous. 


I      I   Coloured  pages/ 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 


I      I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


of 


Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pelliculdns 

Pacies  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  dicolories,  tacheties  ou  piqudes 


I      I    Pages  detached/ 


M  1 


Pages  ditach^es 


Showthrough/ 
^Zl    Transparence 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Quality  inigale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


D 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata.  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  filmies  i  nouveau  de  facon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


0 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  supplimentaires; 


irregular  pagination  :   [i]  -  iv,  [3]  -  249, 50  p. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


SOX 


y 

wr:^ 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


'6 

Stalls 
18  du 
nodifier 
ir  une 
ilmage 


iS 


The  copy  filmed  hare  has  baan  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  ganarosity  of: 

Seminary  of  Quebtc 
Library 

Tha  imagas  appearing  hare  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  orii^'nal  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  iaat  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


L'exemplaira  film*  fut  reproduit  grice  i  la 
gtnArositi  de: 

Siminaire  da  Quebec 
Bibliothique 

Les  images  suivantas  ont  At6  reproduites  avac  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nettetA  de  rexemplaira  filmA,  et  en 
conformity  avac  les  conditions  du  contrat  da 
filmage. 

Les  exemplelres  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  eatimprimAe  sont  filmAs  an  commen^ant 
par  la  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
darniire  page  qui  comporta  une  empreinte 
d'impreaaion  ou  d'lilustration,  soit  par  la  second 
plat,  aalon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exempiaires 
originaux  sont  film^s  an  commandant  par  la 
prami4re  page  qui  comporta  una  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'iliustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  darniira  page  qui  comporta  una  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  comain  tha  symbol  — »•  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  tha  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  appliaa. 


Un  dee  symbolas  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
darnlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE".  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


errata 
to 


pelure, 


32X 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hend  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


1 

2 

3 

Les  cartas,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  iue 
filmis  i  dee  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  hue 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA.  il  est  fiimA  i  partir 
da  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite. 
et  de  haut  en  bas.  an  prenant  le  nombre 
d'imagas  nAcessaire.  Las  diagrammas  suivants 
illustrent  le  mithode. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

^1  A{?,  A]R  A.,.F]|;{  O^Aj    IIMU^  fTW 


THE 


NORTHERN  TRAVeL 

/ 

CONTAINING  THE  ROUTES  Jp^ 

THE    SPRINGS,    NIAGAr' 


AND 


THE   COAL  MINES; 


WITH 


a^r^ 


A   BRIEF   GUID 


S^^ 


)^T0 


--   THl^^r^lNU   akRiH^AKb  SOI 
O^JVTE^TER^U??,. 


BY  THEODORE  DWIGHT,  Jr^Zj 


..^       o' 


WITH  EIGHTEEN 


SIXTH    E^j^-^N,  •  •  V.*4*\ 
EEN  MAPS,  AWNINfcii}ANlisiS«*. 

(        .'  ;  i.  .,»^      1 

JOHN   P.  ^iVVEN,'      ^" 
LER.  PUBLISHER^Ail^  s|>Vfc^R, 
199  Broadway,  *«*-"^*^ 

1841. 


ri     * 


John  P.  Mavkn, 
•n  .h.  Cck',  omoe  of  .„„  s„,„t„„  „,.„,^,  ^^  ^^^_^^^^^ 


PREFACE. 


l.by 
ork. 


This  Sixth  Edition  of  the  Nortliern  Traveller  is  pub- 
lished when  the  previous  editions  have  been  for  some  time 
out  of  print;  so  that  it  seemed  to  be  urgently  demanded. 
The  work  has  undergone  a  most  thorough  revision,  as  the 
numerous  and  important  changes  in  the  country  required. 

The  traveller  will  find  in  it  a  larger  amount  of  informa- 
tion than  at  any  former  period,  as  the  matter  has  been 
much  condensed,  almost  every  page  has  received  some  ad- 
dition or  abridgement,  and  large  portions  have  been  writ- 
ten anew.  Perfect  accuracy  is  hardly  to  be  expected  in  a 
work  comprising  such  a  number  and  variety  of  details, 
many  of  which  are  of  a  changeable  nature:  but  exertions 
have  been  made  to  render  it  accurate,  as  well  as  replete 
with  information  and  suggestions  best  adapted  to  the 
convenience,  gratification  and  improvement  of  the  mass 
of  intelligent  travellers. 

Notices  of  places  or  objects  appropriate  to  the  sphere 
of  this  work,  transmitted  by  persons  in  any  part  of  the 
country,  will  be   attended  to   in   future   editions  of  the 


IV 


PREFACE. 


Northern  Traveller;  as  the  author  has  resumed  his  origi, 
nal  intention,  formed  after  travelling  abroad,  of  furnishing 
a  Guide  Book  for  the  principal  routes  in  his  own  country 
keepmg  pace  with  the  progress  of  society  and  public  ij, 
provements. 


i! 


his  origi- 

umishing 

country, 

ublic  inv 


w 


il 


1:! 


^Vff/^  ftf^f/tt'  A',>tf/f, 


I II 


,,^!t*-' ■■.,,, ., 


GENERAL    INDEX 


City  of  New  York, 
Route  up  the  Hudson, 

"      to  Niagara,         , 
Routes  to  Ohio,  &c. 
Route  from  Albany  to  the  Springs, 

"      to  Lake  George, 

"       to  Canada,  ,         . 

Tour  of  New  England, 
Route  up  Connecticut  River, 

"      from  New  York  to  Boston, 

"         "     Boston  to  the  White  Mountains, 

•*         "     Boston  to  Maine, 

Philadelphia, 

Route  to  the  Pennsylvania  Coal  Mines, 
Baltimore,  •         .         .         . 

Washington, 

Route  to  the  Virginia  Springs. 

Routes  from  New-Orleans  to  New-York^ 


.       13 

.      32 

67,221 

31,74 

88 

104 

141 

145 

166 

186 

203 

223 

227 

220 

215 

239 

241 


i 


I 


t 


I 


VIEWS  FROM  NATURE. 


1.  Frontispiece,  View  of  Niagara  from  helow 
Table  Rock. 

2.  Scenery  on  Mohawk  River,  failing  page 

3.  Ballston  Springs  .... 

4.  Saratoga  Springs  .         .         .-         * 

5.  Lake  George        ..... 

6.  Ruins  of  Ticonderogn  from  the  east 

7.  The  same  from  Mount  Independence     . 

8.  Southerly  view  from  Mornt  Holyoke 

9.  The  Notch  House,  White  Mountains 


VKGt 


^^ 

82 
84 
90 
100 
104 
1.56 
195 


MAPS 
Of  the  Roads,  Canals,  Railroads,  <$-j. 


No.  2. 
No.  3. 
No.  4. 

No.  5. 


(( 


General  Map  of  the  Routes  in  the  Northern  States, 
No.   1.    Hudson  River,   from   the  mouth  to  Croton 

River, 
"        to  Kmffston  . 

"  "        to  Albany 

Mohawk    River  to  Utica,  with  a  Profile  o 

the  Erie  Canal 
"        to  Syracuse  t 

No.  6.  Thence  to  Cayuga  Lake     . 
No.  7.  Thence  to  Canandaigua 
No.  8.  The'.ce  to  Rochester  and  Batavia    . 
No.  9.  Ther.r^e  to  Niagara  .... 
No.  10.  Buffalo  and  its   vicinity,   with  a  Profile  of 
the  Weliand  Canal 
To    Glenn's   Falls,    with  Saratoga  Springs 
and  Battle  Ground,  Schenectady  and  Pro 
file  of  the  Champlain  Canal 
No.  12.  Lake  George 

No.  13.  Do.  Northern  part  and  Lake  Champlain 
No.  14.  Lake  Champlai:i,  northern  part 
No.  L5.  St.  John's,  Montreal,  &c.    . 

•.  16.  Montreal  Island      . 
nnecticut  River,  lower  part         <  , 


PAGE 


Noll. 


5 


14 
16 
21 

32 
32 

45 
46 
48 

62 


30 
88 
98 
108 
110 
118 
145 


t 


Tftfi 


NORTHERN  TRAVELLER. 


f 


THE  CITY  OF  NEW-YORK. 

Remarks  io  the  Traveller  at  Ncw-YdtL 

It  is  recommended  to  such  travellers  as  have  not  formed 
a  plan  for  their  journeys,  to  turn  to  the  general  map  of' 
the  routes,  page  1.     He  may  go  to  Boston  by  the  Provi^ 
dence  steamboats    and  railroad,  or  by  the    Stonington 
steamboats  and  railroad  through  Providence,  or  by  the 
Norwich  steamboat  and  railroad  through  Worcester,  or  by 
the  New-Haven    steamboat,    the    railroad  to    Hartford, 
and  stagecoach  to  Worcester,  or  steamboat  or  stagecoach  trf 
Spnngfield  railroad.     Those   who  wish  to  see  Connecti^ 
cut  river  may  take  a  steamboat  to  Hartford.     For  AI- 
bany,  take  a  steamboat.     Before  1842,  a  railroad  is  ex- 
pected to  be  in  use  from  Bridgeport,  Con.  to  Albany, 
^hQn  that  route  may  be  preferred  by  some.     A  steam- 
boat goes  to  Bridgeport. 

Fol-  Philadelphia,  take  the  railroad  line  from  Jersey 
city  by  crossing  the  Hudson  from  Barclay-street. 

Other  rail-roads  are  to  be  made :  one  from  South  Brook* 
Ign  to  Oreenport,  east  end  of  Long  Island,  to  cross  to  the 
Boston  railroads.  The  Harlem  railroad  is  to  be  ex* 
tended  to  Albany,  140  miles. 

The  proposed  route  of  a  railroad  from  New-York  to 
Albany,  (147  3-4  miles,)  runs  through  Westchester  coun- 
i^'JL"^"^'"'  t>«tche8s  and  Columbia  counties  to  Green- 
°"^PPosite  Albany,  and  on  to  Troy.  It  passes  oJong 
the  Valleys  of  the  Bronx,  Croton,  Ten  m.  r.  Ancram, 
i-Iine,  and  a  branch  of  Kinderhook.    It  is  nearly  straight, 


8 


THE    CITT    Ol-    a£W-TORK. 


except  where  it  npproaches  Hudson,  and  13  from  15  ta* 
*D  miles  east  of  the  river.     This  route  avoids  the  Hi.rh- 
lands,   except  at  a  point   where  they  arc  only  769  feet 
above   tide :  that  is,   50  miles   northeast  of  West  Point. 
Maximum  grade  30  feet,  and  locomotives  can  pass  at  12' 
»  miles  an  hour. 

The  stranger  is  advised' to  purchase  a  pocket  map  of 
i\ew-\ork  and  other  cities  as  he  visits  them. 

The  principal  objects  worthy  of  attention  will  be  here 
mentioned  in  order,  as  they  present  themselves  to  .1  per- 
son proceeding  north  from  the  southern  point  of  the  city. 

The  Battery,  perhaps  the  finest  public  walk  in  the 
Union,  IS  the  favourite  retreat  in  warm  weather.  It  is  ex- 
posed to  the  sea  breeze,  and  affords-  an  agreeable  shade 
and  a  view  of  the  inner  harbour,  with  part  of  Long  Island' 
on  the  left.  Governor's  Island  with  its  fort  and  castle' 
the  Narrows,  and  Staten  Island  below,  Bedlow's  and  Gib- 
bet Islands,  and  New-Jersey  beyond  them,  with  Jersey 
City  »ind  Hoboken  village.  Castle  Garden  is  a  place  of 
refreshment,  formed  of  a  fort,  where  music  and  fireworks 
are  ofteii  provided  in  warm  evenings.  A  fort  was  built 
on  the  Battery  in  1623,  which  included  all  the  houses. 
It  was  afterwards  enlarged. 

Southeast  of  the  Battery  is  Whitehall  Slip,  where  are- 
the  steam-boat  ferries  for  Staten  Island  (12  cents,)  and 
bouth  Brooklyn,  (4  cents.)  Washington  and  Greenwich- 
streets  begin  at  northwest  corner,  extending  about  two 
miles  north  There  are  the  steiimhoats  of  the  Philadelphia 
railroad  line,  and  those  for  Providence. 

Broadway  begins  at  the   Bowling  Green,,  an  oval  piece 
Aj^ri'"'^;^^^"  feet  by  220.     Here  are  the  Atlantic  and 
Adelphi  Hotels,  and  many  hotels  and  fashionable  board- 
ing houses  above.     Grace  Church,  on  the  left,  stands  on 
the   corner  of  Rector-street,   which  leads  to  the   Havre 
packets.     Trinity   Church  is  rebuilding.     Wall-street  is 
opposite,  and  has  most  of  the  banks  and  brokers'  offices. 
Ijie  new.U.  S.  Custom-house,  corner  of  Nassau-street  is 
of  white  marble,  89  feet  by  177,  on  the  model  of  the  Par- 
thenon of  Athens,  with  two  facades  with  Doric  colunnjt, 
32  feet  high,  a  central  hall,  and  a  dome  G2  feet  in  diame- 
ter.    It  will  cost  half  a  million.  W" 
The  New- York  Exchange,  entirely  of  Q^^ncy  Sie- 


THS    city   of    NEW-TORlC. 


"9 


from  15  ta« 
Irt  the  High- 
ly 769  feet 
Vest  Point. 
I  pass  at  12' 

:ket  map  of 

vill  be  here 
es  to  .1  per-- 
)f  the  city, 
mlk  in  the 
^     It  is  ex- 
ible  shade,, 
.ong  Island, 
and  castle, 
's  and  Gib- 
>ith  Jersey 
a  place  of 
i  fireworks 
:  was  built 
he  houses. 

where  are- 
^ents,)  and. 
jreenwich- 
about  two 
liladelphia 

oval  piece 
lantic  and 
ible  board- 
stands  on 
he  Havre- 
11-street  is 
rs'  offices. 
i-9treet,  is, 
fthe  Par- 
colunitts, 
in  diame- 

jincy  Sie» 


rtitc,  three  stories  high,  and  a  basement,  covers  a  blocks 
between  four  streets,  and  is  197  feet  7  inches  on  Wall- 
street,  144  on  one  side,  and  170  on  the  other,  with  a 
large  dome  abo\e,  100  feet  high.  This  covers  the  circu- 
lar CKchange  room,  95  feet  liigh,  and  80  in  diameter.  In 
front  is  a  row  of  12  Ionic  columns,  with  6  more  at  the 
door.  The  shafts  are  single  stoies,  32  feet  8  inches  lono-, 
and  from  4  feet  to  4  feet  4  inches  in  diameter  at  the  base,' 
those  on  the  wings  weighing  about  33  tons,  and  the 
others 35.  Each  cost  about  $5,000.  The  building,  which 
is  nearly  complete,  contains  Mr.  Gilpin's  News  Room 
and  Packet  Office,  several  insurance  and  other  offices. 
The  Telegraph  is  to  be  kept  on  the  top  to  communicato 
with  that  on  Staten  Island.  The  great  fire,  in  1835,  des- 
troyed the  former  Exchange,  but  did  not  cross  Wall- 
street.     It  swept  down  to  Old  Slip. 

Proceeding  up  Broadway,  you  pass  Cedar  and  Court- 
landt-streets,  which  lead  on  the  left  to  some  of  the 
Albany  steam-boats,  and  the  ferry  to  Jersey  City,  6  cents. 
(Thence  the  railroads  lead  to  Newark,  25  cents,  Eli- 
zabethtown,  Rahway  and  New-Brunswick  to  Philadel- 
phia; also  to  Paterson.  Fulton-street  leads  (right)  to 
Fulton  Market,  Brooklyn  Ferry,  (3  cents,)  the  Connecti- 
cut and  Flushing  steamboats,  gome  of  the  Liverpool  pac- 
kets, &c. 

At  the  corner  of  Vesey-street  is  St.  Paul's  Church, 
with  an  epitaph  in  front  to  -Gen.  Montgomery,  whose  re- 
mains were  brought  there  from  Quebec  in  1818.  Oppo- 
site is  the  American  Museum  with  four  stories  filled  with 
stuffed  animals,  &c.  Ann-street  leads  to  the  rooms  of 
the  Reformed  Dutch  Church  Missionary  Society,  Episco- 
pal Sabbath  School  Society ;  American  Bible  Society;  De- 
pository and  Printing  Office  ;  Clinton  Hall,  where  are  the 
Mercantile  Library,  (20,000  vols.)  reading  and  lecture 
room,  and  exhibition  room  of  the  National  Academy  of 
Design ;  American  Tract  Society ;  American  Sunday  School 
Union  Depository ;  and  American  Board  of  Foreign  Mis 
»ions. 

In  Chatham  Row  are  the  Park  Theatre  and  the  Brink 
Church.  The  Pa.-h  (10  3-4  acres,)  contains  the  City 
fcla.l,  (216  feet  by  0.,)  of  white  marble,  and  rear  of  free- 
stone, cost  $538,7;i^,    with  roonos    for  courts,    common 


10 


THK   CITY  OF  NEWpTORK. 


If 


council,  mayor,  governor,  &c.  and  several  portraits,  an^ 
Mechanics'  Institute  ,n  the  basement.  The  alarm-bell  h 
hung  above,  and  the  cupola  commands  a  general  view  of 

t,TT  f  m'  ""r  ^"^  ^^''  contains^he  AmTrLn 
Institute  of  Manufactures,  which  holds  a  splendid  fair  and 
exhibition  at  Niblo's  in  September. 

In  Chambers-street  are  the  Savin^,g  Bank,  the  Arcade 
Baths,  and  the  Reservoir  of  the  Manhattan   Company 
which  supplies  some  of  the  streets  with  water. 

l„,^K-^T'",f  ^'''''r  ^T^^^y  '"  P^^'^  P'«*=«'  w«  find  C). 
lumbia  College,  founded  in  1750  as  King's  Colle-e  ~ 

President  Duer.  Behind  it  is  the  Grammar  sJhool, 
Professor  Anthon  Above  the  Park,  Duane-street  leadi 
on  the  right  to  the  Halls  of  Justice,  the  City  Prison 
built  of  Sienite  m  the  Egyptian  style.  Gothic  Hall  ii 
near  Pearl-street,  opposite  which  is  the  City  Ho«.pitaI 
iTstreer  754-  l"^^  ^r^^y^^^nry,  com'er  of Xt 
otTu  ^'  A  ^fp^^^l'^-^^reet  leads  on  the  left  to  tho 

2rm,  "04!'  ''"'^  ^^"''^'  °"^^"^"y  i"  ^^« 

.r,!"^"*'""  ^^5^L  I'  '"""^  •^^'^^"^^  northwest  from  this 
spot,  4  acres,  with  St.  John's  Church,  240  feet. ) 

In   White-street,  (right  from  Broadway,)  is  the  City 

Dispensary,   1790,  with  the   Eye  and   Ea/  Infirmaries! 

iii^U.     Canal-street  has  a  sewer  underground,  and  on  the 

»-.ght  from  Broadway  are  the  Gas  Light  CompanvlXkT 

?0Tr'n  „Th'"i°"^^'  ^"'^  "  •'"^^'  Sy'nagogue'^-There te 
lU  or  11  other  Synagogues,  most  of  them  recently  formed 
^emigrants  from  Bavaria,  &c.     The  Manhattan  g2 
Works  are  at  the  foot  of  Eighteenth^treet. 
Above  are  the  Circus  and  Tattersalls' ;   above  Snrinff- 

ofT.^'^^'H-'''"^^":  u^P'''^^"^'  *h«  New-York  LyS 
of  Natural  History  with  a  fine  collection.     The  Stuyv^, 

sandt  Institute  is  several  streets  above,  with  the  Sa^ 

Jo'.  are^hl'T'''^  ^°"'?V  -J"  Crosby-street  behind  Ni£ 
11  .1  c  Apprentices'  Library,  1820,  with  20,000  vol- 
ume the  School  of  the  Mechanics'  Society,  a  Syna^gue 
and  the  College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons.  ^"^°^"^' 
TrN"'*' v'  !' T?'.'°  Washington  Square,  9  3-4  acres. 
FrJlfnl^r  Y°^\University  fronts  it,  1831.  Chancello; 
irelmghuysen.      It  has  a  large  grammar  «chool.     Tho 


rtm   CITY   OF   NEW-YORt. 


11 


i?resl)yterian  Theological  Seminary  i3  above,  and  has  th« 

library  of  Leander  Van  Ess. 

The  Marble  Cemetery  is  in  Great  Jones-street,  east  of 

Broadway.     The  City  Reservoir  is  in  Thlrteenth-s 

Water  is  raised  by  a  steam  engine  from  a  ^ 

deep,  and  conveyed   to  the  south  in  pipes, 

fires  without  the  use  of  fire  engines.     Tl 

duct,  45   miles   long,   to  supply  drinkabi 

whole  city,  is  partly  made,  and  will  cost 
The  Retreat  for  Juvenile  Delinquenlti 

Broadway  ;   the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylur 

street,  near    the  Harlem  railroad,    Mr. 

The   Blind  Asylum,  1831,  Sixth  Avenue 

cond  street,  Mr.  Jones.     The  General  Epi^opal^colo-    . 
gical  Seminary,   1819,   Ninth    Avenue    and    Twe*TSi(^r«fa^^* 

street.     The  Lunatic  Hospital  is  six  miles   noith.     The 

Almshouse  is  on  the  East  river,  and  beyond  is  Blai-kweil's 

Island,  with  the  Penitentiary  and  Lunatic  Asylum,  and 
the  Poor  House  Farm  opposite,  with  the  School.  The 
Orphan  Asylum,  Half  Orphan  Asylum,  Institution  for 
Aged  Indigent  Females,  and  17  Public  Schools. 

Hudson  river  was  discovered  in  1609,  by  Henry  Hud-  ' 
son.     First  settlement  by  the  Dutch,   near  Albany,  1610, 
to  trade    with  the  Indians  in  furs.     (This  trade  yielded 
ubove  $50,000   in  1632.)     First   fort   in  Nwu'-York   m 
1612,    near  the  corner  of  Broadway  and  Ganlen-street. 
In  1623,  a  large  fort  on  the  Battery,  enclosing  the  village, 
the  island  having  been  purchased.     Captured  by  the  En- 
glish in  1664,  retaken  1673,  restored   1674.     First  post* 
rider  to  Boston,  1673,  going  once  in  three  weeks.     First 
stagecoach  to  Boston,  1723,  once  a  month.     1765  a  Con* 
gress  of  delegates   met.     January    1776,    the  American 
army  began    to   assemble    for   the    defence    of  the  city. 
August  26th,  the  Battle  of  Long  Island,  after  which  the 
British  army  occupied  the  city  till  end  of  the  war.     Sep- 
tember  21st,  492  houses  burnt.     Evacuated  by  the   Bri- 
tish army  and  entered  by  Washington,  November  25th, 
1783.     All  the  churches  except  one  had  been  burnt  or 
occupied  by  soldiers. 

1785  Congress  met  in  the  old  City  Hall,  wh^re  the 
new  Custom  House  is.  1789  Washington  inaugurated 
President  there.     Free  School  Society  incorporated  1805. 

2  * 


12 


THE   Cltr  or  KKW-toRK, 


I       i 


!if 


The  Great  lire  December  16,  1835.  I088  about  eighteen 
iniJhons.  The  latiiudo  of  the  City  Hall  u  40°  42'  40'^ 
N    Longitude   74^  1'  8"  W.  from  Greenwich. 

LxcUKSioNs.  Numerous  pleasant  excursions  may  be 
made  from  New^ York  m  various  directions.  Manhattan 
Island  affords  several  agreeable  rides;  and  also  Long  Isl- 
and and  the  neighbouring  parts  of  New..Jersey. 

Brooklyn,  on  Long  Island,  opposite  New-York,  is  the 
second  city  for  size  in  the  state,  containing  about  40,00a 
inhabitants.     It  enjoys  a  fine  situation,  good  air,  pure  wa- 

visit  It.     Carnages  M^ill  take  him  from  the  feiries  to  any 

TA  t  •'^';:  ""1  New-York  from  Columbia-street,  oj 
the  heights,  is  the  finest  to  be  found. 

The  Lyceum,  Washington-street,  contains  a  fine  lecture 
room,  the  collection  of  the  Natural  History  Society,  City 
Libra.^,  and  Savings  Bank.  The  Navy  Yard,  one  mile 
northeast  irom  it,  is  worthy  of  a  visit.  There  is  the  Na- 
val  Lyceum,  with  a  fine  collection  of  natural  history,  &c. 

Greenwood  Cemetery,  two  miles  south  of  Brooklyn.  i» 
shady  and  picturesque,  with  sylvan  lake,  und  a  fine  view 
from  Mount  ^\  ashmgton.  You  pass  Gowannis  Cove,  the 
'1776.       '"''''  '^^""dshed  in  the  battle  of  Long  Island  in 

The  Jamaica  railroad  begins  at  the  South  ferry.  Fort 
?  on  ""l' n  "I"  ™i^?  T'^  °'  Brooklyn.  Fort  Lafayette 
commanding  fine  views.  ' 

Prince's  LiNNiE  AN  Garden  at  Flushing.     The  excur- 
sion to  this  beautiful  garden  and  nursery  is  very  pleasanJ 
Ihe   steamboat  leaves  Fulton-street  slip  at  four  o'clock 
in    the   afternoon  every  day,  and  affords   a  view  of  the 
most  interesting   parts  of   the  East  river,  including  the 

pleasant.  1  he  garden  of*  Mr.  Prince  wilLsupply  stranger, 
of  taste  and  science  with  rare  seeds,  plants,  flowers  and 
trees   and  has  already  done  much  to  introduce  useful  and 

hnThl'i  J''"^  'T?,  '^''  """"^^y-  I'  ^'^^  first  esta- 
blished about  the  middle  of  the  last  century. 

The  four  hothouses  contain  about  20,000  plants  in  pots; 
and  the  garden  covers  about  thirty  acres.  The  species 
und  varieties  of  trees  and  plants  amount  to  about  8000, 


TUI  BVDflON  RIVXII. 


19 


It  eighteen 
)o  40/  4Q// 

ns  may  be 
Manhattan 
3  Long  lal- 

ork,  is  the 

out  4o,mo 

r,  pure  wa- 
ger should 
Ties  to  any 
i-street,  on 

fine  lecture 
ciety,  City 
i,  one  mile 

is  the  Na- 
story,  &c. 
rookiyn,  i» 
a  fine  view' 

Cove,  the 
f  Island  in 

rry.  Fort 
t  Lafayette 
ten  Island, 

rhe  exeor- 
y  pleasant, 
ur  o'clock 
iew  of  the 
iluding  the 
small,  but 
I  strangers 
owers  and 
useful  and 
first  esta- 

its  in  pots ; 
he  species 
tout  8000^ 


M^hich  is  considered  the  most  numerous  collection  in  Ame- 
Hca.  The  proprietor  eXerts  himself  to  obtain  all  the  na- 
tive productions,  as  well  as  all  interesting  exotics,  and  for 
specimens  forwarded  to  him  he  offers  to  make  satisfactory 
returns  from  his  own  collection.  Thompson's  History  of 
Long  Island,  and  the  Picture  of  New-York  will  be  inte- 
resting to  travellers  of  taste. 

Bath,  Rockaway,  and  GhavesenD,  on  Long  Island, 
and  Long  Branch,  in  New-Jersey,  fine  situations  on  the 
seacoast,  are  among  the  most  attractive  for  bathing,  &c. 

Orange  Springs,  near  Newark,  and  Scholey's 
Mountain,  are  resorts  during  the  warm  seasons,  particu- 
larly for  visiters  from  New-York*  The  situations  are  very 
pleasant,  ii:  variegated  tracts  of  country,  and  afford  a  most 
agreeable  retreat,  with  fine  air  and  good  accommodations. 

PASSAGE  UP  THE  HUDSON  RIVER. 

On  leaving  New-York,  the  traveller  finds  himself  in 
the  midst  of  a  fine  and  varied  scene.  The  battery  lie* 
behind  him,  with  Governor's  Island  and  Castle  Williams 
projecting  beyond;  still  more  distant  opens  the  passage 
called  the  Nuirows,  with  Staten  Island  on  the  right,  lead- 
ing to  Sandy  Hook  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  which  is  23 
miles  from  the  city.  On  the  west  side  of  the  bay  are 
Bedlow  and  Gibbet  Islands,  with  fortifications }  the  point 
&t  the  mouth  of  the  Hudson  is  Powles'  Hook,  on  which 
stands  a  neat  town  in  New-Jersey  called  Jersey  City> 
and  the  village  of  Hoboken  is  seen  a  mile  or  more  up  the 
river.  The  hills  of  Wehawken  appear  beyond:  as  the 
boat  moves  rapidly  on,  it  passes  the  crowded  line  of  build- 
ings in  Washington-street,  the  Episcopal  Seminary,  and^ 
at  a  greater  distance,  the  Blind  Institution. 

At  Wehawken,  under  a  ledge  of  rocks  facing  the  river, 
and  about  the  distance  of  three  miles  from  the  city,  is  the 
spot  where  General  Alexander  Hamilton  fell  in  a  duel  with 
Colonel  Burr.  This  was  the  common  duelling  ground  for 
combatants  from  this  city,  and  msiny  lives  were  afterward* 
lost  on  the  fatal  spot. 

The  Pal  IS  ado  Es — a  remarkable  range  of  precipices 
of  trap  rock,  which  begin  near  this  place,  extend  up  the 
river  on  the  west  side  twenty  miles,  to  Tappan,  and  form 


u 


four  WASHlWflTOK. 


n  sin^ilar,  and  in  many  places  an  impassable  boundat-y. 
Insomo  placos  an  old  red  Hand.tono  foundation  is  .een 
be  ow:  but  the  groat  mass  of  the  rocks  presents  the  mu" 

YofkvuL  ";  i  ^""'  '"^  ^.^^^  ''•'^-  O"  ^ho  opposite  side  is 
Vorkville,  and  the  route  of  the  unfinished  Croton  Aqueduct. 

is  a  In^ia^^Vf-     '  Vu  "•  ''^""^  '^"^"  •"•'««  fr""'  ^he  city, 

ing  situaUon";    ^"^  "  "'""'*  °''^"P^*"^  ^  command 

Harlem  Heights  are  a  short  distance  further.     They 

fom  an  elevated  ndge  across  Manhattan  Island,  on  ^vh^ch 

tiolL^l/r.  """""' ''^'  '^'■"^"  "P  during  the  Revolu- 
tion and  the  late  war,  quite  over  to  the  East  river. 

the  brow  of   he  Palisadoes.  more  than  300  feet  above  the 

P        M^  ^^^  '^^  ^^'^  '^'"^  "^"^«  '«  "ear. 
..n.;  7  ^  ^^^At^^-^on  was  a  fortress  on  the  top  of  a  high 

S  W  ''  T  'n  T'  ''t  "^  '^''  "^«'''  12  miles  from 
bT  i"  ?'''"'''"''  1^^^'  ^^^^"  Gen.    Washington 

had  evacuated  the  city,  and,  subsequently  to  the  battle 
of  WhUe  Plams,  (for  which  see  just  beyond,)  had  drawn 
off  h,s  army  to  tort  Lee.  Fort  Washington  was  kept  gar- 

d ivlTon;'"T?'"^H"  ^  '  "^''^"'  ""^  '-^'^^  ^"^^'^^d  In  four 
divisions.  The  Hessians  and  Waldockers,  under  Gen. 
Knyphausen,  went  up  the  hill  on  the  north  side;   Gen. 

^a  d,'Tn.°"A"  '^'''  ^"t  '^^  ^^"^''^»^  "^ht  infantry  and 
guards,  intended^agamst  the  intrenchments,  which  reach- 
ed  almos   to  the  East  river.     Col.  Sterling  made  a  feint  of 
crossing  that  river  lower  down,  while  Lord  Percy  with  a 
very  strong  corps  was  to  operate  against  the  western  flank. 
I  he  Hessians  suffered  much  from  the  riflemen  in  pass* 
*ng  a  swamp,  but  succeeded,  with  the  other  divisions,  in 
dnvmg  the  Americans  into  this  fort,  where  they  all  sur- 
rendered    to  the  number  of  2G00  men,  including  militm. 
They  had  lost  very  few  ;  but  the  British  lost  about  800. 
rrn«L  ^as  immediately  evacuated ;  but  the  British 

cros  ed  so  speedily  at  Dobbs's  Ferry,  that  they  took  the 

can  arm'  ""'^""^^  '^°'^««'  baggage,  and  tents  of  the  Ameri- 

^ft^Ar"*!  ""^  .^""=  ^'''''^^'  ^"  October,  1776,  soon 
Jtter  the  American  troops  had  evacuated  New- York,  while 
General  Washington  had  his  army  assembled  at  Kings- 


boundary, 
on  19  seen 
ts  the  mu- 

from  thte 
)9ite  8idc  ia 
Aqueduct, 
Ti  the  city, 
command- 

er.     They 
on  which 
e  Revulu- 
er. 

Ituated  on 
above  the 

of  a  high 

lilea  from 

ishineton 

he  battle 

id  drawn 

kept  gar- 

d  in  four 

Jer  Gen. 

1«;   Gen. 

nlry  and 

:h  reach - 

I  feint  of 

y  with  a 

rn  flank. 

in  pass* 

lions,  in 

all  8ur- 

militia. 

800. 

British 

ook  the 

Ameri* 

6,  soon 
,  while 
Kingt' 


:i .  7.-,  F.„.,;  XV. 


f 


:!  t 


NEW-TORK   TO   ALBANT. 


15 


bridfjo,  and  tho  British  worn  in  posRession  of  the  islnnd  up 
us  far  as  Harlem,  General  Howe  went  up  the  East  river, 
with  an  intention  of  surrounding  tho  Anioricons.  He  left 
his  Gorman  corps  at  New-Roehelle,  and  marched  for  tho 
high  ground  at  White  IMuins,  several  milcg  east  of  tho 
lludson,  to  seize  the  interior  rood  between  tho  city  and 
Connecticut. 

Washington  penetrated  his  design,  ond  entrenched  him- 
self on  the  west  side  of  the  small  river  Bronx,  with  his 
right  on  Valentine's  hill,  and  his  left  on  White  Plains. 
Ho  had  garrisons  near  Harlem,  at  Kingshridge,  and  Fort 
Washington.  Skirmishes  were  kept  up  till  tho  British 
approached  very  near ;  when  Washington  assembled  all 
his  troops  in  a  strong  camp  on  the  heights  near  the  plains, 
with  the  Bronx  in  front  and  on  the  right  flank,  and  a 
mountainous  region  in  the  rear.  Ihe  right  was  more  ac- 
cessible; and  General  M'Dougal  was  sent  to  entrench 
himself  on  a  mountain  about  a  mile  in  front. 

On  the  morning  of  October  28th,  tho  British  advanced 
in  two  columns :  the  right  led  by  Clinton,  and  the  left  by- 
Gen.  Heister.  The  former  took  post  on  the  Mamaroneck 
road,  and  the  latter  on  the  Bronx, — the  armies  being  a  mile 
distant.  Col.  Ralle,  with  a  Hessian  regiment,  fell  upon 
Gen.  M'Dougal  in  flank,  while  Leslie  attacked  him  in  front 
with  a  brigade.  The  militia  soon  fled,  but  the  regular 
troops  resisted  until  overpowered.  Washington,  therefore, 
retired  to  Nortli  Castle ;  and  soon  after,  securing  the  bridge 
over  the  Croton,  and  Peekskill,  crossed  the  Hudson. 

Fort  Independence,  on  the  east  side.  Opposite,  the 
Palisadoea  are  of  still  greater  height. 

Dobb's  Ferry,  10  miles  farther  TappanBay  is  from 
throe  to  five  miles  wide,  eight  or  nine  in  length.  Haver- 
straw  Bay,  still  larger,  lies  just  above. 

Tappan,  25  miles  from  New-York.  Here  Major  An- 
dre was  executed,  after  a  short  imprisonment."  Here 
will  begin  the  New-York  and  Erie  Railroad,  which  is  to 
extend  through  Goshen,  Deposit,  Binghampton,  Owego, 
hlmira.  Corning,  Hornellsville,  and  Clean,  to  Dunkirk 
on  Lake  Erie,  457  miles.  It  is  thought  that  the  whole 
distance  from  New  York  to  Dunkirk,  by  a  branch  from 
the  Hariem  railroad,  will  be  only  475  miles,  and  that  it 
will  cost  but  $6,000,000.     Two  branches  are  in  oneratinn. 


i6 


STATE   PRISON  AT   ftlNGSJINO. 


liil 


viz.  the  Ithaca  and  Owegu  railrosd,  29  miles;  and  the 
Corning  and  Blossburg,  Pennsylvania,  railroad,  40  miba. 

Tarrytown,  three  and  one  half  miles.  This  ia  the 
place  where  Major  ,idre  was  stopped,  returning  from 
iiis  visit  to  Gen.  A  ^old,  and  on  his  way  to  the  British 
lines.  The  place  w  ts  then  neutral  ground,  as  the  Ameri- 
cans and  English  lay  .-ncamped  above  and  below.  The 
tree  was  recently  standing  under  which  his  captors  search- 
ed him,  and  the  bank  near  by  concealed  them  from  hia 
view  a?  he  approached  them. 

The  State  Prison  at  Singsing  is  in  a  quadrangle  of 
nearly  44  by  480ft.  on  the  eastern  shore,  33  miles  from 
New- York.  It  has  a  double  stack  of  cells  built  back  to 
back,  four  tiers  high  and  200  on  each  tier :  in  all  800. 
Nine  feet  distance  ia  the  outer  wall,  which  supports  a 
gallery  running  all  around  ;  size  of  the  cells,  three  feet  six 
inches  by  seven  feet,  and  two  feet  door  way.  The  whole 
work  was  done  by  convicts,  and  a  great  p  irt  is  of  hewn 
Btone.     The  system  is  that  of  the  Auburn  prison. 

The  convicts  are  employed  in  quarrying  marble  from 
the  hill,  and  in  other  kinds  of  labour. 

The  Entrance  of  the  Highlands,  is  a  short  distance 
beyond  this  place,  and  40  miles  from  New  York  This 
is  a  region  no  less  remarkable  for  the  important  military 
events  of  which  it  has  been  the  theatre,  than  for  the 
grandeur  and  nobleness  of  its  natural  scenery. 

Stony  Point  The  little  rough  promontory  on  the 
left,  nearly  a  mile  below  the  entrance  of  the  Highlands, 
was  a  fortified  position  during  the  American  war.  The 
British  took  it  from  Gen.  Wayne  in  1778,  but  lost  it  again 
•the  same  year. 

Verplanck's  Point,  on  the  opposite  side,  was  also  the 
site  of  a  fort. 

FORT  MONTGOMERY  AND  FORT  CLINTON, 

five  miles  further,  on  the  west. 

These  forts  were  taken  by  Sir  Henry  Clinton,  on  the 
sixth  of  October,  1777.  His  object  was  to  co-operate 
with  Gen  Burgoyne,  at  that  time  closely  watched  by  Gen. 
Gates  near  Saratoga,  and  to  afford  him  an  opportunity  to 
force  hia  way  to  Hudsos  river,  by  effecting  a  diversion  in 
ills  favour.     For  this  purpose  Sir  H.  Cliaton  had  left  New- 


;  and  the 
,  40  mibs. 
lis  is  the 
ning  from 
he  British 
he  Ameri- 
ow.  The 
JTS  search- 
1  from  hia 

drangle  of 
liles  from 
It  back  to 
1  all  800. 
uppurts  a 
ee  feet  six 
rhe  whole 
of  hewn 

rble  from 

t  distance 
rk  This 
t  military 
n  for  the 

y  on  the 
lighland?, 
'ar.  The 
St  it  again 

ls  also  the 


NTON, 

n,  on  the 
o-operate 
d  by  Gen. 
rtunity  to 
■version  in 
left  New- 


It  o  c  K  I.  A  X  O 


W...7,,.,- 


A 


NBVV-YORK  TO  ALBANT. 


IT 


Yoi-k  with  3  or  4,000  troops,  embarl;ed  in  the  fleet,  and' 
landed  at  Verplanck's  Point.  The  next  morning  a  dfetach- 
ment  was  sent  to  Stony  Point,  and  marched  round  in 
the  rear  of  these  forts,  then  under  the  command  of  Gen. 
Putnam,  and  garrisoned  by  1000  continental  troops,  part 
of  whom  were  unfit  for  duty,  and  a  small  number  of 
militia. 

Gen.  Putnam,  apprised  of  the  landing  made  at  Ver- 
planck  s  Pmnt,  and  supposing  the  object  of  the  expedition 
to  be  Port  Independence,  had  crossed  the  river,  and  made 
preparations  to  oppose  them.     He  did  not  discover  their 
real  intentions  until  he  had  heard  the  firing  at  forts  Mont- 
gomery and  Clinton,  which  are  near  each  other,  and  were 
attacked  at  the  same  moment.     The  fighting  began  be- 
tween four  and  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  lasted 
till  dark,  when  the  Americans  having  lost  about  250  men, 
the  forts  were  surrendered;  but  all  the  garrison  who  were 
able,  about  450,  effected  their  escape,  with   the  governor 
and    his  brother,   ien.  James   Clinton.    The  British  pro- 
ceeded to  West  Point,  removed  the  chain  which  had  been 
stretched  across  the  river  to  prevent  the  passage  of  their 
ships;  and  a  part  of  the  fleet,  under  Sir  James  Wallace, 
went  up  to  Kingston,  with  Gen.  Vaughan  and  his  troops. 
Although  they  found   the  village  defenceless,  the  officers 
ordered  it  to  be  burnt,  on  the  13ih  of  October.     The  Bri> 
tish  proceeded  no  further  than  that  place;  for  the  news 
of  Burgoyne  s  surrender  being  received  a  few  days  after^ 
wards,  the  fleet  returned  to  New  York 

Anthony's  Nose.  This  mountain  (which  has  a  pro- 
file  resembling  the  human  face,)  rises  1228  feet  from  the 
river,  directly  opposite  the  mouth  of  Montgomery  Creek 
looking  down  upon  forts  Montgomery  and  Clinton.  Be' 
hind  the  lattor  is  Bh)ody  Pond,  where  the  bodies  of  those 
were  thrown  who  were  killed  in  the  defence. 

As  the  steamboat  proceeds  up  the  river.  West  Point 
makes  Its  appearance  on  the  left  hand,  with' the  ruins  of 
hour  FuTNAM  elevated  on  a  commanding  eminence,  a  little 
be>ond,  598  feet  above  the  water  level.  The  view  it  com- 
mands over  this  wild  and  mountainous  neighbourhood,  as 
well  as  us  connexion  with  our  history,  will  render  it  wor- 
thy ot  a  visit.  There  are  still  three  or  four  subterraneous 
-wras  to  be  seen,  and  the  place  is  so  oltea  visited,  that 


m 


':«J 


18 


NEW-YORK  TO  ALBAHT. 


the  path  is  plain,  and  leads  to  most  of  the  principal  objects 
within  it.  This  fortress  commanded  at  once  the  river 
above  and  below  West  Point,  and  the  passage  into  a  defile 
which  opens  through  the  mountains  westward.  That  de- 
file was  farther  defended  by  numerous  little  batteries  and 
redoubts  on  the  peaks  around  it. 

Kosciusko's  Retreat  is  near  this  place,  and  the  spot 
is  still  shown  where  he  cultivated  his  little  garden.  A 
monument  erected  to  him,  will  be  seen  on  the  rocks. 

West  Point.  This  was  a  military  position  of  great 
consequence  in  the  Revolutionary  war.  A  battery  was 
erected  on  the  extremity  of  the  point,  just  over  the  river, 
to  command  the  channel,  while  a  strong  iron  chain  was 
stretched  across  from  the  shore  below,  to  the  opposite 
side.  On  the  east  side  of  the  river  is  Cold  Spring, 
behind  it  is  the  West  Point  Foundry.  There  is  a  fine 
hotel  on  the  point. 

The  Military  Academy  or  the  Umted  States 
is  at  West  Point;  and  a  more  delightful  situation  for 
such  an  institution  could  hardly  have  been  selected.  It  is 
designed  for  the  instruction  of  young  men  destined  for  the 
army ;  and  secondarily  for  maintaining  the  military  science 
of  the  country.  The  Academy  was  established  in  1802, 
by  Gen.  Williams,  and  extends  only  to  the  instruction  of 
Cadets.  The  "number  of  pupils  is  confined  to  250  ;  and  in 
choosing  from  the  applicants,  the  sons  of  revolutionary 
officers  are  allowed  the  first  claim,  and  those  children  of 
officers  of  the  last  war  whose  fathers  are  dead,  the  next. 
The  law  prohibits  admission  under  14  years  of  age. 

The  level  on  which  the  buildings  of  this  institution  are 
erected,  is  188  feet  above  the  river,  though  it  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  having  once  formed  a  part  of  its  bed.  The  libra* 
ry  consists  of  a  large  and  valuable  collection  of  books,  on 
the  various  branches  of  military  science,  which  have  been 
obtained  with  great  assiduity  and  no  small  expense  from 
Europe. 

The  buildings  belonging  to  the  institution  are  five;  all 
large,  and  built  of  stone.  There  are,  besides,  brick  build- 
ings for  the  officers  and  professors ;  near  the  water,  some 
old  military  store  houses,  which  contain  arms,  &c.  used 
in  the  revolution. 

The  course  of  study  is  completed  in  four  yeart,  each 


WEST   POINT. 


al  objects 
the  river 

to  a  de6Ie 

That  de- 

teries  and 

the  spot 
rden.     A 

3cks. 

-<^| 

of  great 

'9 

ttery  was 
the  river, 

s 

hain  was 

opposite 

Spring, 

is  a  fine 

States 

m 

ation  for 

%9 

f»d.     It  is 

;d  for  the 

iiifl 

ry  science 
in  1802, 

Taction  of 

!) ;  and  in 

(lutionary 

lildren  of 

the  next. 

ution  are 

s  the  ap- 
rhe  libra* 

:M 

)ooks,  on 

lave  been 

nse  from 

Y- 

five;  all 

ick  build- 

'■ 

ter,  some 

•i 

&c.  used 

.M 

19 


being  devoted  to  a  class;  and  includes  the  French  lan- 
gjiage,    drawmg    natural   and  experimental  philosophy 
chemistry  and  mineralogy,  geography,  history,  ethics  S 

m  7' "^^'"^^'"  ^"  ^^^^'^^-^  bTanchis'^nl 
iastly,  artillery  and  engineering. 

^^"^^K^'T'"^^'  ^^""^  ^""y  a'  fo"r  P.  M.  and  is  sue 
ceeded  by  the  parade,  which  lasts  till  sunset.         ^     '""^ 

th«  r'*?''u  u  ^/^'^^CHERY.  In  September,  1780,  while 
the  British  hold  possession  of  Hudson  river  up  to  the  bor! 
clers  of  the  Highlands,  and  Gen  Arnold  was  in  command 
hero,  a  correspondence  was  carried  on  by  him  witlTthe 
Brui.h  othcers,  on  the  subject  of  surrendering  h     post 

It  was  determmed  that  a  meeting  should  be  h-ld 

Andre  was  sent  undor  cover  of  the  night  from  the  sIood- 
of  war  Vulture,  which  was  then  lyingin  Haverst  aw  bT 
to  a  place  which  had  been  appointed  for  the  conference." 

In^M    ^  A^  T'""  ^^  ^""'^  ^^-^  b^«"  «^"t  on  board  by 
Arnold    under  the  pretence  of  negotiating  about  an  ho- 

ZdttTV^^'r''"'^^^"'^'"^'^"^  h^  accompanied 
Andre  to  the  foot  of  a  mountain  called  the  Long  Clove 

on  the  west  side  of  the  river.     Here  they  found  Gen   Ar'- 
pMntment'^^'  ''-'  ''  ^^^-^  trees,\ccordintto  ^ 
Daylight  put  it  out   of  the  power  of  Maior  Andre  tn. 
pass  m  safety  the  posts  at  Verplanck's  and  sCny  Poh.ts 
He   was   therefore  obliged  to'^retire   to  Smith'^  house' 
and  change  his  dress  for  a  disguise.  ^' 

y^rrest  of  Major  Andre.     General  Arnold"  had  fnr. 

parted  vvith  Smith,  and  proceeded  alone  six  miles   when 


20 


KEW-YOBK     TO  ALP.ANT. 


all  tho   forces  of  the  garrison,  in   the   hand-writing  of 
Arnold. 

This  happened  on  ihe  23d  of  September.  A  messenger 
was  immediately  s(>nt  to  General  Washington ;  and,  at 
Andre's  request,  Lieut.  Col.  Jamieson  sent  to  Arnold 
to  inform  him  that  Anderson  was  taken.  The  lat- 
ter messenger  arrived  first;  and  Arnold,  as  soon  as  ho 
learned  the  truth,  rushed  down  a  very  steep  bank,  sprang 
into  his  boat,  and  ordered  the  rowers  to  take  him  on  board 
the  Vulture. 

His  Execution.  On  the  29th  of  September  a  board  of 
officers  was  appointed  for  the  trial  of  Major  Andre,  and 
sentenced  him  to  suffer  death  as  a  spy.  Oiyections  were 
made  to  this  sentence,  on  the  ground  that  Andre  had  been 
introduced  into  the  American  camp  under  the  passport  of 
one  of  our  officers  ;  but  the  delivery  of  Arnold  being  made 
the  condition  of  his  release,  and  that  being  refused  by 
the  British,  he  was  kept  in  prison  until  the  2d  of  October, 
when  he  was  hung  at  the  town  of  Tappan,  where  his  body 
was  afterwards  inteiTed. 

A  few  years  since  the  British  government  sent  to  this 
country  to  obtain  his  remains,  which  were  removed  to 
England,  and  placed  in  the  femily  vault  of  the  then  Prince 
Regent.  In  1827,  the  corporation  of  New-York  erected 
a  monument  over  the  grave  of  Paulding,  one  of  his  captors. 

At  leaving  West  Point,  the  traveller  will  observe  several 
remarkably  high  mountains  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  foi> 
which  he  ia  referred  to  the  map.  Putnam's  Rock  was 
rolled  from  the  top  of  Butter  Hill,  June  1778,  by  a  parly 
of  soldiers  directed  by  Gen.  Putnam. 

Newburgh.  This  is  a  town  of  considerable  size,  six 
miles  beyond  the  Highlands,  with  some  handsome  builds 


ings. 


V: 


Newburgh  is  advantageously  situated  for  the  eye  of  one 
approaching  it,  as  it  stands  on  the  declivity  of  a  hill  which 
slopes  handsomely  to  the  shore.  Half  a  mile  south  of 
the  village  is  seen  the  old  stone  house  in  which  Gen. 
Washington  had  his  head  quarters  when  the  celebrated- 
"  Newburgh  Letters  "  were  published. 

Matteawan  Factory,  Fishkill.     It  stands  near  the? 
river,  and  directly  opposite  Newburgh. 


vritirig  of 

nessenger 
;  and,  at 
;o  Arnold 
The  lat- 
oon  as  he 
ik,  sprang 
n  on  board 

a  board  of 
ndre,  and 
tions  were 
;  had  been 
passport  of 
(eingmado 
refused  by 
)f  October, 
e  his  body 

;nt  to  this 
emoved  to 
;hen  Prince 
rk  erected 
tiis  captors, 
irve  several 
le  river,  for 
Rock  W8ia 
by  a  parly 

e  size,  six 
lome  buildi- 


eye  of  one 
a  hill  which 
le  south  of 
which  Gen. 

celebrated- 
ids  near  the: 


'.V 

i 


i  f  ! 


lUiUiooli 


'4R 


1 

.1 
r. 


yllliVnl  sou 


.luliiislouii 


CATSKiLL   MOUNTAINS.  gj 

».teral  .  fell  „f  nearly  M  feTUlhf  "  '"''^'^  "^ 
on  great  wheels.  '  "  "'"5'  '"=  ^^''^  <«ed 

^- <.l.«Tve,  the  dismnt  rid^e  if  Ihf  cS  " ''T''^'' 
They  nowhere  approach  nearer  to  ,kl  ■  """""""'■ 
"..i«,  and  in  someplace,  r^riran^eveTsV""  "^'" 

the  gliaf  tou'r  which  we  areTn«  e  '"''"';'''"'  "••>"»  '» 
n>"y  be  accomplished  L  Tne'  d,  T^"';'"^-  ■^'"' .""' 
mny  be  a^reeahlt,  =„.„.  ■  "  ^  thoujh  two  or  three 

There  is  a  lar~  a„d  comm,^^       T""""  "■"Shbourhood. 
erected  at  theVi^e  Orchard   one'  f  h  "  ''^,  «^"'"'='i"n.e„t 

.ain,  about  3,000  feeT^hte'tr  rir' TirV-M  T'""- 

teX:l:-r:-:ti:£^-^-^ 

ning  the  ascent    whrhU  '^"  '?''^''  ^"^  '^^^  bigi„. 

thaf  affords  ih  v^^M  ce'eTT^  ^^^  ^ -"^-^  -ad, 
the  surrounding  coun  rv  *  fF'  ?  ""^"^  **  ^''"^P^^  at 
brings  th  .  visiter  to       ^'  '^  '"''^^^  °^  «"«^  travelling 

The  Pine  OncHAHn  tu-  • 
above  the  river?  scXeJ  Ihh'f  '  ''"'"  f^'"'"'  ^'O^O  feet 
with  anele,.ant'hou^!e  o  tra  ,[rtT';  and  furnished 
niodation  of  visiters  The  H  T  '  •  "'^^  ^°'  *^^  ^^^om- 
afar  through  its  verdJ  111  •"  ''  ^^^'^  binding  from 
71'ages,  and  i  :    u;t:^;t:>'^^^^^^  -«»•.-"   adomej  with 

descriptions.     ImmedLeJy  be  ow  I       ''"'^^  '^  ^""""^ 

*  The  forests  '^"  ^  ''^^    "  °^  """ 

quantities  of'tl.e\'frk^'i'efMl!°tlT'    ?'^'""    ''"••»'''''    '"'nmense 


i^ 


99 


THK   C1.T3KILL   MOU.'ITAINS. 


i     H 


;    > 


cultivated  mountains,  which  is  strikingly  contrasted  with 
the  charming  aspect  of  fertility  tha*  reigns  beyond,  and 
presents  all  the  variety  of  hill  and  vale,  town,  hamlet  and 

cottage. 

The  Round  Top  is  a  summit  of  greater  elevation  to- 
wards the  south,  from  which  the  view  is  more  extensive. 
It  is  3,718  feet  above  the  ocean. 

On  the  west  side  of  the  river  is  seen  part  of  the  counties 
of  Albany,  Greene,  Ulster  and  Orange;  and  on  the  east, 
part  of  Putnam  county,  and  all  of  Dutchess,  Colun  bia 
and  Rensselaer.  The  distant  high  land  in  the  east  .  p- 
longs  partly  to  Taughkannuc  and  Saddle  Mountains  m 
Massachusetts,  and  perhaps  partly  to  the  Green  Moun- 
tains  in  Vermont.  Lower  down  is  discovered  a  range  ot 
hills  in  the  western  counties  of  Connecticut.  The  eye 
embraces  a  tract  of  country  about  100  miles  in  length, 
and  50  in  breadth ;  and  a  large  part  of  it  is  supposed,  by 
geologists,  to  have  formed  the  bed  of  a  great  lake  in  some 
long  past  age,  when  the  Hudson  was  thrown  back  by  the 
barrier  presented  at  the  Highlands,  before  the  present 
chasm  had  been  cut  for  its  passage. 

Nearly  opposite  is  seen  the  old  Livingston  Manor, 
which  is  one  of  the  few  great  aristocratical  estates  exist- 
ing in  this  part  of  the  country.  It  originally  contained 
Clermont,  (14,000  acres,)  the  Manor  (146,000)  and  East 
Camp  or  Palatine,  (6,000.)  This  last  was  settled  by 
exiles  from  the  Palatinate  in  the  reign  of  Queen  Anne. 

The  Cascades.  West  from  the  Mountain  House  a 
path  leads  through  the  woods  to  the  cascades,  passing 
near  two  small  lakes,  from  which  the  supply  of  water  is 

The  stream  flows  throtigh  the  woods  to  where  the  level 
terminates,  very  abruptly,  at  a  high  and  shelving  preci- 
pice, descending  into  a  tremendous  gorge  between  ridges 
of  gloomy  mountains.  The  first  fall  is  175  feet,  and  the 
second  80 :  both  perpendicular,  without  a  single  protrud- 
ing rock  to  break  the  snow-white  sheet. 

A  building  is  erected  where  refreshments  may  be  ob- 
tained ;  and  on  the  right  is  a  steep  path  by  which  even 
iadieg  may  descend  in  safety  to  the  foot  of  the  falls. 

There  is  a  cavern  under  the  first  cataract,  where  the 
4ielving  rock  shelters  the  stranger  from  the  spray,  and 


CITY  01>  AlBinr, 


43 


pair-j.  °  """'""'    "f  gra»acke   remain,    uni^. 

delay  '       "''"  P""^"'^  "P  ""e  rivor  with  very  little 

river,  and  occuphf.  a  .r"f  """f  ™P°"""'  '"^ns  on  the 
em  bank,  wi  ^.eve^af  rTJ"       f*,  ""'""'""'  '"'  ">»  ™"- 

the    water"  levTonT'.'"^?  't""*'  '"'"•  °=" 
the    wa.e,.    iJ.f         ■     "■"•'roivof   the  ascent    from 

Tarm"^!  view  •/!:■""',''  fr'"^^"-   '""«    "hich    a 

andbeaatij,!^-;™:,;;:  r':ii,:''7A;^„r^"^<' 

^The  ra,lroad  lead,  Iro.n  Hudson  f„  We.t  S^kbridge, 

paS:  S",h"l''vrrieH'"-';r''T.""  ««''"''  "-•  ""J 
in..^.  ofcomltry.  '  "'"  '="l'"'«<'d  >"d  agreeable 

There  are  extensive  tnanufactories  in  this  vicinitv 
_^C.av,.rack  „  a  pleasant  village  a  few  t ITS' Hud- 

f- So^i'it  zr;otr™:r^« ""-"  -'-  -"- 

ALBANY,  145  mile,  from  New-York. 

Routes    from     Atpamv      c  , 

towards  allthe  four  en„lt,V     ^'"S^'='>f<'hM    run    daily 

quently  ,e.  offinleZt^'iZTol  °" I  7  "J!  T*"  '''^ 
ber  s  often  much  irrr>atolTu        i.        ,  Indeed  tho  num* 
much  greater  than  this  when  the  full  crowd 
J" 


.  » 


14 


LBBANON   9PUl(tGS. 


of  travellers  is  pressing  towards  this  city.  By  stoadf 
travelling,  you  may  go  to  liuil'ulo  in  three  days,  290 
miles.  Two  or  three  steamboats  go  daily  to  New-York; 
and  boats  go  on  the  canal.  The  circuit  and  delays  occa- 
sioned by  tlio  locks,  make  the  passage  to  Schenectady 
consume  a  whole  day  The  freight  boats  of  the  Trans- 
portation Companies  arc  very  numerous,  and  have  been 
fitted  up  very  comfortably  for  passengers,  and  convey 
them  at  a  loss  price  than  the  regular  packets.  For  the 
route  to  Niagara,  see  page  32.  For  other  routes,  &c. 
«ee  index. 

The  Capitol,  or  State  House,  occupies  a  commanding 
position  at  the  head  of  State-street,  and  contains  the 
Assembly  and  Senate  Chambers,  the  Supreme  Court,  the 
County  Court,  &c.  &.c.  It  is  115  feet  in  length,  90  in 
breadth,  and  50  high.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river 
is  Greenbush,  famous  for  more  than  a  century  as  a  canton- 
ment ;  and  the  deserted  lines  of  eutrenchment  are  clearly 
seen  from  the  State  House.  This  is  the  tirstpoint  worthy 
of  notice,  connected  with  the  colonial  wars  against  Can- 
ada. At  Greenbush,  the  troops  supplied  in  quotas  by  the 
eastern  colonies,  used  to  meet  those  of  New  Yoik;  and 
hence  they  proceeded,  under  commanders  appointed  by 
the  British  government,  against  their  enemies  in  the 
north. 

The  Academy  and  Female  Institute  are  large  in- 
stitutions for  the  higher  branches  of  education. 

LEBANON  SPRINGS,  26  miles  east  from  Albany. 

New-Lebanon  Spbings  is  one  of  the  most  delightful 
resoits  for  strangers,  in  point  of  situation,  being  in  this 
respect  incomparably  superior  to  en'ier  of  the  great 
watering  places,  Saratoga  and  Ballston.  Among  all  the 
places  which  might  have  been  selected  for  an  agreeable 
residence  in  the  warm  seasons,  and  calculated  to  please 
a  taste  for  the  softer  beauties  of  nature,  none  perhaps 
could  have  been  found  more  eligible  than  that  we  are 
about  to  describe. 

The  village  of  New-Lebanon  is  situated  in  a  little 
valley,  surrounded  by  fine  hills,  or  rather  spurs  from 
two  ranges  of  high  ground,  descending  with  a  rich  and 


A 


I'BBAWON   SPRIjroS. 


23 


turna.  >ariety  to  the  eyo  wherever  it 

place  (ts  cplolirilv  n„?l  ?J  qi"l"i,.s,  hus  given  ihe 

the  holel,  it  i,  belter  to    J^IT.F    '  5     u™,  "PP''""'^'""* 

«!><=  righ,;  as  .1.0  d irJc    r^Sd  „p'r°hilH'"'"  '""'  '"^ '? 
laborious  ^    "°  "'"  '^  ^^''y  steep  and 

over  the  surroundin,.    landscape       A   sTill   1     ^"'"^'''* 
sive  one  may  be  obninn,!  r.       \^  ^^^°   ^^t^"' 

by  followinff^he  road  for  n  •i^''  .^"'""'"  °^  ^^^  ^'"^ 

of  view  will  be  most  froquentlv  takL  K  •"^^'  f'"'"' 
account  of  the  facility  ofTccels  On  th  ^  ""''T''  °" 
the  road  to  Norrbnmr.t«  .'''^^^^l*  ^"  ^he  southeast  8 
sive  scene  and  ti^,'  'T^""^'''  ^^^  '"ost  exten- 
villnge  of  C^L  bano?     '".  ^^''/»^^'^«^  tillage;  wes", 

northwest/ the  side  nrnfi/"       '^   '^^^""^'  ^"^  '^'^V^ 
nad  near  at  hand  ^""  '^"^'"^  ^•"'  ^«"  cultivated; 

WrHudTl:  ft"""  ''  '""^^ '  ^-^'  '''     To  Hart- 

estle'ldtrb^'ht'  &  T  ^•'""'^f ^'    -^^   --^' 

of  720  Fahrenhe".  a"&4r  Ly  rn^tt  ^^"^""r^ 
possess  any  mineral  virtues    as  Lv T       f     ^^"PP^-^ed  to 

examination  of  the  followfn:„r^     ?  '"^""''"•'^   ^'••""  «" 

and  quoted   by  ^3^7 ir'^'!  ^r'"  ^^  ^'•-  ^^^^^^^^ 

Lebanon  water  contain  "'    ^^'°  'i"^"*  ^^  »^« 


!  i: 


I    is 

r 


I 


to 


l.kllANON    !lint!4llH. 


CiU'ltnurtlr  ol'tl»>,   J 


>)   til'IIUIH. 


Of  At^rij'-ii'm   VluUi, 

Nili'ojirii  ww-y.        III  <M(lil(!  \\U 
Atiiiixplinlr  nil',  II     (III. 


Tim  Tiolmimii  wntor  U  ihoi'i'l'itn'  imior  ilum  miMf  nniu' 
\\\\  \vui,i|>»,  mill  piiiiM'  tidni  lliitin  In  llii>  vii'iiiiiv,  wlilill 
rtow  iVitiu  iho  mutii'  liill.  It  lonrinlili'*  vi'iy  inurli  iIkt 
ttuKiun  wtitor  in  Kh|i<liitiil,  ilii!\iuli  it  i*  mtf  i|nito  hi* 
>vurm;  mul  tho  H«i!<|ni  wuIim'  \*  iliutllii'r  I'Htiitmln  of  Inpiil 
wnn'i-  olmum  iMitlrrly    xviiltnnl    luimTiil    i|\iiilliii'*.      Vvw 

t\'4Ml)|'     Sillitlllll)      «'I)III|I||I'I<M      lIlO      MI'IMIIMV      ltl)lllll      lit<lMllll>ll 

t<|tnii>;!«  iiiil\tit  (»r  lliitl)  III  l'!n>jltiiiil. 

Tho  lioiMo  itt  «l»i'  S|tiiii,4{H  i-*  vnrv  ltn>',»\  niiiitii<Mtiiiiii« 
•uul  oli'^tiiit ;  hitii  liiiM  (HMMunitiit(lnii<il  '.MKI  incmmK  iii  unn 
tiino.  It  Mtiindrt  oluNt<  liy  llir«  M|>i-in^,  iiiiil  Ih  l'iiiiii)«lii*il 
Willi  hnthr*  »n|t|»liiMl  with  llio  \vii(i«r.  'riiiMiJil  Iniii-ic  hhmi- 
min'!*  !M)  Ici'l,  tutil  il.oiunv  niic  I'.M)  I'lM't  Ioik;.  'I'Iu'V  hIimhI 
In  iIh»  loi'in  ortiii  l„  with  a  Hup  |iiii/rii  niiiM  iiliiiig  tlirm 
b»>tli,  nu'ttxin'inij  *JV()  trot. 

Krom  NiHv-|,(»ltiuinii  S|)rln};M  t«»  'r»'<»v,  flit«r«»  ia  ii  swy 
jfinul  rntui,  tliiiMij'h  ii  vtuu'/^iitoil  «>inuitrv.  I)i)4liiii('rg  iii 
lullows;  to  NiiMniiii,  HI  tnilon;  tluMicn  i(»  Troy,  11. 

Kroni  tlu<  Spriiifji  in  IIiiiImdii  in  'JR  iiiilrn,  iiml  ri  mIiiki^- 
ooiii'h  giM'!*  tliitlior.  Tlio  ri»llit\vlii|^  in  ii  tiildo  nC  iliNtiiiicui 
on  tlio  roiiil  In  Miwtnii  t 

rittsliwlil  7  niiliw,  JlilHilulo  !>,  IVril  I,  VVmlliiiiKtnii  fi, 
CluHtrtli«>lil  (I,  NoillmnintoM  IH,  llinllry  W,  Amlii'int 
4,  Mi'li'luMMinvn  7,  Wni'n  (1,  \V«'«H'rii  W,  HiitoKlii'ld  (I, 
SpiMUHT  7,  LiMiM'sior  11,  WoiroHliT  (I,  Kmiiiiiif^lmiu  10, 
B«»Mi>u  t>l-i;H. 

Tli«>  SiiAKKH  ViM.AdK,  11  I'lnv  niili'M  iVoiii  tlio  H|triiij(!<, 
is  nn  iin  (ibjiH't.  of  lUloiitloii  to  tnosi  visiti'id.  Tlin  villiij;n 
ilsolt"  |>ri>siMU,«»  a  dOfiio  of  griMit  iit'iitiicHs  iiiid  iM-niiiy,  m 
it  i«  !»ituiitoil  on  II  biMlutirul  lovol,  iiiul  liiid  out,  wllli  tho 
Utmost  lojiuliirify  Tho  fiolds  iiro  dlvidi'd  by  riglit  linnn, 
finicod  with  tlio  nioHt  sul)!«taniiiil  niiili'iiiilM,  mid  (MiltivntPil 
with  pn'iil  (luthl'ulnoss  mid  skill.  It  in  ii  Iciirliiijf  luimnpUi 
with  tho  society,  to  allow  of  no  piiviuo  property;  all  thd 
possessions  t»f  thoso  who  join  them  iiro  thrown  into  tho 
common  stock,  and  submillod  at  once  to  their  poculiar 


Ml!  Uu 
l.t. 


mt  iifllif 
\\  wlilrll 
lurli  llitT 
t|nito   Ni« 

Oi'   tl*|lill 

>«.      I'ri»- 

tit<l»UIIOII 

itiiuttiiiitN 
iM  ii(  iMin 
'(itiii)«li)*() 

ll«0  IIIIMI- 
|I\V    Nlltlitt 

lllg  llll'lll 
U  II  viM'y 

IliKM'M    ll« 

iliNtiiiicurt 

iiifCtciti  ^f 
AtiilirrMt 

Kiirid  <;, 

Spriii^ifrt, 
to  villngn 
fdiily,  iiri 
with  thn 
i2;lit.  liiinit, 
'iilnviitftl 
priiKrlpId 
^;  all  till) 

iiilo  tlio 
'  peculiar 


«'»»»    "I'    At.lMNf.  y^ 

Ill"  (•Mllidt'i   nl'tlHili'  Ntirl   tviiM   A....  I  i 

- 'y ■ :,;  :.":',',';:':"■''  '•,;■"■ 

::"r:i:;;;;;;i';;:r:;:rfr''-"'H'::;l;i:';;i;;;; 

-i«N   ,„i„,i  ,„li;  .       H"i'M"..l  ll„.|,  ,v„„l,i,,  ,.„„, 

" ": :,"Z!, ■ '■••  '"'■■'""I '-'' »!"' 

»   l"i"'ll  ..(•  III.    I„„„l    1  ,  ,'""«"."•      '""I  ■It"''-,    iviil, 

ALMANV, 

".^^t.:!;;;;xj:r;,j';,r;f''7 \w.. .^ 

two  or  lhr.M,  h iuwIho,,,,   h  '        '"  /'""  '""f  ■      ''  '""• 


■■*i 


f 


SJniaESB'J.PLflTM 


>8 


ROUTKS    FUOM    ALHANT. 


il'* 


stropt.     It  19  a  place  of  deposit  for  vast  quantitiqs   of 
iuinber. 

NORTH  ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY. 

From  Albany  to  BuUston  and  Snrntosra  Springs,  the 
traveller  may  take  the  rnilroad  rouK;  tlirouuh  Sch(Miecta- 
dy,  or  ride  to  Troy,  and  take  the  railroad  thence  through 
Lansingburgh  and  VVaterford,  which  joins  the  latter  at 
Ballston.  For  Lake  Champlain,  take  a  canal  packet  at 
1  roy. 

For  the  west,  a  series  of  railroads  to  Buffalo  is  partly 
finished  as  far  as  Canandaigua,  250^  miles.  These  are 
under  different  conipuiiies.  At  the  other  extremity  of 
the  line  the  Buffalo  and  Rochester  railroad  is  in  use  to  Ba- 

tavia,  32  miles. 

Description  of  a  Canal  Packet  Boat.  The  length  is 
60  or  70  feet,  a  large  part  of  which  is  devoted  to  the  din- 
ing room,  where  two  rows  of  tables  are  set.  At  night, 
mattresses  are  spread  on  the  seats  each  side,  and  another 
row  above  them  on  cots  8U-»pended  from  the  roof.  The 
ladies  are  accommodated  with  berths  in  the  cabin,  which 
is  usually  carpeted,  hung  with  curraiiis,  and  in  other  re- 
spects more  handsomely  furnished. 

A  small  library,  a  number  of  newspapers,  &c.  will 
serve  to  make  the  time  pass  agreeably,  even  if  the  travel- 
ler be  a  stranger,  or  the  weather  not  inviting.  In  many 
places,  the  view  from  the  deck  is  highly  interesting  ;  but 
it  caniwt  be  too  often  recommended  to  the  stranger  to  be- 
ware of  standing  on  deck  when  approaching  a  bridge,  and 
never  to  expose  the  head  or  hands  out  of  a  window. 

Rensselaerwyck,  a  fine  estate  with  its  respectable  old 
mansion  bourse,  about  a  mile  north  of  the  centre  of  Albany 
irt  worthy  of  particular  observation,  as  the  seat  of  the  lato 
Hon.  Stephen  Van  Rensselaer ;  who  bore  the  respected  old 
Dutch  title  of  Patroon  of  Albany.  The  estate  is  of  im- 
mense value,  extending  ten  miles  along  the  river,  and 
double  that  distance  east  and  west ;  embracing  besides, 
a  fine  tract  on  the  Black  river,  &c.  It  was  formerly  en- 
lailed.  and  secured  by  law  to  the  oldest  son  of  the  family. 
U.  Statks  Arsenal,  5 i  miles,  at  Watervleit. 

The  ground  occupied  by  the  arsenal  extends  from  the 


TROY. 


2» 


road  near  the  rivor,  back  to  tho  tow  path  of  tho  rnnni 
Iho  muskets  are  partly  packed  in  Imxeslamlnmlv   '        l 
upn,lu,  with  fixed  bayonets.  i„   comp./u  o  d^  LS  nl 
sent  an  appearance  truly  formidable.     Thousand's  ,Zi  VT 
are  hun.  over  head;  those  in  the  alterna  riiL^^  ^^Hin! 
a.ffere,.t  ways  ;  and  swords  with  metaliic  scabbard,   lr« 
disposed   honzontally  on  wire  hooks.      The  walls  hZ 
several  devices  formed     of    swords,    pistos.    &"    jn  " 
mously  arranged.  This  is  the  principil  depot  of  ar„,,"S 
equipments  m  the  northern  states.  "'^ 

'1  he  passn-ns  and  staircases  are  hun?  with  drnma  Xr 
On  the  ground  floor  are  a  few  pieces  of  a^   llorv      % 
rious  sizes  of  shot,  shells,  &c.  &c  ^'  """^  ^^' 

In  the  yard  are  two  ranjres  of  buildin«ra      TV,„*  l 

north  is  .levorod   to  work  shopsT,     hf  Vemt  nr""   '^" 
manufacturin.,  locks,  &c.     The'bulldi  ,!  on ThTso^th  S 
are  occupied  by  smiths  and  carpenters      UouLa   I        ■ 
a  handsome  flower  and  fruit  garden     thn  S       ^'^'^.  '' 
being  on  the  north  side  of  the'^rouncis  "'^'"  ^'^^'^^^ 

Jn  the  yard  are  a  number  of  cannon,  &c.  There  ar«  A 
medium  12  pounders,  one  24,  and  one  howitzer  alftalfpn 
tokerJT'l'"^'""  ''  ''°""'^-  andre\owt? 

pounders  and  14  g.ns  sent  bvKn.T  •  ^  f''"""^^  * 
-ntal  Congress  i?  thl:  rolu  fon'^'^Th'^l'LraSuf?""- 
and  most  of  them  highly  ornamented  The  FreLhr' 
presented  by  the  king,  bear  each  an  indivVdual  nTn^C 
ward,  and  the  inscription  "  Uliima  ratio  reJum"l(Z 
last  argument  of  kings.)  ^'^  re  gum   —(the 

1  J.^ll''''^  '''r  ^  "^  ^  howitzers  cast  in  New  York  and  Phi 

Troy.     On  the  opposite  side  of  the  rivPr    i.  „ 

handsome  town,  with  Le  hills  in  the  rLrh^  ''"^ 

minent  of  which  bus  received  the  n™  ^r  ^?     ^°f,  P'"' 

correspond  with  the  classic  app'eUat^r  of'  hrila'^'  '^ 
There  18  a  good  horse  ferrv  w>,LV  u  i  ,      f^''^'^'^- — 

a  great  th^rou^e  Sn^    h^  t^  ^' ,r  '■'"'^^'' '^«  ^«-" 
Dam,  Basin  and  VKducts  «^  T    '"'^""'"ff  «««son.    The 

Th^railroad  to  Si  me;t7th;%T""'%"°^'^^^^ 
Saratoga  raihoad.  ^  ^^^  Schenectady  and 


I' 'J 


I 


:!'i! 


SI 


a  i 


30 


TROT. 


Sandy  Lake  is  10  miles  southwest,  Nassau  8  more,  vil' 
la^e  of  New-Lebanon  12  miles  further,  and  Lebanon 
Sprinjjs  2  more. 

On  Mount  Ida,  the  hill  east  of  Troy,  is  a  fine  succes- 
sion of  water  falls,  on  two  streams,  the  Poestenkill  and 
the  Wynantskill.  One  of  them  has  cut  its  way  in  some 
places  to  a  great  depth,  and  takes  three  or  four  perpen- 
dicular leaps  at  short  intervals  of  only  a  few  yards.  The 
road  to  New-Lebanon  Springs  leads  near  the  place,  which 
is  worthy  of  attention  for  its  picturesque  character. 

Mount  Ida.  The  view  from  the  top  of  this  hill,  and-' 
still  more  from  the  mountain  behind  it,  is  very  extensivo 
and  beautiful. 

The  Academy  for  young  ladies  Is  a  very  respectable 
institution — long  directed  by  Mrs.  Emma  Willard. 

Troy.  Very  fine  packet  boats  ply  on  the  canal  from  Troy 
to  Whitehall,  setting  out  early  in  the  morning,  and  arriv- 
ing before  night.  This  mode  of  travelling  is  recommend- 
ed on  account  of  convenience,  and  the  good  opportunity  it 
affords  of  viewing  the  battle-ground  of  Saratoga  or 
Behmis's  Heights,  the  field  of  surrender,  &c. 

Hydrostatic  Lock.  In  order  to  prevent  fraud  in  the 
collection  of  loll,  one  of  these  works  has  been  constructed 
at  Troy.     They  are  commonly  called  weigk-locks. 

The  chamber  is  on  the  same  level  with  the  canal,  and 
is  filled  from  it  by  a  paddle  gate.  On  a  level  below  the 
chamber  is  a  receptacle,  into-  which  the  chamber  can  be 
c:m})tied  ;  and  from  this  the  water  can  be  discharged* 

After  an  empty  boat  has  been  once  weighed,  she  is 
numbered,  and  her  weight  is  registered  at  the  several 
hydrostatic  locks. 

The  opportunity  for  looking  around  on  every  side  is 
much  better  enjoyed  in  a  canal  boat  than  in  a  stage- 
coach, or  even  a  private  carriage,  although  it  sometimes 
happens,  that  the  road  commands  more  extensive  views 
than  the  canal.  The  immediate  scene  from  the  latter, 
however,  will  usually  be  found  the  most  agreeable ;  for 
a  smooth  sheet  of  water,  with  level  and  often  grassy 
banks,  is  a  more  pleasant  sight  than  a  long  stretch  of  a' 
muddy  or  sandy  highway.  Besides,  it  is  always  free 
from  the  inconvenience  of  dust,  which  frequently  renders 
the  roads  in  this  part  of  the  country  extremely  uncomfortable. 

The  Double  Locks  just  below  the  junction  of. the  noffh-- 


r 


ff.','lfr~ 


|! 


\l 


I 


REMARKS   ON   THE   CANAL.  3^ 

Nontrf a^d^^^estntn  ^''T'  '^  ^^-^    ^^- 

spot  the  canal  harbee"  of  a  InT  ""?u"?"-  '^«  ^^is 
the  branches  will  be  found  to'^rVh^^'^^^'^l"  '"'^'^  «^ 
runs  to  Whitehall    lX Vi^        .  •  ^""-'hem  Canal 

Watorford,)   wuh    the    bi  '       "T^''^' (^4  miles  from 
ffoyne,  Fon  Hardv    Jh  ''^"^-^'•o""^«    "f  General    Bur- 

FoitEdwrd"a^;.?^Fo«'r:ne^  ""^"''^^^''  ^''^^^  ^"'-' 

LaI^,^;e::disTar:"of^3%^'  ^?^"^^  ^«  «"^^^«'  o- 
which   raisL  arTd  low-  tf  ""'i"'-     ^'  ^««  ^.-J  locks, 

principal  poin'r  where  thn'  "'"^7,^88   feet  in  all.     The 
requiri^d.  are  the  following  ""'  ''^''^"^  ^"'^  ^^P^"-  --re 

th/t^^t^^'teeT^':,^^^^^^^^^  Basin  at  W- 
which  the  canal  fwinl  '^'Js,---the  two  /.queducts  on 
Stone  Wall  ardClTarLim  ^J,^,^^«h-k.Lthe  long 
beautiful  Aqueduct  for  the  tn;"''  'T'^''  ""^  '^^ 
long  «tretch\hrough  the  Onondata  S  '^"'  Pl«ce,~the 
Embankment  at  VictnrxvV.        ?^    Swamp,— the  great 

pass  72  feet  ahte^riev  dlThe  L'"°.  ""'"''  '^'  '^^'^ 
nesee  at   Rochester Uhl  fi      ^  Aqueduct  over  the  Ge- 

or,  and  tLo  faLZ™  .hr7„ad":hlT  °'  "'V"''"'  *^  "- 
bank  oftheriv.;,  140  feetZh  h  ?  "'•""""^  "•'  »''°"' 
CoHoEs  Fails  Twti.!'  '^'""'°;;''  "  ""d'  the  canal, 
hawk  R,ver.  Tl,;  hdl  „f  r°J  S"-'™"  "''""'  Mo- 
banks  are  mere  wLlls  of  s.mrifi  a"  f  "  "^  f^"-  '"«= 
timeshollowedoutbenta^h  ri.  T  '  T^^'  """l 'ome- 
nver  for  a  grea.  dtS*!,  I^helll'"  fr/f  °™."'« 
the  cataract  aonear^  nlrr,^  T  ,        "*•     ^t  first  view 

rrT;«'H'¥°-^^^^^^^^^^^ 

4 


I    « . 


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i 


■     i; 

r 


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SCIIEMSCTADY. 


I  ill 

fil  I 


m  ' 


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ii  ' 


it' 


ScHKNECTAPT  is  one  of  the  oldoat  gettlempnta  in  tile 
state,  Imviiii^  boon  occupiod  as  a  little  frontier  fortress 
by^fore  the  year  1G65,  when  it  was  attacked  by  a  party  of 
French  and  Indians  from  Canada,  and  burnt,  and  many 
oftho  inhabitants  murdered.  This  party  was  designed 
against  the  Five  Nations;  but  being  much  worn  down  with 
travelling  in  the  winter,  they  fell  on  Schenectady. 

Union  College  is  conspicuously  situated  a  little  out  of 
town.  Dr  Nott  is  president  of  this  highly  respectable 
institution. 

The  traveller  now  enters  a  region  of  peculiar  interest  in 
the  history  of  the  state,  and  indeed  of  the  country.  The 
first  settlement  of  Albany  by  the  Dutch,  (in  1610,)  was 
made  with  the  intention  of  trading  with  the  Iroquois,  or 
Five  Nations  of  Indians,  who  occupied  the  territory  west 
of  it.  These  were  stationed  in  the  following  order  :  the  • 
Mohawks,  Oneidas,  Cayugas,  Onondagas  and  Senecas  or 
Onondowachwas  as  they  called  themselves.  The  French 
in  Canada  often  endeavoured  to  detach  these  tribes  from 
the  Dutch,  and  subsequently  from  the  English,  but  with- 
out success. 

They  carried  on  a  trade  with  the  Dutch  and  the  En- 
glish, very  valuable  to  the  latter.  In  the  French  wars  in 
the  first  half  of  the  last  century,  and  still  later,  they  aided 
the  English  with  scouts  and  soldiers,  and  often  suffered 
severely  for  their  faithfulness.  In  the  Revolution,  the 
Americans  wished  to  persuade  them  tO' remain  neutral: 
but  some  of  them  were  drawn  off  to  the  British  interest 
by  Sir  John  Johnson,  who  resided  at  Johnstown  ;  and  thus 
the  region  between  Schenectady  and  the  most  distant  part 
of  the  state  at  that  time  settled  by  white  men  was,  for 
several  years,  ravaged  by  war.  Bodies  of  Indians,  led  by 
British  officers,  frequently  came  from  Canada  by  forced 
marches,  and  falling  by  surprise  upon  the  settlements, 
burned  the  buildings,  carried  off  or  destroyed  the  pro- 
perty, and  killed  or  captured  the  inhabitants.  A  line  of 
scattered  villages  then  lying  on  and  near  the  route  of  the 
present  railroads,  road's  and  canals,  several  times  suffered 
in  this  manner;  and  the  enemy  often  crossed  that  line, 
and  penetrated  more  than  once  as  far  as  the  Valley  of 
Wyoming  in  Pennsylvania. 
Among  the  most  melancholy  events  caused  by  war  iro 


m 


1 


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4 


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ROUTB  TO  NUOAllA.  33 

thoy  <iiHr(-ar.Jed  aII  C„  '   "^  '^*"''''  ""  ««curo  that 

Albany  in  Croat  di^trL:.7.T'-  u       ^  <»nhem   Hed  to 
the  railroad  cr„.?es  '*"'  inhospitable  plain  which 

railroad  meo  ho  Ca:k  it  ^'^'^.^Wl  and  the 
may  be  pleased  vkh  t  ,n  r  1  T  ^^'^  ^*^«  '^i-^uro 
this  plane  a'it  u,  „  '''""^'°"'.«^^^^«e"  Albany  and 
pause's  th^'  C^h  e^T^^ll  770  fe^f  hl^^^';  ^ -l-ducts^  and 
Pf  nine  double  locks  bobw  it  ^^^'^  '"^  '^  ^"^  ^^'P^^^y 

FROM   SCHENECTADY   TO    UTICA. 

Kotterdam  Flats  -  o     -i 

Flint  Hill  .        .        ".        ^  miles. 

Fort  Hunter        -         .         "10 

the^'pl^'ttrti:;;"- tiT  f  ?r'  "?^^  ^-^-^^ » 

mostWtheplHcrsolSb^i^^^^^^^^     '^"'^-     ^'"^^ 
revolution  and  the  VvZ^U  ^^"  '^'^^^  ^"""ff  the 

only  for  resttln.  LcrmtlTn^A  '' T'  ^"'^'''  ^"^  ^^^^^ 
app..ach  .ho  settl^,^^^^^^^  as  used  to 

InIn^^^tJ'rh^:^^,srt:t"  •^^  '^^^^.^^^^  ^^«^-^ 

Queen  Anno    near  fhl  h  -        ^^^"^  ^  ^^^^P^^  built  by 

the  use  of  tC  na ton  TTs"1cno  ''\^"V""^"''^' ^- 
Queen  Anno's  Chapel  °'"'  ^^    '^°    "^™«  of 

neilSl^xiipl'fHilltistfi^''""^"''"  ^^  ^^«  «— 
«tage-road.     On^  it,  si^m  'T'"""?"  '^''^^^^d  ^^  the 

fort  and  village  o    the   Mo  awTs      Tr*"'^'  -^  ^""''P^^ 
most  eastern  of '<  the  Fi;oNa^on:''  ''"•''«' b«i"ff  the 

the  Indians  of  NewynXnd       E'    T^'  "'^'*'  '^"""'n  by 
were.     Ai  tho  Hmr    u  ^Tr  '  "'''°"'  fitter  enemies  thej 

they  got    d    he  cotrrf  r;'"""^  "^^  first  set^ 
R^^'er!    The  fort  on  Z  hill         '   ^^''   "'    Connecticut 

h  the  French      Th^t,-'  7'  °"'"  '^^^"  ^^  «"^'Pris^ 
inv  railiuaa  lies  at  its  base.  "        ' 


% 


|i  ■•■: 


II 1 


^4 


SCHOHARIE  CKEXK. 


Schoharie  Creek.     1  mile.     Here  is  a  collection  of 
•several  very  interesting  works,  formed  for  the  convenient 
passage  of  boats  across  a  broad  and  rapid  stream.     A 
guard  lock  preserves  the  water  in  the  canal  from  rising  or 
falling,  and  the  current  of  the  creek  is  set  back  by  a  dam 
a  little  below,  nearly  to  the  same  level.     The  dam  is  con- 
structed in  a  manner  best  calculated  to  resist  the  pressure 
of  the  current  in  floods,  and  when  increased   by  the  ice. 
It  has  a  broad  foundation  and  a  narrow  top;  and  it  is 
built  so  as  to  present  an  angle  against  the  middle  of  the 
•current.     An  ingenious  invention  has   been  devised    for 
drawing  boats  across  the  creek  by  machinery.     A  wheel 
turned  by  a  horse  moves  a  rope,  which  is  stretched  double 
across,  and  is  carried  round  a  wheel  on  the  other  side; 
a  line  attached  to  this  draws  the  boats,  they  being  kept  in 
their  course  by  another  line,  which  slides  upon  a  long  rope 
stretched  across  the  creek  on  the  other  side  of  the  boats. 
Caughnawaga,  4i  miles.     The  village  of  Johnstown 
,  is  situated  at  the  distance  of  four  miles    north    of  the 
canal."     The  railroad  passes  it. 

*  At  Johnstown,  on  the  road,  are  two  fine  houses,  built  of  stone, 
standiniar  at  the  distance  ofa  mile  from  each  oiheN  They  were 
erected  by  Sir  William  Johnson  and  his  family,  as  this  tract 
of  country  was  the  place  of  his  residence,  and  formed  a  part 
of  his  vast  and  valuable  estate.  There  was  originally  a  third 
house,  similarly  built,  and  at  the  interval  of  another  mile:  but  that 
was  consumed  by  fire.  Col.  Goy  Johnson,  and  Col,  John  Johnson, 
(sons  of  Sir  William,)  inhabited  two  of  them  until  the  revolution- 
ary war  ;  when,  having  attached  themselves  to  the  British  inte- 
rest, they  removed  into  Canada,  and  their  estates  were  confiscated. 
Culon?l  John  afterwards  came  down  with  a  party  of  French  and 
Indians,  attacked  the  town,  and  mude  prisoners  many  of  his  old 
friendH  and  neighbours. 

Sir  William  Johnson,  who  makes  so  conspicuous  a  figure  in  the 
history  of  the  state  about  the  time  of  the  French  war,  was  born  in 
Ireland,  in  1714,  and  in  1734  came  to  America,  at  the  solicitatioa 
of  hiH  uncle,  Sir  Peter  Warren,  who  had  acquired  a  large  estate 
here  through  his  wife.  Sir  William  became  well  acquainted  with 
the  Indian  language  and  manners,  and  acquired  a  greater  influ- 
ence  over  them  than  any  other  white  mpn  ever  possessed  He 
rose  from  the  station  of  a  private  soldier  to  the  rank  ofa  General 
and  commanded  at  Lake  George  in  1755,  although,  as  will  hereaf. 
ter  be  seen,  the  title  which  he  there  received  was  re  dly  merited 
by  Gen.  Lyman.  July  25,  1759,  he  took  Fort  Niagara,  and  in 
1769  went  to  join  Gen.  Amherst  at  Oswego,  and  assisted  in  the 
•capture  of  Montreal.    Ho  died  aad  wa»  buried  at  bis  seat  July  7, 


\'M 


JM 


II 


S*J 


ft- 


I': 


t  .J 


11 


ili  ! 


ii 


H 


'J. 


ftOUTE   TO  NlAOAnA.  33 

Awtwovy's  Nosr,  73  miles      TKJ.  io  ,  u-  u 

srnwai :  org';eLVe;Th"'s  "^""i  ^^'"^  ^'^ '-'' 

Plates-   hnt  fh!     •    ■^^'°*"V'^'''P'"^«entedinoneof  the 
Plates,   but  the  view   is  taken  from  a  spot  west  of  it 

the  north  side.lhe  canal  and  «  rl?  .  .     ^"'^"P''<*'  o" 

Fo"r  P"r'4'^"r''  IT"  ^'■•■■«««.  5  mile.. 

vailey  ,  and  here  he  cominitled  similar  atrocilie..  ^ 

Dam  on  the  River,  and  Feeder  for  the  Canal,  4  miles. 

back  .0  Oueida'Lake  and  the  Osle  "  He"',,";  •"'  ""^ 
the  nver  s..me»hor..  boln«.  7„  I  Tf  ,■  ■  ^^'^  crossed 
tl.e  rear  of  h,s  troops  tr'overtakel'  ''"«";"«  "  '''"'^  '» 
the  creek,  by  ,„o  On^rdrinTa":,''  ,  Sd    ^"Jlti;'.:' 

firTrr:  h,^t"e?  "r  p^^-s'-™"  ht  ^r  eg  a 

toiliked'h- ;^:/.h°e"s;^ti"''''  "  ^*'-y  nueyr't^t 

1774,  at  tlio  apn  of  60  va^-u  •.<«!.   i 

value  ofhis  ext.M:siv;eTafe"fter  t.fp'^?"'^"?'''  of  the  increased 
ngwa,  erected  in  1 773.  and  stHadsti^.!^^^^  '^'•'»  '""''1- 

"'4* 


I 

I 

i  Hi 

I  n] 


96 


lITTtR  PALLS. 


ii! 


I      I 


Mohawk  Castle,  2  miles.     This  was  the  princibal 
defensive  position  of  that  famous  nation  of  Indians,  now 

for  [heVusr       ^""^  '°''^*     ^^'^  '"  ""  "'"^  '^^'^^^  ®'^*^^®^ 
Little  Falls.     The  country  presents  a  varied  sur- 
tace,  and  increases  in  interest  on  approaching  Little  Falls, 
which  18  the  most  romantic  scene  on  the  course  of  the 
J't     u"n      9"  reaching  a  little  open  meadow  surround- 
ed by  hills,  where  the  views  open  upon  cultivated  fields 
«nd  a  few  farm  houses,  the  Mohawk  will  be  found  flowintf 
below  on  the  right;  while  on  the  opposite  side,  at  the 
loot  of  the  hills  and  on  the  verge  of  the  forest  that  covers 
them,  the  great  road  is  seen,  after  having  been  lost  to  the 
View  for  a  long  time.    The  road,  river,  canal,  and  railroad 
meet  again  at  the  head  of  the  valley  ;  for  there  is  butone 
passage,  and  that  so  narrow  as  hardly  to  aiTord  room  fo^ 
inem  all.     I  his  is  a  deep  cut  through  a  chain  of  lime- 
stone and  granite   hills,  doubtless   torn  away  in    some 
former  age  by   the   force  of  water.     If  the  chain  were 
again  filled  up  it  would  throw  the  water  back,  and  form 
an  immense  lake,  such  as  is  supposed  to  have  once  ex- 
isted west  of  this  place,  and  which,  by  overflowing  its 
Oounds,  m  proces«»  of  time  wore  away  the  limesrone  stra* 
ta,  and  cut  deep  into  the  hard  granite,  until  a  mere  river 
succeeded,  and  the  fine  alluvial  plains  above,  called  the 
German  Flats,  were  left  dry. 

The  stranger  should,  by  no  means,  neglect  the  view  o( 
this  place,     if  he  reaches  it  early  or  late  in  a  pleasant 
tlay,  particularly  near  the  rising  of  the  sun,  the  beauty  of 
the  scene  will  be  redoubled.     On  the  north  bank  of  the 
river,  the  road  climbs  along  the  side  of  the  rocks,  where 
there  is  barfly  room  for  its  passage.     A  great  part  of  th^ 
way  It  13  almost  overhung  by  rocks  and  trees  on  one  side, 
Nvhile  on  the  other  is  a  precipice  of  granite,  cut  down  by 
the  force  of  the  water  in  perpendicular  shafts,  originally 
ormed  by  drills,  made  by  loose  stones  whirled  round  in 
the  current.  The  same  appearance  e.xlendsto  the  islands 
and  rocks  m  the  channels,  many  of  which  appear  quite 
Inaccessible,  with  their   ragged  and  perpendicular  sides 
overhung  by  dark  evergreens,  whose  shade  seems  the  more 
intense  from  its  contrast  with  the  white  rapida  and  cas- 


^4JL 


11 


ROUTE  TO  NUOARA.  M 

which  have  been  loo'ened^^rn  .iT"*  "J  T"'  "^^^ 
.elve,  „„  .he  brow  7^  Xt    '  """  '''""^  "■""" 

Client  surface  of  the  canal  «r  .h«  / .         ^^^  P'^^"^  »"<* 

With  Which  .he  ^^7^zxs:^;!:^trzz 

n.ile.bove.  Ifto w'shca.o.lTfr'"'?  """°  '"'"^  « 
scene  more  at  leisure  , he  vS.  r,^°r"J°  "'«"  "•« 
half  a  mile  from  hat  p Lt  whire  ./.V""  ^'H'  ''  ""'j- 
•hie  inn,  with  cars,  Z2  Znd  rj  l"^" '""'"""'°'^ 
frequrntly.  If  he  intend"  „  stay  bC?  a  "erh?^  '"^ 
recommended  to  him  to  hav»  hi.  t.  "",»'>"".  «  is 
tavern  on  tho  canal  „hererc.nh./^?f  '^"  "  "  ''"l« 
another  vehicle  ''°  "^''"J'  '"neferred  to 

and'"?a^lxrd^^rt"'ad''^^ '''%'''°''<' » 

work  on  the  linp  nffZ       '^"'^f  «^  specimen  of  mason 
.i.e  tothafo^i^hfotrer  ;'a.Tr"\;tt  '" 

largo  ha»^r„  th  L;r  h  banT'"Tn""  "l°  """  » 
channel  of  the  ri.er  wih  three  beantST  ^  ""!'"' 
are  covered  with  a  calc.rL,?.  „,  '"*""'"'  arches,  which 

stalactites,  farmed  by  e°  war  tHat".'?';'"''',,''^  ''"'« 
through  the  stones.  Stones,  tv^l  of  tree"  ro"^  ft 
the  waterfalls,  are  soon  fonnd  trusted  ^^^  '",''' 
substance.  The  channel  here  shows  part  of  h.  %  f  i""  " 
s;one  strata,  with  the  more  durable  IrSe'^t  t'L^ 

.bo^SLT^^?;*:rfeiirrT?t';e'''^^^°'°'^''' 

Veller  will  be  mte  pleased  withJpe^lL*%r?hrb'^aS: 


.  if 


I . 


JH 

iff 


I  Ll 


:l 


fli 


il    !^ 


ii^ 


>> 


ik. 


38 


UTICA. 


ful  little  rock-crystals,  (quartz,)  which  are  found  dn  cfi© 
hills  about  a  mile  distant  from  the  village.  They  are  per- 
fect in  their  form,  terminating  with  two  pyramids;  and 
are  so  loosely  imbedded  in  a  sandy  rock,  as  to  be  washed 
out  by  the  rains  in  considerable  numbers. 

There  are  mills  of  various  kinds  at  this  place. 

On  leaving  Little  Falls,  the  canal  enterb  upon  a  beau- 
tiful meadow  of  fine  soil,  and  a  smooth  surface}  through 
which  the  Mohawk  winds  in  a  placid  and  gentle  current, 
enclosed  on  each  side  by  sloping  hills.  At  the  distance 
of  three  miles  we  are  in  the  level  region  called  the  Ger" 
man  Flats,  famous  for  its  fertility.  The  inhabitants,  wha 
are  almost  all  of  German  extraclion,  still  preserve  their 
language,  and.  many  of  the  customs  of  their  ancestors; 
and  though  often  laborious  and  provident  farmers,  are 
hitle  inclined  to  those  improvements  in  learning  or  the 
useful  arts,  which  distinguish  so  large  a  portion  of  the 
state.  The  scenes  presented  along  this  part  of  the  canal, 
bear  a  resemblance  to  some  of  the  meadows  of  the  Con- 
necticut, although  of  inferior  size,  and  of  more  lecent 
settlement. 

Hkrkimbb,  This  village  is  situated  about  7^  mile* 
beyond,  and  a  mile  north  of  the  canal,  on  a  semicircular 
plain  ;  the  circumlerence  of  which  is  traced  by  the  Mo- 
hawk, and  the  diameter  by  the  railroad.  It  derives  its 
name  from  Gen.  Herkimci,  of  whom  tiiere  will  be  more  to 
say  at  Home. 

The  traveller  may  take  a  carriage  here,  to  visit  Trenton 
Falls,  and  jom  the  canal  at  Utioa ;  or  go  first  from  Utica* 

The  LoNo  Level  begins  at  Lock  No  63,  nearly  six 
miles  west  of  Herkimer  It  is  the  longest  reach  on  the 
canal  without  any  ii  terruption  by  locks,  extending  to  Sa- 
lina,  a  distance  of  69^  miles,  400  feel  above  tide. 

Utica.  This  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  important 
of  the  wenern  towns  Hotels,  Cagg's,  Canal  Coffee- 
House,  Franklin,  City  Hotel,  National.  Public  buildwgs, 
&c.  3  Banks,  16  Churches,  Femal*  Institute,  High 
School,  Academy,  Reading  Room,  and  Lilrary  of  the 
Y.  M  en's  Association,  (open  to  strangers;)  Lyceum,  &c. 

The  streets  are  broad,  straight  and  commodious;  and 
the  principal  ones  well  built,  with  rows  of  brick  stores. 


•ROUTE   TO  NIAGARA.  ^^ 

Cl"";'-9Ti,e?fr &.it  '"'"^''  "^"  '"»  '"'»S'  "f 

e  ream  to  pass;  „hile  the  rocks  rise  perpe^dferril  ™ 

places  appear  dangerons,  but  only  rcS7lh,t       .    ' 
and  presence  of  4,d  .0  insure  Kafey^of'tt  "si? 

secnnty.     There  are  four  principal  cataracts.  bct«rw 

greatest  fall  to»ards^he  west  The  ,0'  „%'"'"?  ""^ 
.he  r,ght  side  is  150  feet  high  by  1  neVcTs"  eme„"  tE2 
?.».i;   ."  ;  «?»l"  ft",  much  like  a  mNda^n  Lml 

presents  .r.a„y  „„,t  agreeable  vaSes        "'"'"'''  """ 

from  a  low  bank;  unseen,  althoLrher  frildt'^l     ''^'"^ 

About  a  ™,e  and  a  quarter  from  d.e  hit «  a  s^J! 


I  . . 


ill 


40 


FOJLT   8TANW1J. 


J 


buildmg  erected  for  the  supply  of  refreshments.     A  f^nnu. 

Z  '^l"r  .""'^  ''  u""?'^^  ^"  '^'^  neighbourhood,  called 
the  white  cedar  wub  drooping  branches,  which  often 
grow  to  such  a  length  a.  to  descend  far  below  the  root 
towards  the  water.  The  rocks  here  are  all  a  dark  lime- 
stone, of  a  very  slaty  sirqcture,  and  contain  astonishing 
quantities  of  petrified  marine  shells  and  other  animals  of 
an  antediluvian  date,  such  as  Dilobites,  Trilobites,  &c. 

rhere  are  several  other  cata.acts  besides  those  already 
mentioned,  both  above  and  below  ;  and  a  stranger  mi-^hf 
spend  some  time  here  very  agreeably  in  observing  thtm 

creek  abounds^     The  house  is  commodious,  and  has  the 
ofThe'stTte      ''       '"^  °""  °^'^"  ^'''  '^^^''  ^"  »^^»  P^^' 
From  Utica  to  Syracuse,  by  the  canal,  633  miles 

Onefda  r ''"l^M^^T^'  ""^  '^^  °'^   ^'  ^'  Arsenal   1 
Oneida  Greek,   14,  Lock  54.  end  of  the  long  levo]  29,  Sy- 
racuse |.     These  places  are  noted  in  succession.  '    ^ 
Whuestown  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  villages  in  this 

fZ\    J.\"'^'^'  ^'  ^""  ^'   'he  oldest  settlement.     All 
this  tract  of  country  was  a  perfect  wilderness  in   1785 

toukV^H  \^"!r'  1""  ^i^dl^'o-".  in  Connecticut,  firsi 

Sie  t?«v.ll      ''^^  ^r  ^"?  ^'^'^^  ^"  ^""^  ^^in«'  ^he  forest. 
-Ihe  traveller  may  keep  this  in  mind  as  he  pursues  hi, 

isSin;'  ^'^  ''''''''  of  civilization  will  appear  mo^' 
towr'.To^'l''  ^«.^\Sta»wix      On  the  road  from  Whites, 

mider  a  l?!f/'  '^"  '''"'  "S'"""  ^""^  "^''kimer  sat  dow,> 
under  a  tree  after  receiving  his  mortal  wound.     In   1777 

them  !„y^"^  'T  K'"^^^""  ^^^^  "^"d  180» »"«"'  "^ny  of 
them  savages,  under  Baron  St.  Leger,  from  Moatreal!  by 

STe  M  r'^''*^?^?"^  ^^^^  ^'^"^"''  '^"d  then  togo down 
Ue  Mohawk  to  Albany.  Early  in  August  they  arrived  at 
Fort  StanwiK.  Gep.  Herkimer,  commander  ot  the  militia 
ojlryon  county  was  sent  against  them  with  800  men. 
Wis  men  insisted  on  going  on,  to  meet  a  detachment  under 

thev  flpH  r/  '^"'  °"'  ^^  ^''  ^^S^'  '  ^"'«'  "^he  first  shot 
^2fU  ^!^/«"iained  and  fought,  and  Gen.  H.  wa» 

monally  wounded.  Congress  voted  a  monument  to  Z 
mtmory,  but  u  has  never  been  erected.    The  AmericmiJ 


I. 


ROUTE    TO    NIAGARA. 


4t 


lost  160  killed,  and  240  wounded  and  prisoner      TT 
Fort  Stanwix  stood  60  or  80  rods  N    P  nP»k»  * 

was  intercepted  on  his  rptiirn    \"'^'\^^^}^^^^'^P'     Ho 
and  returned' witho"ut  the     r'of"a  Zn^'ZU^""')' 
Johnson  returned  from  the  battle  VuhGen  'HerklLr* 
the  fortress  was  summoned,  but  refused  to  surrender^'d 
Col.  W.l let  and    Lieut.  Stockton  left  the  fort  to  inform 
he  people  towards  Albany,  of  its  situation.     They  cVer^? 
through  the  enemy's  camp,  and  m  to  Gpn    Z2   i    ^» 
head  quarters  at  Stillwater      Gen   Arnold  vlnt'i"''' 
relieve  it  r  and  fH.htened  the  besiege"' by  mltl^^^^ 

riesof  the  force  of  the  Americans,  that  they  left  the^r 
baggage  and  fled  precipitately  to  Oneida  Lake^  ' 

OniS    of  reserved  land  belonging  to  the  Indians  of  the 
Oneida  nation.     The  principal  residences  of  most  of  ho 

Lri  n"  '^''  ^'''  '^'^'  '^''""^'•y  -^'•^  formerlv  for"  fied 
in  a  manner  correspondmg  with  their  ideas  of  warfare 
and  hence  the  name  of  castle  attached  to  this  village    as 

Tp^ak^fuXfon"'^^^'  ^'^^'  -'  --y  ^-  — -  - 
The  Oneida*  were  one  of  the  original  Five  Natinnc 
whjch  form  so  conspicuons  a  figure  in'th.   history  of  ^h^ 
state,  and  whose  power  and  influence,  at  the  time  of  tV.« 
settlement  of  New-York  and  New-Kngiand,  were^xtended 
far  and  wide.     They  held  the  Datawares   n  subiect.on  i„ 
Penn.ylvanra  and  Delaware;  the  Cherokees  in  Sou  h  cL 
rohna  sought  thejr  friendship ;  and  all  the  country  befwee" 
rfie  Hudson  and  Connecticut  rivers  was  tributary  to  them 
They  mu«t  have  been  at  that  time  extremely  ^numerouT 
But  since  then  their  decrease  has  been  great  •  for  hn,, J^ 
the  losses  they  have  sustained  in  wars  InH    ho  ^      ^^* 
brought  upon  tLm  by  civili  Jv;^^;i;"1,/  h^eir';r: 
«en  have  left  their  native  country  to  joar^  join  theS^ 


j'iii  'I 


42 


SYRACUSK.      SALT   WORKS. 


who  still  pruscrvo  somo  portion  of  their  original  habit*  and' 
indi'peridonco. 

A  milo  cast  of  Oneida  Creek,  and  by  tho  road  side,  is 
the  ancient  Council  Gkove,  where  all  tho  public  busi- 
ness  of  tho  nation  was  for  many  years,  transacted. 
It  19  formed  of  fine  butternut  trees,  which,  in  tho  summer 
season,  from  a  littlo  distance,  present  a  beautiful  and  re- 
gular mass  of  verdure.  Towards  the  southeast  from  thi» 
place  18  seen  tho  Episcopal  church,  a  building  erected  for 
the  use  of  the  Indians. 

Syracuse.  This  place  is  no  less  remarkable  for  the 
rapidity  of  Its  growth,  than  for  the  peculiar  advantages  of 
vis  situation.  The  groat  Salt  Spring  is  only  a  mile  and  a 
nail  distant;  and  tho  water  is  raised  85  feet,  and  brought 
m  hollow  logs  to  the  salt  vats,  and  at  a  very  trifling  ex- 
pense. Those  vats  cover  400  acres  at  the  western  side  of 
tiie  village,  and  are  well  worthy  of  a  day's  delay,  as  well 
as  tho  works  at  Salina,  Liverpool,  and  Gcddesburgh.— 
iho  vats  are  large  pans  made  of  wood,  three  orfour  inches 
deep,  raised  a  little  from  tho  ground,  and  placed  in  long 
ranges,  with  a  very  gradual  descent,  to  permit  the  salt  wa- 
ter to  flow  slowly  along  from  one  end  to  the  other.  Each 
range  of  vats  is  supplied  by  a  hollow  log  placed  perpen- 
dicularly in  the  ground ;  and  the  constant  action  of  the  sun 
evaporates  the  water,  and  leaves  tho  salt  to  be  deposited  in 
small  c^ubjcal  crystals  at  the  bottom.  The  water  is  at  first  a 
mtle  thick,  but  gradually  deposits  its  impurities;  and  the 
lower  vats  always  show  a  beautiful  white  crust,  like  the 
purest  snow.     Within  7  miles  are  180  salt  works. 

Light  wooden  roofs  are  kept  ready  to  slide  over  the 
vats  when  the  weather  requires  it ;  and  the  salt  is  taken  out 
once  m  two  or  three  days,  to  be  deposited  in  the  store- 
liouses,.  which  are  built  at  regular  distances. 

Thence  it  is  easily  removed  to  the  canal,  and  then  is 
ready  for  transportation  to  any  part  of  the  country. 

The  OswECxO  Canal  leaves  the  Eriecanal  at  this  place, 
andopens  a  direct  communication  with  Lake  Ontario. 

'J  he  bank  is  used  as  a  tow  path  a  considerable  distance.. 
The  shores  rise  gradually  to  a  height  of  100  feet,  with  few 
inhabitants  and  littlo  cultivation.  The  locks  and  other 
works  are  of  the  best  description,  and  very  admirable 
"workmanship.. 


f. 

i 


KOUTl   TO  NIAGARA.  |j 

clear  idea  of  thfirocL      plh  h'TP'""  "'"  """"y  « 
<"  eighteen  large'^^ron  Leul„.  i^-'t''"*'  '°"'°"'  •i""'™ 

about  three  feet  higher  than  fh«  fl  j       .  "^^    *^*^"'^ 

a  large  furnaoe,  wSi'.taS  t°^U"e':^  7  'l!?  " 

opening,  Z  „"  'the  ClL  i.  Jk  '"'*!  ""'  ''?""''>'»'  «'* 
filling  lLm*TLfir«det;itJjr.\"'''"'''"°  """'  '" 

but   the   pure   white   salt,    which   soon  after  m-l       •' 
appearance,  is  carefully  removed   and  nin-ri  i  "* 

TJra?e^t:^-d^-'i5SH^r 

,  Ihe  Village  of  Salina  is  of  considerable  aizp  «n^  »  a 
nshing  appeamnce.     The  extensive  marshewbrch  h    ""i 
It  on   the   west  are  extremely  unXlsome    d^rw'";E'* 
warmer  seasons  of  the   year    anH  t^„   T  i        ■  F,  ^^^      ■ 
hood  is  more  or  less  inLSwithlhefeveT  atd  ""''^^?'- 
terrible  scourge,  which  hasretarded  so  mu  h  theS;n!''^ 
of  many  parts  of  the  western  country?    Site  the  mi  T' 
have  been  partially  cleared  «n^  a/J-     St.     ,?  "ia"he» 
been  greatly  dimilhed  ^  ^'''"'^'  '^'  ^'«^^«^  »^" 

The  branch  canal  which  runs  throuffh  thi-  vilio,,^   • 


1^     • 


li.i 


«•( 


II   I 


'.  i| 


Ji 


'p 

'»      c 

!   '      f 

i!' 

I 


•ill!: 


lii^ 


44 


•  AMNA.       lALT   WoRKl. 


tatlon.  A  sluice  which  dmwi  off  a  portion  of  the  water 
towards  the  inarHhes  and  the  lake,  u  nmdo  to  turn  several 
null  wheels  m  its  course  A  forcing  pump  roisos  the  wa- 
ter of  the  salt  spring  destined  to  supply  the  manufactories 
here  and  at  Syracuse ;  and  a  largo  open  frame  building 
shows  the  spot  from  which  nil  the  kettles  and  the 
pans  of  both  theso  places  derive  their  supplies :  that 
for  the  lattnr  being  elevated  to  the  height  of  85   feet. 

The  6V/ 6>ri«^  Itself  will  be  viewed  as  a  curiosity, 
but  in  its  present  state  presents  no  very  remarkable  ap- 
pearance, as  there  is  little  commotion  visible  on  the  sur- 
face, and  the  source  would  seem  by  no  means  equal  to  the 
great  draughts  which  are  continually  made  upon  it. 

The  Lake  will  be  seen  at  the  distance  of  about  a  mile. 
It  is  six  miles  long  and  two  broad,  and  must  receive  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  salt  water  from  the  draining  of  tho 
marshes,  as  its  banks  are  covered  with  saline  plants.  The 
valley  is  surrounded  by  limestone  hills,  with  petrifactions, 
andgj'psum  h  found  in  great  quantities. 

"  Tke  American  Halt  Formation,'"  says  Dr.  Van 
Rensselaer  in  his  •  Essay,'  "  extends  over  the  continent 
trom  the  Alleghanies  to  the  Pacific,  between  310  and  45© 
North  Latitude.  In  this  immense  tract,  rock  salt  has 
been  occasionally  found  ;  but  its  locality  is  more  generally 
pointed  out  by  brine  springs."  The  salt  springs  in  this  state 
nro  in  the  counties  of  Onondaga,  Cayuga,  Seneca,  Ontario, 
Wiagara,  Genesee,  Tompkins,  Wayne,  and  Oneida,  but  this 
18  the  most  valuable  on  various  accounts.  During  the  year 
ending  August  1823,  606,463  bushels  were  manufactured 
here.     In  1800  there  were  only  42,754. 

45  gallons  of  water  makes  a  bushel  of  solt.  At  Nan- 
tucket 350  gallons  of  sea  water  are  required. 

The  follL»wing  approximated  analysis  of  the  water  of 
UJ18  spring  is  given  by  Dr.  Noyes  of  Hamilton  College. 
40  gallons,  or  355  lbs.  contain  56  lbs.  of  saline  extract. 

Pure  Muriate  of  Soda,  51  lb.  Carb.  Lime,  coloured  by 
oxyde  of  iron,  6^  oz.  Sulph.  Lime,  2  "lb.  4  oz.  Muriate 
Lime.  1  lb.  12i  oz.  and  probably  muiiate  magnesia,  and 
■ulph.  soda. 

From  Syracuse  to  Rochester.    Railroad. 
By  the  canal,  99  twUes.     Weed's  Basin  26  miles.— 
A  coach  to  Auburn,  8  miles  for  50  cents,    U  m.  Monte- 


<i 


j\r.  <,ft, 


o  s  w  K  i:  c) 


Pr* 


.W,-7.,.7 


!i  .(!l 


11) 


I 


ami      ^^^m 

V--- 

iii    ^^Hi 

1" 
- 

1  !■ 

ill 


i  ii 


ii  r 


m 


'-W/..V,. 


ff.:-7u 


ROUTE   TO  irUGARA. 


u 


ewendins  2  m.  Embankment,  72  feel  high, 

the  corner,  8  mUes  ^p^f   Z'lT  '  "P,''™'  '»"»  « 
than  500  a^re,     Db  m»' rr  ,  ^°t'  ""'^'"''"S   more 

and  ™.  see.,,  .M„k.'  4u=e't'I;  ^t^"  it 'jh^ 

ROCHESTER 

Is  the  largest  and  most  flourishinff  nloco  in  f),?c,  ««  »    r 

f^m^Jhe  convenient  and  ahLdt"C,7'l°l»^K;;; 
Cli"ra„'d  i'rS""  """--Eagle,  Mansion,  Monroe, 

latter  part  of  the  vearla  iT  ,11,  "I^'  ""'  ""«"  '^e 

wa,  mfde  to  t'he  nSer'" in'SabiZtr"""""""'  """'■"" 

d4"upTnXrwr„d^St;'"'=  '»™'"=  "f  ~'-' 


U'' 


piii 


f  J'. 


liiii     I: 


fli.. 


i6 


ROCHJEST£K. 


bHdl  fion  r    r."''  '^"  ^;^'  ^"'^'^^^  '^^^^     The  Broadway 
bndgo,  600  feet  long,  13  a  few  yards  above  ihe  aqueduct. 

iho  water  power  belonging  to  this  village  and  the 
V cnity  IS  equal  to  the  power  of  38,400  horses  ;  or,  1,920 
steam  engine*  of  20  horse  power  each.  Therefore  the 
rines  I7r  V  T'}"  (computing  the  cost  of  such  en- 
gines,a8  m  England,  at  $8  880  each;  and  the  annual 

aC  ''^''t''''^'  '^2  ^•^"^^'^  ^-  ^-<^^  horse  power") 
00  OoS  .^!!  ""fT  ^""""''y-  T^«  ^hole  river  sup^,li;« 
t\tTl  ?p  ^T  ""  "^'""T'  '"""^  ^he  combined  height  of 
fin  nln  ^??^T''  ^d  Carthage  is  about  280  feel  A 
al  of  Ui  cubic  feet  of  water  in  a  minute  20  feet,  is  equal 
to  the  power  of  one  horse.  ^ 

woTk!nnir'^"''  "''"r  'l^^  ^"""'"«  "  «"°  °f  ^he  finest 
woiks  on  the  course  o(  the  canal,  and  is  no  less  remark- 
able for  us  usefulness  than  for  its  architectural  beauty 
?en  a.vh ^      r  I' '' ^"'■"^  ""'''''  ^^e  river's  channel,  on 
In.  L      ?!  ^IT  1'°""-     The    river  dashes   rapidly 
gll^alTy'ab'ov:''^  '°^'^'  with  goods  and  passen^ 
A  feeder  enters  the  canal  on  the  east  side  of  the  river 
where  sluices  are  also  constructed  for  the  supply  of  the 
numerous    manufactories    built    on    the    bank.       Other 
a^uices  are  also  dug  on  the  west  side,  where  many  other 
mills  are  to  be  seen.     The  streets  of  the  town  are^  hand^ 
somely  and  regularly  laid  c.c,  and  several  of  them  aro 
very  well  built  with  store  and  dwelling  houses  of  brS 
and  stone,  and  well  flagged  on  the  side-walks. 

f«i  u^"^  '\  ^  *'^"   ^"   ^ho   Genesee  of  About  90 

teet  near  the  northern  extremity  of  the  town,  another 
near  u;  and  a  fine  one  at  Carthage,  which,  with  the 
truly  impressive  scenery  of  the  banks,  is  worthy  of  par- 
to  tt^r"'""'"'  To  vary  the  ride,  it  is  recommended 
nfttj     "^V""  ^°  ^°^"  °"  °"«  "d«  °f  ^he  river,  and 

and  J     "'^  'u^  ''T'^'''*  '''''''  ^he  bridge  a  little  above, 
and  return  on  the  other.  ^ 

Carthage.  The  fall  here  is  very  sudden,  though  not 
vardr^ThP''''P*''-v.The  ^l^^cent  is  70  feet  in  a  few 
lYl:  A  ^'T??  ^^'  evidently  been  retiring  for  ages, 
as  the  deep  gulf  bdow  the  falls,  with  its  high,  perpen- 
dioular  and  ragged  banks,  i.  sufficient  tctimonyl  and 


m 

m 

m 

'1 

1 1 


I    ri, 


m 


U<i 


'Ni 


111 


ffT 


i;  I 


^ 

ii        » 


the 
of 
cor 
in  1 
sec 
anc 
of 

StOI 

dist 

at  t 

ly  ri 

tim( 

cula 

hun^ 

been 

H 

year 

wate 

trem 

pers( 

hadj 

Or 

13  en 

betw( 

and  ] 

raisec 

inclin 

is  ma 

ROA 

ToCc 
Par 

Clai 
Har 
San( 

The 
iston  0 

agara  ' 
da  at  '. 
may  al 


ttOUTt  TO  NIAGARA. 


4r 


the  seclusion  of  the  place,  the  solemn  and  sublime  effect 
of  the  scenery,  redoubled  by  the  roaring  of  the  cataract 
combme  to  render  it  one  of  the  most  impressive  S 
in  this  part  of  the  country.  The  precipices  are  walL  of 
secondary  rocks  presenting  their^atural  stratificaL, 
and  dcscendmg  from  the  surrounding  level,  to  a  deoth 

ItnnJ.-         "'^^^'^^^d,  cutting    them  horizontally,  and 
dsap^oanngat  the  brink  of  the  falls,  which  it  has  kept 

lvl.Zi^''T'^''''''''"''  '''  ^"P«""^  hardness,  evident- 

[me   a  7  the  action  of  the  water,  for  a  much  longer 

cuTar'rh     ^^^^'?  rendering  the  descent  more  perpendi. 

W  wirh  llT"}'^  "'^''•'^''"  ^''     '^^'  '^'^^  -r«  over. 

beefable  ,o  fi'^  "'"''  '''V'  ^^"'^^•'  ^"  «°"^«  P'^«°^'  have 
been  able  to  find  a  narrow  footing  along  the  sides. 

vp«;r°  ^'^  l^^  butments  of  a  bridge  thrown  over  a  few 

water  Xt  stn  7'  T  ^T  '"  '•^"='*''  «"^  ^50  above  th" 
ZTZnA^  stood  only  a  short  time,  and  then  fed  with  a 
tremendous  crash,  by   its  own    weight.     Fortunately  no 

had  just  before  passed,  and  safely  reached  ti;e  other  side. 
On  account  of  the  obstructions  at  the  falls,   navigation 

ItZ'^iTT^'fl'''^'  "^"^  ^"  '^^  co^muniLton 
and  Lake  n  ^^^  -^  u^  ^'""T'^  ^'  ^^»  ^'  'he  canal, 
t^LT  K '\""', ''  '^'""-'^  Carthage.  Merchandise  is 
med  up  the  bank,  or  lowered  down,  by  means  of  an 
nchned  plane,  very  steep,  where  the  descending  weight 
IS  made  to  raise  a  lighter  one  by  its  superior  gravity.     ^ 

Road  from  Rochester  to  Niagara  Falls,  87  miles. 
To  Lockport,  and  thence  a  railroad  to  the  Falls. 
To  Carthage  Falls    -    -    '2)  To  Gaines    .... 
^'^'"'"^ i^l       Oak  Orchard     -    . 


Ciarkson  -  ...  7 
Hiirtland  -  -  «  .  14 
Sandy  Creek    ...    7 


Cambria 
Lewiston 
Niagara  Falls 


8 
7 
11 
15 
7 


\jy^  P'jiicipal  objects  on  this  road,  are  the  Ridge,  Lew- 
iston  on  Niagara  River,  and  the  Tuscarora  Villale.  Ni- 
agara Village  will  be  seen  if  you  do  not  cross  into  Cana- 
da  at  Lewiston ;  and  Queenstown  if  you  do.  Lockport 
may  also  bo  seen  by  leaving  the  stage  road  at  Hartlaad. 


•         ' 


■  ;  *  J 


H'r  -I 

,r.rr    , 

m  -I 


r     H 


46 


LOCKPORT. 


if 


I 


111 


54  milo«  from  Roclicstcr,  w'ncrn  a  vehicle  awaitd  the  sr* 
rivol  of  the  coach,  to  take  travellors  to  LocUport,  7  inilp*. 
It  will  bo  proper,  however,  to  pay  your  passage  only  to 
this  place,  if  you  detertnin«  to  stop  here. 

Instead  of  going  by  land  from  Rochester,  it  may  he  more 
convenient  to  take  passage  in  the  canal  boat  to  Lockport ; 
and  there  take  the  railroad. 

The  RiDGK  is  a  remarkable  elevation,  of  little  height, 
and  for  the  most  part  very  narrow,  extending  a  great 
part  of  the  distance  from  Rcxrhcster  to  Lewislon.  It  is 
often  perfectly  le>el  for  several  miles,  and  affords  an  ad- 
mirable foundation  for  the  road,  which  has,  in  conse- 
quence, been  laid  along  its  top. 

The  ground  presents  a  slope  on  each  side  of  the  path, 
peculiarly  well  adapted  for  home  lots,  gardens,  and  or- 
chards ;  and  the  frequency  and  facility  of  transportation 
give  tlie  inhabitants  very  manifest  advantages.  Some 
well  built,  and  even  handsome  houses  will  bo  observed, 
which  are  still  few  indeed,  but  show  that  a  good  style  hug 
actually  been  introduced. 

Lockport.  This  is  one  of  the  interesting  places  on  thfl 
canal.  Hero  is  the  noblest  display  of  locks,  two  ranges, 
made  of  fine  hewn  stone,  being  constructed  against  the 
brow  of  the  Mountain  Ridge,  where  the  foaming  ol  tho 
waste  water,  the  noise  of  mills,  and  the  bustle  of  occupa- 
tion excite  many  lively  feelingn.  Above  the  locks  the 
Deep  Cut  offers  a  singular  passage  between  high  walli  of 
rocks. 

Lockport  is  one  of  the  most  advantageous  sites  for 
machinery  on  the  canal,  as  all  the  water  passes  down 
the  mountain  ridge,  which  the  canal  requires,  for  an  ex- 
tent of  135  miles:  Tonawanta  Creek  being  the  only 
feeder  from  Buffalo  to  the  Seneca  River.  It  is  brought 
down  by  passing  round  the  double  locks,  and  falls  55 
feet  into  a  lorge  natural  basin.  The  rocks  are  blasted  out 
to  a  depth  of  60  feet.  Within  a  few  years,  the  spot  has 
been  changed  from  a  wilderness  to  a  village  of  several 
hundred  houses.  It  is  65  miles  to  Rochester,  and  27  to 
Buffalo. 

Minerals.  Tho  rocky  stratum  is  a  carbonate  of  lime, 
containing  organic  remains :  encrinitos,  enthrocites,  &e. 
&c.  crystal*  of  carb.  lime,   rhomboidal,  dog-tooth    spur, 


n 


Y. 
^ 


\ 


f'Hi 


f 


'ii     ''^ 


» 

y^j 

'  i 

^ 

fi' 

N'l 

■ 

t 

Fi 

' 

If  ♦! 


(F  f-i  ■  : 


ROUTE    TO   NIAQAnA. 


49 


I2  8itl«.l;  fl,mte  of  limo;  bonutifnl  rry.tals  of  sulphate 

InrM'"  '^"'^'^""^^.  ^i'^-'KRVATroN  is  an  ohlong  tract  of 
kn.l  reaching  within  a  mlK,  of  Lowiston.  They  em^ 
gratia    run.  North  Carolina,  noar  the  beginning  VUil 

^M.  h  h.  ""  '"?""     ''''"''  '"^^   »»'«»•   confech.raov, 

Xi  V  havn"r">  "'7"-"^  ^''"  '"^"^^  "^^^«  Six  Nation; 
i-i'y  havo    had  a  cU-r-yrnan    8etil(,(l    amonff  them   for 

ma..y  years   and  Christianity  has  been  voluntarily  "hpted 

rnl    'T',  r^^''""  "^l'^«°    '"'^  «""^"   handsome    and    well 
cult.vatod  farms,  and  a  house  built  for  public  worship 

Hints  to  thk  Traveller  at  Lewiston. 
It  will  be  the  intention  of  many  stran-crs  who  arrive 
a  th.s  place  to  devote  several  days  to  viewing  th.  Fall! 
ol  Niagara  the  batll.  grounds  in  the  vicinity?  and  pe! 
hap  H.  makmg  short  excursions  in  diflerent^direct.on 
To  those  who  have  leisure,  such  a  course  n,ay  ^eThe 
recommend..d  ;   and  it  may   be  almost  a  matter  of  indift 

^sh  r.  "    T^'  '^7J''''  '''''  ^''^  ^"^^*"'=»"  <^^  the  Bri- 
b  th     1 '■     ^^^   P"^'>«.'^<^-co"^n^<"i'Uions   are  excellent  at 

hour  of  the  day  by  a  ferry,  at  the  expe.fse  of  about  half 
a  loJIar,  mciudmg  the  transportation  of  luggage  down 
and  "P  the  steep  banks,  siaircases  are  e.fcted  t  ar 
the  fa  Is,  on  the  Bnt.sh  as  well  as  the  American  side,  to 
urnish  a  convenient  mode  of  descending  to  the  foot  of 
the  cataract,  where  the  charge  ,s  25  c,3nfs  for  each  per- 
son.  During  the  pleasant  seasons  of  the  year,  both 
places  are  the  resort  of  great  throngs  of  visiters.  '  Stage 
coa  hes  also  pass  ,ip  and  down  on  both  sides  every  day 

in  bif  •'  ,^rT'\  ^'  ^'"""'  ^'''  ^  ^^'"--^  ''•"«  to  spend 
n  this  neighbourhood,  it  may  be  strongly  recommended 
to  proceed  directly  to  the  British  side,  ''^he  cataract  „ 
th  t  side  IS  ngber  broader,  more  unbroken,  and  gene- 
TkL'lftn  '^'-^V'"'  ^he  noblest  part  of  the  sfene. 
GnlWr'''^  'l^'"^  '"^^  "  ^°  S'''^'  advantage  from 
T  ?h  «  R  '\ '  ""  J^f  American  side,  but  the  view  from 
iabla  Kock  ought  by  no  means  to    bo  neglected.     Th» 


fio 


flLtS  Of   NIAGARA. 


1 


finest  views  from  the  level  of  the  water  below  arc  now  af- 
forded on  both  sides. 

THE  FALLS  OF  m\QXliX--from  the  American  side, 

Tho  Inn  or  Hotel  is  a  large  building,  and  very  well 
kept  and  conimodions. 

On  tho  American  side  a  bridge  crosses  a  frightf  '  part 
of  the  rapids  to  13;ith  Island,  and  another  thence  to  Goat 
Island.  I'art  of  a  bridge  nMuain^,  which  extended  to  Ter- 
rapin Rocka,  and  beyond  to  the  brow  of  the  cataract  By 
n  you  may  reach  the  Stone  Tower,  to  the  top  of  which  a 
Winding  staircase  leads,  adording  a  most  impressive  view 
of  the  awful  scene  below. 

The  Biddlo  Staircase,  erected  at  the  expense  of  Nicho- 
las Diddle,  Ksq.  of  Philadelphia,  leads  from  Iris  Island  to 
the  bottom  of  tho  precipice.  You  descend  first  stone 
steps  40  feet,  between  stone  walls,  then  by  88  stops  under 
a  wooden  cover,  which  brings  you  to  three  pathways  with 
stone  steps,  which  conduct  to  tho  water's  edge,  whence 
the  view  upward  is  most  imposing. 

Several  picturesque  and  romantic  avenues  and  rocky 
recesses  are  to  be  seen  ut  different  parts  of  the  river'a 
banks. 

The  height  of  the  fallen  this  side  is  160  feet  perpen- 
dicular,  but  somewhat  broken  in  several  places  by  the 
projecting  rocks.  It  extends  300  yards  to  a  rock  which 
interrupts  it  on  the  brow  of  the  precipice.  A  narrow 
sheet  appears  beyond  it,  and  then  comes  Goat  Island, 
with  a  mural  precipice.  Between  this  and  the  other 
shore  is  the  Gran4  Crescent,  for  which  see  a  few  pages 
beyond.  The  long  bridge  to  the  island,  which  com- 
mands many  fine  views  of  the  falls,  rests  on  wooden 
piers  sunk  with  stones. 

The  staircase  conducts  safely  to  the  bottom  of  the  pre- 
cipice ;  and  boats  may  row  up  near  to  the  cataract. 

About  two  miles  below  the  Falls,  is  a  mineral  spring, 
said  to  contain  sulphuric  and  muriatic  acids,  lime  and 
magnesia. 

There  is  a  ferry  at  Lewiston,  which  is  about  half  a 
mde  across;  but  the  current  is  strong  on  this  side,  and 
tho  eddy  sets  up  with  such  force  on  the  other,  that  a 


m' 


m 


BATTLE  OF  QUEIN8TOWN. 


SI 


boat  moves  more  than  double    that    distance    in   goinr 

.3  much  .ig.tuuu  l.y  counter  currents  and  changing  whirl- 
pool.:  for  the  crrymen  uro  taught  by  their  exnerTence 
to  manage  the  boat  with  care,  and  no[  only  toTake  ad- 
vantage of  the  currents,  but  to  avoid  ail  the  .Ugh  placoa 
r.pp...  and  whirlpools.  The  bunks  here  have  fn  appeal' 
ance  very  wild  and  strikin-.  appearw 

QUEENSTOWN,  on  the  Canada  side    of  the  river    is  a 
small  town,  uninteresting,    except  so  far  aV  nl  ds  it^ 

The  Battle    of  Queenstoum.      Dann<r   th«>  last  wnr 
between  the  Unir.,1  States  and  Great  13dt!i„,   ^  1812 
while  Gen.  Van  Rensselaer  was  stationed  at  Lewiston 

Lfor«''T'^r"i'  ^'^'    '*'^'^"  "^'  '^^^'^S  QueenstownTand; 
barked  t-^f^'  '"  the  morning  of  October  13th,  he  eml 

under.  T^f  ^'  '^''  ^'"y'  '^"^  P^--'^^  "ver   he  rivTr 

under  cover  of  a  battery.     As  the  accessible  points  on  the 
coast  were  strictly  watched,  and  defended  by  bltterTes  of 

iTvVnT"''^' '^^f'\'"^^^'«^^^^  ^--  ^^«  at'tackwasthe 
Two  n Ar'^''^""",'.  'f'^'^J"''  "^""^'  '^b""^  300  f«et  high. 

brow     h'  '""''r  ''^"T"=^  ^^^  '^^^^  ^'•^''•tecl  on  the 

brow,  the  remains  of  which  are  still  visible;  but  the  land- 
inff  was  effected,  the  heights   were  surmounted,  and  the 

in   bZV'T'"'"^  '^^"■^'^   ^'''^'^   «"  the 'summit! 
hZ'  ^'°"''',^^"  ^««  at  a  distance,  hearing  the  guns 
hastened  to  the  spot;  but  under  a  tree  near  the  prec^p  ce 
was  kdled  by  a  chance  shot.     The  Americans   rCZed 

oblLeTr'""  "^  '^'^  ^^^^^^  ^  ^^^  ^'°"'-«'  but  were    hen 
Obliged  to  re-cross  the  river. 

tbp^R^-^'"''''"'''^   ^'^    G^e^icraZ  5rocyfc   was    raised  by 

of  Gen    R    ^r''""'r  ^"  '^'^''^'  ^«^4  5  ^"d  the  remains 
ot  Gen.  Brock  were  deposited  there.     Its  height  was  126 

XT  bet^'aVoT  ?T  ^'^  '.^^^  '^  ^-y  fine^and  Txten! 
lhe%yZL^r  ^'^°^\the  river.     In  clear  weather 

tne  eye  embraces  not  only  the  river  below,  and  the  towns 
of  Lewiston  and  Queenstown,  but  those  'of  Newark Tnd 


I 


■Ar 


i  ; ;  ii 


'IW 


N 


02 


FALLa  OF  NIAQASA. 


hovt  map^am,  at  iho  cntrimco  of  Lake  Ontario,  Toronto 
harbour,  Yoiui^stowii,  part  of  ihii  rouio  of  iho  VVollund 
Canal,  a  vam  J(«vt>l  tract  of  country  covorcd  with  an  uni- 
form forost,  and  tho  horizon  fonnod  by  tho  distant  lakn 
itsolf. 

It  han  hpjni  lately  blown  up  with  gunpowder  by  some 
unknown  person. 

From  QuociiHtown  to  Niagara  Falls  is  sovon  milei, 
over  a  level,  sandy  road. 

The  country  between  Niagara  and  Toronto,  U.  C.  ia  con- 
«"iered  the  most  beautiful,  most  fertile,  and  best  culti- 
vated part  of  the  province. 

The  Whirm'ooi.,  sometimes  called  tho  Devil's  Hole, 
cannot  bo  been  without  leaving  the  road  and  going  to 
tho  bank.  The  rocks  arc  about  300  feet  above  the  wa- 
ter; and  during  tho  late  war  50  Americans  wcro  driven 
ofl  by  a  party  of  Indians,  in  the  ni«ht,  mistaking  the 
trees  for  the  verge  of  a  wood.  Ono  was  saved  by  lalline 
into  a  cedar.  ° 

A  leisurely  walk  tho  whole  distance,  near  the  river, 
may  please  tho  admirer  of  nature;  as  the  high  and  rocky 
clitld  which  form  the  banks  on  both  sides  present  a  con- 
tinued succession  of  striking  scenes. 

Although  the  surface  of  the  ground  frequently  indicates 
the  passage  of  water  in  some  lorig  past  period,  the  whole 
road  is  much  elevated  above  tho  river,  and  owing  to  this 
circumstance  the  iraveller  is  disappointed  at  not  getting  a 
sight  of  a  cataract  from  a  distance,  as  it  remains  conceal- 
ed by  the  banks,  luuil  ho  has  approadied  very  near.  It 
frequently  happens,  also,  that  tho  roar  of  the  cataract  is 
not  perceived  before  reaching  the  inn,  for  the  intervening 
bank  intercepts  the  eound  so  much  that  the  noise  of  the 
wheels  is  sometimes  sufficient  to  drown  it  entirely.  Yet, 
strange  as  it  may  appear,  the  inhabitants  declare,  that  at 
the  .^amo  time  it  may  very  probably  be  heard  on  the  shore 
of  L»ko  Ontario. 

THE  FALLS  OF  mAGAHA^From  the  British  side. 

There  are  large  Inns  and  Hotels  or.  tho  Canadian  side 
of  the  river,  situated  as  near  tho  falls  as  could  be 
desired.     Ono  stands  on  what  ought  strictly  to  bo  called 


■1 


TAHLK    ROCK. 


53 


tho  up7,«r  ian*  for  that  elevation  appears  to  have  onco 
fomod  the  T.ver'«  Hhore.  Th.a  is  tile  lar«or  house  ;  the 
g  I  ene.  and  window,  in  the  rear  command  a  fine  iiew 
of  the  cataract,  althongh  not  an  entire  one,  and  overlook 
the  rap,d«  and  rivrr  for  several  miles  al.o.e. 

i^oljowing  a  footpath  through  the  pasture  behind  For- 
syth s,  the  stranger  soon  finds  himself  on  the  steep  brow 

IUaL?  !"*•  "".''  /^°  '"*«^^y  "^^'^'^^^  of  Niagara 

suddenly  opfMiH  beneath  Jim.  ^ 

♦,  JV"'",  'u"'*^  '^  aprojcciion  a  few  yards  from  the  ca- 
taract, which  oommnnds  a  fin.*  view  of  this  magnificent 

vjow  11,0  hoiiiht  of  the  (all  on  this  side  is  said  to  he 
174  fret  porpondicular;  and  this  height  the  vast  8heet  of 
loam  preserves  unbroken,  f^niio  round  the  Grand  Crescent. 

Lm  t"m  '  u  ".  ^''T^''^  "f  700  yards.     The  distance 

rom  I  able  Hock  to  'I  ermmation  Rock  is  ir,3  feet     Goat 

sUnd  divides  iho  cataract,  and  jusi  beyond  it  slanda  an 

3olaod   rocL     Tho   fall   on  the    American   si.lo   is   ia 

breadth  900  feet,  the  hci^rht    J60.  and    about  two  third* 

the  distance  to  the  bottom  tho  sheet  is  broken  by  project- 

Jng  rocks.     A  bridge  built  from  the  American  side  con- 

nccfs  Goat  Island  and  the  main  land,  though  invisible  from 

this  spot. 

It  may  bo  recommended  to  tho  traveller  to  visit  this 
place  as  often  as  he  can,  and  to  view  it  from  every  neigh- 
bouring point;  as  every  change  of  lifrht  exhibits  it  under 
a  dittercnt  and  interesting  aspect.  The  rainbows  are  to 
be  seen,  from  this  side,  only  in  the  afternoon ;  but  at 
that  time  the  clouds  of  mist,  whicl  are  continually  rismir 
from  the  gulf  below,  often  present  them  in  the  utmost 
beauty. 

Dr.  Dwight  gives  the  following  estimates,  m  his  Tra- 
vels of  the  quantity  of  waier  which  passes  the  cataract 
01  JNiagara.  The  river  at  tho  ferry  is  7  furlongs  wide, 
and  on  an  average  25  feet  deep.  The  current  probable? 
runs  six  miles  an  hour;  but  supposing  it  to  be  only  5 
miles,  the  quantity  that  passes  the  falls  in  an  hour,  is 
more  than  85  millions  of  tons  avoirdupois  ;  if  we  suppose 
,jI  '  ')  """  ^®  "^^'^  ^han  102  millions,  and  in  a  day 
^ou!d  be  ^400  millions  of  ton«.    Tho  noisi,  it  is  8aid,*s 


r 


'^  If  I 


r  i: 


54 


RAPIDS. 


li 


;fi--'M 


,1 


:1         ■ 

I'H        .Ml, 


sometimea  heard  ut  Toronto,  50  miles.  Table  Rock  is  60 
feol  below  tho  level  of  Lake  Eric. 

The  Rapids  begin  about  half  a  mile  above  the  ca- 
taract. The  inhabitants  of  the  neighbourhood  legard  it 
as  certain  death  to  get  once  involved  in  them.  Instances 
are  oa  record  of  persons  being  carried  down  by  the 
stream  ;  but  no  one  is  known  to  have  ever  survived.  In- 
deed, it  is  very  rare  that  the  bodies  are  found.  Wild 
ducks,  geese,  &c.  are  frequently  precipitated  over  the  ca- 
taract, and  generally  reappear  either  dead  or  with  their 
legs  or  wings  broken. 

The  most  sublime  scene  is  presented  to  the  observer 
when  he  views  the  cataract  from  below;  and  there  he 
may  have  an  opportunity  of  going  under  tho  cataract. 
This  scene  is  represented  in  the  plate.  To  render  the 
descent  practicable,  a  spiral  staircase  has  been  formed  a 
little  way  from  Table  Rock,  supported  by  a  tall  mast;  and 
the  stranger  descends  without  fear,  because  his  view  is 
confined.  On  reaching  the  bottom,  a  rough  path  among 
the  rocks  winds  alongat  the  foot  of  tho  precipice,  although 
the  heaps  of  loose  stones  which  have  fallen  down,  keep  it 
at  a  considerable  height  above  the  water.  A  large  rock 
lies  on  the  very  brink  of  the  river,  about  15  feet  long  and 
8  feet  thick,  which  yon  may  climb  op  by  means  of  a  lad- 
der, and  enjoy  the  best  central  view  of  the  falls  anywhere 
to  be  found.  This  rock  was  formerly  a  part  of  the  pro- 
jection  above,  and  fell  about  20  years  ugo,  with  a  tremen- 
dous roar. 

In  proceeding  nearer  to  the  sheet  of  falling  water,  the 
path  leads  far  under  the  excavated  bank,  which  in  one 
place  forms  a  roof  that  overhangs  about  40  feet.  The 
vast  column  of  water  continually  pouring  over  the  preci- 
pice, produces  violent  whirls  in  the  air;  and  the  spray  is 
driven  out  with  such  force,  that  no  one  can  approach  to 
the  edge  of  the  cataract,  or  even  stand  a  few  moments 
near  it,  without  being  drenched  to  the  skin.  It  is  also 
very  difficult  to  breathe  there,  bo  that  persons  with  weak 
lungs  would  act  prudently  to  content  themselves  with  a 
distant  view,  and  by  no  means  to  attempt  to  go  under 
the  cataract.  The  celebrated  navigator  captain  Basil 
Hall,  on  a  visit  here  in  .1827,  found  that  the  air  under 


II- 


FALL*   OSf   NlAOARi, 


&i 


ihe  cataract  is  not 


gusts  of  wind  more  violent  tha 
witnessed.      Tliose  who  are  d 


compressed:  !.nt  he  considered  th 


0 


n  any  pals  he  had  ever 

cbirous  of  exnlorrntr  this 

tremendous  cavern,  should  attend  very  carefully  to  their 

BlCpS. 

In    the  summer  of  1827,  an  old  schooner  calM    the 
Michigan  was  lowed  by  a  row    hoat  to  the  margin  of  ihe 
rapids,  where  she  was  al.aridoned  to  her  fale.     Thousands 
of  persons  had    asseml.jid   to  witness  the  descent      A 
ntimher  of  wild  animala  had  been  inhumanly  placed  on  her 
deck,  confined,  to  pass  the  cat.::ract  with  her.     She  pass- 
ed  the  first  fall  of  the  rapids  in  safety,  but  struck  a  rock 
at  the  second  and  lost   her  m«8t8.     There  she  remained 
an  instant,  until  the  current  turned   her  round  and   boro 
lier  away.     A  bear  hero  leaped  overboard   and  swam  to 
the  shore.     The  vessel  soon  filled  and  sank,  so  that  only 
her  upper  works  were  afterwards  visible.     She  went  over 
the  cataract  almost  without  being  seen,  and  in  a  few  mo* 
ments  the  basin  was  perceived  all  .scattered  with  her  frag- 
ments, which  were  very  small      A  cat  and  a  goose  were 
the  only  animals  Tonnd  alive  below. 

The  DuRNiNo  Spring.  About  half  a  mile  above  the 
falls,  and  within  a  few  feet  of  the  rapids  in  Niagara  Ri- 
yer,  is  a  remarkable  IJurning  Spring.  The  water,  which 
IS  warm,  turbid,  and  surcharged  with  sulphurated  hydro- 
gen gas,  rises  in  a  barrel  which  has  been  placed  in  the 
ground,  and  n  constantly  in  a  stale  of  ebullition.  The 
barrel  is  covered,  and  the  gas  escapes  only  through  a  cop- 
per tube.  On  bringing  a  candle  within  a  little  distance 
of  It,  the  gas  takes  fire,  and  continues  to  burn  with  a 
bright  flame  until  blown  out. 

While  on  the  Canada  side  of  the  falls,  the  visiter  may 
vary  his  time  very  aareeably,  by  visiting  the  village  of 
Chippewa  and  Luiidy'y  Lane,  in  this  vicinity;  which,  dur- 
ing the  late  war  with  Great  Britain,  were  the  scenes  of 
two  siiarp  contests. 

The  Battle  or  Chippewa.  In  July,  1814,  the  Bri- 
tisa  and  American  armies  being  near  each  other.  General 
Kipley  ordered  General  Scott  to  make  an  advance  on 
Chippewa,  oj.\  the  3d  of  July,  with  Captain  1  owaon's  di- 

6 


.'»r) 


n\  1  rr.ir.  or  ciiiim'Kwa. 


,|tl- 


• 


viHiOM  of  artillery  ;  iirid  iho  onomy'H  pickets  were  soon 
forcod  to  rciiro  ucmss  i|,o  hridgo.  Ooiieral  Ripley  came 
up  in  iho  afiornooii  aiul  cncuinptid  with  General  Scoli's 
adviiDco. 

Tiio  Rtrnf)<rpr  tnay  bo  Knitilled  l)v  exiiminin<(  the  Held  of 
those  operations,  hy  ^omg  to  Chippewa  Villuge,  about 
two  miles  above  Forsyth's.  'J'ho  Aineriean  ei«';ampment 
o/  July  aild,  is  in  tiie  reiirof  a  tavern  near  the  road,  about 
a  mile  beyond  Chippewa. 

On  the  f)th,  after  hoiiio  sharp   shootin/j,  the  Indiana 
were  discovered  almost  in  the  rear  of  the  y\merican  camp. 
At  Uiis  n»oinontCenorul  I'orier  arrived  with  his  volunteers 
or-i  Indiana.     General  IJrown  immediately  directed  them 
to  enter   the  wooda  and  elfectually  scour  them.     Gens. 
Brown,  Scott,  and    Kiploy  were  at  the  while  house,  iti 
advance,  reconnoiiering.     (Joneral  Porter's  corps  had  al- 
most debouched  from  the  woods  0()posiie  Chippewa,  wheu 
the  whole  British  force  had  crossed  the  Chippewa  Bridge, 
and  General   Scott  advanced,  and  Gen.   Riplev  was  iii 
readiness  to  support.     In  a  few  minutes  the  British  line 
was  discovered  formed  and  rapidly  advancing— their  right 
(the  Royal  Scots)  upon  the   woods,  and  their  left  (the 
Prince  Regent's)  on  the  river,  with  the  king's  own  for 
their  reserve.     Their  object  was  to  gain  the  bridge  across 
the  creek  ni  front  of  the  encampment,  which  would  have 
compelled  the  Aineticans  to  ntire.     Gen.  Urown,  fearing 
a  flank  movement  of  the  enemy  through  the  woods  on  the 
left,  directed  General  Ripley  noi,  io  advance  until  he  gave 
him  orders      Meanwhile    General   Scott,  under  a  most 
tremendous  fire  from  the  enemy's  artillery,  crossed   the 
bridge,  and  formed  his  line.     The  British  orders  were  to 
give  one  volley  at  a  distance,  and   immediately  charge. 
But  such  was  the  warmth  of  our  musquctry  that  they 
could  not  withstand  it.     At  this  moment  General  Brown 
sent   orders  to   General    Ripley  to  make   a  movement 
through  the  woods  upon  the  enemy's  right  flank.     With 
the  21st  regiment  he  passed  a  ravine  in  hi?  front,  where 
the  men  had  to  wado  up  to  their  chins,  and  advanced  as 
rapidly  as  possihie.    But  before  he  commenced  filing  from 
the  woods  into  the  open  lind  under  the  enemy's  batteries, 


T,' 


nATTr.K  OF  iiuinfiKWATicn.  57 

verrorcd.ftl,  I        '1'*-'*''  ''^"f"""'"  ^^''^""'<'  <^h.,,pcwa 
mi      i  waif  M      ^;';'«\'"««''»l<ill'^-<J.   wounded  and 

20th  n?        ""P^^lance  occurred  after  this  until  the 
',p, "'  ,V'"  «a">f^  '"""th,  the  date  of 

IIIO    UatTLK    of    iJRinOKWATKR.    or    LuNDv'fl     Tanp 

i  airrr'l  ^r'"  'i  ^^'^  ».ard-A,.Uuu:iz, ;  1;^ 

0  d       .lied   I  '"T  ."^'t^'''"^  °'  ^''^^»-'  «^  «»  "'--e 

Ch.Lw!  t/'"''''^'-   ^/"r      '"^""^^  ^''^'^   ^«i^««t   from 

troS  Zn  Lrrr,  ""'   •■'^^'^'^'^'^   remrorcements   of 

ZTnho    ilr    ^^^'"'"i^"'"  «  ""-my  in  Spain;  and  on 

aLkil In  i^  '"'"'"'"'^  ""  "  ^'"'  ^'^h   the   design  of 
attacking  the  American  cHn,,)  ihe  next   mornin.r.     At  6 

^1  ance     nd^tP^rTr'  ^^^'^  "'''''''  Gcne.al'scou  to 
a  d  i^.  L  "'''  ^^''"'  ^'"^^'  was  nnn.ed.au.ly  done: 

cdatsee...,thea;;:L./:^£t::^:;";::rr 

and    Z,?.^"'"''r'    ^^^""   '^"'"  ^^^«y  '^^^  '^-  wood 

?roVSt?.H'T.   "'^n   '^^  0P-"evel  fields  «een 
irom  forsytl,  s  Hotel,  and  about  a  quarierof  a  mile  to  the 

The  followinnr  letter,  written  by   a  surgeon  of  one  of 
he  American  .eg.r.u.ts.  the  day' after  the  enga.ernent 
contains  some  n.iereHi.ng  pnrticlrs:  "g^temcnt. 

ll.eor;e,r:y  had  collected  ihoir  whole  force  in   the 
penms,.la,  and  were  reinforced  by  troops  fro.n  Lord  Wei 
Jington's   armv^jnst   landed   from   Kingston      For  two 

aTotr^r.  '"1'''  '"^t  ^''"^  withirttwenty\°;rd  Tf 
officer  u  r  ^'"^''"^^"''y  '"tern-ingled,  that  ofton  an 

brilht     in    '  ^'fV  '""'"^'^  f''^^"""-   '^'ho  moon  shcne 
bright  ,  b...  part  of  o.ir  men  being  dressed  l,ke  the  Glen 

t  largeci,  and  were  as  often  drive.,  back      Our  retriment 
un.b.r  nolonel  MUlcr,  was  ordered  to  storn.    he^Bm.sh 
battery.     We  rharged,  and  took  every  piece  of  the  Z 


im  ' 


^ii 


58 


WSLLAND   CANAL. 


; 

1. 

I 

!i. 

"  ,r 

my's  cannon.  We  kept  ])08seB8ion  of  the  ground  and 
cannon  until  12  o'clock  at  night,  when  we  all  foil  back 
more  than  two  niiles.  This  was  done  to  secure  our  camp, 
which  might  otherwise  have  been  attacked  in  the  rear. 
Our  horses  being  most  of  them  killed,  and  there  bemg 
no  ropes  to  the  pieces,  we  got  off  l<iit  iwo  or  three.  The 
men  wi're  so  excessively  fatigued  they  could  not  drag 
them.  We  lost  one  piece  of  camion,  which  was  too 
much  advanced,  every  man  being  shot  that  had  charge  of 
it,  but  two  Several  of  our  caissons  were  blown  up  l>y 
their  rockets,  which  did  soma  injury,  and  deprived  our 
cannon  of  ammunition.  The  lines  were  so  near  that  can- 
non could  not  lie  used  with  advantage. " 

The  British  lost,  in  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners, 
-878;  and  the  Americans  860. 

The  Welland  canal  begins  near  the  mouth  of  Grand 
River,  Upper  Canada,  empties  itself  into  Lake  Erie, 
about  10  miles  from  Niagara.  It  will  admit  the  largest 
vesi^els  on  the  lakes,  viz.  those  of  125  tons.     Here  is 

Port  MaiUand,  which  is  capable  of  receiving  a  number 
»>f  vessels  such  as  navigate  the  Lake,  for  which  tiie  Canal 
is  calculated. 

Grand  River  .serves  as  a  part  of  the  navigable  line  for 
a  distance  of  128  chains ;  and  then  Broad  Creek  for  70 
chains,  The  excavations  there  commence,  and  the  Canal 
enters  the 

Mainflect  Marsh.  This  is  a  tract  of  swampy  land, 
elevated  only  about  8  feet  above  the  level  of  Lake  Erie, 
and  extending  from  its  shore  to  Welland  or  Chippewa 
River.  The  canal  passes  it  by  a  thorough  cut  ten  miles 
long  and  varying  from  10  to  16  feet  in  depth,  communi- 
cating with  many  ponds  and  pooU.  It  is  a  fact  well  esta- 
blished by  scientific  surveyors,  that  only  a  narrow  ledge 
of  rocks  occurs  between  the  two  lakes,  and  that,  if  this 
were  removed,  the  soil  is  generally  of  so  loose  a  nature, 
that  a  current  of  water  might  soon  wear  away  a  deep 
channel,  drain  off  Lake  Erie,  and  cause  a  tremei^dous 
inundtition.  This  barrier  will  be  seen  at  the  Monyitain 
Ridge,  on  the  northern  part  of  the  Canal,  where  the  do- 
scent  is  above  300  feet.  From  Lake  Erie  to  that  place 
the  stranger  will  observe  that  he  proceeds  on  an  almost 
uiiinterrupted  level.     The   continuation  of  the  Mountain 


in; 


tlttS    of    NIAGARA. 


59 


■ 

I 


Ridge  forms  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  and  the  elevation 
of  ground  at  Lockport,  surmounted  by  the  noble 
works  at  that  place.  It  runs  for  muny  miles,  presenting' 
towards  the  east  an  irregular  line  of  precipice,  with  sali- 
t;nt  and  re-entering  angles,  like  an  immense  fortification. 
Most  of  the  streams  which  fall  over  it  pour  down  the 
ravines  thus  formefl. 

The  Welland  River,  a  very  sluggish  stream,  is  used 
for  10  miles,  being  entered  by  a  lock  of  8  feet  lift,  a  tow- 
ing path  being  formed  along  its  bank. 

On  leaving  Welland  River,  the  boats  pass  a  ravine  6G 
chains  in  length,  where  the  excavations  are  8  or  10  feet 
deep. 

The  Deep  Cut,  We  approach  a  part  of  the  canal  in 
Avhich  the  greatest  labour  and  expense  were  required. 
It  extends  1^  miles,  and  required  the  excavation  of  1,477,- 
700  cubic  yards  of  earth.  The  excavation  is  to  an  aver- 
age depth  of  45  feet.  The  ground  is  undulating,  and  the 
greatest  depth  is  56  feet. 

The  Mountain  Ridge.  Within  the  extent  of  a  mile 
and  55  chains  are  17  locks  of  22  feet  by  100,  which  over- 
come nearly  the  whole  elevation  of  Lake  Erie  above  On- 
tario. The  canal  winds  along  the  face  of  the  descent, 
being  on  the  left  and  right,  to  give  room  for  reservoirs 
between  the  locks,  necessary  for  a  convenient  supply  of 
water.  None  of  the  locks  arc  less  than  30  yards  apart. 
This  is  the  only  part  oi  the  route  where  rocks  were  to  be 
excavated,  and  the  amount  of  rock  removed  here  was 
70,000  (Mibio  yards. 

At  tiie  foot  of  this  long  and  steep  descent  the  canal  en- 
ters a  ravine,  which  extends  2^  miles  through  12  locks, 
between  high  Iwinks,  to 

St.  Catherine's.  The  descent  from  the  top  of  the 
ridge  to  this  place  is  322  feet.  To  Lake  Ontario  from 
this  place,  5  miles,  there  are  4  locks,  32  feet  by  125,  and 
one  of  10  feet  lift.  The  route  runs  chiefly  along  the  val- 
ley of  the  principal  branch  of  the  Twelve  Mile  Creek. 

Port  Dalhousie,  the  harbour  of  the  Welland  Canal  on 
Lake  Ontario,  is  protected  by  two  fine  piers,  run  out  200 
or350  yards,  nearly  at  ths  angle  of  gtorm,  >fhif;h  i»  u\i<i\kt 
80  degrees  west. 

6* 


4 


ETTT  fST": 


«o 


THE    WKSTERM    LAKKI. 


11' 


l|iji 


Tho  locks  are  of  wood,  but  built  on  tho  most  approved 
principloa.  Tho  roninion  dirrionsions  aru  100  ft-ct  lonp, 
22  wido  and  8  din-p  ;  and  arc  calculated  for  vessels  of 
from  100  to  125  Umis  burthen. 

Toronto,  the  capital  of  IJppor  Cnnnda,  is  n  place  of  con- 
8iderabl(i  size.  The  puhlu;  buildi.^H  make  little  figure. 
1  he  hahour  19  very  fine,  pn.toctcd  by  defensive  w(»rk»  on 
Gibraltar  I'oint.  Kind's  Collei-e  is  of  roc^nt  institution, 
and  bears  the  style  und  privilciros  of  a  university. 

The  traveller  has  now  entered  tho  great  valley  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  which  embnices  the  five  great  lakes;  Supe- 
rior, Huron,  Michigan,  Krie  and  Ontario,  as  well  a» 
Champlnin  and  its  beautiful  tributary,  Lake  George.  Its 
length  is  nearly  1800  miles,  and  area  about  bait  a  million, 
of  which  about  73,000  are  water.  Here  were  the  scenes 
of  the  early  French  discoveries,  and  the  Jesuit  mission^* 
«mong  the  Lidians,  miiny  of  whom,  with  ibe  idolatry  of 
Home,  wore  taught  implucable  batred  against  the  protest- 
ants  of  New-Kngland  and  New-York.  Here  were  the 
scenes  of  most  of  the  battles  fought  between  tho  French 
and  English,  and  here  may  be  seen  traces  of  many  of  their 
foitrcsses.  Here  also  were  the  scones  of  many  of  the  later 
military  operations  between  tho  English  and  our  own 
countrymen.  The  traveller  will  more  highly  enjoy  a  jour- 
ney in  any  part  of  this  region,  if  he  prepares  himself  "by  a 
recurrence  to  some  book  of  history  relating  to  it. 

The  French  excited  and  led  the  Indians  against  tho 
English  colonies,  and  committed  numerous  depredations, 
for  mnny  years:  but,  after  many  unsuccessful  attempts, 
were  fmnlly  subdued  in  1759,  by  Gen.  Wolfe.  In  1775 
the  Americans  took  Montreiil  from  the  English,  and  some 
other  pans  of  Lower  Canada:  but  they  \Y,ere  obliged  to 
evacuate  the  country  the  next  year.  In  tlie  war  of"  1812, 
they  made  a  similar  attempt,  but  without  success. 

TnK  VVkstkkn  Lakks.  Ontario  is  180  miles  long,  40 
miles  wide,  500  feet  deep  ;  and  its  surface  is  con.puted  ni 
~18  feet  above  the  elevation  of  tide  water  at  Throe  Ri- 
vers, 270  utiles  below  Capo  Vincent.  It  is  330  feet  below 
Lake  Erie. 

Erie  is  270  miles  long,  60  miles  wide,  200  feet  deep; 
»nd  Its  iurface  is  565  feet  abore  tide  water  at  Albany. 


and 


BATTM   or    8RI1. 


61 


Huron  is  250  miles  lonjr,  100  mil( 


foet 
ti(U 
M 


9  avprncfobrondth,  900 


deep;  and  its  suifuco  is   nearly   595  fed  above'  tho 


W'litrr 
i(rliiirnn  is 


400 


elevation  the  same  as  H 


miles  Inn;^,   50  wide,  depth  unknowi 


I  iron. 


Gieen  Bay  is  about  105  miles  loni(,  20  miles  wide, 
depth  unknown;  elevation  tho  same  as  IJuron  and  Mi- 
chifj;an. 

Lake  Superior  is  459  miles  Ion,?,  109  miles  average 
vyidtn,  OOOleet  deep;  and  its  surface  1048  feet  above  the 
tide  water 

Hence  the  bottom  of  Lake  Erie  is  not  as  low  as  tho  foot 
of  Nnigara  Falls  ;  hut  the  l)ottom  of  each  of  the  oilier  lakes 
U  will  be  observed,  is  lower  than  tlu^  surface  oflho  ocean. 

Luke  Superior  is  the  head  fountain,  the  grand  reservoir 
of  the  mighty  volume.  After  making  a  semicircle  of  five 
degrees  to  the  south,  accommodating  and  enrit^hing  one  of 
tho  most  fertile  and  interesting  sections  of  the  globe  it 
meet^  the  tide  a  distance  of  20U0  miles  from  its  source, 
and  5000  from  the  extreme  point  of  its  estuary,  on  the  At- 
lantic coast. 

Tho  lakes  are  said  to  have  a   periodical  rise  once  in 
twelve  years.     It  occurred  in  1815  and  1827. 

The  Ferry  across  Niagara  river  is  about  half  a  mile  be- 
low the  Falls,  and  may  be  crossed  at  any  hour  in  the  day 
without  danger,  notwithstanding  the  rapidity  of  the  current. 
1  he  descent  from  the  bank  is  so  steep,   that  it  has  been 
necessary  to  huilda  staircase. 

To  Bi'fnlo,  on  the  Canada  side,  28^  miles,  to  Chip- 
pewa  2,_VVuterloo  (Fort  Frio)  10,  (<.ver  tho  ferry  to  Black 
Kock,  Jo  cents  each  passenger,)  to  Burtalo  2^. 

Opposite  BuH'alo,  in  Waterloo,  are  the  remains  o^  Fort 
Erie,  a  fortress  of  great  consequence  in  the  late  war.— 
There  was  a  strong  wall,  surrounded  with  entrenchments 
reaching  to  the  lake.  The  remains  of  the  British  c.imp 
are  also  seen,  and  the  trees  are  still  wounded  with  «hot. 

Battle  of  Kkik.  On  the  17ih  of  September,  1814,  a 
severe  action  was  fought  at  a  little  distance  from  Fort  Erie, 
5mfn  ''•r.''^  ""^^^^  American  garrison,  1000  regulars  and 
JUOO  mihtia,  made  a  sortie,  and  took  the  British  works, 
about  500  yards  in  front  of  their  line.  The  British  had 
two  battenea  on  their  left,  which  annoyed  the  fort,  and 


!^1 


l'!f^ 


m 


k.J! 


Ii: 


r  w  1 


flu 


iATTLi  or  mtt» 


wero  about  opening  a  third.  Their  camp  wa.  about  two 
mUe,  dBtant,  ^heJt.r.dby  a  wood,  their  works  wore  .^r- 
t^soncd  wuh  one  third  of  their  infantry,  from  12  to  1500 
men,  and  a  detachment  of  artillery.  ^-   lo  loW 

rifS"''  ^'"''';^':;^'th  t»u-  volunteers,  Col.  Gib,on  with  the 
riflemen,  and  Ma,.  Jirooks  with  the  S.ld  and  21st  1,'ht 

Jh^S;::^^,;;^  Tft'r""'  ''•""""""■^'  ^^-°  --  ^-- 

tne  txtiemo  left  ot  the  American  position,  by  a  paggaire 
cut  through  the  woods,  towards  the  enem/s  righr  arfd 
Gen  Miller  was  stationed  in  the  mvine  between  the  Ton 
and  the  enemy's  batteries,  while  Gen.  Riploy  had  a  re^ 
serve  under  the  bastions.  ^ 

f},."^  ^'ll'°  1^''^'''*'',  ^  ^'^  ^-  '^"^  '«^t  ««J'^"ins  commenced 
heir  attack  on  the  enemy's  right,  and  Gen.  Mille^at  the 
Bame  time  pushed  forward  betwUn  Nos.  2  and  3  of  the 
ba  tones,  broke  their  line,  and  took  their  two  bio  k 
houses.  Battery  No.  1  was  soon  after  deserL  the 
guns  were  spi  cd,  and  the  magazine  of  No.  3  las  blown 
Tho  n.r*  .  ^  7  T""'  ^^^'"»^»cd,  and  Col.  Gibson  killed. 
Ihe  action  lasted  about  an  hour,  which  gave  time  foi  7)?^ 
remaining  two^thirds   of  the  enemy's  fL^e  to  march  from 

ite  BnTi  h  ^'''"''T'  ^""'"^  succeeded  in  their  object. 

hiond  h.  L  '"".^'"'^  '°  "^"'^'  '^'"''  T^i''"^-  Gen.  Drum- 
h  ond  broke  up  his  camp  on  the  21st,  and  retired  to  hU 
intrenchments  behind  the  Chippewa  River. 

vvanta  Crf et"'  T  ''''  ^'"'''-'T  '''^''  ^"='  "^**^"-  Tona- 
wanta  Creek,  where  the  canal  passes,  11  miles  :   Black 

Rock,  10  miles ;  Buffalo,  2|  miles.  '       ^'^ 

Fon^G^^r^ts.''  "^'"-     ^"--^-"'^   -lesj 

WiE't.T"'''  ^'''?  ^^"^^'^  '"  ^'"^^"y  '^"'l  '^^  Springs 
^111  be  taken  up  alter  the  route  to  Montreal. ]-^See  p.  66. 

ROUTE  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  MONTREAL 

392  miles.  ' 

Those  who  have  never  travelled  through  the  state  of 
New- York  and  have  leisure  to  make  so  circuitous  a 
S-oute,  will  prefer  to  go  to  Buffalo,  Lockport,  or  Roches- 
ter,  and  take  the  line  of  the  railroads  or  Erie  Canal,  the 
aprmgs,  Lake  George,  and  Lake  Champlain,  in  their  w«y 


?^ 


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Sciences 
Corporation 


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23  WEST  MAiN  S^REKT 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4S0;i 


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ROUTE   FROM  IflAGARA   TO   MONTREAL. 


63 


to  Montreal.  Many,  however,  will  prefer  to  take  the  more 
direct  route  which  is  by  the  steamboata  throu<:h  Lake 
Untario,  and  is  performed  in  about  two  days.  The  Ame- 
rican boats  go  from  Fort  Niagara  to  Ogdensbur^h,  keep- 
mg  towards  the  southern  shore,  and  touching  at  ihe  prin- 
cipal  ports.  The  British  boats  make  a  few  stops,^but 
steer  a  course  very  near  the  middle  of  the  lake,  which  is 
the  boundary  between  , he  two  countries  :  they  are  usually 
out  of  sight  of  land  about  twelve  hours 

\.frZ^f  %''''''  ^^  ^i'^^ireal  in  the  American  steam- 
boats,  414  m.h^s  ;  stagecoa.-h  to  Lewiston,  7  m.  ;  steam- 
boat  on  Lake  Ontario  to  Fort  Ningara.  7  -  Genesee  river, 

Itnr  aT  r  J^""^'  ^^l  ^^"'^^"'  28;  Sackett's  Har: 
hour  40  ;  Cape  Vincent,  20 ;  Morristown,  50  ;  Ogdens- 
bmgh  12;  Prescott^  U.  C,  1  ;  Dickinson's  Landing, 
30,  stagecoach  to   Cornwall,   12;    steamboat  to  Coteau 

To  fe  'or^'"^^'*' '"/'^"  Cascades,  16;  steamboat 
to  Lachine.  24  ;  stagecoach  to  Montreal    9 

Do.    British    steamboats,    449  miles';    stagecoach    to 
Lewiston.    7  ;  steamboat  to   Fort   George.  7?    Toronto, 
U.  C.  oO:  I^ort  Hope,  65;  Coburg,  7;  Kingston,   105 
Gananoque.  24;  Brockville,  32;  Pilscotr,  l€ See  above. 

Port  Genesee,  72  miles  at  the  mouth  of  the  Genesee 
Kiver    IS  a  port  of  entry  and  delivery.     Here  are  a  cus- 

cZuv""  t'i  ■  '^^  -^'"^^^  ?f  Chariotte,  in  Monroe 
county.  This  nver  rises  in  Pennsylvania,  and  runs  a 
gently  w^n.lu.g  course  about  125  miles    in    the  state  of 

mouth,  to  Carthage,  where  the  banks  are  hieh.  rocky, 
and  perpendicular;  and  there  is  a  fine  fall  (104  feet  inl 
eluding  the  rapids.  &c.)  about  half  a  mile  above  t'Z. 
coaches  are  m  vvaiting  for  Rochester,  6  miles.  See 
Carttiage,  page  46. 

«.,.^r^^  ^'t\  ^"f  ^^  "^-  H'^'-e  are  three  bays  in 
succession:  Sodus,  Kast.  and  Port  Bays.  There  are 
three  islands  aud  Port  Glascow  is  at  the  head  of  the 
bay,  only  10|  miles  from  Clyde,  on  the  canal,  with  a 
good  road  to  it.  * 

Oswego, ^^  in.  This  village  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  Oswego  River,  and  has  a  good  harbour,  with  10  feet 
water.     Navigation  on  the  river  ends  half  a  mile  above, 

»  The  Old  French  fort  Frontenac,  destroyed  ia  1758. 


I 


m 


i 


i ' » 


r^i   m 


I 


ei 


FORT  O3Wia0. 


except  for  boats,  which  go  12  miles  farther.  A  very 
large  button-wood  tree,  35^  feet  in  circumference,  is 
seen  a  mile  from  the  village  near  the  road.. 

This  place  had  a  rapid  growth.  The  Oswego  Canal 
joins  the  Grie  Canal  at  Salina,  and  will  afford  an  interest- 
ing excursion  either  way.  From  the  head  of  the  falls  to 
the  village,  it  leads  along  the  river's  bank,  prescmng  the 
elevated  level  almost  to  the  brow  of  the  hill  over  the 
lake,  and  then  descends  by  locks.  For  ihe  distance  of  a 
mile,  the  interval  between  the  canal  and  the  river  affords 
the  most  advantageous  situations  for  manufactories  of  vari- 
ous descriptions.  Lake  vessels  can  lie  on  one  side  of  the 
manufactories  and  canal  boats  on  the  other ;  and  Congress 
have  appropriated  money  for  protecting  the  harbour  with 
piers.     The  lake  is  70  miles  wide  opposite  Oswego. 

Fort  Oswego,  so  famous  in  the  history  of  the  Franc 
and  revolutionary  wars,  stands  on  the  east  side  of  the 
river.  The  situation  was  very  advantageous  for  the 
command  of  a  large  extent  of  country,  as  this  river  is 
the  common  outlet  of  all  the  interior  lakes  of  the  state. 
While  this  post  was  held  alternately  by  the  French  and 
English,  they  could  command  a  great  part  of  the  trade 
with  the  Five  Nations  of  Indians,  who  inhabited  the 
country  with  which  it  communicated. 

Fort  Oswego  is  elevated  only  about  50  feet  from  the 
level  of  the  water;  and  being  overlooked  by  the  emi- 
nence on  which  Fort  Ontario  was  afterwards  erected, 
was  fit  only  for  a  defence  in  early  times.  A  trading 
house  was  built  here  in  1722,  and  a  fort  five  years  after. 
This  was  extended  in  the  beginning  of  the  French  war 
of  1755,  when  Fort  Ontario  was  built.  On  the  follow- 
ing year,  General  Montcalm  came  from  Canada,  and 
besieged  the  fortresses  with  3,000  troops,  and  two  vessels. 
Fort  Ontario  was  evacuated  after  one  attack ;  and  on 
the  following  day,  August  14th,  Fort  Oswego  surren- 
dered to  the  French,  with  a  large  quantity  of  stores 
brought  at  great  expense  through  the  wilderness,  and  21 
cannon,  14  mortars,  &c.  also  two  sloops,  and  about  200 
boats.  The  captors,  however,  did  not  think  proper  to 
hold  the  position,  but  immediately  abandoned  it. 

Col.  St.   Leger  attempted  to  approach  Albany  by  this 
route  in   1777,  in  order  to  co-operate    with  Gen.  Bur- 


mar. 


ROUTiS    FROM   NIAGARA    TO   MOMTREAL. 


iiJ 


goyne;  but  he  was  repulsed  at  Fort  Stanwix  by  Col. 

VVilIet,  and  obliged  to  return. 
In   1814,  on  the  6th  of  May,  the  British  attacked  the 

place,  and,  after  a  loss  of  about  100  men,  got  possession 
ot  It,  but  evacuated  it  the  next  day. 

Sackett's  Harbour,  40  m.  Settled  in  1801.  In  the 
late  war,  it  became  an  important  naval  station,  and  in- 
creased very  rapidly  It  is  8  miles  distant  from  the  lake, 
on  Hounslow  Bay.  The  harbour  is  divided  into  two  by  a 
narrow  point,  and  offers  great  advantages  for  ship  buiid- 

MoRRisTOWN  This  is  a  small  village,  10  miles  from 
Ogdensburgh.  The  river  is  a  little  more  than  a  mile  in 
ureadth,and  on  the  opposite  side  is  BrockviUe.  There 
13  a  number  of  rocky  islands  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  and 
the  gentle  slope  of  the  land  on  the  New-York  shore,  add* 
a  great  degree  of  beauty  to  the  scene. 

General  Wilkinson  embarked  at  this  place  in  1813. 

Ogdensburgh,  formerly  Oswegatchie.  This  is  the 
end  ot  the  navigation,  and  here  the  steamboat  stops.  The 
village  IS  pretty,  contains  some  large  stores,  and  carries 
on  considerable  business.  On  the  other  side  of  the  river 
IS  Prescott,  where  the  Brnsh  steamboat  stops.  The 
ruins  of  Fort  Oswegatchie,  or  Fort  Presentation,  may  still 
be  traced.  It  was  not  very  large,  and  contained  only  a 
bomb-proof,  two  buildings  of  stone,  barracks,  &c. 

The  Thousand  Islands  are  a  most  beautiful  part  of 
the  navigation,   presenting  themselves   in   every   variety 
ot  forms,  though  never  rising  to  any  great  elevation.-- 
Ihey  might  be  compared    with    the    islands    of   Lake 
Creorge. 

Gallop  Islands,  5  m.  Here  the  rapids  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  begin.  A  number  of  mills  will  be  seen  at  diffe- 
rent places  on  the  shore.  On  Stony  Island  was  a  fort  of 
some  consequence,  which  was  taken  by  General  Amherst 
on  his  way  to  Montreal,  in  the  year  1760. 

St.  Regis,  54  m.     The  Indian  tribe  which  bears  this 
name  have  a  reservation  of  land  here  11  miles  by  3 

Lachine,  53  m.     (See  Index.) 

MoNTUKAL,  9  m.     (See  do.) 


fi-  .IS 


Vi 


!* 


es 


BUFFALO. 


ROUTE  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  ALBANY. 


i'  Pi' 


Railroad  to  Buffalo  or  to  Lockport. 

Black  Rock  is  a  pleasant  village  situated  on  ths  mar- 
gin of  Niagara  River,  a  little  way  from  its  head,  and  op- 
posite Squaw  Island,   at   the   mouth  of  Lake  Erie.     It 
was  burnt  by  the  British  during  the  war  in  1814,  but  has 
since  been  rebuilt  and  increased  to  a  much  greater  size. 
Black  Rock  long  disputed  with  Buffalo    the   privilege  of 
having  the  Basin  of  the  Canal  built  in  her  harbour,  and  at 
last  obtained  it.     A  pier  about  two  miles  in  length  was 
built  to  secure  ihe  boats  and  vessels  from  the   waves  of 
the  lake,  as  well  as  to  raise  the  water  for  the  supply  of 
the  canal  to  Genesee  River.     But   the  swiftness  of  iho 
current  in  the  river,  and  the  heaping  up  of  the  ice  on  the 
shore,  proved  great  obstacles  to  the  navigation. 

BUFFALO— 3  miles  from  Black  Rock. 

Inns.     The  Eagle  Tavern,  Buffalo  House,  American 
and  City  Hotels. 

The  situation  of  this  town  is  remarkably  convenient 
and  agreeable,  occupying  a  long  hill  of  a  gentle  ascent, 
rising  from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  lake.  The 
principal  street  runs  along  the  ridge  of  the  hill,  looking 
out  upon  L»ke  Erie  to  the  horizon,  and  is  ornamented 
with  several  fine  blocks  of  brick  stores  and  handsome 
dwelling  houses,  together  with  several  public  buildings, 
all  erected  since  the  burning  of  the  village  by  the  British 
in  1814,  as  well  as  the  buildings  in  the  other  streets, 
which  are  fast  increasing  every  year.  In  April,  1814, 
only  one  house  was  standing  in  the  village,  that  of  a  wi- 
dow in  the  upper  part  of  the  street.  A  walk  has  also 
been  laid  out  on  the  brow  of  the  hill  towards  the  lake. 
This  is  called  the  Terrace,  and  affords  a  charming  view 
upon  the  lake,  the  harbour,  and  the  canal,  to  Black 
Rock. 

The  harbour  of  Buffalo  is  singularly  fitted  by  nature 
for  tho  junction  of  the  two  kinds  of  navigation  which  are 


WESTER.V   nOUTES. 


67 


here  brought  together:  the  entrance  from  the  lake  beins 
ehclierea  by  the  point  on  which  the  light  house  is  erec'ed 
and  the  two  small  nvers   which  here%niie  their  wate's 

goods.  The  shores  of  these  are  very  bol.l,  and  ihev  are 
connected  by  a  natural  chaunel,  which  serve  the  purpo  «« 
of  a  bas.n,  as  we  I  as  of  an  easy  communication  ;  and  as 
the  canal  to  Black  Rock  commences  close  by  it,  the  in! 
land  transportation  begins  without  more  ado  Fine 
steamboats  are  constantly  p|yi„g  on  the  lake. 

,hi    .r^^V*' n''^^*'®  "^^'^  "  ^''^"g'^f  '"^o  the  village  from 
above  the  falls,  by  a  canal  3  miles  long  ^ 

1 1.  T^T  '^'"''^  ^°"^'  '^^  ^"g  "^^^  ^he  shore  of  the 
Lake.  The  first  part  of  it  is  through  a  low,  sandy  level 
where  the  excavations  were  much  impeded  by  the  water 
which  soaked  through  in  great  abundance.  About  half 
a  mile  from  Bnffalo,  the  workmen  hit  upon  a  bed  of  old 
half-d.cayed  tn-.es,  which  was  dug  into  to  the  depth  of 
8.x  feet,  and  extended  about  half  I  „iile.  Many  ZlXel 
and  logs  were  discovered,  which  preserved  all  the  grain 

matter,  which,  ..n  being  dried,  burned  with  great  readi- 
ness. In  some  places,  ashes  and  coals  were  found;  and 
eome  of  the  logs  appeared  to  have  been  washed  and  rolled 
by  the  water  of  the  lake  before  they  were  buried. 

VOYAGE  UP  LAKE  ERIE,  AND  WESTERN 

ROUTES. 

At  Buffalo  opens  a  very  extensive  route,  for  those  who 
are  disposed  to  travel  still  farther  westward.  There  is 
little  to  be  seen  along  either  shore  of  the  Lake,  which 
would  reward  a  common  traveller  for  the  tedium  of  a  Ions' 
nde  over  a  country  generally  level,  or  for  the  inconveni- 
ences he  would  experience  from  the  want  of  public  ac- 
commodations,  and  even  the  frequent  absence  of  settle- 
ments. 

Western  Routes.     Two  steamboats  start  daily  for  De- 
troit, Michigan,  311  miles,  and  arrive  in  about  36  hours 
passing  Cattaraugus,  20,  Dunkirk  13,  Portland,  18,  Bur- 
gett  8  Point,  18,  Erie,  17,  Ashtabula,  Ohio,  39,  Fa  rport. 


6B 


WKSTJIRN   BOUTI9. 


i  P     ' 


32,  Cleaveland,  30.  (Herft  begins  the  Ohio  an^  EfW 
Canal  *)  Sandusky  54,  Cunningham's  Island,  12,  North 
Bassldlands,  10,  Middle  Sister  Island,  10,  Amhersiburgh, 
Upper  Canada,  20,  to  Detroit.  18.  (For  tho  routes  west 
from  Detroit,  see  bevond.) 

From  Detroit  to  Chicago.  Railroad  to  Ypsilanti,  38 
miles,  and  either  steamboat  on  Lake  Michigan  to  St.  Jo- 
seph's, 169,  (or  by  land  through  Jonesville,  36,  Cold- 
water,  20,  Sturges'  Prairie,  25,  Mottvrlle  17,  St.  Jo- 
seph's, 40  )  T,.  C       f^l    '       At, 

Or,  by  steamboat  on  Lake  Huron,  River  St.  Clair,  40, 
Palmer,  17,  Fort  Gratiot,  14,  White  Rock,  40,  Thunder 
Island,  70,  Middle  Island,  25,  Presque  Isle,  65,  Macki- 
naw. 68,  Isle  Brul6,  75,  Fort  Howard,  100,  Milwaukie, 
310,  Chicago,  90. 

Or,  by  steamboat,  railroad  and  stage  coaches,  by  steam- 
boat to  Toledo,  71,  railroad  to  Adrian,  33,  stagecoach  to 
Tecumseh,  10  Niles,  100,  Michigan  city,  Indiana,  40, 
steamboat  to  Chicago,  Illinois,  65. 

The  following  are  the  stopping  places  on  the  passage 
to  Detroit,  with  their  distances  ;  and  steamboats  run  al- 
most every  day.     (See  Ohio  Canal,  Index.) 

From  Buffalo  to  Erie,  90  miles,  Erie  to  Grand  River, 
75,  Grand  River  to  Cleaveland,  30,  Cleaveland  to  San- 
dusky, 60,  Sandusky  to  Detroit,  75,  total  330. 

*  Tht  Ohio  and  Erie  Canal,  307  miles  lonj,  extendi  to  PorU- 
nioutli.  It  hns  ihe  breadth  and  depth  of  the  New-Vork  Erie  Ca- 
nal.  nnd  1185  lockage.  From  Cleaveland  U  pastes  37  miles  alonff 
Cuyahoga  river,  across  Portage  summit,  down  Tuscarawas  river 
up  Tomoka  creek,  up  Licking  river  down  theSciota  through  Cir- 
cleville.  nearChillicotlie  to  the  Ohio  to  Portsmouth. 

Distances.  Cleaveland  to  Cuyahoga  Aqueduct  22  miles.  OW 
Portage,  12,  New  Portage,  d.  Clinton.  11,  Belhlehem.  »J.  »<>>•*". 
8.  Dover.  10,  New  Comer's  Town,  26,  Coshocton,  17,  Irville,  -», 
Newark,  13,  Hebron.  10,  Licking  Summit,  5,  Lancaster,  "•("«»;• 
is  a  branch  to  Columbus.  18.)  Bloomfield,  8,  Circleville,  9,  Cbilh- 
cothe.iJS,  Piketon,  23.  Lucasville.  14.  Portsmouth,  13. 

Steamboat  Route  down  the  Ohio  ^nd  m"*^i'P*  S^S^uTr" 
leans.  Porumouth  to  Vanceburgh.  Koutucky,  M,  Manchester, 
Ohio.  16,  Maysville,  Kentucky,  II.  Charlwton,  Ky,  %^*P]*J* 
Oh  o  6  Augusta,  Ky .  8.  Neville,  Ohio, 7,  Moscow,7,  Port  Pleasant, 
i^  N  Richmond,  7,}colambia.  15,  Fulton,  6,  C^ncinnaU.  2,  Lou... 
▼ilU,  Keaiucky,  145,  Mississippi  River, 366,  N«w-Orl«ans,  1284. 


R0UTK8  FROM  NIAGARA  TO  ALBAWT. 


€9 


The  United  States  government  have  improved  several 
«f  these  harbours. 

Anciint  FoRTiriCATioNS.—On  Buffulo  Creek,  and  to- 
warda  Genesee  River  also,  are  several  large  and  interest- 
ing remnants  of  ancient  fortifications :    but  as  they  lie  off 
the  road,  few  travellers  will  visit  them.     They  appear  to 
form  part  of  a  great  chain  of  defensive  works,  extending 
from  the  eastern  part  of  Lake  Ontario,  along  that  Lake  and 
Erie,  down  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Rivers  to  Mexico. 
See  the  books  of  Mr.  Delafield  and  Mr.  Atwator,  who 
have  published   some  very  interesting  details,  drawings, 
&c.  connected  with  them.  A  line  of  old  forts  extends  from 
Cataraugiis  Creek,  50  miles,  along  the  shore  of  Lake  Erie, 
to  the  line  of  Pennsylvania.     They  are  on  the  borders  of 
creeks  and  old  bays,  although  now  from  2  to  5  miles  dis- 
tent from  the  Lake,  which  is  supposed  to  have  retired  that 
distance  sines  they  were  built.     Another  similar  line  is 
said  to  exist  in  the  rear  of  them,  on  another  parallel  eleva- 
tion. 

Seneca  Castle. — The  Seneca  nation  possesa  a  large 
and  valuable  tract  of  land  adjoining  Buffalo  on  the  east, 
and  they  have  two  villages  3  and  5  miles  on  the  road. 
The  <2enecaa  are  the  westernmost  tribe  in  the  confederacy 
of  the  Five  Nations,  and  have  always  held  a  conspicuous 
rank  in  their  history.  They  were  formerly  considered  the 
most  numerous  and  powerful  tribe,  and  preserved  this  su- 
periority until  the  fatal  defeat  they  received  from  General 
Schuyler,  in  1778,  since  which  they  have  made  a  less  con- 
spicuous figure. 

Road  from  Buffalo  to  Canandaigua. 

Batavia,  40  miles  from  Buffalo,  is  a  very  handsome  vil- 
lage, and  contains  the  residence  of  the  former  Agents  of 
the  Holland  Land  Company,  as  well  as  the  county  build- 
ings. It  is  878  feet  above  tide.  The  summit  of  the  rail- 
road  route  between  Buffalo  and  Albany,  is  iust  west  of  this 
place,  912  feet. 

Leroy,  10  miles. 

The  Wadsworth  Farm,  at  Geneseo,  contains  about 
4000  acres,  about  1700  of  which  are  rich  alluvial  land  on 
the  banks  of  Genesee  river. 


■,4l 


1  .! 


VI  "'il 


70 


BURNING  SPRINGS. 


The  CToncsee  moatlows  are  the  whoat  region  of  the  state, 
60  milod  long,  and  1  or  2  milea  wide,  and  composed  of 
limefltone  and  sand.  They  were  formerly  tho  residence  of 
a  largo  tribe  of  Indians  of  the  Seneca  nation ;  and  when 
Gon.  Sullivan  reached  this  place  in  his  march  through  the 
country,  ho  found  and  burnt  a  village  of  120  log  houses, 
on  the  second  bank,  which  had  been  deserted  at  his  ap- 
proach. 

The  remains  of  a  Mammoth  wem  dug  up  about  half  a 
mile  from  the  village  of  Geneseo  in  1825.  There  were  8 
teeth  and  grinder;*,  parts  of  a  tusk,  a  thigh  bone  3  feet  long, 
the  lower  bone  of  the  leg,  3  feet  6  inches,  &c.  They  lay 
between  strata  of  vegetable  mould  and  sand. 

West  Bloomfield,  beyond  the  Genesee  River,  is  one 
of  the  fine.st  agricultural  townships  in  the  state,  and  pre- 
sents a  succession  of  beautiful  farms,  tilled  with  care  and 
yielding  the  finest  crops.  Fruit  thrives  remarkably  well 
in  all  this  western  country.  The  prevaili.ng  winds  are  south 
west,  and  the  climate  mild  and  uniform.  Wheat  some- 
times yields  52  bushels  to  the  acre. 

East  Bloomfield  is  the  next  village. 

Canandaigua.  This  is  one  of  the  finest  western  towns, 
and  its  principal  street  runs  along  the  ridge  of  a  command- 
ing hill,  rising  from  the  north  end  of  Canandaigua  Lake. 
It  is  wide,  and  contains  an  Academy,  and  many  handsome 
houses.  The  road  in  passing  Canandaigua  Lake,  com- 
mands a  finer  view  than  on  any  of  the  other  lakes  it  passes, 
except  Skeneateles.  The  banks  are  high  and  variegated, 
and  at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  miles,  rise  to  an  imposing 
height,  and  add  a  great  degree  of  beauty  to  the  scene.  A 
number  of  gentlemen's  seats  are  seen  along  the  western 
bank ;  and  a  little  way  off  in  the  lake  on  the  same  side,  is 
a  small  rocky  island,  where  the  Seneca  Lidians  carried  all 
their  women,  children,  and  old  men,  when  Gen.  Sullivan 
appeared  against  them. 

Ruilrjad  cars  go  to  Rochester  and  to  Batavia  every  day. 
Burning  Springs.     Springs  of  water,  charged  with 
inflammable  gas,  are  quite  common  in  Bristol,  Middlesex, 
and  Canandaigua. 

The  gas  from  the  former  rises  through  fissures  of  the 
filate,  from  both  the  margin  and  the  bed  of  the  brook. 
Their  places  are  known  by  little  hillocks  of  a  few  feet 


noUTE  ritOM  NIAGARA  TO  AtUlffr. 


71 


in  diameter,  and  a  few  inches  high,  formed  of  a  dark  bitu- 
minous mould,  through  which  it  finds  its  way  to  the  sur- 
foce,  in  one  or  more  currents  Thoi^c  currents  of  gas  may 
be  set  on  fire,  and  will  burn  with  a  steady  flame.  In  win- 
ter they  form  openings  through  the  snow,  and  being  set 
on  fire,  exhibit  the  novel  and  interesting  phenomenon  of  a 
steady  and  lively  flame  in  contact  with  nothing  but  snow. 
In  very  cold  weather,  it  is  said,  tubes  of  ice  are  formed 
tound  tl.ese  cui-ronts  of  gos,  (probably  from  the  freezing 
of  the  Wa^«r  contained  in  it,)  which  sometimes  rise  to  the 
height  of  two  or  three  feet,  the  gas  issuing  from  their 
tops;  the  whole  when  lighted  in  a  still  evening,  present- 
ing an  appearance  even  more  beautiful  tlmn  the  former. 

From  a  pit  which  was  sunk  in  one  of  the  hillocks,  the  go§ 
vras  conducted  through  bored  logA,  to  the  kitchen  of  a 
dwelling.  The  novelty  of  the  spectacle  attracted  a  con- 
Course  of  visiters,  so  great  that  the  proprietors  found  it 
expedient  to  convert  their  dwelling  into  a  public  inn. 

The  road  between  Canandaigua  and  Geneva  passes  ovef 
tt  singular  tract  of   country.    I'he  ground  gradually  rises 
by  large  natural  terraces,  or  steps,  for  about  half  the  dis- 
tance, and  descends  in  the  same  manner  on  the  other  side 
to  Seneca  Lake.     They  appear  to  have  been  formed  by 
those  strong  currents  of  water  of  which  geologists  speak, 
Which  at  some  ancient   period    of  time  have  evidently 
passed  over  many  tracts  of  country  in  different  parts  of 
the  world.     The  ridges  and  channels  thus  formed  here 
stretch  north  and  south,  frequently  to  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, corresponding  both  in  form  and  direction  with  the 
numerous  lakes  which  are  found  in  this  part  of  the  state. 
Several  ancient  fortifications   have  been  traced  here.— 
From  the  middle  ridge  the  view  is  extensive,  but  the  sur- 
rounding country  is  of  too  uniform  a  surface  to  present 
any  remarkakle  variety  of  scenery. 

Geneva.  This  town  occupies  a  charming  situation 
at  the  foot  of  Seneca  Lake,  and  for  a  mile  along  its 
ttrestern  bank,  which  rises  to  a  considerable  elevation 
above  the  surface,  and  affords  room  for  a  broad  and  level 
street.  The  buildings  in  this  village  are  remarkably  neat 
and  handsome,  and  it  has  a  college. 

Seneca  Lake  is  :J5  miles  long,  and  about  3  or  4  wide. 
Its  depth  is  unusually  great,  aod  the  water  clear  and  very 

7* 


M 


m 


m 


n 


AUBDRH. 


I    .. 


cold,  to  which  is  nttrlbutod  the  scarrity  of  fish.  Thoro  is 
a  romarkublo  plionomfnon  Uma;  obsorvod  by  those  who 
reside  nonrit,  which  has  never  been  sulisfuctorily  itccount- 
cd  tor.  TiiH  water  has  a  regular  riae  and  full  every  seven 
years.  This  is  perceptible  alon;^  the  shore,  but  more  prac- 
tically established  in  the  experience  of  the  boatmen. 

Cayuga  Laks.  is  40  miles  in  length,  and  generally 
about  two  in  breadth.  A  fine  bridge  is  built  across  it  near 
the  northern  end,  where  it  is  a  mile  wide. 

A  little  before  arriving  at  the  bend  of  the  lake,  in  a  steam- 
boat, a  beautiful  Waterfall  is  seen  on  the  left  hand,  where 
a  stream  flows  over  a  very  high  precipice  into  a  deep 
glen,  and  foices  its  way  along,  turning  several  valuable 
mills  in  its  course.  The  landing  place  is  about  three 
miles  from  the  village  of  Ithaca. 

The  village  of  Itiiaca  is  neat  and  flourishing.  Here 
centre  the  roads  to  Catskill,  Netoburgh  and  New- York. 
The  first  leads  nearly  in  a  direct  line  to  the  Hudson  River, 
iho  second  passes  the  Great  Bend  of  the  Delaware,  and 
the  third  furnishes  daily  the  shortest  route  to  New-York. 

The  Cascade.  This  beautiful  and  romantic  scene  is 
about  three  miles  from  the   village. 

Auburn  is  another  beautiful  village,  artd  merits  the 
name  it  has  borrowed  from  Goldsmith's  charming  iioetry. 
It  is  unfortunately  placed  at  some  distance  from  Oswego 
Lake,  and  therefore  is  deprived  of  the  picturesque  charac- 
ter which  it  might  have  enjoyed.  There  ia  a  Presbyte- 
rian Theological  Seminary  in  Auburn,  and  several  hand- 
some public  buildings  in  this  place,  but  the  most  important 
is  the 

State  Prison.  This  institution,  having  been  managed 
by  Mr.  Lynds,  and  the  first  established  on  his  system  so 
excellent,  so  celebrated,  and  with  remarkable  success, 
merits  particular  notice.  Many  of  the  new  prisons  in  the 
United  States  are  built  after  this  general  plan,  which  is 
also  much  approved  in  Europe. 

*' The  old  Auburn  prison  was  built  in  1817,  and  cost 
about  $300,000.  It  was  constructed  upon  the  plan  of  a 
hollow  square,  enclosed  by  a  wall  of  2000  feet  in  extent, 
being  500  feet  on  each  side,  and,  for  the  most  part,  35  feet 
in  height. 

"  The  new  one,  designed  to  contain  400  qells,  covers  only 
206  by  46  feet  of  ground.    There  are  five  itones  of  cells, 


nOUTI   FROM   NIAGARA  TO   ALBANY. 


73 


«ach  containing  eighty  in  two  parallel  lines,  divided  in  the 
middle  by  a  wall  two  feet  thick.  The  walls  between  the 
colls  are  one  foot  thick.  The  colls  are  seven  feet  long, 
seven  high,  and  throe  and  a  half  wide,  intended  to  receive 
only  one  convict  in  each.  Each  cell  has  a  ventilator  ex- 
tending to  the  roof,  and  is  so  constructed  in  front,  that  the 
prisoners  can  neither  converse  or  mako  signs  to  each 
other.  The  area  around  the  colls  is  10  feet  wide  and 
open  to  the  roof,  which  covers  the  galleries  of  the  several 
Btories.  Besides  the  moral  benefit  arising  from  keeping 
the  prisoners  separate,  it  unites  that  of  economy  and  secu- 
rity, p'rom  the  construction  of  tho  prison,  five  small 
stoves,  six  large  and  twelve  small  lamps,  all  out  of  reach 
of  the  convicts,  afford  heat  and  light  to  555  cells ;  and  one 
centinelis  sufficient  to  400  prisoners." 

Ancient  Fortijications.  There  aro  some  remains  of 
ancient  fortifications  in  tho  vicinity  of  this  place,  as  well 
as  in  the  neighbouring  towns  of  Camillus,  Onondaga,  and 
Pompey. 

From  Auburn  to  Syracuse,  hy  the  Canal,  34  milea. 
(Stagecoach  to  Weed's  Bfisin,)  8  miles;  .Jordan  Village, 
in  Camillus  township,  6  ;  CanUm,  (half-way  village  be- 
tween Buffalo  and  Albanj-,  179  miles  from  the  former, 
and  183  from  the  latter,)  6  ;  Geddes  Village,  (with  salt 
works,)  12;  Syracuse,  2. 

By  the  Road,  28  miles.  Skeneateles,  8 ;  Marcellus, 
6 ;  Onondaga,  10  ;  Syracuse,  4. 

Syhacusk.  For  a  description  of  this  place,  as  well  as 
of  Salina,  the  Salt  Spring,  and  Salt  Manufactories,  see 
page  42,  &c.     About  3,000,000  bushels  of  salt  made  yearly. 

From  Syracusk  to  Utica.  Bijthe  Canal,6l  miles. 
Manlius  Landing,*  9  miles;  Chitteningo  Creek,  3  ;  Canas- 
tota  Village  and  basin,  8  ;  Oneida  Creek,  5  ;  Wood  Creek, 
13;  Rome,  3;  Oriskany  Village,  8;  Whitesborough,  3; 
Utica,  4. 

By  the  Road.  48  miles  Dome,  3  miles;  Manliu?,  3; 
Sullivan,  9;  Vernon,  11;  Westmoreland,  6 ;  New  Hart- 
ford, 7  ;  Utica,  4. 

For  Utica,  Hamilton  College,  and  Trenton  Fallt^ 
see  page  38. 

*  About  20  yurUs  from  the  canal,  Gjpsum  (pltstar  of  ParU)  if 
obtained  io  mastcs  of  from  1  to  100  ton*. 


kk.iil 


74 


STILLWATER. 


ip' 


'■i 


I'l     i 


From  Uiica  to  Schenectady,  by  the  Canal  1^1^  miteff 
Iiock,  No.  53,  (end  of  the  long  level,  which  begins  west' 
ward  at  Salina,  and  extends  to  this  place,  69^  miles,  with" 
out  a  lock,)  9  miiesf  Bridge  over  the  Mohawk,  and  Her' 
kimer  Village,  5 ;  Little  Falb,  8 ;  Fall  Hill,  a  mountain 
on  the  right,  518  feet  higher  than  the  canal,  712  above 
high  water  in  the  Hudson  River,  and  about  145  abovc^ 
Lake  Erie,  1;  Old  Mohawk  Castle,  5;  Fort  Plain,  9J  f 
•^  ..lajoharie,  4  ;  a  railway  has  been  proposed  to  run  hence 
to  Catskill,  60;  Anthony's  Nose,  5-;  (this  scene  ia  reprc 
sented  in  the  plate  from  this  side — the  bluff'  on  the  right 
if*  Anthony's  Nose,  on  the  ti>p  of  which  a  remarkable 
cavern  opens,  extending  further  down  than  it  has  ever 
been  explored)  ;  Schoharie  Creek,  11  j  Amsterdam  Vil- 
lage, (across  the  river,)  5;  Flint  HiU,  6  ;■  Rotterdam  Flats, 
8 ;  Schenectady,  3. 

Road  *o  Albany,  15^  milea. 

ROUTE  FROM  ALBANY  TO  THE  SPRINGS, 

Waterford  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson/ 
across  which  is  a  bridge,  Lansingbnrgh  stands  opposite^ 
and  is  a  place  of  considerable  size.  The  streets  of  Water- 
ford  are  wide,  r'^gular,  and  handsomely  built.  Some  of 
the  private  houses  are  remarkable  for  their  neatnr?s* 
There  are  numerous  rocky  islands  with  precipitous  gides/ 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk  River,  which  are  seen  at  ^ 
little  distance  below  the  bridge.  To  these,  the  American 
army,  under  Gen.  Schuyler,  retreated  in  1777,  befoi'e  Gen, 
Burgoyne,  and  before  the  battle  of  Saratoga.  The  boatif 
on  the  Ciiamplain  Canal  enter  the  Mohawk  in  full  view 
of  ihem,  through  guard  locks,  and  are  poled  across,  ther 
current  being  stopped  by  a  dam,  Waterford  is  21J  mile* 
frori  Ballstou  Springs,  and  24  to  Saratoga,  by  railroad. 

Stillwater  is  11^  miles  above  Waterfoul ;  and  4 
miles  beyond  that  place  is  Smith's  Tavern,  where  those 
will  stop  who  visit  the  battle  grcnd,  at  Behmia's 
Heights. 

Although  the  great  crowd  of  travellers  on  this  t&o^^ 
will  take  the  road  to  Balls  on  or  Saratoga,  yet  as  tlwy 
will  ftad  few  objects  of  any  interest,  k  may  be  proper  io 


'J, 


ROUTE   TO  THE   SPRIKGS. 


75 


introduce,  in  this  place,  an  account  of  the  expedition  of 
Gen.  Burgoyne,  and  the  battle  of  Behmis's  Heighte,  often 
known  by  the  name  of  the  battle  of  Saratoga,  as  we  are 
within  a  few  miles  of  the  field. 

»  Stillwaier  takes  its  name  from  the  smoothness  and 
quietness  of  the  Hudson. 

Tlie  first  battle  within  this  region,  of  which  history 
gives  any  account,  was  fought  between  the  French  and 
the  Five  Nations  of  Indians,  soon  after  the  settlement  of 
Canada,  when  the  latter  first  learned  the  terrible  effect  of 
gunpowder,  and  began  to  flee  from  the  approach  of  civil- 
ization. In  the  numerous  expeditions  which  at  sub- 
sequent periods  were  undertaken  by  the  British  against 
Canada,  this  route  was  taken  in  the  attack,  and  not  un- 
frequently  m  the  retreat.  The  revolution  and  the  last 
war  with  England,  produced  scenes  which  will  be  touched 
upon  in  their  places. 

The  first  period  to  which  we  shall  refer,  is  that  of  the 
revolution  ;  and  the  first  scene  that  of  the  battle  of  Sa- 
ratoga, or  Behmis's  Heights,  towards  which  we  are  fast 
approaching. 

"  I  could  here,"  says  Dr.  Dwight,  "  almost  forget  that 
Arnold  became  a  traitor  to  his  country,  and  satisfy  my- 
self with  recollecting,  that  to  his  invincible  gallantry, 
and  that  of  the  brave  officers  and  soldiers  whom  he  led, 
my  country  was,  under  Ood,  indebted  in  a  prime  degree, 
for  her  independonce,  and  all  its  consequent  blessings.  I 
should  think  that  an  American,  peculiarly  an  inhabitant 
of  Nevy-England  or  New-York,  little  to  be  envied,  whose 
patriotism  did  not  gain  force  upon  the  heights  of  Still- 
water, or  the  plains  of  Saratoga.  These  scenes  I  have 
examined:  the  former  with  solemnity  and  awe,  the  latter 
with  ardour  and  admiration,  and  both  with  enthusiasm 
and  rapture.  Here  I  have  remembered  ;  and  here  it  was 
impossible  not  to  remember,  that  on  this  very  spot  a  con- 
troversy was  decided  upon  which  hung  the  liberty  and 
happiness  of  a  nation  destined  one  day  to  fill  a  continent ; 
and  of  its  descendants,  who  will  probably  hereafter  out- 
number the  inhabitants  of  Europe." 


'ti'i 


u 


76 


BURGOrWK's   EXPBDITIOK. 


b  ■ 


» 


1 

IJ  -ii 


Burgoyne's  Expedition.     General  Burgoyne*  W8» 
appointed  Governor  of  Canada  in   1777,  to  succeed  Sir 

*  General  Burgoyne  —(From  an  English  }Fork.)— It  is  curious, 
that  a  man  of  such  celebrity  as  a  writer,  a  senutor,  and  an  offt- 
cer,  as  the  lute  Lieut  John  Burgoyne,  should  be  found  anonff  the 
number  of  those  of  whose  youtliful  days  no  memorial  has  beea 
preserved.  Neither  the  time,  plai  e,  nor  circumstances  of  bis  liirtb 
are  known.  Even  hii*  piirentage  is  doubtful.  He  is  said,  but  upon 
what  authority  it  does  not  appear,  to  have  been  a  natural  sob.  of 
that  Lord  Uiiigly,  who  dred  al  an  advanced  at'e  in  1774.  1  hat  he 
had  the  advuutnge  of  u  liberal  education  and  early  intercourse 
with  polished  sociafy,  is  sufficiently  evident  from  his  writings ;  and 
it  is  |)ro!)able  ihat  be  was  eurly  devoted  to  the  profrasioa  of  arms, 
for  oil  the  lOlh  of  Way,  1759,  ho  was  raised  to  the  rank  of  Lteut. 
Cidonel,  and  in  August  of  the  ensuing  year,  be  wus  appointed 
Lieut.  Col.  Commnndantof  the  16th  Light  Dragoons.  His  after 
services  at  different  periods,  in  Spain,  Portugal,  and  America,  are 
all  well  known,  especially  the  unforiunaie  terminntiou  of  his  mi- 
litary career  at  Saratoga,  which,  though  it  tarnished  no!  bis  ho- 
nour, cast  a  shade  over  his  brow, ever  afterward  conspicuous  to  th» 
physiognomical  eye.  He  made,  oq  certain  occasions,  no  ordinary 
figure  ill  Farliumeiit.  Ho  moved  in  the  first  circles,  and  married 
Lady  Charlotte  Stanley,  a  daughter  of  the  Ear!  of  Derby  i  and 
yet  we  know  not  who  and  what  he  originally  was.  He  was  the 
author  of  four  successful  dramas  :  the  Maid  of  the  Oak,  the  Lord 
of  the  Manor,  Rjchard  Cceur  de  Lion,  and  the  comedy  of  the 
Heiress  ;  and  yet  the  curiosity  of  hw  biographer,  even  in  this 
Ruecdote-deuliiig  and  memoir-sifting  age,  cannot  trace  his  origii» 
or  the  scones  of  his  education.  The  lale  of  the  Lord  of  the  Ma- 
nor si'cms,  it:  some  degree,  to  have  been  disguised  in  the  modifica- 
tion of  the  character  and  circumaanees  by  the  incident  of  his  owu 
matriiiiouial  connexion :  for  his  was  a  clandestine  and  unauthor.2- 
ed  marriage,  at  a  time  when  he  held  only  asnhallenrs  commission 
Ml  the  army  ;  and  is  said  to  have  excited  at  first  the  resentment  of 
the  lady's  father  to  such  a  degree,  that  he  declared  his  resolution 
EJver  to  admit  the  offeitilers  into  his  presence,  though  in  proces» 
of  time,  the  anger  of  the  Elarl  subsided,  a  reconciliation  wasefifect- 
ed,  and  was  succeeded  by  a  warm  and  lasting  attaehment.  It  i» 
probable,  also,  that  the  memory  of  his  lady,  who  died  in  1776,  al 
Kensington  Polace,  during  his  absence  in  America,  is  embalmed 
by  th>^  affectionate  regrets  of  the  Greneral,  in  that  beautiful ais  o£ 
bis  compositiou : 

"  Encompassed  in  an  angers  frame, 

An  nugel's  virtues  l^y  -y. 
Too  soon  did  heaven  assert  the  claim» 

And  call  its  own  away. 

Jly  Anna's  worth,  my  Anna's  charms, 

Must  never  more  return  ' 
What  now  shall  fill  theso  widow'd  axinc^ 

Ah  me  1  my  Anna's  iira  l" 


ROUTB   TO   THE   SPRINGS. 


77 


Ouy  Carlton.  He  arrived  at  Quebec  in  May,  and  reach- 
ed Crown  Point,  Juno  20ih.  General  Phillips  was  sent 
to  Ticonderoga  with  the  British  right  wing;  and  ihe  out- 
posts and  the  fort  were  successively  abandoned  by  the 
Americans  The  news  of  the  evacuation  of  this  place 
was  a  most  disheartening  piece  of  intelligence  to  the 
country. 

During  his  delay,  General  Schuyler  obstructed  the 
channel  of  Wood  Creek,  removed  every  thing  valuable 
from  the  country,  and  took  the  si  ores  from  Fort  George 
to  Fort  Edward  ;  sending  for  regular  troops,  and  calling 
fof  the  militia  of  the  neighbouring  slates,  both  which 
were  supplied.  General  Arnold  and  Colonel  Morgan 
joined  him  with  a  body  of  riflemen,  and  General  Lincoln 
with  the  New-England  miliiia;  and  he  fell  back  to  Sara- 
toga, to  Stillwater,  and  finally  to  the  islands  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Mohawk. 

fixTTLG  OP  Bennington.  Being  in  want  of  provi- 
sions. General  Burgoyne  had  despatched  Lt.  Col.  Baum 
with  his  Hessians,  to  seize  the  public  stores  at  Benning- 
ton. He  was  supported  by  Lt.  Col.  Brechman,  who 
stepped  at  Baten  Kill.  Brig.  Gen.  Stark  with  the  New- 
Hampshire  troops,  joined  by  Col.  Warner,  attacked  Col. 
Baum  at  the  Wallomsack  River,  where  they  were  en- 
camped, July  I6th,  (1777,)  and  in  two  hours,  forced  their 
works,  and  completely  defeated  them.  Colonel  Warner 
began  the  attack  on  Col.  Brechman,  wounded  him  mor- 
tally, took  him  prisoner,  and  put  his  troops  to  flight. 

226  of  the  British  troops  were  killed  at  the  battle  of 
Bennington,  or  rather  the  battle  of  Hoosac,  as  it  was 
fought  in  that  town.  700  soldiers  were  taken  prisoners, 
and  36  officers. 

Gen.  Gates  no'.v  received  the  command  of  the  American 
troops,  which  had  been  greatly  re-enforced  ;  and  took  a 
position  on  Behmis's  Heights,  a  ridge  of  elevated  ground, 
beginning  on  the  left,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  ri- 
ver, and  stretching  off  towards  the  northwest,  which  of- 
fered great  advantages  for  the  defence  of  the  road. 

Gen.  Gates'  Camp  was  about  half  a  mile  from  the  road 
on  the  left,  and  his  quarters  were  in  a  house  which  was  yet 
standing  when  the  author  visited  the  ipot.    A  bye-road 


Si 


\  ^ 


V 


'1\ 

till 

1 

1 


78 


BATTLK   or  SARATOGAS. 


leads  to  the  place,  and  the  old  intrenchmcnts,  and  after-' 
wards  you  may  proceed  along  the  heights,  which  were  oc- 
cupied by  the  American  troops.  By  making  a  considerable 
circuit,  by  a  road  in  some  places  rough,  you  may  ride  over 
the  encampment  and  the  scenes  of  the  two  battles,  and 
then  coR^e  back  to  the  river  at  Smith's  little  tavern,  S 
miles  above  this  place,  or  cross  over  to  the  Springs.  The 
space  between  the  river  and  the  hill  was  crossed  by  a  deep 
intrenchment  defended  with  artillery,  and  almost  impracti- 
cable. 

The  American  Linzs,  three-quarters  of  a  mile  long, 
were  furnished  with  a  breast  work  of  logs,  (the  hills  being 
almost  entirely  a  forest,)  and  the  left  terminated  opposite 
the  enemy's  right.  From  the  left  almost  to  the  centre,  the 
ground  is  level,  and  was  partly  cleared,  yet  much  encum- 
bered with  fallen  and  girdled  trees.  An  opening,  left  of 
the  centre,  had  a  battery — thence  a  ravine  ran  to  the  right. 
The  British  Lines,  stretched  from  a  hill  opposite  the 
American  left,  in  a  straight  line  across  the  meadow  to  the 
Hudson  River.  The  enemy  moved  forward,  and  encamp- 
ed in  two  lines,  about  two  miles  from  Gen.  Gates ;  his  left 
on  the  river,  and  his  right  extending  at  right  angles  to  it, 
across  the  low  grounds  about  six  hundred  yards,  to  the 
lofty  heights  occupied  by  his  elite,  having  a  creek  or  gul- 
ley  in  his  front,  made  by  a  rivulet  which  issued  from  a 
great  ravine,  formed  by  the  hills,  which  ran  in  a  direction 
nearly  parallel  to  the  river,  until  within  half  a  mile  of  the 
American  camp. 

The  Northern  or  Champlain  canal,  and  the  coach  road, 
now  cross  the  ground  occupied  by  the  American  right,  and 
soon  afterwards  that  occupied  by  the  British  lines. 

The  Battle  Ground  is  on  an  elevated  plain,  about 
two  miles  above  General  Gates'  camp,  and  the  same  dis- 
tance west  from  Smith's  tavern.  It  may  be  taken  in  the 
way  from,  the  Springs,  but  it  is  better  to  go  first  to  Smith's 
for  a  guide,  nnd  to  take  or  prepare  for  refreshment.  From 
Smith's  to  the  battle  ground,  the  road  is  quite  romantic, 
along  the  south  side  of  Cumminskill,  with  a  steep  bank  on 
each  side  for  a  part  of  the  distance.  Here  Burgoyne 
marched  up  to  extend  his  right,  and  turn  the  American  left. 
The  open  ground  at  tha  end  it  the  field  of  battle. 


1'! 


RUtlE    TO    THi;    iil'UINGS. 


'9 


The  most  severe  fighting  in  the  first  battle,  was  at  a  lit- 
tle knoll,  in  a  field  on  the  south. 

Battle  of  Sept.  IDih.— In  the  morning-,  it  was  re- 
ported by  Col.  Colburn,  who  was  watching  the  enemy,  that 
they  were  beginning  to  ascend  the  hill  towards  the  Ameri- 
can left.  Gen.  Gates  sent  Col.  iMorgan  to  oppose  them, 
and  the  firing  began  about  noon.  'Ihe  action  extended, 
and  in  three  hours  was  general,  and  continued  without  in- 
terruption till  dark.  The  American  troops  engaged 
amounted  to  3000 ;  the  British  to  3500.  The  following 
account  is  from  General  Wilkinson. 

"  This  battle  was  perfectly  accidental ;  Burgoyne's  move- 
ment being  merply  to  take  ground  on  the  heights  in  front 
of  the  great  ravine,  and  on  our  side,  the  defences  of  our 
camp  being  not  half  completed,  and  re-enforcements  daily 
arriving,  it  was  not  General  Gates'  policy  to  court  an  ac- 
tion.    The  misconception  of  the  adverse  chiefs  put  them 
on  the  defensive,  and  confined  them  to  the  ground  they 
casually  occupied  at  the  beginning  of  the  action,  and  pre- 
vented  a  single  manoeuvre,  during  one  of  the   longest, 
warmest,  and  most  obstinate  battles  fought  in  America. 
Gen.  Gates  believed  that  his  antagonist  intended  to  attack 
him,  and  circumstances  appeared  to  justify  the  like  con- 
clusion on  the  part  of  Burgoyne;  and  as  the  thickness  and 
depth  of  the  intervening  wood  concealed  the  position  and 
movements  of  either  army  from  its  adversary,  sound  cau- 
tion obliged  the  respective  commanders  to  guard  every  as- 
sailable point;  thus  the  flower  of  the  British  army,  the 
grenadiers  and  light  infantry,  one  thousand  five  hundred 
strong,  were  posted  on  an  eminence  to  cover  its  right,  and 
stood  by  their  arms,  inactive  spectators  of  the  conflict,  un- 
til near  sunset ;  while  Gen.  Gates  was  obliged  to  keep  hia 
right  wing  on  post,  to  prevent  the  enemy  from  forcing  that 
flank,  by  the  plain  bordering  on  the  river.     Had  either  of 
the  generals  been  properly  apprised  of  the  dispositions  of 
his  antagonist,  a  serious  blow  might  have  been  slruci:  on 
our  left,  or  the  enemy's  right ;  but  although  nothing  is  more 
common,  it  is  as  illiberal  as  it  is  unjust,  to  determine  the 
merits  of  militaiy  operations  by  c"  enls  exclusively.    It  was 
not  without  experience  that  the  .\  ..mans  erected  temples 
to  Fortune.     Later  times  might  afford  motives  for  edifices, 
in  which  Genius  or  Wisdom  would  haw  no  votaries." 

8 


i     1  i^J 


•  a, 


1: 


m 


J 


80 


BATTLJC   or   SARATOfiA. 


4; 


!'., 


H' 


Battle  of  October  8th.     General  Wilkinson  gives  ther 
following  description  of  this  battle  : — 

"  The  mcmy  were  formed  across  a  new  cultivated  field, 
their  grenadiers  with  several  field  pieces  on  the  left,  bor- 
dering on  a  wood,  and  a  small  ravine  formed  by  the  rivu- 
let before  alluded  to ;  their  light  infantry  on  the  right, 
covered  by  a  worm  fence  at  the  foot  of  tl»c  liill  before 
mentioned,  thickly  covered  with  wood  ;  their  centre  com- 
posed of  British  and  German  battalions.     Col.  Morgan, 
■with  his  usual  sagacity,  proposed  to  make  a  circuit  with 
his  corps  by  our  left,  and  under  cover  of  the  wood  to  gain 
the  height  on  the  right  of  the  enemy,  and  from  thence 
commence  his  attack,  so  soon  as  our  fire  should  be  opened 
against  their  left ;  the  plan  was  the  best  which  could  be 
devised,    and    no   doubt  contributed  essentially    to  the 
prompt  and  decisive  victory  we  gained." 

"  This  proposition  was  approved  by  the  General,  and  it 
■was  concerted  that  time  should  be  allowed  the  Colonel  to 
make  the   proposed  circuit,  and  gain  his  station  on  the 
enemy's  right  before  the  attack  should  be  made  on  their 
left:  Poor's  brigade  was  ordered  for  this  service,  and  tho 
attack  was  commenced  in  due  season  on   the  flank  and 
front  of  tho  British  grenadiers,  by  tho  New-Hampshire 
and  New- York  troops.     True  to  his  purpose,  Morgan,  at 
this  critical  moment,  poured  down  like  a  torrent  from  tho 
hill,  and  attacked  the  right  of  the  enemy  in  front  and  flank. 
Dearborn,  at  the  moment  when  the  enemy's  light  infantiy 
were  attempting  to  change  front,  pressed  forward  ■with 
ardour,  and  delivered  a  close  fire ;  then  leaped  the  fence, 
shouted,  charged,  and  gallantly  forced  them  to  retire  in 
disorder;  yet  headed  by   that  intrepid  soldier  the  F.arl  of 
Balcarras,  they  were  immediately  rallied,   and  re-formed 
behind  a  fence  in  rear  of  their  first  position ;  but  being 
now  attacked  with  great  audacity  in  front  and  flanks  by 
superior  numbers,  resistance  became  vain,  and  the  whole 
line,  commanded  by  Burgoyne  in  person,  gave  way,  and 
made  a  precipitate  and  disorderly  retreat  to  his  camp, 
leaving  2  twelve,  and  6  six  pounders  on  the  field,  with 
the  loss  of  more  than  400  officers  and  men,  killed,  wound- 
ed, and  captured,  and,  among  them,  the  flower  of  his  oflS- 
cers,  viz  : — Brigadier  General  Frazer,  Major  Ackland, 
commanding  the  grenadiers,  Sir  Francis  Clark,  \m  first 


ROUTE   TO   THE   srRlNGS. 


81 


«iid-(le-camp,  Major  Williams,  commanding^  officer  oftho 
artillery,  Captain  Money,  deputy  quartermaster  general, 
and  many  others.**  The  ground  which  had  been  occupied 
by  the  British  grenadiers  presented  a  scene  of  complicated 
horror  and  exultation.  In  the  square  space  of  twelve  or 
fifteen  yards  lay  eighteen  grenadiers  in  the  agonies  of 
death,  and  three  officers  propt  up  against  stumps  of  trees, 
two  of  them  mortally  wounded,  bleeding,  and  almost 
speechless. 

"With  the  troops  I  pursued  the  hard  pressed  flying  entt- 
my,  passing  over  killed  and  wounded  until  I  heard  one 
exclaim,  "protect  me,  Sir,  against  this  boy."  Turning 
my  eyes,  it  was  my  fortune  to  arrest  the  purpose  of  a  laid 
thirteen  or  fourteen  years  old,  in  the  act  of  taking  aim  at 
a  wounded  officer  who  lay  in  the  angle  of  a  worm  fence. 
Inquiring  his  rank,  he  answered,  "  I  had  the  honour  to 
command  the  grenadiers;"  of  course,  I  knew  him  to  bo 
Major  Ackland,  who  had  been  brought  from  the  field  to 
this  place,  on  the  back  of  a  captain  Shrimpton  of  his  own 
corps,  under  a  hea\  y  fire,  and  was  here  deposited,  to  save 
the  lives  of  both." 

Quarters  of  General  Burgoyne.  The  house  now 
stands  by  the  road  side,  but  the  place  where  it  then  was 
is  a  spot  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  about  200  yards  from 
the  river.  The  cellar  is  still  to  be  seen,  in  a  field  near  an 
apple  tree,  a  little  north  of  the  road  that  crosses  the 
canal.  Willard's  mountain  is  an  eminence  a  few  miles 
off,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  During  the  last 
battle,  the  Americans  had  a  few  cannon  on  the  rising 
ground  above  the  eastern  shore,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  abovo 
Smith's,  and  thence  proceeded  the  shot  of  which  the  Ba- 
roness Reidt'sel  speaks.  Several  ladies  of  distinction 
were  its  inmates  at  the  time  when  the  British  troops 
were  here,  being  the  wives  of  some  of  its  principal  offi- 
cers. Among  these  were  the  Baroness  Reidesel,  with 
her  children,  wife  of  General  Reidesel,  and  Lady  Har- 
riet Ackland,  wife  of  Major  Ackland,  commander  of  the 
British  Grenadiers.     The  former  published  an  account  of 

*  General  Frazer  wns  shot  in  the  meadow,  near  the  feace  by 
the  road  side,  just  south  of  the  blacksmith's  shop.  The  spot  i« 
marked  by  the  third  tree  in  a  row  of  poplars. 


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83 


BARL3T0N    3Pni.NG3. 


what  she  saw  during  this  trying  and  dangerous  contest, 
after  her  return  to  Europe.  The  house  was  convortcd 
into  an  hospitiil  during  the  second  battle,  and  Gen.  Fra- 
zer  died  on  the  8th  of  October  in  what  is  now  the  bar 
His  grave  is  on  the  hill. 


room. 


I'' 

lit!:    • 


Ballston  Springs.  This  village  is  situated  in  a  little 
valley  surrounded  by  hills,  which  have  the  aspect  of  hav- 
ing once  been  the  bed  of  a  small  laUe.  The  high  ground 
enclosing  it,  gives  an  air  of  seclusion  to  the  place,  at  the 
same  time  that  it  furnishes  a  variety  of  pleasant  scenery. 
The  Kaydcrosseros  brook  flows  through  the  valley,  in 
some  places  overhung  by  forest  tre^s.  Railroads  lead 
to  Saratoga  Springs,  Troy  and  Schenectady. 

The  Sans  Souci  Hotel  is  the  principal  house  in  the 
place.  It  has  a  fine  piazza  opening  upon  the  streets, 
and  presents  a  front  of  156  feet  long,  with  a  wing  extend- 
ing back  from  each  end  150  feet,  all  of  them  three 
stories  high,  and  containing  in  all  lodging  for  nearly  150 
persons. 

The  variety  of  scenery  in  the  neighbourhood  is  sufficient 
to  attract  many  of  those  who  resort  to  this  place  of  health 
and  pleasure. 

The  Washington  Spring  was  opened  in  1827,  by 
l)oring  237  feet  deep,  through  blue  slate  rock,  near  the  Old 
Spring.  It  has  a  tube  sunk  the  whole  distance,  made 
partly  of  iron  and  partly  of  tin,  and  affords  a  most  delight- 
ful sparkling  water,  which  boils  over  the  top.  In  August 
of  that  year,  several  months  after  it  was  opened,  the 
water  was  forced  into  the  air  to  the  height  of  12  or  14 
feet,  without  any  perceptible  cause,  in  a  constant  jet,  for 
about  half  an  hour.  The  water  then  disappeared,  and  was 
afterwards  discovered  slowly  rising  till  it  again  overflowed. 
It  was  for  a  time  flat  and  turbid ;  but  soon  recovered  all 
its  clearness,  gaseous  pungency  and  sparkling. 

Thk  Lafayette  Spring,  which  yields  a  fine  and 
sparkling  chalybeate  water,  was  discovered  early  in  the 
summer  of  1825.  It  is  supposed  by  many  to  be  in  fact 
identical  with  the  "Old  Spring."  It  is  very  cold  and 
highly  charged  with  oxyde  of  iron  and  carbonic  acid  gas, 
which  have  given  it  a  high  reputation. 

The  Old  Spring,  which  is  in  the  middle  of  the  street, 
was  the  first  discovered  in  all  this  part  of  the  country.     It 


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SARATOGA. 


83 


i«  said  that  the  inhabitants  were  induced  to  trust  to  its  pe- 
culiar virtues  by  the  example  of  the  deer  of  the  forest, 
which  had  resorted  to  it  in  such  numbers  as  to  form  l>eaten 
paths  from  every  direction  to  the  spot.  In  1792  there 
was  not  a  house  within  two  miles  of  this  spot. 

The  Old  Spring  has  lost  much  of  its  original  excellence, 
which  fippears  to  be  in  a  good  degree  transferred  to  the 
new  ones. 

The  Saline,  or  United  States  Spring  is  near  the  bath- 
ing house  connected  with  the  Sans  Souci.  It  was  disco- 
vered about  18  years  since,  and  contains  a  large  quantity 
of  oxyde  of  iron,  together  with  glauber  and  other  salts,  so 
that  it  is  at  once  a  strong  saline,  and  chalybeate  water. 

The  New  Spring  is  near  the  Sans  Souci  hotel.  It  was 
obtained  in  1827  by  boring  to  the  depth  of  about  300  feet, 
and  is  full  of  gas,  very  sparkling,  and  considered  both 
«aline  and  chalybeate. 

The  neighbouring  country  was  almost  a  perfect  wilder- 
ness at  the  close  of  the  revolutionary  war;  for  the  natural 
military  route  between  Canada  and  the  United  States  lay 
through  it,  to  the  Five  Nations  of  Indians,  and  war  par- 
ties were  frequently  passing  over  it. 

For  some  years  the  only  place  where  visiters  could  find 
shelter  hero,  was  in  a  log  house,  near  the  Old  Spring, 
which  was  for  some  time  the  only  object  of  notice. 

SARATOGA   SPRINGS. 

Saratoga  Springs  are  7  miles  from  Ballston  Springs 
by  the  railroad. 

Saratoga  is  quite  concealed  until  you  are  within  a  short 
distance,  and  then  the  clusters  of  frail  board  buildings 
which  spring  up  among  the  stumps  of  trees  lately  felled  in 
the  skirts  of  the  pine  forest,  show  what  an  unnatural  sur- 
plus of  population  the  place  contains  during  the  visiting 
season,  which  is  principally  in  July  and  August. 

From  the  brow  of  a  hill  which  descends  into  the  village, 
the  street  lies  in  full  view,  with  all  the  principal  houses. 
On  the  right  is  Congress  Hall  three  stories  high  with  a 
row  of  17  columns,  rising  from  the  ground  to  the  eaves ; 
opposite  is  Union  Hall  with  a  row  of  10  similar  columns ; 
over  which  are  scon  the  brick  walls  of  the  United  States 

8* 


.1! 


nt 


TIIK    STRINGS. 


Hotel ;  nti.l  9UU  beyond,  and  on  the  other  side,  the  roof 
of  the  Pavilion.  From  this  view  the  villngo  is  represented 
in  the  nccompanying  print,  which  was  talten  on  the  jpot. 

At  the  foot  of  the  hill,  the  Congress  Spring,  the  grent 
•ttrnction  of  the  place,  is  seen  at  a  short  distance  on  the 
right,  usually  surrounded  with  a  throng  of  people. 

Congress  Hall  has  an  imposing  appeal unce.  It  is  19G 
feet  long  on  the  street,  with  two  wings  of  60  feet  running 
back,  and  contninslodging  for  150.  The  f  rstdoor  in  front 
is  divided  in  the  following  manner :  a  dining  room  in  tJio 
middle,  capable  of  containing  tables  for  all  the  house  can 
accommodate;  next  the  dancing  ha\l,  about  80  feet  long  ; 
and  soot  In  he  ladies'  private  parlour.     Th«  price  of  board 

is  $10  per  week.  <.  .   •  i 

,      The  United  States  Hall  is   a  fine  bmldmg  of  brick, 
three  utories  high,  with  a  colonnade. 

The  Pavilion.  Those  who  wiah  to  drink  often  of  tho 
Flat  Rock  water,  will  prefer  it,  as  that  Spring  is  only  a 
few  steps  from  it  in  the  renr.  There  is  a  fine  Bathing 
House  connected  with  it,  ond  a  shady  httle  wood  not  f«r 
beyond  by  tho  road  side,  on  tho  way  to  tho  Round  Rock 

^'uinon  Hall  is  the  resort  of  those  who  wish  to  have  tho 
most  convenient  access  to  tho  waters  of  the  Congress 
Spring,  or  to  participate  more  moderately  in  the  amuse- 
ments of  the  place,  ami  to  avoid  tho  inconvenience^  of 
gaiety  and  mirth,  produced  by  the  continued  round  of  balls 
and  dances  in  the  other  principal  houses. 

The  Congress  Spring,  which  is  the  great  source  from 
which  this  place  derives  its  celebrity  and  its  show  of  wealth 
and  importance,  was  discovered  by  Mr.  Putnam.  He  built 
the  first  house  near  it  for  the  accomtno.  ion  ot  lavalids, 
which  was  subsequently  enlarged  to  th.^    predai-t   Union 

Hall,  now  kept  by  his  son.  ,   ,  ,     ..         •  u 

The  Congress  Spring  was  long  concealed  by  the  ne  gh- 
bouring  biook  which  formerly  passed  over  it;  but  its  valua- 
ble  qualities  being  discovered,  it  has  attracted  umver*,nl 
attention,  and  the  benefits  of  its  waters  are  annually  dis- 

r(€iised  to  thousands.  ,     .      v  ir  i 

Mi.  SiUiman  gives  the  following  analysis ;  half  a  gal- 
lon contains  320  grains  of  aalt,  2a  Um«  and  magnesia, 
with  a  slight  trace  of  iron. 


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THK    SPRI?»OS- 


z:* 


The  Flat  Rock  Spring  is  near  the  upper  end  of  tlw 
streot,  and  in  the  rear  of  tl»o  Pavilion. 

The  Round  Rock  Spring  is  wortliy  of  a  visit  merely 
ns  a  nntural  curiosity ;  the  water,  ukhough  for  a  titno 
much  celebrated,  and  indeed  the  only  attraction  of  which 
Saratoga  could  boast,  having  gone  into  disrepute,  since 
the  discovery  of  the  sources  already  mentioned.  It  is  a 
feeble  chalybeate  with  little  taste  and  little  effect.  The 
water  rises  in  a  small  rock  of  calcareous  tufa,  of  a  coni- 
c;il  form,  with  a  circular  hole  in  the  middle,  about  five 
inches  in  diameter.  'J'he  rock  is  about  five  feet  through 
at  the  base,  and  has  evidently  been  produced  by  the  lay 
eii'sof  lune  d(!posited  by  the  wuter. 

That  part  of  the  rock  which  is  most  exposed  to  tTie  drip" 
ping  of  water  taken  out  in  cups  through  the  hole  in  the 
top,  is  always  smooth  anri  even,  wh>"o  other  piirts  are 
rough  and  broken.  Fractures  made  by  visiters  are  some- 
times found  half  obliterated  by  a  recent  coat  of  calcareous 
matter  formed  in  this  manner.  A  horizontal  rock,  oi' 
similar  formation,  extends  under  gronnd. 

It  is  said  that  the  Rijund  Rock  was  shown  to  Sir  Wil- 
liam Johnson  by  an  Indian,  before  which  time  it  was  un- 
known to  white  men.  The  water,  according  to  common 
report,  formerly  Howed  over  the  top,  but  has  for  many 
years  found  its  way  below,  through  a  crevice  produced  by 
a  large  forest  tree  which  fell  and  cracked  the  rock. 

The  Iodine  Spring  is  nesir  the  Round  Rock. 

Mineral  Springs  and  Minerals  of  Ncw-York.  A 
scientific  survey  of  the  stale  of  New-York,  has  been  in 
progress  several  years,  the  reports  of  which  are  highly  in- 
teresting. Numerous  ai>n!ig9  of  almost  all  sorts  are  found 
in  dilferent  counties.  Besid^js  those  r.ientioned  in  this  book^ 
tliero  are  petrifying  spriogs  at  Watervliet,  Chilteningo,. 
Miircellus.  Gov(!rneur,  St.  Lawrence,  Ithaca,  &c.  Brine 
springs  in  Cortlaridt  county,  York,  Lenox.  Vernon,  Mur- 
rny,  and  elsewhere  in  Orleans,  Wayne  and  Oswego  couu- 
ties.  Sulphureous  and  chalybeate  are  most  numerous. — 
The  petrified  shells,  &c.  fi)und  in  many  of  the  rocky  strata, 
are  associated  with  petrified  plants  of  the  same  species  as 
accompany  them  in  Europe.  Specimens  from  both  couu' 
tries,  if  accidentally  mixed,  could  not  be  discriminated. 
Irun,    leaJ,,   copp'it,    zxnc,    plu'r>b:\s;c>    uad  other  mine* 


h  i  .. 


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SAnATOGA. 


It 


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and  beds  are  numerous.     The  Rossie  lead  minp,  St.  Law- 
rence county  is  remarkably  rich  and  valuable,  and  abound* 
;.f;   *"  ^  variety  of  beautiful  minerals. 
^^"^'^  '  i.  ^'^''.^^^^■^'^-  This  state  has  made  most  creditable  proffress 
in  public  education.  A  small  sum  is  annually  paid  out  of  the 
pchool  fund  to  common  school  districts,  which  have  expend- 
ed an  equal  amount  oi.  schools  regularly  conducted     and 
the  system  is  now  general.     The  share  of  the  surplus  reve- 
nue has  been  appopriated  to  the  purchase  of  district  librn- 
iies;  and  about  10,000  libraries  of  50  volumes  each,  are 
now  gratuitously  open  to  the  children  and  adults,  under  the 
r^hnrge  of  the  teachers.     The  colleges  and  about  80  acada- 
mies  are  under  the  superintendence  of  the  Regents  of  the 
tiniversity,  and  aided  with  money  from  the  literature  fund, 
fecientific  observations  are  made  at  the  academies,  and 
tull  reports  annually  returned. 

Saratoga  Lake.  An  excursion  to  this  beautiful pie--^ 
ot  water,  is  one  of  the  most  agreeable  that  can  be  made  in 
any  direction.  It  is  5|  miles  distant,  in  a  southeasterly 
direction,  and  is  frequently  visited  by  parties  from  Saratoga. 
Ihe  lake  extends  seven  miles  in  length  and  is  two  in 
breadth.  The  shores  are  bold  and  varied,  gently  descend- 
ing with  a  smooth  slope  to  the  margin,  or  rising  in  rugged 
crags  from  the  water's  edge;  sometimes  softened  and 
beautified  by  the  hand  of  cultivation,  and  sometimes  aban- 
doned to  all  their  native  wildness. 

The  Reading  Room.  Strangers  will  find  newspapers 
from  different  parts  of  the  country. 

A  record  will  also  be  found  at  the  same  place,  into 
which  the  amvals  and  departures  of  visiters  are  copied, 
onc^  a  day,  from  the  books  of  the  principal  houses. 

The  Battle  Gronnd.  The  defeat  of  General  Burgovne 
in  the  year  1777,  took  place  a  few  miles  east  from  the 
Spnngs.     See  page  78. 

Remarks  ON  the  Routes.  North.  Three  great  routes 
trom  the  Springs  towards  the  north  may  be  particularized, 
although  they  run  almost  side  by  side,  and  all  unite  on 
arriying  at  Lake  Champlain.  1st,  The  fashionable  route, 
to  Caldwell  on  Lake  George.  2d,  The  road  to  White- 
iiall.     Jd.  By  sfgecoach  and  canal  to  Whitehall.* 

*  Thero  also  are  two  stage  routes  to  Montreal.  e>n«  on  «a«». 
Biae  «i  i<ake  Cliuiupiijiia.  '     ""  "" 


THK   SPRINGS, 


87 


The  first  of  tliese  is  usually  travelled  by  strangers  of 
taste  and  leisure,  as  it  conducts  directly  to  the  fine  scenery 
of  Lake  George,  and  the  battle  grounds  in  its  vicinity; 
and  passes  near  several  other  spots  of  high  interest  for 
their  historical  associations.  Even  if  a  journey  to  Mon- 
treal 18  mtenaed,  it  can  hardly  be  too  urgently  pressed 
upon  the  stranger  to  devote  a  leisure  day  or  two  to  Lake 
treorge  on  his  way,  as  he  will  find  himself  most  amply 
rewarded  and  can  join  the  great  routo  with  facility  at 
1  iconderoga. 

The  traveller  should  stop  at  Ticonderoga  to  see  the 
rums  of  the  old  fortress.  If  he  can  visit  Lake  George, 
he  may  take  the  beautiful  scenery,  and  interesting  sites  of 
that  attractive  region  in  his  way.  If  he  has  not  time  for 
that,  he  may  land  at  Ticonderoga,  where  a  steamboat 
wharf  has  just  been  built,  and  a  commodious  house  fitted 
up  this  season,  and  devote  at  least  one  day  to  a  ramble 
about  that  picturesque  and  celebrated  point. 

The  second  route  is  the  road  to  Whitehall,  which  is 
furnished  with  public  carriages  from  the  Springs  during 
the  warm  season,  and  like  the  canal  passes  near  some  of 
the  interesting  places  to  be  mentioned  hereafter.  From 
Whitehall  the  traveller  may  proceed  down  Lake  Cham- 
plam  m  the  daily  steamboats,  or  by  land  in  the  mail 
coach. 

East.  Travellers  wishing  to  go  to  any  part  of  the 
country  m  this  direction,  may  take  their  choice  of  several 
routes.  Lines  of  stagecoaches  run  to  Connecticut  River,, 
trom  Buriington,  Middlebury,  Castleton,  and  Granville, 
as  well  as  from  Troy  and  Albany,  in  various  directions — 
to  Hanover,  Brattleborough,  Greenfield,  Northampton, 
Springfield,  Hartford ;  and  there  subdividing  into  nume- 
rous  ramifications,  ofier  the  means  of  conveyance  to  every 
part  of  New-  England . 

The  most  interesting  route  that  can  be  chosen  by  a  man 
of  taste,  from  the  Springs  to  Boston,  is  through  Veimont 
to  the  White  Mountains,  and  Winnipiseogee  Lake  in 
New-Hampshire.  He  may  take  what  road  he  pleases  to 
Connecticut  River;  and  then  proceed  to  Bath  on  it» 
eastern  shore,  pursuing  the  course  of  the  Lower  Am- 
monoosuc  River  to  the  White  Mountains. 


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8S  EXCURSION  TO  LAKE  GEORGE. 

EXCURSION  TO  LAKE  GEORGE,  27  miles. 

This  is  by  far  the  most  delightful,  as  well  as  fashiona- 
ble excursion  which  can  be  made  from  the  Springs  in  any 
direction,  as  it  abounds  with  some  of  the  finest  scenery  in 
the  United  States,  and  in  numerous  sites  and  objects  inti- 
mately connected  with  the  history  of  the  country. 

For  Lake  George,  27  m.  a  stagecoach  starts  daily,  after 
the  arrival  of  the  Albany  train  of  cars,  with  six  horses, 
and  passing  through  Glenn's  Falls,  arrives  by  daylight. 
The  beautiful  and  commodious  steamboat  Wm.  Caldwell, 
Capt.  Larrabee,  plies  on  the  lake  daily  (Sundays  excepted.) 
The  lino  is  complete,  rapid  and  convenient  on  this  route 
to  Lake  Chumplain,  as  coaches  await  the  boat  at  the 
end  of  the  lake,  and  go  on  to  Ticonderoga.  The  boat 
waits  3 J  hours,  which  is  sufficient  time  to  see  Ticonde- 
roga, dine  and  return.  There  the  traveller  finds  a  good 
hotel ;  and,  after  reviewing  the  interesting  ruins  and 
Bcenery,  may  go  back  to  Lake  George,  or  pass  down  Lake 
Champlain  to  Canada. 

The  splendid  steampacket  Burlington,  Capt.  R.  W. 
Sherman,  and  the  Whitehall,  Capt.  Lyons,  touch  daily  at 
the  new  dock  at  Ticonderoga  Point,  which  has  been  con- 
structed for  their  convenience  by  Mr.  Pell,  proprietor  of 
the  place.  The  ruins  remain  in  the  same  state  of  careful 
preservation  in  which  they  were  kept  by  the  late  Alfred 
H.  Pell,  Esq.  to  whose  taste  and  intelligence  visiters  to  this 
interesting  spot  will  be  indebted  for  much  gratification. 
The  fine  and  extensive  garden,  enriched  by  him  with 
some  curious  exotics,  is  worthy  of  attention.  There  will 
be  found,  in  luxuriant  growth,  several  plants  rarely  found 
in  60  cold  a  climate:  the  cork  tree,  French  willow,  Euro- 
pean vines,  &c. 

From  the  time  of  the  earliest  wars  between  the  British 
colonies  and  the  French  in  Canada,  to  that  of  1755,  the 
tract  over  which  part  of  our  route  lies  was  the  high  road 
of  war.  It  was  traversed  by  many  a  hostile  expedition, 
in  which  the  splendour  and  power  of  European  arms 
mingled  with  the  fierce  tactics  of  savage  warriors :  the 
ruins  of  fortresses  are  still  to  be  traced  in  several  places, 
and  tradition  points  to  many  a  spot  that  has  been  sprin- 
kled with  blood.     During  the  revolution,   also,   some  of 


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89 


the  important  events  in  our  history  took    place  in  this 
neighbourhood. 

The  Road  from  Saratoga  to  Glenn's  Falls,  18  milea. 
Wilton,  7  m  Thirteen  miles  beyond,  the  road  branches 
off  eastward  for  Sandy  Hill. 

Haifa  mile  before  reaching  the  village,  the  road  enters 
a  rich  plain,  probably  once  overflown  by  the  river,  which 
is  now  discovered  on  the  left,  dividing  it  in  its  course, 
while  the  village  appears  in  front,  with  a  handsome  church 
spire,  and  a  number  of  neat  white  houses,  all  backed  by 
the  mountains,  which  here  stretch  oflf  towards  the  north. 

French  Mountain  is  the  most  prominent  eminence,  of 
which  more  anon  A  more  distant  range  is  likewise  seen 
further  to  the  right. 

Glenn's  Falls.  From  the  bridge,  the  falls  in  the 
Hudson  are  in  full  view.  The  river  here  makes  a  suddfm 
descent  of  37  feet,  over  a  rock  of  dark  blue  limestone, 
which  has  been  worn  into  so  many  forms  as  to  break  up 
the  current  in  a  very  singular  manner.  The  projection  of 
two  large  masses  of  rock  divides  the  water  into  three 
sheets. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  river  is  a  feeder  to  the  Cham- 
plain  Canal. 

Caverns.  The  mouths  of  two  caverns  are  found  facing 
the  north,  in  different  places  among  the  rocks.  The  first 
is  just  large  enough  to  permit  the  passage  of  a  man,  and 
is  cut  with  surprising  regularity  for  a  distance  of  about 
25  feet.  This  place  is  made  the  scene  of  some  of  the 
most  interesting  chapters  of  Mr.  Cooper's  novel  of  the 
Last  of  the  Mohicans. 

About  half  way  between  this  place  and  Sandy  Hill,  a 
convoy  of  wagons  was  attacked  in  the  French  war,  on 
their  way  to  Lake  George. 

Nearly  north  of  Glenn's  Falls,  is  Luzerne  Mountain ; 
and  a  little  to  the  right  of  it,  French  Mountain.  Between 
them  passes  the  road  to  Lake  George.  Towards  the 
west,  a  range  of  high  hills  encloses  the  view,  and  in  the 
east,  the  Vermont  Mountains  make  a  fine  appearance. 

Near  the  foot  of  French  Mountain  is  a  small  house,  on 
the  east  side  of  the  road  ;  and  near  this  place  Gen.  Dieskau's 
advanced  guard  struck  the  route  from  Glenn's  Falls  and 
Fort  Edward  to  Fort  William  Henry.     The  valley  through 


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which  we  pass  is  narrow  for  some  distance  beyond ;  and 
after  about  half  an  hour's  r'nU\  a  httle  circular  pond  is 
discovered  on  the  east  side,  and  close  by  tlie  road.  It  is 
usually  almost  cfincealed  with  writer  plants. 

This  was  near  the  place  of  action  between  Col.  Wil- 
liams and  Gen.  Dieskau.  The  latter  had  extended  his 
troops  across  the  path,  and  advanced  his  wings  some  dis- 
tance in  front,  the  left  wing  occupying  the  rising  ground 
on  the  west  side  of  the  road  near  this  place.  A  small 
cleared  spot  may  be  noticed  on  the  other  side,  a  little 
beyond  the  pond,  (in  1825  a  hut  stood  upon  it,)  that  is 
sa'd  to  have  been  the  principal  scene  of  action;  and  a 
singular  rock  near  by  is  pointed  out  by  tradition  as  the 
mark  of  Col.  Williams's  grave. 

The  little  pond  above  mentioned  was  the  place  where 
most  of  the  dead  were  thrown,  and  it  bears  the  name  of 
Bloody  Pond  to  this  day.  It  is  probably  much  smaller 
than  formerly.  In  1825  the  skeleton  of  a  man  was  dug 
«p  from  a  depth  of  1^  feet,  near  the  pond,  with  a  marble 
pipe,  and  some  silver  eyed  buttons  bearing  the  royal  stamp. 
This  pond  is  nearly  circular,  and  is  covered,  in  their  sea- 
son, with  the  Pond  Lily,  (Nymphea  Alba.) 

LAKE  GEORGE. 

Lake  George.  Coming  to  the  brow  of  a  high  hill,  the 
prospect  opens,  and  the  lake  apf)ears,  enclosed  by  moun- 
tains, many  of  which,  at  this  distance,  are  of  a  deep  blue. 
The  side  of  French  Mountain  is  near  at  hand  on  the  east, 
covered  with  thick  trees  to  the  summit ;  while  the  smooth- 
ness of  the  lake,  the  beauty  of  its  nearest  shore,  with  the 
neat  white  buildings  of  Caldwell,  communicate  to  the 
scene  a  degree  of  beauty  and  seclusion,  which  can  hardly 
be  found  in  any  other  spot.  Directly  at  the  south  end 
are  the  remains  of  Forts  George  and  William  Henry. 

Caldwelu  The  village  of  Caldwell  is  the  place  at 
which  the  visiter  will  stop  to  take  a  view  of  this  charming 
lake,  and  from  which  he  will  make  his  excursions  across 
its  beautiful  waters.  The  village  stands  at  the  south  end 
•of  the  lake,  and  on  its  shore,  commanding  a  fine  view  of 
the  neighbouring  sheet  of  water,  and  the  mountains  by 
which  it  is  almost  enclosed.     The  inn  to  which  strangers 


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LAKE     OKOROE. 


91 


rosort  occupies  a  spot  peculiarly  fitted  to  gratify  the  eye  of 
taste,  aa  it  overlooks  the  hike  for  several  miles,  and  the 
view  is  not  interrupted  by  any  neighbouring  obstacle.  A 
more  delightful  place  can  hardly  be  found  in  the  United 
States,  for  the  temporary  residence  of  one  who  takes  de- 
light in  scenery  of  this  description,  and  loves  to  recur 
to  deeds  long  past,  and  to  exploits  great  in  tliemselves 
&nd  important  in  their  results  even  to  the  present  day. 

Lake  (ieorge  id  34  miles  long,  and  its  greatest  breadth 
4.  At  the  Boiith  end  it  is  only  about  one  mile  broad. 
The  greatest  depth  is  sixty  fathoms.  The  water  is  re- 
markable for  its  purity — a  fish  or  a  stone  may  bo  seen  at 
the  depth  of  20  or  30  feet.  It  is  undoubtedly  supplied 
by  sprmgs  from  below,  as  the  water  is  coldest  near  the 
bottom.  It  contains  trout,  bass,  and  perch.  There  are 
deer  in  the  neighbouring  forest.  The  outlet  which  loads 
to  Lake  Champlain  contains  three  large  falls  and  rapids. 
The  lake  never  rises  more  than  two  feet. 

The  three  best  pomts  of  view  are   at  Fort  George,  a 
place  north  of  Shelving  Rock,  14  miles,  and  another  at 
Sabbath  Day  Point,  21  miles  from  the  head  of  the  lake. 
The  last  view  is  taken  southward,  the  other  two  northiiK 
ward. 

This  beautiful  basin  with  its  pure  cjrystal  water,  is 
bounded  by  two  ranges  of  mountains,  which,  in  some 
places  rising  with  a  bold  and  hasty  ascent  from  the  water, 
and  in  others  dei^cending  with  a  graceful  sweep  from  a 
great  height  to  a  broad  and  level  tnargin,  furnish  it  with 
a  charming  variety  of  scenery,  which  every  change  of 
weather,  as  well  as  every  change  of  position,  presents  in 
new  and  countless  beauties.  The  intermixture  of  culti- 
vation with  the  wild  scenes  of  nature  is  extremely  agree- 
able ;  and  the  undulating  surface  of  the  well-tilled  farm 
is  often  contrasted  with  the  deep  shade  of  the  native  forest, 
and  the  naked,  weather-beaten  cliffs,  where  no  vegetation 
can  dwell. 

The  situation  of  the  Hotel  is  delightful,  surpassing 
that  of  almost  every  other  to  be  found  in  this  part  of  the 
country,  and  the  apartments  are  so  arranged  that  half  of 
them  look  out  upon  the  lake.  A  green  and  handsome 
slope  descends   about  200  yards  to  the  very  margin. 


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There  is  tho  wharf,  at  which  the  steamboat  receives  and 
lands  her  passien|Li<ra.  The  discharge  of  a  gun  makcj* 
fine  echoes  among  ilie  mountains  in  a  clear  night. 

Tho  lake  is  hem  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide, 
and  ihe  range  of  moimtaios  opposite,  which  are  high  and 
uninterrupted,  is  quite  uncultivated  with  the  exception 
of  a  few  farms  near  the  shore  ;  the  other  parts  being  co- 
vered with  trees  almost  to  tho  water. 

On  the  right  is  seen  the  south  end  of  the  lake,  which 
is  formed  of  low  land  for  some  distance  back,  bucceeded 
by  French  Mountain  in  the  rear  On  a  little  point, 
half  covered  with  trees,  and  rising  only  about  25  feet 
above  the  water,  is  the  site  of  Fort  William  Henry;  and 
about  a  mile  towards  the  southeast  from  it,  on  a  con- 
siderable elevation,  are  the  ruins  of  Fort  George.  See 
page  93. 

Excursions  on  thb  Lake.  Boats  are  kept  at  the 
wharf  to  convey  passengers  to  any  part  of  the  neighbour- 
ing shores  and  islands.  Fine  perch,  or  black  bass,  (Perca 
Franktinia,)  are  caught  in  abundance  almost  everywhere ; 
and  trout,  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  stream  near  the  south 
end.  Fishing  rods  and  tackle  may  be  obtained  at  the  ho- 
tel ;  and  a  variety  of  other  fish  are  to  be  found. 

Diamond  Isl.\nd  is  a  few  miles  down  the  lake,  and 
is  famous  for  abounding  in  crystals  of  quartz,  which  are 
foiind  in  a  loose  rock  by  digging  a  little  under  the  sur- 
face They  are  found,  however,  in  equal  numbers  in 
several  of  the  other  islands  ;  and  it  is  easy  to  purchase 
them. 

Tea  Island,  about  2  miles  down  the  lake,  is  another 
favourite  retreat.  The  little  bay  in  which  the  boats  land 
is  remarkably  retired  and  beautiful,  and  there  is  an  old 
hut  standing  which  affords  something  of  a  shelter. 

LoNo  Island  contains  about  100  acres,  and  has  been 
inhabited  and  cultivated  Beside  these,  there  are  many 
other  islands  on  the  neighbouring  parts  of  the  lake  ;  and 
those  who  are  fond  of  such  excursions,  would  be  highly 
pleased  with  devoting  several  days  to  visit  them.  The 
finest  cluster  is  in  the  Narrows,  about  12  miles  distant. 

West  of  the  village  is  a  remarkable  conical  eminence, 
called  Rattlesnakes'  Cobble,  or  Prospect  Hill.     This 


as 


LAKK    GEORGE. 


93 


well  as  the  mountains  beyond  it.  is  the  habitation  ofl.rars 
and  deer,   and  much  infested  with  rattlesnakes.     The 
view  from  the  top  18  very  fine. 
.    The  French  Appkoaches.     The  village  of  Caldwell 

o  Fori  Wilharn  Henry,  the  ground  which  it  now  occu- 
pies wae  crossed  by  the  trenches  and  batteries  with  which 

ZZtfo^l'^'''^'^' '"  ^^'^-^ '''  -^-'^^'-  °^ 

The  place  where  he  landed  with  his  army  is  the  little 

r!n  h?  I  '  "!  "^''"'^  ^''  ^'''""y  "«"  ^he  shire,  and 
of  thn  ho?  T.  '"°'"  '^^  '^'"'''  '"^°  ^^«  fie'ds  in  front 
tLlrS    f     ^^^^'"^'"^  '"^y  s"H  be  traced,  as  well  as 

wT?^"'^  '  ""'"  T''^'  ^^"^'y'  "«"  the  bars  of  a 
fence  leading  to  a  small  house.  Another  line  runs  to  the 
bank  of  the  lake,  on  this  side  of  the  brook,  whore  was 
a  so  a  battery;  and  another  borciers  the  swamp  to  the 
Rph  'rYtt'"*"'^''  turns  southward  along  the  high  ground. 
Fr.n  h  m'  '"  '  P;"^^oo^.  «^<^'  the  graves  of  about  1000 
J^rench  soldiers,  who  died  in  the  fort 

Battle  op  Lake  Georob      In  1755,  the  year  after 

l.^rT/"'^'^''"'  °''  ^^«  ^'^''"^'^  ^^«^.  30^0  '"en  were 
sent  out  fron.  France  to  Quebec,  for  the  purpose  of  tak- 
ing  Oswego  Fort.  This  was  situated  nt  the  mouth  of 
Onta!r^®°'''  Onondago  River,  and  on  the  shore  of  Lake 
General  Johnson,  (afterwards  Sir  William,)  also  march- 

able  nJm'br"'?  '"^  "'  ^^'^^  ^^°^^«  -"^^^  <^oZZ. 
abe  number  of  men,  joined  by  the  famous  Cant.  Hend- 
rick,  with  many  Indians  of  the  Five  Nations,  intending  o 
take  Fort  Frederick,  now  Crown   Point.     Gen.  DiLskau 

ThThlT  'Tr'  [""'  ""^  ^^^«  "^-'  principal^Tfrom 
the  body  of  French  troops  mentioned  at  Quebec.  On 
reaching  South  Bay,  and  learning  the  situaUon  of  Fort 
Lyman  (now  Fort  Edward,)  he  wished  to  attack  t  and 
nadians     hn'"''"'  '^  ^""'  '!''^T'''     ^^e  Indians  and  Ca- 

To  mar.h  „  '"^Pr't^  '"  be  defended,  and  he  was  obliged 
to  march  against  Johnson.  * 

Stmday,  Sept.  7th,  at  midnight,  a  scout  brought  John, 


I'l 


94 


BATir.K    or   I.AKB   OKORQK. 


Bon  infelllgoncn  that  Dicskau  was  coming;  who  9.jntl200 
mon   out   in   tho  niorninir,  undor  the  command  of  Col. 
J'.plira.in  Wilhama.    Tho  enemy  were  in  ambush  at  Rocky 
lirook,  drawn  up  in  a  semicircle,  into  which  the  English 
«nt«red  before  they  knew  it.     A   heavy  fire  from  three 
suit's  hrst  showed  the  position  of  their  enemies.     The  En- 
gjish  stood  their  ground  valiantly  ;  hut  Cols.  Williams  and 
Hondnck  he.ng  both  shot  down,  together  with  many  others, 
they  were  obliged  to  begin  their  retreat,which  was  conduct- 
ed by  Col.  Whituig  with  the  greatest  coolness  and  success. 
Iho  centre  of  the  English  army  was  posted  on  the  hill 
where  the  ruins  of  Fort  George  now  arej  and  the  French 
were  d.scovered  by  them  at  half  past  11.     Dieskau  halted 
at  the  flight  of  his  enemies,  p.-obabIy  entertaining  some 
mistaken  idea  of  tho  strength  of  their  position,  and  gave 
them  time  to  recover  from  their  panic.     The  ground   on 
both  sides  of  the  English  camp  was  marshy  and  covered 
with  trees,  and  Dieskau  sent  his  Indians  out  on  the  right 
flank  and  tho  Canadians  on  tho  left  to  surround  them. 
Col.  Pomeroy,  however,  soon  put  tho  formei  lo  flight  with 
a  tew  cannon  shots.     Dieskau  then  brought  up  his  troops 
m  front,  and  made  them  firo  by  platoons,  with  very  little 
eRoct.     Gen.  Johnson  (happily  for  his  own  troops,)  was 
slightly  wounded  in  the  thigh,  and  had  to  walk  back  to 
his  tent,    leaving  the  command  with  Gen.  Lyman.     Ho 
directed  tho  defence  for  five  hours,  aided  by  Capt.  Eyre's 
artillery  ;  when  the  French  turned  upon  the  English  right, 
which  consisted  of  Ruggles's,  Pomeroy's  and  Tittlecomb's 
x«r^lI^^"'V   ^^'^  extended   from   the  road  to  where  Fort 
William  Henry  was  afterwards  built.     Here  they  fought 
an  hour,  but  tho  English  nnd  Indians  charging  them,  they 
took  to  flight  and  many  were  killed.     Gen.  Dieskau  him- 
self was  found  leaning  against  a  stump  wounded— a  sol- 
dier approaching  saw  him  put  his  hand  to  his  waist,  to  take 
out  his  watch,  which  he  intended  to  offer  to  him,  and  sup- 
posing  he   was  drawing  a  pistol,  shot  him  through  the 
thigh.     Ho  was  carried  to  tho  fort  by  eight  men  in    a 
blanket,  and  it  is  said  deterred  .Johnson  from  ordering  a 
pursuit,  by  saying  he  had  a  strong  force  near  at  hand. 
Gen.    Lyman  urged  to  follow  up  their  victory ;  but  that 
was  probably  a  sufficient  reason  for  its  being  refused  by  a 
superior  offieer,  who  looked  upon  his  groat  talents  with 


Massacre  at  fort  wilmam  hknuy. 


dd 


a 


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Ji«?ttlotJsy ;  iit)(l,  In  Hpito  of  tho  adviinfnge  the  counliy  hnd 
dorivpd  from  hiw  Hcrvicos,  ut  a  timo  wlum  they  where 
])oculiiirly  vuluabh^  did  not  oven  mention  tho  name  of 
(ten.  Lymnn  in  hi^t  lu'connt  of  ihu  buttlo  I — Johnson  wiis 
iniulo  a  Bnronet,  and  Lymun  hngered  out  a  few  years  in 
poverty  and  disappointment,  and  died  without  receiving 
even  tlie  notice  of  the  British  government. 

Tho  English  uie  said  to  liave  h)st  only  2lG  in  killed  and 
96  wounded.  Gtni.  DiiJskau  estimated  his  own  h)89  at 
1000— the  English  eallcd  it  much  less.  The  principal 
were  a  Major  General,  and  M.  do  St.  Pierre  the  comman- 
der of  tho  Indiana.  The  French  lost  their  baggage  dur- 
ing tho  action,  left  two  miles  intheir  rear,  it  being  attacked 
by  Captains  Kolsom  and  McGinnics  with  about  100  New* 
York  troops ;  who  then  lay  in  wait  for  tho  retreating 
French,  and  killed  great  numbers  of  them. 

Gen.  Johnson  might  have  taken  Crown  Point ;  but  ho 
delayed  it  so  long,  lliut  the  French  advanced  to  Ticonde- 
roga  and  there  fortified  themselves  securely. 

But  the  Battle  of  Lake  George  is  not  tho  only  nor 
ihe  most  sanguinary  sccn(i  of  former  times  which  the  tra- 
veller has  to  trace  on  this  sadly  interesting  spot.  Tho  his- 
tory of  the  French  war  recites  a  melancholy  tale  of  blood' 
shed  here,  only  two  years  afterwards,  in  1757. 

7Vie  Capture  and  Massacre  of  Fort  William  Henry, 
In  1757,  the  Earl  of  Loudon,  British  Commander  in  Chief 
in  America,  made  an  unsucvessful  attempt  by  sea  against 
Louisburg  ;  and  before  his  return  to  New-York  in  August, 
the  Ficiich  from  Ticonderoga  under  the  Mnr(|uis  de  Mont- 
calm, liud  made  three  attacks  on  Fort  William  Henry. 
On  tho  1st  of  ATig.  they  set  out  again,  and  landed  at  French- 
man's Point.  On  tho  evening  of  tho  2d,  they  crossed  to 
the  west  side  of  Lake  George,  within  two  miles  of  the  fort, 
and  tho  next  morning  sent  in  their  summons.  Colonel 
Monroe  dcfendcnl  himself  resolutely  for  six  days,  hoping 
relief  from  Col.  Webb  and  his  6000  men  at  Fort  Ed- 
ward ;  but  having  waited  in  vain  and  burst  ten  of  his 
largest  cannon,  he  was  obliged  to  surrender,  and  marched 
out  with  the  honours  of  war  and  an  assurance  of  being 
protected  from  tho  Indians  in  Montcalm's  army. 

Ho  had  gone  but  a  little  way,  however,  when  the  sa 


I      I. 


\  .  :i 


96 


>  1 

:  I 

!! 


II      '' 


ATTACK   ON   Vonr   TlCONBERoOA« 


Va^es  fell  upon  his  troops  and  butchered  about  1500  mm 
women,  and  children. 

Gen.  Webb's  conduct  was  most  inhuman.  The  pro- 
Vincia  troops  were  kept  undef  arms  for  one  whole  daV 
^f^*";if!f"«^;  of  the  siege  arrived  at  Fort  Edward,  and 
Mr  William  .Johnson  was  very  desirous  to  march  with 
thorn  to  lU  relief  j  but  Webb  ordered  them  back  to  theif 
quarters,  and  sent  a  messenger  to  Col.  Monroe  advisintf 
nim  to  surrender. 

Attack  on  t^ort  Tidondcroga.  The  south  end  of  Lake 
George  was  the  scene  of  a  splendid  embrtrkation  on  thd 
4th  of  Juy  of  the  following  yenr,  (1758,)  when  10,000 
lj-ovi„cml  troops,  and  6  or  7000  regulars  assembled  at 
tms  place  to  proceed  against  Ticondefoga.*  10:J5  boats 
were  drawn  up  to  the  shore  one  clear  delightful  summef 
morning,  and  were  speedily  filled  with  this  powerful  army, 
excepting  only  a  small  body  left  with  the  baggage.  Sue- 
cess  was  confidently  expected,  and  the  appearance  of  the 
tram  was  more  like  that  of  a  triumphant  retufn  from  war. 
Ihe  boats  were  decorated  with  gaudy  streamers,  and  thd 
oars  moved  to  martial  music. 

The  traveller  will  follow  their  route  in  the  steamboat, 
tor  which  see  below* 

They  landed  at  the  north  end  of  the  lake  on  the  followinff 
niormng,  and  were  ordered  to  mafch  on  in  four  columns! 
Ihe  obstructions  of  the  forest  however  soon  broke  theif 
Tanks  ;  when  Lord  Howe  with  his  centre  column,  falling  in 
with  the  enemy's  advance  guard,  who  were  on  their  re- 
treat and  bewildered,  was  attacked  with  a  sudden  waf 
whoop  and  immediately  killed.  The  provincials  were 
accustomed  t(.  the  woods,  and  drove  back  their  enemies, 
killing  ebout  300,  and  taking  148  prisoners,  and  all  re* 
turned  to  the  landing.  Tn  the  morning,  Col.  Bradstreet 
look  possession  of  the  mill  at  the  great  falls  on  the  river, 
and  the  army  were  soon  brought  to  the  French  lines, 
Which  were  thrown  up  across  the  isthmus  and  not  finished, 
llus  intrenchment  is  still  to  bo  seen  in  tolerable  presorva- 

*  Lord  Howe,  who  ncronipanied  this  expedition,  was  a  younjT 
hobiemnn  of  amiable  d.sj.osition  and  tho  niou  prepUessiD/man- 

:rd  io"v:i  :;z"r«^;;^'""'^  '^  ''^  ^""^»  '•  '^^^  *•  -'"-^ 


t.AKE  GGoAOS. 


0r 


1  'J 

m 


llott.  It  hait  iwo  redoubts  and  a  deep  abattis,  and  is  said 
to  have  been  8  or  9  feet  high.  The  attack  was  vigorous, 
*ind  the  defence  obstinatci  The  battle  continued  for  fouf 
hours,  during  which  the  English  were  repulsed  three 
times.  The  Highland  regiment  distingtiished  itself,  and 
suffered  severely  The  Engli?h  loss,  in  all,  was  1944, 
principally  regulars;  the  French  very  trifling,  although 
they  are  said  not  to  have  imagined  the  defence  possible. 
Their  force  is  differently  stated  from  1200  to  6000.  Not* 
\vithstand'ng  his  superiority  of  force,  Abercrombie  shame- 
fully ordered  a  retreat  j  and  thus  terminated  the  opera* 
lions  of  the  year. 

Voyage  dotbn  Lake  George.  Leaving  Caldwell,  tho 
steamboat  passes  Tea  Island,  Diamond,  Long,  and  other 
Islands,  particularly  the  Two  Sisters ;  and  then  the  lake) 
becomes  wider,  and  the  surface  more  uninterrupted,  the 
Course  of  the  boat  being  directly  towards  Tongue  Mouw 
tain.  That  which  partly  shuts  it  in  from  this  direction 
on  the  right,  is  Shelving  Rock;  and  Black  Mountain 
shows  its  rounded  summit  beyond  it,  a  little  to  the  right* 
This  last  is  supposed  to  be  about  2200  feet  high,  and  is 
considered  the  highest  mountain  on  the  lake. 

Tweliic  Mile  Island  is  seen  just  ahead.  It  is  of  a 
singularly  rounded  fotm^  coVeted  with  trees,  with  the 
utmost  regularity* 

The  Narrows.  The  lake  is  very  much  contracted 
where  it  passes  between  the  mountains  just  mentioned, 
and  their  surface  is  for  several  miles  broken  by  innumer- 
able islands.  These  are  of  various  sizes,  but  generally 
Very  snuiil,  and  of  little  elevation.  A  feW  of  them  arc 
named,  as  Green,  Bass,  Lonetree  Islands. 

Some  of  them  are  covered  with  trees,  others  with  shrubs; 
some  show  little  lawns  or  spots  of  grass,  heaps  of  bar- 
ren rocks,  or  gentle  sloping  shores;  and  most  of  them 
are  ornamented  with  graceful  pines,  hemlocks,  and  other 
tall  trees,  collected  in  groups,  or  standing  alone,  and 
disposed  with  most  charming  variety. 

After  passing  the  Narrows,  the  Inke  widens  again,  and 
the  retrospect  is,  for  several  miles,  through  that  passage, 
with  Tongue  Mountain  on  the  west,  and  Black  Mountain 
opposite,  the  Luzerne  range  appearing  at  a  great  distance 
Ofiwaen  themi     The  tuuuatnins  in  view  have  gcneroiiy 


98 


ROGKUS'  SLIDE. 


!  I 


|i  i 


\ 


deer,  rattlesnakes,  &c.  ^  mhaoited   by   wolves^ 

Sabbath  Day  Point  — TK,*»  i=      i 

taining  the  little  village  of  H.lu„      Ti"?        [  '    "''  ™"" 
shore  ia  Putmsn.  ^  ^'""  °"  "'«  "Pposile 

the  Sabblth'Ztt    htterif;,'''""  ''-""-""«  °f 
whic-h  it  is  Mw  known      I,  i,'^    I      ^"'"^  ""'  """">  '>J' 

co„.ibio„f,heg„r,t™benih,tr'"^ """  °"''  ^- 

moumabs'  afSh  Ztl""'"''  No3..-The,e  are  two 
between  them  Anttnvt'N""'™"'  ''"'^  '^""  '»  I'"- 
the  eastern  sire  a,  „f  enter  ?h  '""""'"  \'"'<'"P^':o-  »" 
«  Run  produoera'fine  echo      io^r^''^""^  ""=  «""='  "f 

S^ef  ^n""  Xh^  "^^^^^^^^^ 

^oo.er«'5^/irfe  has  its  name  from  Cnm   R.> 
nn  expedition  which  Joft  Cown  ?    !*    •      i  ^^"^'"anded 
Wrlhipt'by   hS'^:  Tco'''  '"""""!,»■*  *e  severlst 

and  then  by^afudden  ?nrn  ""^^T  '"^'^''^^  ^^^  ««"th, 

is  aprecipiL^bout  om  .T^^^      'H^""''  «^^^'  ^^^^^«  ^ 

neari;  po^plcW  rrtl^^g  hi  ZT\  ^^'^''  l"'^ 
^now  shoes  t.)  the  hU   „c!^     •  ^e  «hpped   upon  his 

almost  incredible .  and  n.?^'"^  "^""  '^"  """•  ^^is  seem« 
increaioie,  and  other  accounts  have  been  enven  nf 


/:/ 


A'orffi 


»  * 


i. 


I  Pi 


,1  ' '    <' 


j.     li 


5'    ! 

V  ?t     i 

f 

^',  ' 

'i 

I   \ 

f 

1 

A     i 

'fc 

tiii^ 

,i 

i>iMS**^*^  V^!'  ■  =^..■ 


FORTRESS    OP  TICONDEROGA 


99 


■'•IW 


The  lake  here  assumes  the  appearance  of  a  narrow 
pond  for  three  or  four  miles,  and  seems  closed  at  both 
ends.  The  ground  is  still  elevated  on  both  sides,  but  hills 
have  succeeded  to  mountains,  and  some  of  these  are  at 
length  overtopped  by  Black  Mountain,  which,  although  at 
such  a  distance,  at  length  makes  its  appearance  again,  and 
continues  in  sight. 

The  lake  at  length  diminishes  to  a  very  narrow  stream, 
and  the  bottom  becomes  gradually  covered  with  weeds. 

Lord  Howe's  Landing  is  just  behind  an  island  of  3 
acres,  on  the  left  hand  at  the  entrance  of  the  creek.  Here 
is  the  spot  were  the  unfortunate  expedition  of  Abercrombie 
effected  their  landing,  and  on  the  island  they  established 
their  hospital,  on  their  way  to  the  attack  of  Ticondei-oga. 

The  steamboat  passes  on  some  distance  beyond  this 
place,  and  lands  her  passengers  on  the  other  side,  where 
carriages  are  found  in  waiting  to  convey  them  to  Ticon- 
deroga,  three  miles,  over  a  rough  road.  The  boat  waits  Z\ 
hours  for  the  return  of  the  coaches. 

Abercrombie's  army  passed  for  some  part  of  the  way 
along  the  route  we  travel.  Passing  the  Upper  Falls,  which 
are  the  highest,  he  forded  the  creek  above  the  second. 
At  the  falls  near  the  bridge  which  we  pass,  just  above  the 
saw  mills,  was  a  stone  block  house ;  and  there  was  a  re- 
doubt on  the  north  side  of  the  stream  near  the  bridge, 
where,  as  in  several  other  places,  there  was  some  fighting 
to  carry  the  French  out-posts. 

At  the  Upper  Falls  are  several  valuable  saw  mills  and 
forges,  and  the  scenery  is  highly  picturefqne. 

The  Fortress  of  Ticonderoga. — This  famous  old 
fortress,  or  rather  its  remains,  are  distinctly  seen  from 
Lake  Champlain,  though  from  the  direction  by  which  we 
approach  it  they  are  not  discovered  until  we  approach 
near  them.  An  elevated  piece  of  land,  gently  slomng  to- 
wards the  south,  and  ending  abruptly  over  a  bend  of  the 
lake,  appears  partially  covered  with  trees,  and  crowned 
near  its  extremity  with  a  cluster  of  broken  walls  and  chim- 
neys. There  is  a  meadow  on  the  eastern  side,  running  to 
the  base  of  the  ridge,  and  across  this  is  a  foot  path  from 
the  ferry  to  the  fort,  by  the  nearest  way  ;  a  carriage  road 
also  leads  from  the  ferry  to  the  ridge,  and  thence  down  to 
the  same  place. 

The  Old  French  Lines,  wheio  leneral  Abercrombie 


1| 


t    '    , 


li 


'■': 

S 

,      t 

<    ! 

I-    i 

)   i 

; 

r 


11 


^^^^■ii   4i  '■ 

Hf^i" 

B'  ^ 

1 

i 
f 

^^^^^S' 

1 

|Bn 

^H^! 

^^E 

t 
.1 ' 

■i 

^H».i .  i! 

100 


RUINS  OF  THE  FORT. 


was  d(?featccl  in  1758,  are  tho  only  part  of  the  fortification 
which  was  ever  the  scene  of  a  battle.  They  commenced 
on  the  east  side,  at  a  Imttery  of  heavy  cannon  on  the  shore, 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  south  of  the  ferry.  The  remains 
of  tho  breast  work  can  yet  be  seen.  Tlie  lines  were  drawn 
in  a  zig-zag;  first  stretching  off  to  the  right,  along  the  side 
of  marshy  ground,  to  a  cluster  of  bushes,  where  was  a  bat- 
tery ;  and  then  to  the  left  to  tho  verge  of  a  wood,  where 
was  another. 

Their  course  may  be  distinctly  traced  in  this  manner, 
across  the  ridge  of  land  at  its  highest  elevation,  over  to  the 
brow  of  a  steep  bank  looking  towards  the  outlet  of  Lake 
George.  The  woods  which  now  so  much  interrupt  the 
sight,  have  grown  since  the  evacuation  of  the  fortress, 
after  the  revolutionary  war. 

There  is  a  fine  spring  of  water  near  the  western  part 
of  the  French  lines,  where  a  bloody  engagement  occurred 
between  two  hostile  parties  during  the  battle.     Bodies  of 
men  have  been  dug  up  hereabouts  within  a  few  years,  and 
shot  were  formerly  very  frequently  found  in  old  timber. 

Mount  Hope  is  a  hill  about  a  mile  north  from  this 
place.  It  was  occupied  by  Gen.  Burgoyne's  British  lino, 
which  formed  the  right  wing  on  his  approach  to  Ticon- 
deroga.  on  the  2d  of  June,  1777  ;  and  on  the  following 
morning,  while  they  were  approaching  through  the  woods 
unsuspicious  and  undiscovered,  one  of  their  soldiers  was 
observed  and  fired  upon  from  a  salient  angle  of  the  lines. 
This  alarmed  the  British,  who  fired ;  and  the  Americans 
were  so  much  excited  that  they  returned  three  volleys, 
without  orders  from  their  officers.  Strange  as  it  may 
seem  not  a  man  was  killed  on  either  side,  and  the  enemy 
retired  without  attempting  any  thing  further  there,  for  they 
succeeded  in  capturi.ig  the  fortress  in  a  few  days,  by  gaining 
the  top  of  Mount  Defiance  with  their  cannon. 

In  proceeding  from  the  French  lines  south  towards  the 
fortress,  by  a  gentle  descent,  before  arriving  there,  at  the 
distance  of  about  120  yards,  you  pass  an  old  intrench- 
ment ;  and  about  150  yards  further  bring  you  to  the  edge 
of  the  outer  ditch  or  counterscarp,  where  there  was  a  row 
of  palisadoes.  Five  steps  more  bring  you  to  the  wailed 
side  of  the  ditch,  which  is  still  eight  feet  deep  in  some 
places,  and  therefore  impassable  except  where  it  has  been 
partly  filled  up.     Its  breadth  is  generally  about  8  or  9 


i 

o 
3 

q 


o 

C3 

to 

o 

? 

o 

l-H 

I— t 


00 


If 


IH 


'!  I 


rortinrflu  or   ru'ntitir.noitA. 


Kit 


I 


ym'flK,  Mfiil  till'   Willi  nC  ilin  i'itr[ri'on  on   ilm  nilii't  n1«1i'  In 
uniiiM  Illume  y(l  or  '.•.'»  (im'I  lii(',h 

Tin*  l'(irti(>M«  IN  uT  on  (injMiliir  riirin,  nii»l  finltrrirpd  ii  |iir»(n 
Iriu'f  of  Kiniiml,  Ih<1ii();  ilivlilcrl  iiiln  |»(iil<»  l»y  f|M*|i  <lil<'fit<N, 
wlilih  Wi'in  (Ii'('i>imI(<(|  liy  nitiiiDri  iiml  iiiii^Uf'try,  iind  n»M«'r| 
very  iinn'li  In  iIm'  wr'ciirily  •»('  tlii>  |iI(m<".  'I'hti  r-nrriniiirii- 
dfilloii  linlwrtMi  llit'»<<  «lilVfn«ril.  ftiirlM  wiix  ltr|if  ii)»  l»y  xfnnn 
*ttriil't'iiPii<N,  pliiriMl  ill  riiiivi'tiiiril  pimilinnn  itC  llin  iirii;l«iM, 
nil  rti)  (-Jilciiliiti'ii  iiH  t(»  iiitiliii  ihn  ilcMr;iMil.  irilo  lliii  (Jilf-lioK, 
iiiid  llii<  iHfiMit ,  circiiiMiiM  niiil  iiitririiin ;  iiiifl  «i|irri  t(i  tlin 
nuiliMii  niid  Mfiinll  lil'lii«(.  A  /;lntiro  iif  noriin  of  ihimn  wliicli 
li'iniiiii  will  hIiiiw  iIh'  |tl(i(i.  'I'lin  wiilU  wrrn  oii((iiinlly 
inii(di  liij;liff  lliitu  III  iM'f'Mftit,  liitiiif;  iiiiMi'd   by   Hiijiiirnfrur- 

tlll'tM  oC  |)I^M  filllMJ    III   with   I'lU'tll. 

'I'lio  Hnrrrir/m  loniriwl  iiii  nlilori^,  firi'l  Ml"  wiiIIn  wlill  ro- 
nitiin  oC  itll  rMct'pl  lliimn  on  ihn  ciiNtfrti  nidii;  ||if<ii  loitri  i>» 
liiitily  di^liii^nrmliiililt',  'l'h«  ntiniilc,  tn  idumt  r>*i^  yur<U 
otiK,  iriirl  II  ill  liriMidlli.  Tfin  liiirnirkn,  iVr.,  tlio  wiilU 
ol'wliirli  riMniiiii  rn  ilio  iiorfli,  boiiiIi,  iiiid  wnut  nuU'n,  nrn 
iHlilt  of  llir  roii^rliltliio  liiiifHtoiHi  of  wliic.li  thn  rinif^lihoiiriri;; 
rnckH  nro  fonruMl,  two  Hiorirn  hi^li;  »i'id  th«imi  with  tho 
«^lii«urinyH,  Nfvpriil  «•!'  wliir.h  iini  nlniuVtvn;,  nrn  tlm  prinripnl 
olijorln  Hiii'ti  IVotii  iidiHi.diiw.  'Ilin  nriLriinnoji  totlii«  rourt 
ytird  Of  |»iir»ul«s  am  l)nf,w»«nn  llio  iMiildrnjfn,  nn<l  (piiui  iinr- 
row.  I)y  l.lio  Hoiilhorn  ntilninrn,  Klhiin  Allflii  "riU-nul  wifU 
liirt  HI)  rnw  Holdior«  wlinn  hn  mirprinml  tlin  for»rf)H«  on  fim 
littli  May,  177r»;  luiil  on  michinff  ihn  r.oiirt  ynrd  and 
nilling  rtn  flnMMininiaiidor  to  Hurrnndnr,  tho  Hriliwh  ollicor, 
(!iipt.  Dnpliirc^,  uiudo  lii«  appnaranrn  at  a  wiiidr)W  and 
Muhinitti'd,  dtdivciin^^  up  '.\  oflicciH  and  44  rutik  afid  filo. 
In  cotiHiupii'tu-o  of  \)m  c'.onpilo  main,  thi«  important placo 
waH  in  tlio  hiindH  of  thn  Anmric-anH  until  th«?  arrival  of  Jtur- 
goynn  in  1777. 

Tlin  irooftH  in  thn  fjnrr'won  lind  hcromn  Ioomo  dinciplina- 
nan«.  A  hody  of  men  had  hnnn  diHjmtchnd  from  ('on- 
nnrlicnt  to  HiirprlHo  tho  plaw,  and  approached  upon  tho 
oppoHilo  Hhotr,  hut  worn  iinprovifind  with  a  convnyanco 
to  tho  inirn<l('d  point  of  thoii  j^r.inrjirino.  A  countryman, 
who  luirl  h<M<n  in  tho  }ml>it  of  frnrpinntly  visiting  he  fort, 
wiiH  madti  nctjuaintcd  with  their  views,  crnnHvd  tijo  lake 
hy  day  li)[;ht,  went  rnrpfully  into  tho  fort,  and  ohfifirvcd  in 
what  purl  of  tho  pinudu  ground  the  urm»  were  stacked. 


Hi 


ff 


102 


MU.   TKLL  6  GARr*{f. 


Doing  almost  domiciliated  by  the  frequency  of  his  prevloui 
vi8it»,  ho  lounged  mvay  his  time  until  night  approached. 
Ho  then  possessed  himself  of  a  large  bateau  owned  by  the 
garrison,  and  rocn.49ed  the  lake.  Allen  having  joined 
the  band  embarked,  effected  a  landing  about  one  mile 
north  of  the  fort,  und  proceeded  across  the  meadows, 
shrouded  by  the  night,  and  made  good  their  daring  enter- 
prise, by  threatening  the  sentry  and  taking  immediate 
possession  of  the  fire  arms,  as  pointed  out  by  their  uvant 
courier. 

The  battlements  of  Ticonderoga  first  bore  the  flag  of 
independence  This  circumstance  should  of  itself  reifder 
this  ruin,  so  fine  in  other  associations,  interesting  to  the 
traveller. 

At  each  corner  was  a  bastion  or  a  demi-bastion;  and 
under  that  in  the  northeastern  one  is  a  subterranean 
magazine.  The  cellars  south  of  this,  which  belonged  to 
the  demolished  buildings,  and  are  almost  fil'ed  up,  have  a 
room  or  two  with  fire  places  still  distinguishable. 

The  Grenadiers'  Battery,  is  situated  on  a  rocky 
point  towards  the  east  from  the  main  fortress.  They 
were  connected  by  a  covered  way,  the  traces  of  which  are 
distinctly  visible. 

Still  in  advance  of  the  Grenadiers'  Battery-  is  a  small 
work  of  earth,  which  might  have  contained  5  or  6  guns  ; 
while  in  front  of  it,  and  on  the  extreme  point,  two  or  ihree 
more  guns  appear  to  have  been  placed  between  the  rocks, 
to  fire  down  upon  the  water,  about  40  feet  below.  The 
shrubs  and  trees  which  have  grown  up  since  the  evacua- 
tion of  the  place,  with  the  ivy  which  hangs  everywhere 
among  the  rocks,  give  the  spot  a  very  romantic  appear- 
ance ;  and  if  the  visiters  have  furnished  themselves  with 
refreshments,  they  will  not  find  a  more  delightful  place  to 
regale  themselves.  A  little  further  east,  and  under  the 
bank,  is  an  old  stone  house,  formerly  a  store  belonging  to 
the  fort.     Near  tl»is  is  the  Hotel,  See  p.  88  &  99. 

On  a  spot  formerly  occupied  as  the  King's  Garden, 
Mr.  Pell  has  a  fine  garden,  abounding  in  the  choicest  fruits 
imported  from  Europe,  and  transported  from  the  celebrat- 
ed nurseries  of  Long  Island.  Mr.  Pell  has  been  a  very 
successful  propagator  of  the  locust  tree,  {Robinia  Pseudo 
acactrt  of  Linnujua,)  thousands  of  which  are  growing  on 


H   -i 


roUTHESS   OF   TICONDKROOA. 


lOJ 


these  grounds  in  tho  most  flourishing-  manner:  here  is  aldo 
the  Magnolia  Grandijlora,  never  before  cuhivalcd  in  so 
high  a  hititiule;  tho  hor.-e  i:\\ci\n\i  {Castanea  Equinus,) 
and  upwards  of  70  varieties  of  the  gooseberry  from  Eu- 
rope. Hero  also  wo  find  the  beautiful  Catalpa,  and  tho 
Liriodcndron  tulipefcra.  If  it  is  the  intention  of  the 
traveller  to  cross  the  lake,  to  the  neighbouring  Vermont 
shore,  where  are  slill  some  slight  remains  of  Burgoyne's 
intrenchments,  ho  will  be  much  pleased  with  a  walk  across 
the  meadows  to  the  upper  ferry,  a  distance  of  about  3-4  of 
a  mile.  This  will  remind  him,  if  ho  has  been  abroad,  of 
the  park  scenery  of  England ;  and  the  view  of  the  ruins 
from  those  meadows  is  strikingly  benutiful :  the  clumps  of 
trees,  tho  circuitous  route,  the  view  of  Lake  Champlain  on 
the  right,  and  an  amphitheatre  of  wood  on  tho  left,  make 
this  a  most  beautiful  and  interesting  route. 

Between  tho  Grenadiers'  Battery  and  the  fortress,  the 
shore  retains  traces  of  many  little  terraces,  breastworks, 
and  buildings,  such  as  were  probably  work  shops,  barracks, 
3  tores,  (fee. 

From  the  more  elevated  parts  of  the  works  the  visiter 
enjoys,  in  fine  weather,  a  delightful  view  of  the  lake  and 
the  surrounding  country.  On  the  right  is  the  outlet  of 
Lake  George,  winding  through  a  dark  and  narrow  valley, 
and  spreading  out  to  embrace  an  island  of  the  brightest 
verdure;  while  more  immediately  under  the  eye  lies  a 
fertile  little  meadow,  interspersed  with  a  few  trees  and 
clusters  of  shrubs,  and  after  the  hay  has  been  made  and 
stacked,  sometimes  enlivened  by  a  herd  of  horses  or 
cattle. 

Mount  Defiance,  about  800  feet  high,  on  the  summit 
of  which  Gen.  Burgoyne's  troops  showed  themselves  on 
the  morning  of  July  4th,  1777,  with  a  battery  of  heavy 
cannon,  which  they  had  drawn  up  along  the  ridge  by  night, 
and  plantod  in  that  commanding  position,  whence  they 
could  count  the  men  in  the  fort.  The  distance  to  the  sum- 
mit in  a  straight  line  is  about  a  mile,  so  that  the  defence 
of  Ticonderoga  would  have  been  impossible ;  and  on  the 
firing  of  a  few  shots  by  the  British  upon  a  vessel  in  the 
lake,  which  proved  the  range  of  their  guns,  the  Americans 
made  preparations  to  evacuate  the  place,  and  effected  their 
retreat  to  tho  opposite  shore  during  the  night. 

10 


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5.AK2    CHAMTLAIN* 


Mount  iNnEPENDENCE  is  a  hill  of  comparatively  smnll 
elevation  east  of  Mount  Defiance,  and  separated  from  it 
by  the  lake,  which  has  here  reduced  its  size  to  that  of  a 
small  river.  On  a  bank,  just  above  the  water,  are  the  re- 
mains of  a  zig-zag-  battery  for  about  40  or  50  guns,  running 
across  a  little  corn  field  behind  a  house,  and  mukinj?  five  or 
six  angles.  The  Horse  Shoe  Battery  is  traceable  on  an 
elevation  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  the  rear.  A  bridge 
once  connected  Ticonderoga  with  Mount  Defiance,  the 
buttresses  of  which  are  remaining^  to  the  great  annoyance 
•of  the  navigators  of  the  lake;  the  steamboat  passes  to  the 
south  of  them.  On  the  west  shore,  (near  the  stone  store 
house,)  Arnold,  when  pursued  by  the  British,  caused  his 
flotilla  to  be  run  on  shore.  These  hniks  remain  almost  as 
sound  as  when  first  stranded.  A  forty-two  pounder  is  said 
to  havd  ranged  from  the  Horse  Shoe  over  this  channel, 
(now  marked  by  a  buoy,)  and  the  fortress. 

After  the  Revolutionary  war.  about  500  cannon  were 
Jying  about  the  fortress,  lines,  &c.  many  of  them  as  left 
by  the  English,  with  their  trunnions  knocked  off.  A  twen- 
ty-four pounder  was  taken  to  the  forge  at  Fair-Haven, 
some  few  years  ago,  and  discharged  by  the  heat,  after 
lying  loaded  for  above  twenty  years,  and  a  considerable 
time  at  the  bottom  of  the  lake. 

The  mountainous  region  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake 
abounds  with  deer,  and  considerable  numbers  are  killed 
every  season. 

The  Passage  from  Ticonderoga  down  Lake  Champlain 
is  very  pleasant,  abounding,  the  greater  part  of  the  way 
to  Canada,  with  fine  natural  scenes. 

P'lVE  Mile  Point.  The  lake  is  narrow  at  this  place, 
which  is  remarkable  as  the  landing  place  of  Gen.  Bur- 
goyne's  expedition,  as  mentioned  on  p.  100.  Mountains 
appear  in  the  west  and  northwest,  with  occasional  inter- 
vals all  the  way  up  to  Crown  Point;  while  in  the  north,  ia 
a  lofty  and  imposing  range,  with  two  or  three  peaks  al- 
most bald  from  the  height  of  their  elevation.  Summits 
multiply  as  we  proceed,  and  distant  mountains  j.rise  also 
in  the  northeast;  while  Mount  Defiance  and  other  emi- 
nences towards  the  south  bound  the  view  in  that  direc- 
tion. There  are  scattering  farms  and  houses  on  both 
shores. 


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ROLTE  TO  CA5ADA. 


3C5 


The  afiores  are  in  this  part  strewed  with  the  fragments 
of  blue  limestone  rock  with  organic  remains. 

The  immediate  shores  are  generally  low  all  the  way  to 
Crown  Point,  where  the  lake  sudtlenly  tarns  to  the  west 
at  a  right  angle,  and  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  as  sijddenly 
to  the  north  again.  A  low  stretch  of  land  covered  with  a 
young  forest  on  the  left,  conceals  the  approach  to  this  an- 
cient fortress,  which,  for  position,  as  well  as  appearance 
and  history,  mny  be  called  the  twin  sister  of  Ticonderoga.. 

Chimn  ky  Point,  where  the  steamboat  often  receives  and 
lands  passengers,  is  on  the  north  side  of  the  lake,  with  a 
largo  public  house  in  a  pleasant  situation  ;  and  here  is  the 
place  to  stop  if  the  traveller  intends  to  visit  Crown  Point, 
which  is  opposite,  across  a  fen7  3-4  of  a  mile. 

The  Fortress  of  Crown  Point. — There  are  several 
old  works  thrown  up  along  the  shore,  with  little  bays  be- 
tween them.  The  eas^temmost  one  is  called  the  Grena- 
diers' Battery,  the  middle  one  is  the  original  old  Frencb 
fort  of  1731 ,  and  now  encloses  a  garden  ;  and  that  further 
west  is  an  outworlc  to  a  bastion  of  the  fortress.  The 
grwmd  on  which  the  old  fariificationf  stand,  is  owned  by 
Major  J.  Churchill  of  the  U.S.  Army, 

The  fortress  is  situated  abont  a  quarter  of  a  mile  back 
from  the  shore,  and  appears  much  like  Ticond-eroga  from- 
a  distance,  showing  the  walls  and  chimneys  of  the  old 
barracks,  and  walls  of  earth  surrounding  them.  In  regard 
to  its  plan,  however,  it  is  materially  different.  The  for- 
» tress  of  Crown  Point  was  a  star  work,  being  in  the  forn> 
of  a  pentagon,  with  bastions  at  the  angleSr  and  a  strong  re- 
doubt at  the  distance  of  2.50  or  300  yards  in  advance  of 
each  of  them.  The  fortress  is  surrounded  by  a  ditch 
walled  in  with  8ti>r»e,  except  where  it  has  been  blasted 
into  the  solid  rock  of  blue  limestone,  (as  is  the  case  in 
many  parts,  from  tive  to  twenty-five  feet,)  and  even  into 
quartz  rock  which  underlays  it.  Univalve  shells  are 
found  in  the  limestone  rock,  frequently  four  inches  in  di- 
ameter. The  walls  are  about  20  or  25  feet  high,  and 
there  is  a  convenient  path  running  entirely  round  upon  the 
top,  interrupted  only  by  the  gates  at  the  north  and  south 
sides.  Although  much  shaded  by  tall  sumaes,  some  fin» 
views  are  enjoyed  in  making  the  circuit,  which  is  not  fiwf 
nhort  of  half  a  mile. 


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106 


FORTRESS    OF    CROWN    POINT. 


Opposite  the  north  gate  k  a  small  ledge  of  rocks ;  and 
close  by,  the  remains  of  a  covered  or  a  subterraneous  way 
to  the  lake  shore.  On  entering  the  fortress,  the  stranger 
finds  h-mself  in  a  level,  spacious  area,  bounded  on  the  left, 
and  in  front,  by  long  ruinous  buildings  of  stone  two 
stories  high,  and  the  first  2'JO  feet  long,  while  the  ruins  of 
Similar  ones  are  seen  on  two  sides  on  the  right.  This 
parade  is  about  500  feet  in  length.  The  place  was  sur- 
prised by  Col.  Warner  in  1775. 

The  view  from  the  walls  towards  the  north  is  very  fine  : 
looking  down  the  lake,  which  widens  at  the  distance  of  two 
or  three  miles,  you  have  Chimney  Point  on  the  right, 
and  two  other  points  projecting  beyond  the  distant  peak, 
called  Camel's  Hump.  A  range  of  mountains  on  the  west- 
ern shore,  beginning  at  the  distance  of  18  miles,  including 
^^1^  Peak,  gradually  approach  till  they  form  a  near  and 
bold  boundary  to  the  lake  on  the  left,  scattered  with  cleared 
farms  and  houses,  and  then  stretching  away  to  the  south, 
terminate  in  the  mountain  behind.  This  elevation,  although 
It  seems  almost  as  well  calculated  to  command  Crown 
1  oint  as  Mount  Defiance  does  Ticonderoga,  is  not  less  than 
tour  miles  distant. 

Every  thing  about  this  old  fortress  bears  the  marks  of 
ruin.  Two  magazines  were  b'own  up ;  the  timbers  in 
the  south  barracks  are  burnt  black ;  a  portion  of  the 
shingled  roof  which  remains  serves  to  cover  a  little  hay 
mow  and  the  nests  of  robins  ;  while  some  of  the  entrances 
ana  other  parts  are  fenced  up  fur  a  sheep  fold.  The 
grcund  around  it  is  much  covered  with  frag-ments  of 
blasted  rocks,  and  particularly  at  the  south,  with  the  ruins 
of  old  buildings  The  trees  which  are  seen,  have  grown 
since  the  evacuation  of  the  place  :  and  on  one  of  the  angles 
IS  an  inscription  of  the  date  of  the  fortress,  1756,  when  it 
was  constructed  on  a  greatly  enlarged  plan,  by  Gen.  Am- 
herst, at  an  expense  of  two  millions  of  pounds  sterling. 

In  1777,  the  British  had  a  fleet  on  Lake  Champlain, 
composed  of  the  following  vessels  :  ship  Inflexible,  Capt. 
I  ringle,  carrying  18  twelve  pound^^rs  ;  two  schooners,  one 
with  14  the  other  with  12  six  pounders  ;  a  flat-bottomed 
radeau  with  six  twenty-fours  and  six  twelves;  and  20 
small  craft,  each  carrying  a  gun  from  nine  to  twenty-four 
pounders,  and  several  long  boats,  beside  boats  for  bag<raffe. 
stores.  &c.  °  *  ' 


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ROUTK   TO   CANADA. 


107 


Tlio  Americans  had  only  two  brigs,  one  corvette,  one 
Bloop,  three  galleySf  and  eight  gondolas,  the  largest  vessel 
carrying  only  12  six  and  four  pounders.  These  were- 
under  the  command  of  Arnold,  who  drew  them  up  between 
the  island  of  Valincourt  and  the  western  shore,  where 
they  were  atiackod.  They  fought  four  hours,  and  the 
British  at  la^t  retreated  ;  but  while  making  his  way  to- 
wards Crown  Point,  Arnold  was  overtaken,  and  nearly  all 
the  squadron  fled  up  the  lake,  passing  this  place  which 
was  evacuated.  Arnold  remained  fighting  as  long  as  pos- 
eible,  and  did  not  leave  his  vessel  until  she  had  takei* 
fire. 

Proceeding  down  the  lake,  the  breadth  of  it  soon  in- 
creases, and  at  the  two  islands  on  the  right  it  is  about  l^i 
miles  across.     A  little  further  is 

Put-ht-Bayy  on  the  eastern  shore,  with  an  island  of  the 
same  name. 

Sloop  Island,  17  miles  from  Burlington,  is  low  in  the' 
middle,  and  contains  several  trees,  which  look  not  unlike 
masts.  It  was  mistaken  for  a  sloop  in  a  misty  day,  in  the 
Revolutionary  or  French  war,  and  fired  upon  by  a  vessel,, 
whence  its  name. 

At  HARTFoanthe  lake  suddenly  opens  to  the  breadth  of 
peveral  miles,  and  a  new  scene  is  presented  to  view.  On 
the  west  side  is  a  rounded  island  covered  with  pine  trees,, 
like  much  of  the  shore  previously  seen,  and  separated  from 
the  main  land  only  by  a  narrow  rent  of  about  fifteen  feet. 
Apparently  just  within  this  aperture  is  a  rude  arch  of  rock,, 
like  ihe  remains  of  an  ancient  hridije. 

Burlington,  7-5  miles  from  Whitehall.  This  is  the 
largest  town  on  Lake  Champlain,  and  is  situated  in  a 
commanding  as  well  as  a  delightful  position.  The  lake 
suddenly  widens  as  you  approach  it  from  the  south,  and  a 
fine  semicircular  bay  puts  up  to  it  from  the  east,  sur- 
rounded by  u  crescent  of  high  ground,  under  the  shelter  of 
which  the  town  is  situated.  The  University  of  Vermont 
is  330  feet  above  the  lake.  The  view  from  the  top  «)f  the 
hills  is  truly  admirable  ;  embracing  in  the  foreground  the 
elegant  gardens  of  some  of  the  wealthier  inhabitants, 
the  College,  with  the  streets  of  Burlington  below,  the  curv- 
ing form  of  the  bay,  the  whole  breadth  of  the  lake,  here 
Ifea  miles  acros*,   otid  a  noble  chuiu  of  distant  blue  mouu- 

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i^r.AltsSURGtti 


tains  on  the  opposite  side.  The  road  to  Windsor  by  the 
Gulf  is  very  good  and  interesting'.  A  steamboat  goes  to 
Pinttsburgh  and  returns  daily. 

Port  Kent,  10  miles,  is  a  small  village  on  the  western 
shore,  sixteen  miles  from  Burlinston.  It  serves  as  a  port 
to  the  iron  works  established  a  little  back  in  the  country, 
where  there  is  a  vast  quantity  of  ore. 

The  Walled  Rocks,  and  the  Falls  of  the  An  Sable^ 
These  are  natural  curiosities  of  a  superior  kind,  although, 
from  their  secluded  situation,  they  have  not  yet  attracted 
general  attention.  To  visit  them,  the  traveller  may  land 
ut  Port  Kent,  take  a  carriage  in  waiting  to  Keeseville, 
4  m.  a  village  where  an  active  business  is  carried  on  in 
lumber  and  iron.  There  are  saw-mills  at  a  fall  in  the 
river.  A  guide  will  be  desirable.  First,  1^  m.  northeast, 
passing  through  a  fine  wood  near  the  road,  you  reach  the 
brow  of  a  rock,  and  have  a  view  of  Watson's  Falls. 
This  is  a  charming  object.  A  letter  to  the  editor  of  the 
"Northern  Traveller''  describes  it  as  offering  a  "  striking 
resemblance  to  a  magnificent  chandelier  of  three  tiers,  60 
feet  high,  the  drops  of  water  sparkling  like  diamonds  in 
motion,  and  prismatic  colours,  like  those  of  the  rainbow, 
floating  over  the  whole." 

You  next  pass  a  cluster  of  iron  works,  called  Birming- 
ham, amidst  a  series  of  waterfalls  ;  and  then,  crossing  the 
stream,  and  proceeding  some  distance  through  the  woods, 
alight  and  walk  to  the  Walled  Rocks.  These  are  preci* 
pices  of  stratified  rocks,  about  100  feet  high,  overhanging 
the  stream,  two  of  which  are  so  uniform,  and  separated  so 
precisely  by  deep  and  narrow  channels  cut  down  almost  to 
the  water's  level,  that  they  seem  ready  to  fall  every  in* 
stant.  When  viewed  directly  endwise,  they  appear  like 
tall  chimneys,  only  a  few  feet  in  width  ;  while,  at  the  same 
time,  they  lean  very  perceptibly  beyond  their  narrow 
bases.  Between  them  is  a  staircase,  built  by  some  of  the 
lovers  of  nature  in  the  neighbouring  village  of  Keeseville, 
for  the  accommodation  of  visiters.  By  this  you  may  de- 
scend to  the  bottom  ?  and  there  the  scene  is  highly  impres- 
sive and  peculiar,  while  the  spectator  sees  with  dread, 
that  the  point  of  view  on  the  summit  is  on  a  thin  project- 
ing shelf  of  rock. 

Plattsburgh,  eight  miles^     This  is  a  town  of  consi- 


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noUTE   TO   CANADA. 


109 


datable  importance,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Saranac> 
ancl  just  bchinrl  thd  high  and  strep  bank  of  ihe  lake,  on 
which  is  a  line  of  forts  erected  for  the  defence  of  the  place. 
The  town  commands  a.  fine  view. 

The  St.  Luwrence  and  Champlain  railroad  route  has 
been  surveyed  from  Plattsburgh  to  Ogdensburgh,  120  m. 
and  the  expense  estimated  at  about  one  and  a  half  miU 
lions,  crossing  Chatcaugay  river  east  of  Malone.  Another 
route  has  been  surveyed  up  the  north  bank  of  Au  Sable 
river  across  the  highlands  and  down  Racket  river.  The 
summit  of  the  former  near  the  Chateimgay  is  1733  feet 
above  tide  ;  and  that  of  the  latter,  on  the  highlands,  only 
1277.     The  lake  here  is  87,  and  at  Whitehall  93. 

Plattsburgh  was  the  scene  of  a  land  and  naval  battle 
during  the  late  war  with  preat  Britain. 

The  Battle  of  Plattsburgh.  When  Gen.  Macomb  was 
stationed  at  Plattsburgh,  Sir  George  Prevost  came  from 
Canada  with  an  army,  and  occupying  the  village,  stood 
ready  to  attack  the  American  troops,  who  were  in  posi- 
tion on  the  elevated  ground,  between  the  east  bank  of  the 
river  Saranac  and  the  precipitous  shore  of  the  lake,  where 
a  number  of  forts,  &c.  are  still  to  be  seen.  Com.  McDo- 
nough  was  at  that  time  on  the  lake  with  the  American 
squadron ;  and  hearing  of  the  approach  of  Capt.  Downie 
with  the  British  ships,  extended  his  line  between  Hospi- 
tal Island  and  Cumberland  Head,  where  he  received  and 
fought  the  enemy  with  such  success  as  to  capture  all  his 
vessels.  The  action  continued  two  hours  and  twenty 
minutes,  and  was  performed  in  full  sight  of  the  armies. 
Capt.  Downie's  ship,  the  Confiance,  had  105  shot  in  her 
hull,  and  the  Saratoga  59,  and  was  twice  on  fire.  This 
battle  caused  the  retreat  of  Prevost,  and  relieved  that 
part  of  the  country  from  being  overrun. 

MoDonough's  Farm  lies  on  that  part  of  Cumberland 
Head  which  is  opposite  the  scene  of  his  battle,  and  con- 
sists of  200  acres.  It  was  presented  to  hmi  by  the  Legis- 
lature of  Vermont,  in  gratitude  for  his  victory. 

Chazy,  15  miles, — Rouse's  Point,  12  miles.  The 
country  hereabouts  is  very  uninteresting:  for  the  level 
country  has  begun  which  extends  far  into  Canada.  The 
appearance  of  the  banks  is  quite  uniform  ;  they  being  low, 


ii 


'it'' 


it- 


v\\ 


ii^l 


110 

and  in 


•T.  Jous's. 


^-i^'n  ma„,  „lac„,  „,„„„  „,,^„^  ^^  ^^^ 


waters  of  the 


angler  ^^  'SlI'iro'n^Ter. '''  ^"^^  "'•^«'  -"^H 
low,  faced  for  .  consider^hu  }  *"'^  •"*^«''  «"d  very  nar. 
Sentries  are  posted  nj^ff't?"?^  "^^  »"°^her  battery, 
•ucceecs,  and^  the  officer  J'  n,"  ^''"'-  ^^'  "hip  yard 
«tory  bu.lding..  wiihSa!"  '"'  ^*'""''""^  neat,  one- 
The  expedii  oT/  aVa  ,  '  f'^^T  '""'^^"^  '«'^  o"  • 

sold/ers,  under  General,  si  7*^''^''"^  ^"d  New. York 
ceeded  down  1  ake  rh!  .  "^'^^  *"^  Montgomery,  pro. 
and  Crown  Po  nt  and  too? '"  ''^'''  ^''"»  ^icond  la 
The  orher.  ^h^ch  ^ns  ltT'7  f^  ^^'^  «"^  ^°'« 
quently,  consisted  of  a  iar^  ol-'^^^^^P^'^^^^d  subse- 
and  proceeded  through  tlf J  Id  J;  ""^^^  General  Arnold, 
Ma.ne,  for  Quebec.     The  fo^lt'T"'  '"  ^^e  district  of 

Wencroaeh.,to::;tl:^-SniHe^-er.ti^ 

Sx.JoHx's.CX^„,ea«.rf,,)io^,7.,. 

and  aUhetd"o7Xt!:r  1^  ^'^,  '^^^^^  ^'^^  -P'^«. 
treal :  (J6  ,n,les  by  la nT and  9  b  '*'''°'^  ^*^^''^  '°  ^'^n- 
rence,  in  a  steamboat  )  ^'^  ^^'^^  °"  '^^  St.  Law. 

fected  wit'h  the  exp^dumn  of^cTn  M^''''^  '^''^''  «-•""- 
this  country.  Whilo  Lr  ^"-  Mont<romery  against 
t.oned  at  iL  aui  N^x  nm? '^r^^^'  '^?"P«  ^^^^  «"- 
and  Schuyler  invested  , he  fort  '  ?'r''''  ^'^n'^O'nery 
-on  of  5  or  600  troops,  be'ide  Co  P  """T'''^  ^  ^^^^"- 
<^o,n,nanded  by  Major  Predion  T?  ^^"^f^""'"'  «"d  w^, 
and  they  d.d  not  caphulatc";!!  '"^"'"''^•^^  ^  ^•«^'<«. 

render  of  Cham bh'  nor    ,ftt  A°'"'  •''"'"  ^'"^^^  ^'^^  «"••- 

the.  trencho.,  to  the  wa  1    of  thtTrr^TH'^'  ^°""^' 

"le  ion.      1  hey  then  ob» 


PM  ,1'; 


/'» 


aters  of  the 

>  side,  with 
i  very  nar- 
ler  battery. 
B  shipyard 
nput,  one- 
lid  out. 
JMsifted  of 
New.York 
mery,  pro- 
condcrogtt 
>|JX  Noix. 
'd    subse- 
il  Arrioid, 
iisirict  of 
'  a   little 
Is  formed 

erestinp, 
»ter,  the 
ind. 


e  rapids, 
to  JV.on- 
>t.  Law* 

r  atten- 
Is,  con- 
agajnat 
re   sta- 
^omery 
i  iL^arri- 
id  was 
weeks, 
e  nur- 
roinrht 
'II  ob- 


'^i 


^nl^ 


11     . 


«•,./.•)• 


«« 


..^.tfKv     ■''--* 


Cai 
wi 

Ui 
tci 
pe 

ce 

CI 

St 
th( 
B( 

sc 
wi 
of 
de 

un 

sal 
su 

8U 

an 

sai 
flo 
fac 
of 
a  y 
fe] 

rei 
mi 
ov 
by 
ex 
R 

fo 
la 

hi 


aOUTf   TO   r^Si.ZiA, 


111 


tained  possession  of  17  brass  pieces,  22  iron,  7  mortars, 
with  balls,  bombs,  &c.  &c. 

The  Canadian  iiiioney  is  different  from  that  of  the 
United  States;  but  in  conocqiieiicc  of  the  continual  in- 
tercourse, the  latter  passes  currently.  Nine  sous  or  cop- 
pers, (which  are  of  various  and  sometimes  curious 
stamps,)  equal  six  cents.  Two  sous  nearly  Id.  and  20 
cents  a  shilling. 

A  pleasant  road  from  St.  John's  to  Montreal,  is  by 
Chambly   and  Longueil,  (for  which,  see  Index.) 

Tho  River  Richelieu  sometimes  takes  the  names  of 
St.  John's  and  Sorel,  in  consequence  of  its  running  by 
those  towns.  Several  mountains  are  in  sight,  as  Belceil^ 
Boucherville,  &c. 

The  Rapids  may  be  regarded  as  a  specimen,  on  a  small 
scale,  of  the  numerous  rapids  in  the  St,  Lawrence,  which 
will  hereafter  excite  the  interest,  if  not  the  apprehension 
of  the  stranger.  The  bed  of  the  Richelieu  has  a  rapid 
descent  in  several  places,  where  it  comes  immediately 
under  observation,  and  becomes  so  shallow  as  to  be  pas- 
sable for  the  flattest  boats  only  during  the  floods.  In  the 
summer  it  is  generally  only  a  few  inches  deep,  ard  the 
surface  broken  by  numerous  stones  of  all  sizes,  and  here 
and  there  by  little  waterfalls  near  the  shore.  At  the 
same  time  the  banks  are  low  and  flat ;  the  houses  of  one 
floor,  whitewashed,  and  built  at  nearly  equal  distances, 
facing  the  river;  and,  in  short,  the  general  character 
of  a  scene  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  may  be  imagined  from 
a  view  here,  by  making  allowance  for  superior  size  and 
fertility. 

It  has  been  proposed  to  make  a  canal  to  the  St.  Law- 
rence ;  but  it  is  said  that  the  channel  of  the  St.  John's 
might  be  improved  by  stone  walls  to  confine  the  water 
over  these  rapids.  The  Chambly  rapids  might  be  passed 
by  a  short  canal;  and  the  only  remaining  obstructions 
except  those  at  the  mouth  are  at  St.  Theresa  and  MiUe 
Roches. 

The  inhabitants,  out  of  the  towns,  have  the  aspect  of 
foreigners,  m  dress,  countenance,  manners,  customs,  and 
language.  Their  fashions  are  antique,  and  many  of  them 
have  not  been  changed  for  ages :  the  men  wear  the  Ca,- 


112 


RAILROAD    TO    LAPn.\IRlfi. 


!ii; 


hi: 


,1  ■ 
i  i 


nadian  jacket,  cap,  or  hat,  red  sash,   and   moccasin  of 
rough  leather      The  women  work  in  the  field,  and  all  of 
them  speak  French,  generally  without  knowing  a  word  of 
any  other  language.     The  farms   will  be  observed,  laid 
out  in  strips  of  1  or  200  acres,  flat,  broad,  and  1,  2,  or 
even  3  miles  in  length  ;  and  the  system  of  farming  is  ex- 
tremely bad,  as  will  be  discovered  at  once,  by  the  acres 
that  are  consigned   to  the  useless  and  destructive  little 
Canada  thistle.     There  is  no  such  thing  known  here  as 
the  doctrine  of  a  rotation  of  crops,  and  land  is  recovered 
to  fertility  by   lymg  fallow,  except  that  lately  the  use  of 
manure  has  begun  to  be  resorted  to  in    a  small  degree. 
1  he  horses  are  of  a  small  breed,  well  known  in  the  north- 
ern states,  by  the  name  of  the  country.     They  are  small 
and  slow,  but  powerful  and  hardy.     Many  of  them  are 
driven  across  the  line,  and  large   horses  introduced  into 
the  towns  in  return.     The  value  of  a  common  Canadian 
horse  is  about  $40  ;  and  of  a  good  one,  $60. 

There  is  vtiry  little  to  be  seen  on  this  road  to  interest 
the  traveller.  The  landscape  is  unvarying ;  the  inhabit- 
ants as  well  as  the  soil  are  poor,  and  there  is  nothing  that 
deserves  even  the  name  of  i  village.  We  pass  a  house 
now  arid  then,  dignified  by  a  tall  pole  or  mast  raised  m 
front  of  It,  which  is  a  singular  mark  of  distinct  on  con- 
ceded to  officers  of  militia,  and  usually  adopted  by  those 
ot  the  lowest  grades. 

The  people  have  healthy  countenances,  inclining  to 
round  faces  at^d  thick  lips.  Many  of  them  show  the  up-  • 
per  iront  teeth  when  silent;  and  their  aspect  denotes  a 
want  of  education,  which  is  the  real  cause  of  the  hack- 
vvard  condition  of  society  in  Canada.  They  are  all  Pa- 
pists ;  and  the  churches  seen  here  and  there  upon  the 
road,  are  devoted  to  the  service  of  the  Komish  church. 

One  of  the  most  singular  traits  in  the  domestic  ar- 
rangements of  the  Canadians,  is  building  the  oven  not 
only  out  of  doors,  like  the  D-uch,  but  directly  over  the 
pig  Sly. 

The  mountain  from  which  the  city  of  Montreal  derived 
Its  name,  and  which  ruses  immediately  behind  it,  may  be 
discovered  at  a  groat  distance;  and  the  hoiue  of  Mr. 


ROD  IK   TO   CANADA. 


113 


McTavish  may  be  perceived,  like  a  white  spot,  a  little 
distance  up  its  side. 

Some  timo  before  reaching  the  river,  yoii  pass  an  ex- 
tensive common,  lying  on  the  south  side  of  the  road,  and 
then  the  town  of 

Laprairib.  This  is  a  large  town,  from  which  steam> 
boats  cross  to  Montreal,  9  miles.  The  place  is  built  after 
the  Canadian  fashion ;  and  very  few  of  the  inhabitants 
speak  English.  The  streets  are  narrow,  the  houses  low, 
and  nothing  is  to  be  seen  worthy  of  particular  notice,  ex- 
cepting a  nunnery  and  the  church,  both  which  may  seem 
curious  to  persons  who  are  not  familiar  with  Popish  coun- 
tries ;  though  of  inferior  interest  to  those  of  iMontreal 
and  Quebec.  The  nuns  posseas  a  large  tract  of  land, 
nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  which  is  surrounded  by 
a  high  wall :  and  they  devote  some  of  their  time  to  the 
care  of  the  sick,  and  the  education  of  girls. 

The  view  of  Montreal  from  the  wharf  is  uninterrupted. 
The  city  is  distinguished  at  the  distance  of  9  miles,  by 
its  thick  mass  of  buildings,  roofed  with  sheets  of  tin, 
and  overtopped  by  church  spires,  shining  wiiii  the  same 
metal.  Behind  it  rises  a  fine  mountain,  spotted  with  or- 
chards ;  on  the  right,  down  the  St.  Lawrence,  is  the  for- 
tified island  of  St.  Helen;  and  on  the  left,  Nuns'  Island, 
and  several  smaller  ones  at  a  distance,  through  which  are 
seen  the  sheets  of  white  foam  caused  by  the  rapids  The 
shores  arc  low  and  perfectly  flat  in  every  direction ; 
which,  with  the  wide  expanse  of  water,  gives  an  aspect 
of  tiresome  monotony  and  extension  to  thft  scene.  Uni- 
formity will  be  found  characteristic  of  almost  the  whole 
voyage  to  Quebec. 

The  current  of  the  river  is  extremely  rapid,  particular- 
ly near  those  parts  where  the  surface  is  broken  by  rocks ; 
but  the  steamboats  are  supplied  with  engines  compara- 
tively powerful,  and  are  able  to  effect  the  passage  with 
facility  and  in  safety.  An  hour  is  generally  spent  in  go- 
ing, and  from  1^  to  3  in  returning.  It  is  impossible,  how- 
ever, for  any  boat  to  go  through  the  current  without  being 
borne  rapidly  down  in  some  places  ;  and  there  is  a  part 
of  the  river  near  the  middle,  where  the  water  is  clear,  and 
the  rock*  are  cadly  dcon  on  the  bottom,  as  the  boats  glide 


t       -i'l 


I  u 


i    !  . 


i-f' 


M 


I     • 


« 


1-     n' 


in 


•iiji 


1  i  I 


111 


«T.  John's. 


on  abovo  them.  In  returning,  the  boats  sometimes  pass 
between  two  rocks,  near  the  rapids,  that  on  the  east  be- 
ing under  water.  Here  the  river  is  much  agitated,  and 
Eomeiimes  throws  the  water  on  deck,  but  without  any 
danger. 

A  large  tinned  roof  on  the  left,  with  a  small  steeple, 
belongs  to  the  convent  of  Gray  Nuns  ;  further  back  is 
the  Recollet  Church;  then  the  French  Parish  Church, 
near  which  is  seen  the  Great  Cathedral.  The  English 
Episcopal  church  has  a  tall  pyramidal  spire;  and  that 
which  rises  farther  to  the  right,  and  near  the  shore,  is  the 
church  of  Bon-secours  From  some  plares  may  be  seen 
the  top  of  Nelson's  monument,  with  several  other  remark- 
able objects,  particularly  the  barracks,  on  the  right,  behind 
the  remnant  of  the  old  city  wall. 

MONTREAL. 

The  landing  place  is  unpleasant,  and  the  stranger  may 
be  struck  with  the  narrowness  of  the  streets,  the  lowness^ 
and  heavy  aspect  of  the  houses,  which  are  of  stone  or  plas- 
tered  lo  resemble  it:  but  all  this  is  in  conformity  with  the 
fashion  of  the  country  ;  and  Montreal  contains  some  fine 
buildings,  and  other  objects  worthy  of  notice,  togel.ier 
■with  a  viciP'7  which  in  the  warm  season  of  the  year  is 
truly  agrees:    le. 

Those  who  remain  but  a  short  time  in  this  city,  may 
easily  pay  a  hasty  visit  to  the  principal  objects  of  cu- 
riosity ;  and  are  recommended  to  take  a  walk  through  the 
two  principal  streets,  and  to  notice  the  following  build- 
ings and  places. 

At  the  north  end  of  St.  Paul's-street  are  the  barracks. 
Just  above  the  Masonic  Hall,  is  the  French  Church  of 
Bon-secours,  which,  like  the  other  Canadian  religious 
buildings  generally,  is  formed  mu<^h  on  the  plan  of  those 
in  France.  The  roofs  are,  however,  generally  covered 
with  tin.  This  is  near  the  northern  limit  of  Montreal, 
beyond  which  begins  the  Quebec  suburb. 

Masonic  Hall,  on  the  the  eastern  side  of  the  street. 

Theatre,  adjoining  the  Masonic  Hall. 

Market  Place  and  Nelson's  Mouument.  Then  fol- 
lows a  double  .ow  of  shops.    On  the  east  »ide  are  seve- 


MONTREAL 


115 


ThUr^K^  '^"""^  l"\''''  °^  ^"^i^"  manufacture  for  sale 

%',      "  '^  intended  to  visit  them. 
Ihe   Hotel  Dieu,  or  Convent  of  Black  Nuns    is   a 
long  stone  building,  on  the  west  side  of  St.  Paul's  street 

X-te^rSt^%''  -1?^^^'— ^-  l"^a:  three 
wings     one    on  St.    Joseph Vstreet   being  the  hospital 

One  of  the  doors  on  St.  Paul's-street  leads  into  the  pubHc 
chapel,  and  another  into  the  nunnery,  that  i.  the  few 
apart,r,ents  which  are  accessible  to  visiter  .     T^e  nuni 

?here'i:7hr.f "'.'''  ^"^"^^^^  '^  ^--  ^^e -"" ' 
and  that  nf  h^  ^^''^'"  '"  '^"'^  "^«'^-  ^^^is  convent, 
and  that  of  the   congregational   nuns  occupy   the  whole 

"^TJ  r^^^l^^"?  to  Notre  Dame-street.      ^^ 

worthy  of  1  t^f '  r^'  ''^'"  "''«  "  ^"  C^"^'^^'  -'«  "n. 
worthy  ot  a  traveller's  attention,  except  as  snecimen,  of 

institutions  which  have  exerted  a  powekl  and  unS^ 

influence  on  all  nations  who  have  tSerated  them.    3 

ed   by  the  superstition    which   they   perpetuate,   framed 

on  a  model    borrowed   from  the   heathenism   of  Sm 

supported  by  fanaticism,  tolerated  by  ignorance,  gofeTnl 

ed  by  a  power  as  distant  as  Rome,    Ld  used  by  it  to 

foster  Ignorance,    and  to   sustain  its   authority,  co^nven^ 

fng^h?pe:pir"''  '""P""°  ^'^  manners,%nd  enslav- 
in  Norrh^'""  Cathedral  is  probably  the  largest  church 
fiace   a  Armes.      It  was   commenced   in  1825.   and  i«» 

u^i^' iZt^7.:r' ''  ^'^  ^"^^p-"  -«5''«  "the 

Vi    i  ""*.  ^^^^   centuries.     It  is    of  the   plainest 

style  that  can  bear  the  name  of  Gothic:  an  exuberance 

altZTfcLtr  ^"^^"^^^^^"^  -''^  ^"--  -= 

widl  "  uil^V''^^  ^r""  r''  '°  "^^*'  ^"'l  134  feet 
Trs    each  200  fetrTl^  \^''''^  '^^  quadrangular  tow- 

a  each  end  Th.  '*'^'-  '^""^  ^'^  """'^  ^'^"^'  '^^'^  'wo 
at  each  end.     fhe  curtain,   or  space  between  the  front 

towers,  IS  73  feet  by  119,  and  has  parapets.  There  a^ 
five  public  entrances  and  three  private  o  the  first  floo^ 
ro'oornersons''   T^f""    J''    ^""^^^  can   contaTn 

*U,UUU   persons,    whirh     nmnKr...    j,,^-  .  .  ^     -■ 


it  ■■ 


I  1 


11 


and  di8< 


I' 


K 


116 


THE  C0LLEG2. 


perse  in  a  few  minutes.  The  eastern  vrindow  over  the 
nigh  altar  is  32  by  64  feet,  and  is  to  be  divided  by 
shafts  and  muUions  for  stained  glass.  The  ceiling  is  80 
feet  high,  groined  and  partly  supported  by  a  double 
range  of  grouped  columns,  intersected  by  rails. 

There  are  seven  altars  for  the  nuns.  The  floor  rises 
p-adually  from  the  entrance  to  ihe  high  altar.  The 
house  is  to  be  warmed  by  heated  air  from  stoves  under 
the  floor.  The  exterior  is  faced  with  hewn  stone  from 
the  mountain. 


Gra^  Nuns'    Convent,  a 


large 


stone  buildins:,  about 


&' 


410  feet  in  length,  is  in  the  south  eastern  part  of  the  city. 
These  nuns  have  a  large  number  of  orphans  under  their 
charge,  and  are  not  forbidden  to  go  out,  so  that  they  may 
be  seen  in  the  streets  dressed  in  gray  hooded  cloaks. 

The  Seminary  (La  Seminaire)  is  an  antique  build- 
ing, and  contains  a  library  of  about  6,000  volumes. 

The  College  is  a  large  building  of  stone,  three  sto- 
ries high,  erected  in  1819  out  of  the  funds  of  the  Semi- 
nary. It  has  a  front  of  about  150  feet,  with  wings 
projpctfng  in  front  and  rear,  which  make  the  whole 
length  about  220  feet.  It  has  a  spacious  yard  on  the 
south  side,  for  a  play  ground,  succeeded  by  a  fine  gar- 
den. In  order  to-  guard  against  fire,  large  iron  doors 
are  hung  in  the  passages,  in  ,  ach  a  manner  that  by 
ehutting  them  the  whole  building  may  be  divided  into 
three  parts,  each  fire   proof. 

It  contains  about  300  students,  who  are  divided  into 
eight  classes,  to  each  of  which  is  devoted  a  year,  with 
the  exception  of  the  two  last,  which  occupy  but  six 
months  apiece,  so  that  the  whole  course  of  instruction 
is  finished  in  seven  years.  Many  of  the  pupils,  however^- 
leave  the  institution  before  completing  the  course. 

The  Chapel  is  in  the  south  wing ;  and  the  rest  of  the 
building  is  divided  into  recitation  rooms,  and  bed  rooms, 
the  former  of  which  are  hung  with  maps  and  pictures  oF 
saints,  and  the  latter  supplied  with  crosses  and  fonts. 
The  price  of  instruction  is  about  eighty  dollars  per 
year,  and  some  of  the  pupils  have  allowances  made  them;- 
particularly  those  designed  for  the  church,  who  assist  ia 
instruction  by  day,  and  study  by  night.     There  is  a  prepap- 


i.        t 


WONTRIAL. 


117 


■atory  school  connected  with  the  colleg-e.     One  of  the  in- 
structers  always  oversees  the  boys  in  their  recreations. 

Returning  to  the  square,  and  entering  another  princi- 
pal street  running  parallel  to  St.  Paul's,  you  pass  nume- 
rous respectable  and  some  elegant  dwellings,  leaving 
the  Parish  Church  and  the  new  Cathedral  on  the  east. 

The  Wesleyan  Chapel,  the  American  Congregational, 
and  the  English  Episcopal  Churches  are  in  this  part 
of  the  town. 

The  Parade,  a  handsome  piece  of  ground,  with  a 
walk,  where  the  troops  are  drilled  every  morning,  gene- 
rally at  10  o'clock. 

Island,  of  St.  Helen,  or  GranVs  Island.  This  is 
held  by  the  British  government,  for  a  military  position 
and  depot.  It  is  principally  covered  with  trees ;  but  has 
a  beautiful  garden  behind  the  quarters  of  the  officers  ;  and 
a  fine  road  winding  round  from  the  landing  place,  on  the 
south  end,  (where  are  some  remains  of  old  works,  and  a 
new  battery,)  to  a  rocky  eminence  over  the  arsenal,  which 
IS  opposite  the  northern  quarter  of  the  town.  This  rock 
is  about  eleven  feet  higher  than  the  most  elevated  partn 
of  the  city;  and  the  view  from  it  is  handsome,  with  a  wild 
ravine  just  below. 

The  arsenal  and  storehouses  form  three  buildings,  with 
a  narrow  yard  between  them,  about  125  feet  in  length. 
The  batteries  range  on  the  river  and  town,  and  are  fur- 
nished with  neat  barracks,  a  magazine,  &c. 

The  Mountain  of  Montreal  offers  an  extensive  and 
■delightful  view,  and  should  by  no  means  be  forgotten  by 
those  who  have  an  opportunity  to  undertake  the  excur- 
sion. It  is  better  calculated  to  afford  an  idea  of  the  country, 
as  well  as  to  delight  the  eye,  than  any  other  point  to  which 
an  excursion  can  be  made.  Yet  it  is  recommended,  if  the 
traveller  stays  long  enough,  to  take  a  ride  or  two  in  differ- 
ent directions,  after  having  visited  this  favourite  spot. 

There  are  different  ways  of  reaching  the  summit  of  the 
mountain :  on  foot,  by  an  intricate  route  from  the  southern 
part  of  the  city ;  on  horseback,  or  in  a  carriage,  to  the 
ridge  ;  or  round  the  north  end  to  the  rear.  There  is  also 
a  foot  path  up  the  north  end. 

The  country  spread  out  to  view  on  arriving  at  this  comr 
manding  height,  is  a  plain  of  such  vast  extent  as  to  ap. 


IK     i    •; 


i! 


9   4        '^    ' 


118 


MONTREAL   M0L\NTA1». 


pear  in  many  directions  quite  boundless.  In  fact,  it  stretch- 
es much  farther  than  would  be  imagined ;  for  all  the  way 
to  Quebec,  the  river's  banks  present  the  same  appearance. 

rhe  spectator  faces  the  east.  The  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, almost  precipitous,  is  thickly  covered  with  trees, 
which  soon  give  place  below  to  a  smooth  descent,  decUning 
to  the  base,  chiefly  devoted  to  pasturage,  on  the  eleva- 
tion of  which  stands  M'Tavish's  house.  A  beautiful 
display  of  cultivated  fields  succeeds  on  the  level,  divided 
by  high  palings,  and  scattered  with  a  few  houses.  Below 
a  moderate  descent,  which  appears  like  an  old  bank  of  the 
liver,  gardens  and  dwelHngs  begin  to  increase;  and 
behind  a  succeeding  one,  of  a  similar  description  are 
suburbs  of  the  city. 

East,  on  the  horizon  is  Boucherville  Mountain;  and 
ov.>r  it  is  seen  more  indistinctly,  BeloDil  Mountain.  Tho 
pl:\;n  country  between  the  Sorel  and  St.  Lawrence  is 
divided  mto  innumerable  fields,  with  scattering  houses. 
In  the  same  direction  is  seen  St.  Helen's,  or  Grant's 
Island ;  and  in  a  direction  with  the  south  end  of  it,  the 
steeple  of  Bon-secour  church.  North  of  this  are  the  Que- 
bec suburbs,  beginning  near  the  barraok  8 ;  the  Waterworks, 
and  Baths.  Nearer,  are  seen  St.  Louis  and  St.  Lawrence 
suburbs. 

S.  S.  East,  on  the  opposite  shore.  La  Prairie;  and 
nearly  over  it,  the  site  of  St.  John's,  which  is  not  distin- 
guiiihable.  In  a  range  with  them,  are  Nuns'  Island,  and 
Nuns'  Farm,  the  latter  on  this  shore.  The  river  is  3J 
miles  wide.  The  suburbs  on  the  south  side  of  the  city 
are  St.  Antoine,  Ricolet.  St.  Anne's,  and  St.  Joseph's. 

North.  Bout  de  I'lsle,  the  extremity  of  Montreal 
Island,  Pointe  aux  Trembles,  and  the  village  of  Boucher- 
ville ;  opposite  which  is  Longueil,  and  further  down,  Vu- 
rennes,  with  a  two  steepled  church. 

N.  East,  the  view  is  boundless,  with  a  succession  of 
cultivated  fields,  which  in  the  distance  become  quite  un- 
distinguishable.  The  same  appearance,  it  will  hereafter 
be  seen,  extends  along  the  river's  banks  quite  to  Quebec. 

Road  round  the  Mountain.  The  road  near  the  north 
end  of  the  mountain  is  ornamented  with  many  beautiful 
seats,  and  there  are  also  some  extousive  manufactories. 
Behind  it  is  a  fine  cj^tent  of  cullJ^ated  ground, 


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TftoOTB*  IN   CANiDA.. 


119 


Oyhkr  Excursions.  To  Lachine,  9  miles, or  3  leagues. 
The  river  road  is  the  pleasantest ;  giving  a  view  of  the 
Rapids,  Nuns'  and  Heron  Islands,  the  Indian  village  of 
"Caughnawaga  opposite,  and  crossing  the  Lachine  Canal. 
To  PointB  aux  Trembles  and  Bout  de  VIsle. 
The  southern  road  to  the  Mountain,  which  crosses  it  at 
the  less  elevated  part  of  the  ridge,  near  the  middle,  leads 
through  St.  Joseph's  suburbs,  and  afterward  passes  a 
number  of  fine  country  seats.  The  most  remarkable  are 
those  of  Mr.  M'Gillivray,  and  the  late  Mr.  Gregor>', 
members  of  the  old  North  West  Company,  which  was 
converted  into  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.  It  engrossed 
the  Indian  trade  for  a  vast  distance  up  the  lakes,  and  en- 
riched many  individuals. 

The  Priests^  Farm  lies  west  of  the  city  near  the  base  of 
the  mountain ;  aad  is  a  large  tract  of  land,  with  an  old 
building  in  the  ancient  European  style,  preserving  many  of 
the  features  of  feudal  days,  with  its  projecting  square 
towers,  small  windows,  pointed  roofs,  and  weather-beaten 
walls.  The  barns  conHCCted  with  it  are  very  spacious, 
and  seem  capable  of  containing  a  large  part  of  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  farm.  The  only  wonder  seems  to  be  what  a 
few  old  men  can  do  with  such  vast  stores,  as  well  as 
"With  their  receipts  from  various  other  quarters. 

The  whole  island  of  Montreal  is  a  Seigneurie,  in  which 
the  monks  of  Ricolet,  as  Seigneurs,  have  the  right  of  a 
tax  on  every  farm,  on  every  purchase  and  sale  of  real 
estate,  and  many  other  privileges,  vested  in  them  by  the 
king  of  France  on  the  first  settlement  of  the  place.  Cir- 
cumstances have  conspired  to  reduce  and  destroy  many  of 
these  privileges,  so  that  the  annual  income  of  the  priest*, 
from  this  rich  and  valuable  Seigneurie,  though  large,  is 
very  trivial,  in  comparison  with  its  extent  and  fertility. 

Col.  Allen,  with  his  detachment  for  the  surprise  of 
Montreal,  in  1776,  crossed  the  river  from  Longueil;  but 
Major  Brown,  not  being  able  to  land  above  the  city  as  was 
intended,  the  former  was  taken  prisoner  by  Gov.  Carlton, 
after  a  sharp  engagement,  loaded  with  irons,  and  sent  to 
England.  Col.  Warnet  afterwards  erected  batteries  on 
the  shore  at  Longueil,  by  which  he  drove  back  the  go- 
vernor when  he  attempted  to  land  on  his  "way  to  relieve 
St.  John's^ 

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^20  RIVIR  ST.    LAWRinCB. 

ROTTTF:  from  MONTREAL  TO  QUEBEC. 
Road  to  Quebec. 

Notvvithstnnding  the  common  prejudices  against  tra- 
velling by  land  in  Canada,  which  are  entertained  by 
many  persons  not  acquainted  with  the  country,  it  is  re- 
commended to  those  who  may  find  it  convenient,  to  make 
arrangement,  for  porfc .  „  ,..  .  part  of  the  journey  in  this 
manner,  either  going  or  returning. 

Tiie  country  is  indeed  a  dead  level,  but  it  is  entirely  re- 
duced to  cultivation,  thickly  populated,  and  with  good 
roads.  I  he  way  lies  along  the  very  margin  of  the  St. 
i^awrence,  passing  an  almost  nninferrupted  succession  of 
awe  iings,  and  supplied  with  many  comfortable  and  some 
good  inns. 

Steamboat  to  Quebec. 

Leaving  Montreal  in  the  steamboat,  you  pass  under  the 
tort  on  ist.  Helen  s  Island,  the  steeples  and  cupolas  of  the 
city  being  seen  nearly  in  the  following  order  beginning  at 
the  south  end;  Gray  Nuns',  Ricolet  Church,  Black  Nuns', 
then  the  Old  Cathedral,  Episcopal  Church,  Nelson's  Mon- 
ument, Bon-secour  Church.  Near  the  last,  on  the  shore, 
are  the  Barracks,  Water  w^rks,  and  Baths,  the  begin^ 
""?iv^  A,  Quebec  suburbs,  the  residences  of  Judge  Reed 
and  Mr.  Malson,  with  terraced  gardens  towards  the  river, 
&c.  A  httlehelow  is  Malson's  Brewery,  and  Sir  John 
Johnson  s  residence. 

The  Rapids  of  St.  Mary  are  between  the  isJand  and 
these  last  mentioned  objects,  and  run  with  such  rapidity 
that  steamboats  are  sometimes  obliged  to  be  drawn  up  bv 
cattle.  '^    ' 

Longjeil,juiithe\ovf  St.  Helen's. 
Longnc  Pcinte,  Smiles  (2  leagues)  from  MontreaL 
verckeres,  on  the  east  side. 
Varennes  hag  a  church  with  a  double  spire. 
Point  aux  Trembles,  9  miles,  (3  leagues.)     Here  i,  » 
nunnery,  m  which  is  a  school  for  girls. 

Bo7zi  de  VIsle.      Here    is    no    village,  but  only   a 
ferry.  *^  '  .  ■'    " 

Contrecaur,  on  the  east. 
Repentigny,  a  pretty  village. 


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noUTK   To  QUEHEC. 


121 


At  this  place  it  h  rocommontled  to  tho  traveller  by  land, 
to  rrittko  a  tleviiiiion  from  the  dirt'ct  road  nlorig  tho  river,  it' 
ho  finds  it  coiiveniont,  toseo  tho  dclighlfiil  country  hrtweeii 
it  and  tho  town  of  AHBonription.  There  h  a  beautiful  roatJ 
on  euoh  bank,  varied  with  houHcs  and  trees.  Return  so  a» 
to  atrike  tho  roiid  near  St.  Sui|»ice. 

tit.Sulpicc,  24  miles  (3  lougues)  from  Montreal. 

La  Moraye. 

Bertkier. 

Machiche  ia  a  pretty  town,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Riviercr 
du  Loup. 

Many  French  customs  are  atiU  prcnerved  by  the  unmixeJ 
inhabitants  of  the  St.  Ltiwrom^e,  some  of  which  are  ogreea-' 
ble  and  interesting. 

Thenj  irf  very  little  variety  to  be  discovered  in  the  na- 
tural  surface  of  the  ground,  but  the  journey  through  thitj 
region  presents  almost  aa  unvarying  scene  of  cultivation 
and  fertility.  For  a  great  part  of  tho  distance,  there  is  a 
narrow  strip  of  corn  or  potatoes  between  the  road  and  the 
river's  bank,  to  corresp(»n{i  with  the  fields  which  stretch  off 
to  such  a  distance  on  the  other  hand ;  and  tho  variety  of 
crops,  and  tho  occasional  rows  and  clumps  of  trees,  re" 
move,  in  a  good  degree,  the  natural  sameness  of  the  land-' 
scape. 

Navigation  and  Trade  op  the  St.  Lawrence,  fee. 

Steamboats  are  of  the  utmost  importance  on  this  great 
river,  for  they  contribute  extremely  to  the  convenierwe  and 
expedition  of  travelling,  and  render  most  valuable  assist-* 
ance  to  commerce.  Thcc  are  many  steamboats  constantly 
employed  between  .Montn^al  and  Quebec,  most  of  then* 
fitted  to  accommodate  pas-cngers,  as  well  as  to  carry 
freight,  and  all  provided  with  powerful  engines.  The 
principal  ariicle  of  export  fr^im  Canada  is  lumber,  a  great 
deal  of  which  is  carried  to  Quebec  in  imnfjense  rafts,  and 
tiien  shipped  for  England.  These  rafts  have  usually  a 
great  number  of  sails  to  hoist  in  a  fair  wind,  with  huts  ta 
shelter  tho  men  from  the  weather,  so  that  they  have  a  very 
singular  appearance,  and  at  a  little  distance  look  like  a 
fleet  of  sail  boats.  Tho  population  of  Lower  Canada  i» 
estimated  at  about  200,000. 

The  Frewdi  Canadians  rvye  amiable,  elwerful/  and  gay^ 


i 


V\; 


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\M 


sdnfct. 


tlli 


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dind  their  bafikwardnoss  in  improvements  is  attl'ibutablis  t6 
the  system  under  which  they  live.  They  are  generally 
brought  up  in  grdat  ignorance,  and  they  are  taught  to  dis* 
like  and  avoid  not  only  the  Protestant  principles,  hut  Pro* 
testants  themselves.  In  New-England,  as  is  well  known, 
the  law  provides  for  the  instruction  of  every  child,  without 
exception  :  and  every  ehild  is  actually  instructed.  Books 
tmd  newspapers,  however,  lose  their  effect  as  well  as  their 
value  among  these  people.  Among  those  regions  where 
English  and  Sct)tr.h  have  settled,  instruction  is  gaining 
ground;  and  in  Montreal,  the  public  schools  are  rising  in 
importance  :  but  it  is  to  be  feared  that  the  Romish  priests 
will  long  continue  to  oppose  the  extension  of  real  know* 
iedge,  and  that  while  they  retain  their  influence,  the  cha-* 
racter  of  the  people  will  remain  depressed. 

The  "  Prodedure^'  of  Canada  is  founded  on  the  edict 
t^f  Louis  14th,  of  1667,  and  is  the  basis  of  the  Civil 
Code.  There  were  no  lawyers  before  the  Conquest  in 
1759,  when  they  were  created ;  and  martial  law  pre- 
vailed from  that  time  till  1774.  The  trial  by  .Jury  was 
introduced  in  1783  ;  and  the  Constitutional  Charter  in 
1791. 

The  houses  are  generally  of  one  story,  and  are  built  of 
wood  or  stone,  according  to  the  nature  of  the  country* 
Some  of  them  are  formed  of  squared  timbers,  and  even 
of  round  logs  ;  but  thj  latter  are  usually  employed  for  the 
constraction  of  barns  only,  which  are  ofien  covered  with 
thatch.  The  houses  and  barns  are  frequently  compos-' 
ed  of  several  small  buildings,  erected  at  different  pe- 
riods, according  to  the  capacity  or  necessities  of  the  pro* 
prietors. 

William  Henry,  or  Sorel, 


I    ' 

^t  ■ 

I 
4-     -. 


45  miles^,  or  15  leagues  from  Montreal 

""  This  town,  though  quite  small,  is  one  of  the  principal 
places  between  the  two  capitals.  It  is  on  the  south  side 
of  the  St*  Lawrence^  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sorel,  or 
Richelieu,  in  a  very  sandy  situation;  and  contains  no* 
thing  worthy  of  notice,  except  a  little  old  church,  a 
palisadoed  fort,  and  a  neat  square^  at  the  distance  of 


ROUTE   TO  QUEBEC. 


123 


a  short  walk,  sarrounded  with  several  pretty  white 
houses,  a  church,  &c.  a  little  in  the  New-England  style. 
The  fences  are  generally  low,  and  atford  the  sight  of 
gardena. 

The  Government  House  stands  about  three  quarters  of 
a  mile  beyond  the  town  It  is  a  large  red  building,  with 
barracks  near  it.  The  boat  turns  round  on  leaving  Sorel, 
and  returns  lo  the  St.  Lawrence. 

On  the  opposite  point,  Gersral  Montgonaery  erected 
batteries  on  taking  the  place,  in  1775,  and  prepared  rafts 
and  floating  batteries,  which  maintained  an  engagement 
with  the  ships  in  which  Governor  Carleton  attempted 
to  escape  to  Quebec,  and  drove  him  back  towards  Mon- 
treal. He  afterwards  passed  them  in  an  open  boat  at 
night;  but  his  vessels  fell  into  the  hands  cf  the  Ame- 
ricans. 

Berthieb  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
but  out  of  sight,  being  behind  several  low  islands.  Soma 
of  the  steamboats  stop  there  instead  of  at  Sorel.  There 
is  a  ferry  across. 

Lake  St.  Peter.  Or^  entering  this  large  tract  of  wa- 
ter, the  shores  at  the  opposite  end  appear  like  mere  lines 
upon  the  horizon,  and  a  vessel  at  the  opposite  end  ap- 
pears like  a  mere  speck,  the  length  of  the  lake  heing  20 
miles. 

Point  du  Lac,  or  Woodlands,  is  seen  on  the  north- 
ern shore,  when  nearly  across  ;  but  it  is  .situated  beyond 
the  lake.  A  ridge  of  high  land  continues  on  the  north, 
following  the  course  of  the  river. 

Opposite  Woodlands  is  Nicolet,  9  miles  from  Three 
Rivers.  The  place  is  large,  and  contains  an  English  and 
a  French  church,  together  with  a  nunnery,  and  a  college, 
founded  by  a  Romish  bishop  of  Quebec. 

Threu  Rivers,  (Trois  Rivieres,]  Half  Way.  This 
is  the  largest  town  between  Montreal  and  Quebec,  and  is 
96  miles  from  the  former,  and  84  from  the  latter.  The 
streets  are  generally  straight,  and  regularly  built,  though 
narrow  ;  and  the  houses,  aJ;hough  neat,  are  generally  only 
one  or  two  stories  high,  with  windows  in  the  roofs,  and, 
being  principally  plasiered,  have  rather  a  dark  aspect,  like 
those  of  Montreal.  It  contains  shops  of  various  sorts, 
and  several  inns  of  a  decetit  appearance. 


4t 


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t" 


I. 


I    '! 


i. 


124 


THE   RIVER   8T,    LAWRENCE- 


The  Nunnery  is  in  tho  east  part  of  the  town,  and  haa 
extensive  grounds  connected  with  it. 

The  Parish  Church  is  in  the  south  part  of  tho  town. 
Two  large  buildings,  formerly  the  Court  House  and  Jail, 
with  the  Nunnery,  are  the  principal  objects. 

While  the  American  forces  were  on  the  retreat  from 
Quebec,  in  1775,  General  Sullivan  sent  General  Thomp- 
son down  from  Sorel  to  attack  this  place.  He  went  down 
the  right  bank  of  Lake  St.  Peter,  and  landed  9  miles  from 
the  town;  but  being  discovered  and  misled,  he  found 
General  Frazer  drawn  up  in  order  of  battle,  while  Gen. 
Nesbit  was  sent  to  cut,  off  his  retreat ;  and  the  battle, 
which  immediately  commenced,  was  short  and  disastrous 
to  the  assailants,  who  lost  their  commander,  and  many 
officers  and  soldiers,  a8  prisoners,  although  they  had  few 
killed.     After  several  hours  we  approach 

Le  BiGNEUx,  a  village  on  the  south  side  of  the  river, 
known  by  its  double-spired  church.  It  stands  on  a  steep 
bank,  about  60  feet  high,  and  marks  the  commencement 
of  the  Richelieu  rapids. 

The  river  here  winds  between  broken  banks,  and  the 
number  of  cottages  is  so  great  as  to  make  the  scene  more 
animating.  A  few  blue,  but  not  lofty  mountains,  are  seen 
down  the  river. 

Rapids  of  Richelieu.  The  river,  which  is  about  two 
miles  wide,  here  runs  with  great  velocity,  particularly  the 
first  three  miles ;  but  the  water  is  deep,  and  the  surface 
unbroken,  except  near  the  shores,  which  are  lined  with  in- 
numerable loose  round  stones  and  rocks,  extremely  dan- 
gerous to  vessels  when  they  get  among  them.  These 
rocks  seem  placed  with  much  regularity,  forming  two 
ranges.  Although  the  navigation  of  this  part  of  the  St. 
Lawrence  requires  great  skill  and  caution  in  other  vessels, 
steamboats  pass  with  security;  yet,  on  account  of  the 
force  of  the  current  at  ebb  tide,  even  they  are  obliged  to 
vary  their  hours  of  leaving  Quebec,  in  such  a  w*y  as  to 
have  the  flood  through  the  rapids.  V  issels  are  often  seen 
waiting  at  the  bottom  of  the  rapids  for  a  change  of  lide, 
or  for  a  steamboat  to  tow  them  up.  The  rapids  extend 
about  9  miles. 

St,  Antoine,  on  the  south  bank,  is  18 miles,  (6  leagues) 


41 


IIOUTB    IN    CANADA. 


125 


from  Quebec.  The  mountain  seen  towards  the  north- 
east is  that  of  Lorette,  and  the  bank  on  that  side  make» 
a  beautiful  vHlope  to  the  river,  agreeably  varied  by  culti- 
vated fields,  interrupted  by  occasional  patches  of  wood- 
land ;  on  the  side  of  the  ridge,  about  midvvay  from 
the  water  to  the  top,  passes  the  road,  T^e  south  shore, 
on  the  contrary,  continues  high  and  abrupt  and  nearly 
perpendicular,  with  innumerable  cottages  peeping  over  the 
brow. 

PoiNTE  Avx  Trembles,  a  village  on  the  north  shore. 
The  river  is  about  the  same  breadth  all  along  here,  viz. 
about  two  miles,  although  it  appears  rriuch  narrower  ;  the 
depth  is  about  5  fathoms,  and  the  tide  rises  14  or  15  feet. 
Notwithstanding  the  ihickness  of  the  population  on  the 
shores,  the  country  is  a  wilderness  only  about  four  miles 
back,  being  comprehended  in  what  is  called  the  King^s 
Hunting  Ground,  which  extends  from  Three  Rivers,  4a 
or  60  miles  below  this  place. 

Jacques  Cahtier,  30  miles  from  Quebec.  This  is  a 
village  on  the  north  side,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the 
river  of  the  same  name,  which  is  likewise  distinguished 
by  the  name  of  the  first  explorer  of  the  river  St.  Law- 
rence, Here  are  the  remains  of  the  first  church  in  Ca- 
nada. 

Carouge  CREEk,  on  the  north  side.  Here  a  pretty 
view  opens,  for  a  few  minutes,  into  the  interior,  on  the 
north  shore,  showing  the  Indian  village  of  Lorette,  at  the 
distance  of  three  or  four  miles,  with  an  extent  of  beau- 
tiful land,  and  a  range  of  fine  mountains  in  the  rear. 

Chaudiere  River  is  a  little  below,  with  a  rock  on 
the  lower  side,  at  its  mouth. 

Looking  down  the  St,  Lawrence,  part  of  Point  Levi 
is  seen,  covered  with  white  buildings  one  of  which  is 
the  churcb.  It  is  opposite  Quebec,  which  remains  for  a 
considerable  distance  invisible.  The  banks  rise  to  a 
greater  and  greater  height,  and  present  every  variety  of 
surface. 

Sillery  Cove  is  a  mile  below,  above  which  was  fought 
thn  final  battle  between  the  English  and  French  in  1759, 
after  the  capture  of  Quebec  by  General  Wolfe,  which 
completed  the  conquest  of  Canada. 


"■*; 


i«:, 


i  ^ ! 


!;:  ^  :|liii 


;    it  ■ 


136 


<)l'KnKC. 


IVotfe^t  Cove  'i!*  oohirKl  tlin  next  point.  ThU  i^  tho 
pliico  wlioro  Wolfe  liuifliul  in  thr  nisht,  and  up  the  yrvvA- 
pilou«  bank  he  cliinlHMl  with  iiis  inni|M,  uCtnwnnlrt  dtaw- 
inij  up  his  cannon,  lli'i't'  dm.  Arnold  nftcrwurdH  look 
up  his  troops,  in  IT?!"*.  Thi^ro  is  a  r(MTiarkul)l»«  roi-k  pro- 
jecting from  iho  hunk,  at  the  head  of  tho  covo,  a  liltlo 
\o  the  rii^^ht  of  vhich  \h  seen  a  road  running  up  the 
hill,  at  the  place  wIumo  iho  troops  went  up,  when  thoro 
was  notliing  hut  a  foot  ])!ifh. 

Cape  Diamond  }■*  the  alirupt  !)hilVin  whicli  terminalei* 
the  high  land  on  the  north,  and  under  tlu^  opposilc  side 
of  which  Quehec  ia  8il\iat,ed.  It  i,s348  feet  highj  and  tiio 
forlilied  linos  on  its  hrow  belong  to  the  city  walls,  and  the 
citadel  which  is  int-luded  by  them.  The  telegraph  is 
raised  on  the  Cavaliers'  Battery,  and  the  round  buildings 
on  the  ridge  are  Martello  towers,  which  serve  us  advincud 
works  to  the  fortress.  The  tnountains  of  St.  Anne  and 
Tourmente  appear  many  miles  d«»wn  the  river. 

General  Montgomery  was  Killed  just  at  the  base  of 
Cape  Diamond,  in  attacking  a  block  house  on  the  shore, 
in  1775. 

QuKiiKC.  Tlio  Lower  Town  of  Quebec  begins  noor 
this  spot,  and  stretches  along  at  the  foot  of  the  rock,  while 
ihe  Uppc-Town  soon  b(><;ins  to  optMi  to  view  ibove,  though 
iho  princi[)al  part  of  it  is  on  the  top  and  the  opposite  side. 

the  Castle  of  Sf.  Louis,  or  the  Governor's  House, 
«verhung  this  precipice,  being  built  on  supporters;  and 
tiuulo  a  conspicuous  appearan'U>,  interrupting  the  city 
"wall,  which  encloses  the  Upper  To  vn.    It  has  been  burnt. 

But  the  current  is  too  swift  to  allow  nuich  time  for 
observation  before  arriving  at  the  wharf,  whc^o  llie  travel- 
!er  will  find  servants  in  wailing  frotn  the  principal  public 
houses  in  the  city*,  these  are  all  in  the  Upper  Town,  the 
nscent  to  which  is  intricate  as  well  as  steep  and  labori- 
ous, so  that  the  stranger  will  want  their  assistance  as 
guides. 

The  Lower  Town  is  crowded  and  dirty,  and  contains 
no  decent  public  houses.  After  three  or  four  turns,  you 
begin  to  ascend  Mountain-street,  which  is  very  steep  and 
laborious,  and  leads  to  a  gate  in  the  city  wall,  which  is 
Very  massive,  built  in  the  old  European  style,  of  solid 
«tone,  very  thick,  with  narrow  passage  ways  for  carriages 


iho 


I 


Quenxc. 


isr 


and  foolmon,  and  u  guard  rlitunhcr  abovp,  with  loopluilo* 
for  m«isk«!trrr8.  On  tlio  ri«^lit,  iifler  j)asflinp;  this  f;»t(',  is 
a  Imimry  of  heavy  giinH.  Tho  Htrcct  which  op^nH  Ji  litlhj 
lo  tho  lull  Idads  info  ih«  midst  of  tho  city. 

A  walk  to  thn  lC«pIonttdf%  in  thn  hii,'^hoHt  part  of  the 
rity,  by  thn  wail,  is  vory  (hdiirhtful  nt  morning  or  oven* 
ing,  as  it  commands  a  (ino  vi(.'w  t  but  Cnpvi  Diamond  tho 
finest  of  all. 

It  is  recommonded  to  tho  stranger  tr  Hcizo  the  first 
pleiiHnnt  days  to  make  excursions  to  the  Falls  of  Mont- 
morency, t\u)  village  of  Lorotte,  &r.  which  will  be  more 
particularly  spoken  of  hcu-eafter;  and  it  will  bo  found 
miich  better,  on  several  accounts,  to  sot  out  as  early  in 
tho  morning  as  possible. 

Thn  walls  of  Qnobec  enclose  tho  upper  part  of  tho  hill, 
and  a  little  of  its  declivity  on  the  north  side ;  but  the 
spoce  is  so  small  that  the  buildings  are  extremely  crowded. 

The  French  Pariah  Church  stands  at  one  end  of  tho 
public  square,  facing  the  barracks,  with  the  seminary  on 
ono  side.  Tho  Church  contains  little  that  is  remarkable, 
tbo  whole  interior  appearing  rather  ordinary,  and  tho 
Nictures  liaving  little  to  boast  of:  the  principal  of  them 
are  a  Holy  Family,  an  Ascension,  Crucifixion,  Descent  of 
Tongur.?,  and  Last  Supper. 

7^hc  College,  which  stands  a  little  to  tho  right  in  comb- 
ing out  of  the  church,  is  a  largo  stone  building  in  which  a 
considerable  number  of  youth  aro  educated  by  priests. 
They  may  be  distinguished  in  the  city  l)y  wearing  the  long 
black  gown,  sash,  and  cornered  cap,  common  to  such  in* 
slitutions  in  Popish  countries. 

The  Chapel  of  the  Seminary,  which  stands  a  little 
left  from  the  principal  gate,  contains  the  best  collection  of 
pictures,  it  is  said,  in  all  Canada!  beginning  on  the  right 
hand  nqar  the  door,  is  a  picture  of  the  Virgin  Mary  at* 
tended  by  angels,  vtc.  in  tho  first  chapel  on  that  side  is  a 
picture  of  the  Crucifixion,  over  the  altar ;  on  the  right, 
llie  Haptism  of  the  ICthiopian,  John's  Baptism,  St.  John  J 
on  the  left,  a  portrait,  St.  Peter  receiving  th<;  keys,  infant 
Saviour,  Devotees,  '&c.  on  the  church  wail,  next  is  a  good 
l)iciure,  then  the  Ascension,  and  Interment  of  the  Saviour, 
und  ovw  thn  high  altar,  a  Holy  Family,  and  Dove  de* 
Bceudujc;  what  ai)pcars  to  be  some  priest's  dream  ?  on  the 

12 


:,  Ik 


m 


mi- 


128 


PLACE   D  ARMES. 


left  side,  19  the  Descent  of  Tongues,  and  an  Angel  visiting 
a  saint  in  prison,  ,!,H)od;  over  the  altar  in  the  remaining 
chapel,  is  the  Baptism  in  the  Wilderness,  with  a  number 
of  poor  pictures ;  nnd  in  the  church  are  an  Evangelist, 
Wise  Men  presenting  Gifts,  &c. 

In  two  gilt  boxe.s,  one  on  each  side  of  the  high  altar, 
are  two  sculls,  with  several  human  bones,  placed  against 
red  silk,  which  are  regarded  with  superstitious  reverence, 
as  holy  and  perhaps  miraculous  relics  ;  a  lamp  is  kept 
constantly  burning  under  that  on  the  loft  hand. 

l^he  Barracks  are  in  a  largo  stone  building  opposite 
the  church,  which  was  formerly  the  Jesuits'  College :  it 
is  three  and  four  stories  high,  forming  nn  angle  like  an 
L.  each  side  of  which  is  about  200  feet  long.  Here  are 
quartered  the  troops  which  garrison  the  city.  Here  were 
imprisoned  the  Americans  captured  in  the  attack  on  the 
city,  in  1775. 

Convents.  There  are  two  convents  in  Quebec ;  one  of 
them  has  about  40  Ursulines,  who  have  a  large  convent 
and  church  near  the  prison,  in  the  west  part  of  the  city, 
and  keep  a  largo  school  for  girls.  The  other  convent  is 
lower  down,  and  contains  a  hospital  for  diseases  of  the 
lighter  kinds  ;  while  the  most  serious  and  severe  are  treat- 
ed at  the  nunnery  near  the  St.  Charles's  River,  about  IjJ 
miles  above  the  town.  These  institutions,  however,  arc 
not  now  open  to  visiters  as  they  formerly  were;  at  least  it 
is  generally  impossible  to  gain  access  to  them. 

The  Arsenal  is  near  the  Palace  gate,  and  contains 
about  100,000  stand  of  arms,  arranged  with  great  regu- 
larity. 

The  Place  d'Armes  is  a  small  square  on  an  elevated 
position,  on  which  stood  the  Castle  of  St.  Louis,  the 
Governor's  residence,  which  was  burnt  in  1834.  Here  is 
a  building  containing  the  Museum  of  the  Society  for  pro- 
moting Literature,  Science,  Arts,  and  Historical  Research 
in  Canada.  Here  is  also  the  Monument  to  Generals 
Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  who  fell  in  the  battle  on  the  Heights 
of  Abraham.     It  is  65  feet  high. 

The  street  beyond  commands  a  fine  view ;  and  there 
are  several  beautiful  terraced  gardens  formed  on  the  steep 
side  of  the  rock,  almost  overhanging  the  buildingr^  in  the 
lower  town. 


QUEBIC. 


129 


The  f<jrtification9  of  the  city  on  the  land  side  are  strong-, 
and  worthy  of  particular  attention. 

Si.  Louisas  Gate  is  the  highest  of  the  city  gates,  and 
the  street  of  the  same  name  conducts  to  it ;  this  leads  to 
the  famous  plains  of  Abraham. 

The  Esplanade  Battery  lies  between  St.  Louis  and  St. 
John's  gates,  and  contains  12  cannon  and  4  mortars,  with 
magazines  built  where  they  could  not  be  injured  by  an 
enemy's  shot.  The  ground  slopes  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
expose  a  large  extent  of  country  to  view  :  the  fine  fertile 
plain  Iieyond  St.  Charles'  River,  the  beautiful  ridge  of 
land.^  beyond,  with  the  villages  of  Lorette,  Charlebourg 
and  others ;  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  right,  with  Point  Le- 
vi, the  Isle  of  Orleans,  and  the  fine  ranges  of  distant  moun- 
tains. The  mouth  of  the  Montmorency  can  easily  be  dis- 
cerned, on  the  left  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  about  9  miles 
from  the  city.  That  is  the  spot  where  the  falls  are  to  be 
seen,  and  the  battle  ground  where  Gen.  Wolfe  made  an 
Mnsuccessful  attack  on  the  French  General  Montcalm,  be- 
fore the  capture  of  the  city. 

Mounting  to  the  parapet  near  the  gate  of  St.  Louis,  the 
plan  of  the  defences  may  be  in  part  discerned,  even  by  an 
unpractised  eye  ;  and  by  descending  and  passing  through 
the  gate,  the  strength  of  the  place  will  be  better  under- 
stood. The  walls  of  the  city,  the  bastions,  and  other 
works,  are  from  20  to  30  feet  in  height,  and  formed  of 
stone.  The  path  is  made  to  turn  several  abrupt  angles,  in 
order  to  expose  the  approach  to  raking  fires.  The  gate 
is  of  very  heavy  and  durable  masonry,  and  the  passage 
through  it  is  a  dark  arched  way,  aboMt  55  feet  long ;  it  is 
closed  by  two  heavy  doors,  with  .vickets  so  placed  as  not 
to  face  each  other. 

Near  the  Hospital  is  part  of  the  old  French  wall,  about 
50  feet  high,  which  contains  gentlemen's  gardens. 

The  Citadel,  on  Cape  Diamond,  is  designed  for  a  place 
of  impregnable  strength.  It  has  been  gradually  progress- 
ing for  a  number  of  years,  and  is  expected  to  be  soon 
completed.  Admission  may  be  usually  obtained  by  appli- 
cation to  the  proper  officers,  and  necessary  information  can 
be  .gained  at  the  hotels.  The  British  governmen*  intend- 
ed to  devote  £5000  per  annum  on  these  works ;  but  as  tho 


'II 


'I 

i 

i 
f. 

h  1 

l^ 


h 


ii: 


;;hiil' 


St   ; 


l:? 


130 


THE   CITADXI. 


money  was  sometimes  delayed,  they  were  occasionally  ex 
])03ed  to  somo  iiiterrupticMis.     This  citadel  renders  the  citjT 
defensible  against  a  large  force. 

Most  of  the  works  are  new,  though  some  parts  of  the 
old  have  been  made  to  serve.  They  include  five  or  six 
acres,  on  the  very  summit  of  Cape  Diamond,  and  extend  to 
the  verge  of  the  precipice,  .'J48  feet  above  the  St.  Law- 
rence. There  are  four  bastions  and  one  demi-bastion,  a 
ravelin,  in  advance  of  the  western  bastion,  and  other  out- 
works. The  walls  are  about  40  feet  high,  and  built  per 
pendicularly,  of  fine  hewn  stone  ;  the  ditch  being  blasted 
out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  about  50  feet  wide. 

The  Casemates.  Entering  the  gates  and  passing  be- 
hind the  wall,  a  continued  line  of  large  rooms  is  discovered 
following  the  wall,  built  of  substantial  brick  work,  and 
arched  over  head  with  such  strength  as  to  be  bomb  proof. 
These  rooms,  which  are  known  by  the  technical  name  of 
Casemates,  are  about  50  feet  long,  20  wide,  and  16  or  18 
high,  each  with  a  door  and  two  small  windows,  looking  in- 
ward, and  pierced  at  the  other  aide,  with  five  loop  holes 
each,  for  musketry.  These  loop  holes  are  on  the  new 
plan,  narrow  inside,  and  opening  with  steps  faced  with 
iron,  to  prevent  musket  shot  from  glancing  in.  There 
are  about  40  casemates  all  towards  the  land  side :  the 
natural  defence  of  the  precipice  over  the  water  being 
sufficiently  strong  to  prevent  the  attempts  of  an  enemy 
in  that  direction.  The  casemates  communicate  with 
each  other  by  folding  doors,  which  may  be  thrown  open 
the  whole  length  of  the  bomb-proofs,  and  will  then  fur- 
nish space  for  the  whole  garrison,  (from  3000  to  5000 
men,)  to  parade  at  once. 

The  Subterranean  Passage  leads  from  a  little  staircase 
in  the  bastion  next  east  of  the  gate,  under  the  ditch,  to  a 
small  outwork  with  two  or  three  casemated  rooms.  The 
stairs  are  narrow  and  sjiiral.  At  the  corner  next  the  river  and 
town,  is  the  old  Cavaliers'  Battery,  a  very  heavy  stone  build- 
ing, originally  erected  for  the  palace  of  the  French  governors 
of  Quebec:  below  it,  at  the  water's  edge,  Gen.  Mont- 
gomery was  killed.  It  has  dark  vaults,  the  walls  are  six: 
feet  thick,  near  the  ground,  and  from  the  Telegraph  on  the 
top  is  one  of  the  finest  views  that  can  be  imagined:  the 


QUEOKCi 


131 


j<  ' 


iKOid  siil'face  of  the  St.  Lawrence  lies  below,  and  stretches 
off  far  to  tlie  right  and  left  5  the  whole  city  of  Quebec  is 
crowded  together  almost  beneath  you,  while  Point  Levi, 
with  its  white  buildings,  is  seen  opposite,  with  a  long 
stretch  of  lofty  shores.  Turning  the  eye  in  the  opposite 
direction,  the  beautiful  ridge  of  land)  which  begins  many 
miles  down  the  river  on  the  northern  side,  and  rises  with 
a  gentle  swell  from  the  shore,  covered  with  the  richest  and 
most  varied  display  of  cultivation,  olfers  a  most  delightful 
view  over  an  extensive  and  fertile  region^  beautiful  in  form, 
divided  into  innumerable  portions,  cultivated  by  a  dense 
and  industrious  population,  and  scattered  with  their  clus-* 
tered  dwelhngs.  On  the  left,  appears,  among  other  vil' 
lages,  that  of  Lorette,  with  the  Montreal  road  for  nine 
miles,  almost  lined  with  houses  5  and  on  the  light  that  of 
Beaufort,  occupying  the  ridge  of  the  high  ground,  while  a 
little  beyond  it,  is  the  chasm  into  which  the  River  Mont- 
morency plunges,  with  its  famous  cataract,  just  before  it 
joins  the  St.  Lawrence  J  all  the  horizon  in  that  direction, 
tLtid  indeed  from  the  west  to  the  north,  and  quite  to  the 
east,  is  broken  by  ranges  of  fine  mountains,  some  of  them 
near  and  bold,  and  in  other  places,  between  them,  distant 
blue  ridges  are  disclosed,  three,  four,  or  five  in  succession. 
Tsononthuan  Mountain,  which  has  two  summits  and  is 
2000  feet  high  in  the  northwest,  is  the  southern  extreme 
of  the  granite  range  reaching  from  the  Labrador  coast  to 
Lake  Superior.  In  the  south  and  southwest,  where  an 
aperture  is  left,  is  a  distant  and  lower  range,  scattered 
•with  cottages*  It  may,  perhaps,  not  be  hazarding  too 
much  lo  say,  that  no  scene  in  Canada,  or  the  United  States, 
can  boast  of  a  combination  of  objects,  comparable  in  va- 
riety and  magnificence  to  those  here  presented  to  view. 

There  is  a  long  staircase  of  many  steps,  leading  from 
this  elevated  position  do'.vn  to  the  Lower  Town,  by 
which  it  was  originally  intended  to  draw  up  heavy  arti- 
cles. 

The  Plains  of  Ahrahain,-~^'Y\ns  interesting  tract  of 
ground,  the  field  where  Gen.  Wolfe  succeeded,  by  a  bold 
and  decisive  blow  in  capturing  the  city  of  Quebec  in  1759, 
lies  at  only  about  the  distance  of  a  mile,  and  should  not  be 
neglected.     Indeed  it  would  be  found  amply  to  repay  the 


:i 


i- 


n* 


132 


ntitnHTS  nr  ABRAUAMi 


III! 


UP 


ill 


;1ii! 


Ml;! 


trouble,  to  mako  n  much  longer  pxcuraion  in  thnt  direction; 
ti8  the  rond  is  line  and  the  country  interesting.* 

Pasaing  out  at  St.  Louis's  Gate,  you  observe  a  numbef 
of  handsome  dwellings  and  gardens  by  the  rortd  9ide> 
Until  you  got  some  distance  beyond  tho  towers,  when  you 
turn  Into  the  Rare  Course  on  the  left  side  of  the  road. 
The  foundation  of  a  monument  to  Wolfe  and  Montcalm 
was  laid  in  1327.  The  spot  where  (4en.  Wolfe  fell  M 
neat  the  corner  of  tho  fenced  field,  off  towards  the  river* 
A  little  east  of  the  place,  is  tho  remnant  of  a  breast  work 
with  several  angles,  and  commanding  a  fine  view.  Tho 
British  line  was  first  formed  across  tho  plain,  and  the  bat- 
tle was  fought  principally  on  that  ground. 

The  Plains  of  Abraham  are  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
in  breadth,  extending  a  great  distance  towards  the  west, 
with  a  gentle  slope  on  each  side,  and  so  smooth  as  to  offer 
an  admirable  field  for  the  mancnuvering  and  display  of 
troops. 

lVo{fe^s  Cot)e  is  about  ft  mile  further  west. 

*  After  the  battle  of  Montmorency,  whiU  tho  Gnglish  fleet  lay  up 
the  river,  nl  one  o'clock  in  the  night  of  Sepleniber  12th,  1759.  Gon. 
Wolfe  quietly  transported  his  troops  from  the  fleet  into  the  boatsi 
tind  cautiously  passed  down  the  river.  He  intended  to  Imid  two  or 
throe  miles  above  Cape  Diamond,  and  get  possession  ofthe  Heights 
of  Abraham  :  but  was  drifted  down  so  rapidly  that  he  passed  thd 
place  without  disirovering  it,  and  then  resolved  to  attempt  a  land- 
ing ut  Wolfe's  Cove,  just  above  the  city,  The  shore  in  bold  and  th* 
rocks  so  high  and  steep,  tliat  only  a  few  sentinels  were  posted 
niong  the  precipices  and  the  margin.  This  desperate  enterprise! 
however  did  not  discourage  the  leader  or  his  troops  ?  but  an  hour 
before  day  break  they  had  etfectod  iheir  landing,  and  commenced 
the  arduous  ascent  by  a  narrow,  broken  path,  at  the  top  of  which 
was  stationed  a  captain's  guard.  As  hist  as  the  English  reached 
tho  summit  they  formed  on  the  level  plain. 

At  ten  o'clock  Alonicalm  arrived  from  above,  and  a  battle  was 
fought,  which  decided  the  fate  nf  Canada.  Montcalm  stationed 
l50d  shirp  shooters  in  front,  but  the  British  coolly  stood  their 
ground  till  the  French  were  within  40  yanis,  when  they  opened 
their  fire,  and  soon  afterwards  t«>*minated  the  engagement  with 
their  bayonets.  The  place  where  the  greatest  carnat-'B  was  made, 
is  near  the  river's  bank,  where  tho  English  left  was  closely  en- 
gaged with  the  French  right.  The  action  lasted  two  hours,  and 
In  it  l)oth  chiefs  received  their  mortal  wonnds.  Gen.  Wolfe  was 
shot  in  two  or  three  places,  When  hardly  any  signs  of  life  re« 
mailed,  news  was  brought  tiiat  the  day  had  declarwl  for  the  Bri- 
tish, •«  Then,"  said  ho,  "  1  die  conteutV' 


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filtldR  O^QuEilKC.  In  1775,  soon  after  the  commence" 
ttient  oftho  revolution,  iho  Continental  Congress  prepared 
tin  oxpeilitioti  against  Canada  It  consisted  of  two  divi' 
Bions  1  one  under  Gen.  Montjjomery  came  down  Lake 
Champlain  and  took  St.  John^s,  Chambly,  Sorel,  Three* 
Rivers,  and  then  pi'oceeded  down  the  St.  Lawrence  to 
this  place.  The  other,  under  Gen.  Arnold,  took  the  route 
throui;'     he  wilderness  of  Maine  for  Quebec. 

Arnold  had  lO  companies  of  infantry,  besides  3  of  rifle* 
men,  and  one  of  artillery,  with  a  few  volunteers*  They 
proceeded  up  the  Kennebeck,  but  suffered  so  much  from 
fatigue  and  scarcity  that  many  fell  sick,  and  one  division 
returned.  The  remainder,  however,  reached  Point  Levi 
on  the  9th  of  November,  and  alarmed  the  city.  The 
batteaux  had  been  removed,  and  the  strong  •wind  detained 
thum  from  crossing,  after  they  had  been  supplied  by  the 
Canadians.  The  English  frigate  Lizard  and  several 
other  vessels  were  also  in  the  river.  Ho  at  length,  how- 
ever,  effected  a  landing  a  little  above  Wolfe's  Cove,  and 
marching  down  the  shore  climbed  up  the  rocks  at  that 
place,  and  surrounded  the  city  without  effect.  He  then 
retired  20  miles  to  Pointe  nux  Trembles,  and  waited  for* 
Gen.  Montgomery,  who  arrived,  after  great  trials,  Dec< 
1st,  with  about  300  men. 

The  two  generals  afterwards  marched  to  Quebec,  and 
planting  theif  mortars  on  the  snow  and  ice,  fired  into  thef 
town  with  little  effect*  The  small  pox  broke  out,  and  the 
cold  was  severe ;  but  the  town  was  attacked  at  four  points 
at  once,  in  a  snow  storm,  without  success.  Montgomery 
was  killed,  one  detachment  was  taken,  and  Arnold  retired 
three  miles  and  intrenched  himself. 

The  Falls  of  Montmorency.  Hire  a  coach,  a  gig^ 
a  caleche,  or  a  saddle  horse,  and  set  out,  if  possible,  early 
In  the  morning.  In  a  caleche,  you  will  have  the  advantage 
of  a  guide  in  your  driver.  Pass  through  the  Palace  gate 
and  a  village  divided  from  Quebec  only  by  the  wall,  cross 
the  bridge  over  St.  Charles'  river^  which  forms  a  regular 
serpentine,  and  enter  the  beautitUl  cultivated  plain  beyond* 
A  Convent  and  Hospital  are  seen  about  a  mile  on  the  left^ 
and  a  handsome  succession  of  fields  is  observed  on  both 
sides,  divided  by  low  palings.  At  the  distance  of  a  mile 
and  a  half  the  road  passes  several  country  houses. 


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ticiences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


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134 


fAt.tS   or  MONTMORE.VCt. 


■I   ::. 


Riding  down  the  coast,  at  a  considerable  eletatlftrt 
from  the  river,  many  fine  views  are  presented  of  the  oppa* 
Bite  banks,  the  isle  of  Orleans,  the  mountains  of  St  Anne 
and  Tourmente  down  the  river.  The  dwellings  are  small, 
and  the  inhabitants  poor  and  numerous. 

Beaufort  is  a  village  principally  composed  of  such 
buildings,  stretching  for  a  great  distance  along  the  road. 

On  approaching  the  Montmorency,  the  road  Crosses  an 
extensive,  smooth  and  gradual  ascent,  part  of  which  was 
the  field  of  a  bloody  slaughter,  suffered  by  a  division  of 
Gen.  Wolfe's  army  in  1759,  a  short  time  previous  to  his 
battle  on  the  Heights  of  Abraham. 

The  French  lines  were  bounded  by  the  nearer  bank,  as 
the  remains  of  their  intrenchments  on  the  left  still  testify  J 
and  the  British  came  up  from  the  shore  of  the  9t.  Law- 
rence on  the  right,  lo  attack  two  of  their  nearest  batteries 
before  the  second  of  which  they  were  cut  to  pieces. 

Dismounting  in  a  little  wood  and  fastening  the  horses, 
you  may  proceed  along  the  precipitous  bank  of  the  Mont- 
morency, by  a  foot  path,  to  see  the  falls  from  this  side. 
As  it  is  a  difficult  way,  and  the  view  more  fine  and  unob- 
structed from  the  opposite  side,  ii  is  hardly  worth  the  trou- 
ble, unless  you  have  plenty  of  time.  You  have  to  clanibei' 
rocks,  pass  down  a  long  ladder,  and  stand  on  the  verge  of 
sin  abyss  into  which  the  cataract  dashes.  Water  is  drawn 
off"  here  in  a  wooden  race,  for  the  supply  of  Mr.  Patter- 
son's great  Saw-mills,  which  are  worthy  of  being  visited. 
It  is  better  thenfore  to  follow  the  road  on  foot,  to  cross 
the  bridge,  and  entering  the  fields  on  the  right,  follow 
down  the  course  of  the  river.  There  are  several  fine 
points  of  view,  from  which  the  falls  appear  to  great  ad- 
vantage. 

On  the  fine  elevated  point  formed  by  the  junction  of  the 
two  rivers,  and  commanding  an  unobstructed  view  upon 
the  St.  Lawrence  for  many  miles  up  and  down,  with 
several  lofty  mountains  below,  the  Isle  of  Orleans  oppo- 
site, Quebec  above,  and  the  cataract  close  at  hand,  the 
Bntish  here  took  a  strong  position  in  July,  1759  ;  and 
trom  this  place  made  a  bold,  but  unsuccessful  attempt 
against  their  enemies  on  the  opposite  side.  The  remains 
of  their  intrenchments  are  plainly  visible  under  our  feet. 

The  best  view  of  the  cataract  ia  to  be  enjoyed  from  the 


im 


QU£B£C. 


135 


i:i      I 


spur  of  the  rock,  which  projects  from  the  eastern  shore  ; 
but  the  sprfly,  which  keeps  the  surface  covered  with  a 
coat  of  green,  will  drench  the  clothes  in  a  few  minutes. 

The  height  of  the  fall  is  said  to  be  240  feel ;  and  the 
banks  on  both  sides  below  forms  a  precipitous  and  fright- 
ful precipice,  of  rather  a  curving  form,  of  bare,  sharp, 
slaty  rock,  whose  strata  incline  from  north  to  south,  and 
the  perpendicular  veins  run  nearly  N.  W.  and  S.  E.  At 
low  water  the  Montmorency  may  be  forded,  with  some 
caution,  where  it  was  passed  by  the  British  troops;  but 
the  tide  rises  fast  and  high. 

Battle  ov  Montmorency.      When  General  Wolfe 
came  to  operate  against  Quebec  in  June,  1759,  he  posted 
his  army  on  the  island  of  Orleans  while  the  fleet  block- 
aded the  port.  At  the  end  of  that  month  General  Monck- 
ton  was  sent  over  to  Point  Levi,  and  established  himself 
there,  whence  he  was  able  to  fiie  upon  the  city.     Above 
the  River  Montmorency,  the  landing  was  protected  by 
the  Marquis  de  Montcalm.     General  Wolfe  landed  his 
troops  at  the  mouth  of  the  Montmorency  during  the  night 
of  July  31st,  and  erected  a  battery  on  the  precipice  north- 
east of  the  falls,  the  remains  of  which  are  to  bo  seen. 
The  French  were  intrenched  along  the  opposite  bank  ; 
and  on  the  31st  of  July,  General  Wolfe  sent  his  troops 
to  ford  the  Montmorency  below  the  falls,  to  storm  their 
works.     Some  of  General  Monckton's  force  from  Point 
Levi  in  crossing  with  boats  got  aground,  and  difficulty 
ensued ;  but  the  landing  was  made  in  the  afternoon  on 
the  beach  to  the  right  of  the  saw  mills.     They  came, 
however,  too  late ;  for  the  thirteen  grenadier  companies 
with  200  Americans,  who  had  landed  before,  refused  to 
wait  or  to  form,  as    had  been  intended  in  four  columns, 
but  marched  tumultuously  round  the  rock,  and  rushed  up 
hill  in  a  mass  towards  the  French  works,  at  some  distance 
back  from  the  old  redoubt  on  the  point,  which  had  been 
deserted.     A  warm  fire,  however,  was  directed  against 
them,  which  cut  down   about  500  men,  and  they   were 
oblig*»d  to  retreat  to  the  redoubt,  whence  they  were  ordered 
back  to  the  beach  to  form.     The  enterprise  was  then  in- 
terrupted by  a  severe  storm,  and  finally  abandoned. 
The  ViLLAOB  OF  LoBETTE  may  be  taken  in  the  way 


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136 


LAKE   CHAMPLAIN. 


returning  from  Montnnorency,  if  there  should  be  time 
enough  remaining,  (which  is  barely  possible,)  and  the 
ride  along  the  high  ridge  leading  in  that  direction,  will  be 
found  delightful.  Loretto  is  an  Indian  village,  with  a 
church,  and  the  stranger  may  furnish  himself  with  m  jcca- 
ains,  belts,  pipes,  dec. 

Land  Route  from  Quebec  to  Montreal. 

Upper  Road. 

(The  pleasanter.)  1st  post,  Lorette  16  miles,  2d 
Jacques  Carlier  16,  3d  Deschambeaux  16,  4th  St.  Anne 
16,  5th  BatiscampS,  6th  Champlain  9,  7th  Aux  Cayes  8, 
8th  Trois  Rivieres  6. 

Lower  Road. 

1st  post,  Cape  Rouge  9  miles,  2d  St.  Augustine  9,  3d 
Pointe  aux  Trembles  8,  4th  Ecureil  9,  5th  Cape  Sante  9. 

(Garneau's  inn,  called  "  The  Three  Sisters,^'  is  ex- 
cellent.) 

6th  Deschambeaux,  &c.  8. 

ROUTES  FROM  QUEBEC. 

Steamboat.  Leaving  the  dock,  you  pass  under  Cape 
Diamond,  nearly  at  the  foot  of  which  General  Mont- 
gomery was  killed  in  1775. 

Wolfe^s  Cove  is  about  a  mile  beyond.     See  page  132. 

Rapids  of  Richelieu,  page  124.  Three  Rivers,  page 
123.  Lake  St.  Peter.  William  Henry  or  Sorei,  page 
122.     Montreal,  page  114. 

From  Montreal  to  Lake  Champlain,  and  the 
United  States. 

Passage  from  St.  John's  to  Whitehall.  Isle  aux  Noix 
10  miles.  Rouse's  Point  11,  Chazy  12,  Plattsburgh  15, 
Port  Kent  8,  Burlington  10,  Charlotte,  Essex  15,  Port 


ROUTE   FROM   CANIDA. 


isr 


fJlinlon  10,   Dalliba's  Works,  Port  Henry  9,  Chimney 
Point  12,  Ticonderoga  15,  Whitehall  25. 

On  leaving  Ticonderoga,  the  lake  soon  becomes  much 
narrower. 

The  Four  Channels.  Fourteen  miles  from  White- 
hall, the  lake  suddenly  contracts  itself  into  four  narrow 
passages,  between  two  ranges  of  mountains,  which  in 
some  places  present  perpendicular  precipices  ;  and  its  bed, 
at  low  water,  appears  almost  entirely  occupied  by  a  little 
meadow  of  the  brightest  green,  through  which  the  chan- 
nels wind  with  beautiful  turnings. 

A  succession  of  beautiful  little  turnings  are  passed, 
with  ragged  precipices,  and  many  little  patches  of  level 
ground  on  the  margin  of  the  water  ;  while,  on  the  eastern 
side,  the  tow  path  accompanies  the  bank. 

South  Bay  opens  to  the  south,  and  tuns  down  fi\rd 
miles  between  high  mountains.  General  Dieskau  took 
this  route  with  his  arm-) .  in  going  towards  Fort  Edward, 
in  1756. 

The  DkvIl's  PuLPtT  is  a  singular  cavity  in  the  face  of 
k  bare  precipice  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  creek. 

The  El  bow  is  a  narrow  part  of  the  creek,  with  two 
very  short  turns,  through  which  the  passage  requires  a  very 
exact  '.elm. 

East  Bay  strikes  off  at  the  first  bend,  and  makes  up 
five  miles,  along  a  romantic  country.  A  sugar  loaf  hill 
will  be  observed  at  a  little  distance  on  the  right,  which 
rises  above  Whitehall,  and  makes  the  approach  to  that 
place  quite  picturesque. 

Whitehall.  On  the  top  of  a  rock  over  the  harbour 
was  formerly  a  battery,  and  in  the  town  a  block  house. 
Numerous  boats  and  great  quantities  of  lumber  arc  usually 
seen  here,  as  the  Champlain  or  Northern  Canal  begins  at 
the  bridge,  where  are  two  locks,  with  a  sluiceway,  and  a 
rocky  channel. 

The  heights  at  this  place  were  occupied  by  Burgoyne^s 
right  wing,  while  he  was  preparing  to  march  towards  Sa- 
ratoga ;  his  centre  was  formed  by  General  Frazcr;  the 
Brunswickers  on  the  left,  rested  on  the  river  of  Castleton; 
and  the  Hessians  were  at  the  head  of  East  Bay. 


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138 


IIUUTE   FROM   CANADA. 


To  Albany,  by  canal  packet  or  stagecoach,  65  nu. 
Fort  Anne,  12;  Fort  Edward,  9;  here  a  coach  passes  to 
Saratoga  Springs  ;  Fort  Miller,  8 ;  Sehuylersville,  6 ; 
British  Lines,  7 ;  (see  page  78)  ;  Passing  Behmis's 
Heights,  Stillwater,  8 :  Borough,  3  ;  Watorford,*  8j|. 
Hence  railroads  lead  to  Ballston  and  Troy. 

The  road  accompanies  the  course  of  Wood  Creek, 
which  is  dammed  and  used  for  a  canal,  to  which  its  nar* 
rowness  and  depth  give  it  a  strong  resemblance.  This 
creek  is  famous  in  the  history  of  the  operations  in  thi» 
region  during  the  revolutionary  and  French  wars;  and 
after  repeated  exertions  to  clear  it  of  the  logs,  &c.  by 
which  it  was  obstructed,  it  bore  the  troops  sent  against 
Canada,  &c.  which  often  passed  by  this  route,  from  the 
days  of  Queen  Anne.  The  scenery  is  agreeable,  though 
rough ;  and  there  is  1  trie  cultivation  off  the  road. 

Half  a  mile  north  of  the  village  of  Fort  Anne,  Wood 
Creek  makes  an  elbow  to  a  ledge  of  rocks,--  so  near  that 
there  is  but  little  space  for  the  road  between.  Here 
Col.  Sterry  was  overtaken,  in  the  retreat  from  Ticonde 
roga,  in  1777,  by  Burgoyne's  troops,  and  an  engagement 
took  place,  memorials  of  which  are  occasionally  found  in 
the  soil  to  this  day.  A  little  south,  on  the  brow  of  the 
hill,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  stagehouse,  stood  Fort 
Anne,  in  the  revolution. 

The  old  fort  of  the  same  name,  built  many  years  pre- 
viously, and  known  in  the  French  wars,  was  about  half 
a  mile  south  of  the  village,  on  a  gentle  eminence  a  little 
east  of  the  road,  where  some  remains  of  the  old  in- 
trenchments  are  still  to  be  seen. 

The  remains  of  Burgoyne's  Road  begin  about  two 
miles  south  of  Fort  Anne,  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  and  are 
traced  about  three  fourths  of  a  mile,  near  the  present 
road  to  a  wood.  It  was  formed  of  logs,  and  found  ne- 
cessary to  render  the  country  passable  with  his  cannon 
and  baggage  wagons.  The  labour  necessary  for  its  f  ir- 
mation,  superadded  to  that  of  clearing  Wood  Creek  of 
the  obstructions   which  Gen.  Schuyler   had  thrown  into 

*  Saddio  Mountoin,  whose  lody  ridge  will  be  seen  from  almost 
every  point  in  this  vicinity,  is  2,800  Ibet  higher  than  the  ^ite  of 
.Williams'  College.  It  derives  its  name  from  its  re»cmt)lance  to 
a  riding  saddle. 


i 


FORT   EDWARD. 


131? 


h,  65  xtii^ 
passes  to 
3ville,  6; 
Behmis's 
3rd,*    8i. 

d  Creek, 
;h  its  nar' 
ce.  This 
IS  in  this 
I'ars;  and 
s,  &c.  by 
It  against 
from  the 
le,  though 

ne,  Wood 
near  that 
n.  Here 
Ticonde 
gagement 
<f  found  in 
)w  of  the 
tood  Fort 

years  pre- 
ibout  half 
ce  a  little 
le   old  in- 

bout  two 
,  and  arc 
e  present 
found  ne- 
is  cannon 
or  its  f.)r- 
Creek  of 
rown  into 

rom  almost 
the  hite  of 
mt)lance  to 


it  after  the  retreat  of  the  Americans,  was  one  great 
cause  of  the  delay  of  the  British  army,  on  this  part  of 
the  road— a  delay  which  allowed  the  people  time  to  re- 
sume their  spirits,  and  the  officers  to  lay  plans,  obtain 
resources,  and  prepare  for  the  sanguinary  scenes  at  Beh- 
mis's Heights,  and  the  surrender  at  Saratoga. 

French  Mountain  opens  to  view  a  little  beyond,  with 
a  succession  of  high  grounds  in  the  direction  of  South 
Bay,  Lake  George,  &c. 

About  half  a  mile  above  Fort  Edward,  is  the  place 
where  was  perpetrated 

The  Murder  of  Miss  McCrea.  Miss  McCrea  hved  in 
the  village  of  Fort  Edward.  In  the  revolutionary  war,  a 
young  man  named  Jones,  to  whom  she  was  betrothed, 
having  attached  himself  to  the  English  cause,  and  joined 
their  forces  in  Canada,  was  invested  with  a  captain's 
command  in  Gen.  Burgoyne's  army.  After  the  retreat 
of  the  Americans  from  the  lake,  and  while  the  British 
were  approaching,  he  sent  a  party  of  Indians  to  Fort 
Edward  to  bring  his  intended  bride  to  him,  that  he  might 
secure  her  safety.  She  was  very  unwilling  to  proceed 
with  her  savage  conductors  on  the  road  towards  Fort 
Anne ;  and  had  gone  only  half  a  mile  when  the  Indians 
stopped  to  drink  at  a  spring  which  still  flows  by  the 
way  side ;  and  while  here  were  met  by  another  party  of 
Indians  despatched  to  hasten  them  on.  Those  who  came 
last  attempted  to  take  her  under  their  charge  i  but  the 
others,  being  determined  not  to  give  her  up  alive,  bound 
her  to  a  tree  that  is  yet  standing  near  the  spring,  and  shot 
her  dead  with  their  muskets.  Locks  of  her  hair  were 
borne  to  her  lover  to  prove  that  the  Indians  had  performed 
what  they  considered  their  duty  to  their  employer. 

This  story  rang  through  the  country;  and  it  was  re- 
ported that  Gen.  Burgoyne  encouraged  or  at  least  per- 
mitted the  murder.  In  indignant  terms  he  denied  the 
charge ;  and  there  appears  no  probability  that  he  had 
the  least  knowledge  of  it.  He,  however,  was  justly 
chargeable  with  a  great  offence  against  humanity,  in 
bringing  tribes  of  savages  in  his  train,  whose  barbarity  he 
could  never  be  sure  of  restraming. 

Fort  Edward.  This  village  was  built  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  a  fort  raised  during  the  war  of  1755,  for  the 

13 


m^i 


i 


Id 


HO 


TOUT   MILLKR. 


dnfenco  of  this  point  of  the  river.  It  was  first  called  Fort 
I/yman,  after  Gen.  Lyman,  of  whom  wo  have  already  had 
Occasion  to  make  honovirable  mention  at  Lake  Geor/i^e. 
This  spot  was  formerly  called  the  First  Carrying  Place, 
being  the  point  where,  in  iho  expeditions  ai,'ainst  Canada, 
the  troops,  stores,  tfec  were  landed  and  taken  to  Wood 
Creek,  a  distance  of  twelve  miles,  where  they  were  again 
embarked. 

Baker'' s  Falls,  at  Sandy  Hill,  are  worthy  ofparticii- 
Kir  attention,  and  are  seen  to  cjreat  advantni^e  froin  some 
parts  of  the  bank.  The  whole  descent  of  the  river  at 
this  place  is  about  7h  feet. 

Fort  Miller.  The  village  still  retains  the  name  of  a 
fort  erected  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  in  former  times. 
It  was  a  work  of  insignificant  size,  situated  on  the  bank 
and  near 

Miller'^  Falh.  The  descent  of  the  river  hero  is  rapid, 
and  over  a  broken  channel.  The  falls  were  formerly  con- 
sidered impassable  with  safety,  until  Gen.  Putnam  per- 
formed it  while  stationed  at  Fort  Miller,  in  the  French 
war. 

The  Great  Dam.  Above  Fort  Fidward,  a  large  and 
expensive  dam  900  feet  long,  has  been  built  across  the 
river,  and  a  canal  cut  along  the  bank  to  open  a  passage  fo: 
boat9>  [For  places  on  any  route  selected  by  the  traveller, 
see  the  Index.] 

TOUR  OF  NEW-ENGLAND. 

To  Travellers  going  Eastward  from  New-York. 

It  is  recommended  to  the  stranger  who  is  travelling 
eastward  to  see  the  country,  to  determine  on  some  plan  for 
his  journey  before  setting  out.  Steamboats  go  from  New- 
York  to  the  following  places  on  the  northern  shore  of  Long 
Island  Sound:  Greenwich,  Norwalk,  Stamford,  Bridge- 
port,* Stratford,  New-Haven,  Connecticut  River,  (and  up 
that  to  Hartford,)  New-London,  (and  Norwich,)  Newport, 
(and  Providence.) 

*  The  Hmisaionic  Railroad,  from  Bridgeport,  Conn.,  to  meet  the 
Berkshire  liaUroad  uu  the  Ma;it>uchuBetts  liue,  is  already  complete 


Tour  op  new-england. 
EAST  RIVER. 


141 


Loaving  Now-York  in  nnyof  iho  East  River  steamboats, 
the  traveller  has  Brooklyn  on  the  right,  now  the  second  city 
for  size  in  tho  state,  elevated,  well  built,  shady  and  heultl*- 
ful. 

Tho  Navy  Yard,  just  beyond. 

Tho  Railway,  for  ships,  is  above,  on  tho  west  side. 

The  Penitentiary,  and  the  Fever  Hospital,  are  a  littlo 
beyond.  The  Penitentiary  on  Biackwell's  Island,  the 
Poor  House  Farm  opposite,  and  the  Lunatic  Hospital  on 
the  north  end  of  it. 

From  Hell  Gate,  on  tho  distant  high  ground,  west,  is 
seen  the  Lunatic  Asylum;  and  a  number  of  handsome 

to  New  Milford.  35  miles,  and  is  to  bo  finished.in  1841.  It'will  be  73 
mi  08  from  the  Sound  to  Massachusetts.  Tho  Berkshire  Railroad 
will  connect  it  with  the  Grent  VVostorn  Railroad,  at  West  Stock- 
bridge.  Besrun  1837,  estimated  cost,  a  million— has  an  embankment 
and  a  tunnel,  maximum  jrrade  40  feet  per  mile,  a  minimum  curva- 
ture 1000,  feet  radius.  From  Bridgeport  to  West  Stockbridse.  95 
miles— to  Albany  133. 

The  road  to  New-Haven  passes  through  Harlem  on  Manhattan 
Island,  Westchester,  East  Chester,  New-Rochelle,  Mumaronec, 
and  Rye,  in  the  State  of  New-York ;  and  Greenwich,  Stamford, 
Darien,  Norwalk,  Fairfield,  Bridgeport,  Stratford,  Milford,  and 
Orange  in  Connecticut 

In  the  town  of  Greenwich,  33  miles  from  New-York,  is  a  steep 
hill  descending  towards  iho  north,  down  which  General  Putnam 
once  effectod  his  escape  from  several  British  officers  and  soldiers 
during  the  revolutionary  war,  when  returning  from  a  scout.  H« 
drove  his  horse  hastily  down  the  rocky  hill  side,  a  little  east  of  the 
road,  and  near  the  fence,  and  saved  so  much  distance  as  to  elude 
his  pursuers. 

In  the  town  of  Fairfield,  53  miles  from  New- York,  a  mile  or  two 
before  reaching  the  village,  is  a  low,  level  piece  of  ground  on  tho 
right  hand  side  of  the  road,  which  was  formerly  an  almost  impene- 
trable swamp,  and,  at  an  early  period  of  our  history,  was  the  scene 
ofa  bloody  slaughter.  It  was  hither  that  the  romains  of  a  powerful 
and  terrible  nation  of  Indians,  called  Pequods,  having  fled  from 
their  country  about  New-London  and  Groton, after  the  destruction 
of  their  fort  at  Mystic  by  Capt.  Mason,  in  1«36,  were  cither  killed 
or  taken  captive.  This  was  their  last  and  total  defeat,  and  extin- 
guished their  name  as  a  r.ation.  Much  of  the  ground  has  been 
cleared  in  modern  times ;  and  some  reliques  havs  been  found  to 
confirm  the  traditions  of  the  neighbourhood. 

This  place  was  burnt  by  the  British  in  the  revolution.  Danbury, 
an  inland  town,  was  also  burnt,  with  extensive  public  stores,  and 
uu  action  was  fought  in  which  Gen.  Wooater  fell. 


'  4mt. 


-   J.  - 


i* 


1 

% 

rI 

1 

~  -ip*mii 

J 

iftfl 

142 


NKW-HAVKK. 


country  hous«8  along  the  green  shore  on  the  left.  The 
surface  is  broken  by  several  rocks,  and  by  the  agitation  of 
the  water,  particularly  at  tho  whirl  called  the  Great  Pot, 
a  little  north  of  the  point,  and  the  rapid  current  on  the  oppo- 
site shore,  known  by  the  name  of  the  Hog's  Back.  In  coming 
from  tho  north,  almost  the  first  view  of  New-York  is  here 
presented,  between  tho  western  shore  and  Blackwell's  Isl- 
and, with  a  shot  tower  on  the  right. 

Nkw-Haven. — This  is  decidedly  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful towns  in  tho  United  States.  The  soil  is  not  very  good, 
and  the  situation  is  low ;  the  city  is  laid  out  in  squares, 
with  straight  and  broad  streets,  and  the  elevated  ground 
in  the  neighbourhood  renders  the  approach  very  fine  from 
almost  every  direction.  It  stands  at  the  head  of  a  spa- 
cious bay,  with  a  light  house  on  the  eastern  point,  a  small 
battery  on  the  shore,  and  two  Bluffs,  called.East  and  West 
Rocks,  2  or  3  miles  behind  the  town.  A  more  distant 
peak  is  seen  between  them,  which  is  Mount  Carmel.  The 
Long  wharf  is  threa  quarters  of  a  mile  in  length.  The 
steamboats  stop  at  the  bridge,  where  Railroad  cars  for 
Hartford,  and  carriages  will  be  found  in  waiting  to  take 
travellers  to  the  centre  of  the  town,  which  is  more  than 
a  mile  distant. 

Near  the  bridge,  is  the  Steamboat  Hotel.  The  streets 
are  regular  and  pleasant,  forming  squares,  one  of  which  is 
a  green  surrounded  by  rows  of  elms,  with  three  churches 
and  the  State  House  in  the  middle,  and  the  College  build- 
ings, occupying  the  western  side,  presenting  a  scene  pn^ 
bably  not  equalled  by  any  town  of  this  size  in  the  United 
States.  The  abundance  of  fine  trees,  the  neatness  and 
beauty  of  the  dwellings,  the  good  society  of  the  place,  and 
the  distinguished  position  it  holds  as  a  seat  of  learning, 
render  New-Haven  the  resort  of  a  great  number  of  stran- 
gers during  the  travelling  season,  and  the  temporary  resi- 
dence of  not  a  few. 

There  is  a  Hopkins  <jrammar  School  m  the  town,  and 
a  number  of  Boarding  Schools  for  young  ladies. 

Yale  College.  This  institution,  however,  is  the  prin- 
cipal object  which  will  attract  the  attention  of  the  stran- 
ger. It  was  founded  in  1701,  commenced  at  Killing- 
worth,  then  removed  to  Saybrook,  and  after  a  few  years 
permanently  fixed  in  this  town.    The  first  building  was  ot 


TOUR  OF   «K\V-ENGLANT)# 


U^ 


Waoil,  and  stDod  near  the  corner  of  College  and  Clmpel- 
•treefs.  There  are  now  four  biiililing-t  for  sfudiMitB,  each 
containing  32  rooms,  a  Cha|)el,  with  a  PhiIoM)phica! 
cliumber  and  nppanitns,  and  a  [.yceuin,  with  recitation' 
ro()in-»  and  the  library.  In  the  rear  are  the  Trumbull  l*ic- 
ture  Gallery,  the  Common'^  Hall,  in  a  smtiU  building  with 
the  splendid  Mineralogical  Cabinet  above,  which  id  tli© 
finest  collection  of  the  kind  in  the  United  States, purchased 
from  the  late  Colonel  Gibbs,  of  New-York.  In  another 
building  is  the  Chemical  Laboratory,  where  Professor  Silli" 
man  delivers  his  lectures.  The  institution  contains  above 
500  acholars. 

Next  north  of  the  College  is  the  house  of  President 
Day,  and  the  professors  have  pleasant  residences  in  thff 
town. 

The  Medical  Inslilution  is  at  the  north  end  of  College- 
street. 

The  Nkw  BuryknG  Groi/nd  is  situated  opposite  ihc 
Medical  Institution,  and  occupies  a  large  extent  of  \i\\4, 
partly  planted  with  [)oplars,  and  containing  a  great  num- 
ber of  beautiful  monuments,  of  different  desrgns.  It  is- 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  cemeteries  in  this  country. 

The  Old  Boryivg  Groi/nd  was  in  the  middle  of  the? 
green,  in  the  rear  of  the  Centre  Church,  and  there  are  to 
be  seen  two  ancient  stone  monuments,  of  a  small  siztv 
which  are  supposed  to  mark  the  graves  of  two  of  the  re- 
gicide  judges,  VVhalley  and  Dixwell,  ahhough  there  ia 
some  doubt  on  the  sut)ject.     (See  Stiles'  Judges.) 

The  Farmingion  Canal,  commencing  near  the  head  of 
the  wharf  in  this  city,  is  crossed  by  the  traveller  in  going 
up  from  the  steamboat,  near  the  market.  The  basin  i» 
large  and  commodious  j  and  the  canal,  passing  through  n 
part  of  the  city,  and  bending  round  along  the  outskirts/ 
on  the  north  side,  intersects  several  streets,  by  which  it 
is  crossed  on  handsome  bridges.  With  a  gradual  ascent^ 
the  canal  passes  somewhat  cJrcuitously  up  the  vaUey  which 
opens  towards  Mount  Carmel,  between  East  and  West 
Rocks;  and  one  of  the  stage  roads  to  Hartford,  which 
passes  through  Cheshire  and  Farmington,  affords  many 
views  of  it  in  different  places. 

TtHjre  are  pleasant  rides   in   various  directions  frora 

IS*. 


'i. 


h    I 


i      !■ 


^i'" 


1    'i 


■  <      jt 


M4 


NEW-BAVEff. 


New-Haven,  the  roads  being  numerous,  and  iho  face  of 
the  country  favourable.  The  two  nnountainv  command 
extensive  views,  and  though  the  access  is  rather  fatiguingt 
the  excursion  is  recommended  to  those  who  are  fond  of 
auch  enterprises. 

The  Judo Es'  Catb  is  on  the  summit  of  West  Rock, 
about  a  mile  north  of  the  bluff;  and  the  way  to  it  loads 
near  Beaver  Pond  and  Pine  Rock,  (on  the  south  side  of 
which  is  a  small  cave,)  then  between  Pino  and  West 
Kocks.  You  here  turn  off  the  road  to  the  left,  by  a  path 
across  a  brook;  and  a  guide  may  usually  be  obtained  at 
a  small  house  just  beyond,  who  can  show  a  horse  path  to 
the  summit. 

The  cave  is  formed  by  the  crevices  between  seven  large 
rocks,  apparently  thrown  together  by  some  convulsion. 
It  is  small,  and  entirely  above  ground,  with  a  rude  rock, 
like  a  column,  on  each  hand.  That  on  the  right  contains 
this  inscription— 

"Oppoiitioc  to  Tyrants  is  obedience  to  God,'* 

to  remind  the  visiter  that  the  place  once  aflforded  shelter 
to  Goffe  and  Whalley,  two  of  the  judges  of  King  Charles 
the  First,  who  escaped  to  the  colonies  and  secreted  them* 
selves  for  some  tmie  in  this  solitary  place.  They  were 
supplied  with  food  by  a  family  which  resided  near  the 
foot  of  the  triountaiuk  and  a  little  boy  was  despatched  (ot 
them  every  day,  who  left  a  basket  of  provisions  on  a 
rock,  without  knowing  what  cause  he  was  subserving* 
The  place  commands  an  extensive  view  upon  the  coun- 
try below,  with  a  large  tract  of  Long  Island,  and  the 

Sound. 

The  MANurActoRY  of  Muskets  is  3  miles  north  of 
New-Haren,  on  the  road  to  Hartford  by  Meriden,  and  at 
the  foot  of  East  Rock.  It  was  established  by  Mr.  Whit- 
tiey,  the  well-known  inventor  of  the  Cotton  Jin. 

The  New-Hatien  and  Hartford  Railroad,  40  miles 
long,  begins  at  the  steamboat  wharf,  avoids  the  city, 
crosses  Quinnepiack  river,  and  passes  through  the  town* 
ships  of  North  Haven,  Wallingford,  Meriden,  Berlin  and 
\VethersfieId. 


:  face  of 

)mmand 

itiguing, 

fond  of 

t  Rock, 
it  loads 
li  aide  of 
id  Weat 
y  a  path 
ained  at 
I  path  to 

ren  large 
ivulaion. 
de  rock, 
contains 


1  shelter 
Charles 
ed  them* 
ley  were 
near  the 
tched  for 
ms  on  a 
bservingt 
he  coun-> 
and  the 

north  of 
n,  and  at 
[r.  Whit- 


:0  miles 
the  city« 
he  town* 
;rlin  and 


M 


'\>]i 


liih 


H    I 


ll.'l'- 


'•'•/•'<  t- 


/V,  ti', ./  '/I  roo/  i  J  V . .  \ 


J ..     : 

U  ' 

a  i  1   ■ 

ill  ' 

■  ^i      '■ 
i 

'.■I.r.'il 


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,>).sj7ito.yLj\:Si: 


TOUR  or  new-iholand. 


145 


A  ,P"""®^  *^®  general  courte"xjf  « the  old  colonial 
^ad,  '  the  route  taken  in  early  time?  between  New-Ha- 
ven and  Hartford,  which  were  independent  colonies.  It 
was  originally  an  Indian  trail.  It  unfortunately  avoids 
most  of  tho  villages  in  its  neighbourhood,  so  that  the  tra- 
veller who  wishes  to  see  them  should  take  some  other 
road,  through  either  Middlotown  or  Farmington.  (Yot 
those  places  see  Index.) 

Beyond  New- Haven  in  Long  Island  Sound  lies  a  clus- 
ter of  islands  callr-d  the  Thimbles,  famous  m  the  tradi- 
tions of  the  neighbouring  Connecticut  coast,  as  the  ancient 
resort  of  Capt.  Kidd,  a  notable  pirate,  whose  treasures  of 
BOlid  gold,  It  is  still  believed  by  some,  are  rjncealed  some- 
where hereabouts. 

We  shall  here  leave  Long  Island  Sound  to  proceed  up 
Connecticut  River,  and  only  refer  the  reader  to  the  Index 
lor  an  account  of  the  coast  beyowd,  and  the  following 
subjects  and  places :  New-London,  the  Thames,  Nor- 
wich, the  Mohegans,  the  Pequods,  Saccacus's  Fort, 
Stoningion,  Mystic  Fort,  the  Narragansett  shore,  New- 
port,  Providence,  &c. 

Saybrook,  Convecticut.     At   this  place  was   the 
first  settlement  made  by  Europeans  on  Connecticut  river. 
It  was  done  at  the  earnest  solicitation  of  many  of  the 
rightful  proprietors  oi  the  country  un  its  banks,  who  had 
been   iespoiled  of  their  possessions  by  their  formidable 
enemies,  the  Pequods.     The  River  Indians,  as  our  old 
histories  usually  denominate  the  former,  twice  made  ap- 
plication to  the  English  at  Plymouth  and  at  Boston,  to 
obtain  settlers  from  their  native  soil,  offering  to  give  them 
land  enough,  and  to  pay  200   beaver  skins  annually  for 
the  benefit  of  their   society.     Bui  the  undertaking  was 
x;onsidered  too  featardous,  and  it  was  not  until  the  year 
1635,  when  the  Dutch  at  New- York  showed   a  determi- 
nation  to  seize  upon  the  country,  which  they  claimed  as 
their  own,  that  a  small  detachment  of  men  was  sent  from 
jBoston  by  water  to  prepare  for  opening  a  trade  with  the 
Indians,  and  to  build  a  fort  at  the  mouth  of  tho  river. 
Their  haste  was  soon  justified  by  events:  for  immediately 
after  their  landing,  a  Dutch  vessel  entered,  and  proceed- 
ing up  to  iiartfurd,  landed  a  body  of  men,  who  so'on  estt- 


11    't 


H 


Wl 


'! 

i: 

1 

1 

ii^4;i 


I  \i 


>r. 


146 


CONNICTICUT   RIVER, 


blished  themselves  in  a  fort  they  called  Good  Hopc^  on 
a  spot  they  obtained  from  Pf  quod  usurpers. 

The  settlement  of  Saybrook  was  begun  under  a  grant 
made  to  Lord  Say  and  Seal,  Lord  Brook,  and  others,  by 
George  Fenwick,  Esq.  who  fled  to  this  country  with  hi» 
family.  The  old  fort  stood  near  the  present  fort  hill, 
upon  an  eminence  which  has  since  been  destroyed  by  the 
waves;  and  the  ground  immediately  behind  it  was  after- 
wards occupied  by  tbe  fields  and  habitations  of  the  colo- 
nists It  was  expected  from  the  first,  that  the  situation 
would  render  the  place  a  great  city  ;  and  after  the  fear  of 
the  Indians  had  subsided,  the  whole  peninsula,  which 
bears  the  name  of  Saybrook  Point,  was  laid  out  with  the 
greatest  regularity  into  fields  of  an  equal  size,  except  sueh 
parts  as  were  reserved  for  the  erection  of  public  buildings. 

Many  emigrants  were  once  collected  in  England,  and 
prepared  for  a  voyage  to  this  place.  Some  persons  of 
high  rank  and  importance  were  among  them,  and  if  is  a 
well-authenticated  fact,  that  Oliver  Cromwell  had  deter- 
mined to  embark  in  the  enterprise,  and  was  once  on  the 
very  eve  of  quitting  Englan«l  for  ever,  when  some  un- 
foreseen occurrence  prevented  him. 

The  want  of  a  harbour,  and  the  obstacles  presented  to 
a  free  navigation  by  a  large  sand  bar  at  the  mouih  of  the 
river,  have  effectually  prevented  the  expectations  of  the 
settlers  of  Saybrook  from  being  realized;  and  no  remains 
of  their  works  can  now  be  discovered,  except  in  the  rec- 
tangular forms  of  the  fields,  and  the  cellars  of  some  of 
their  dwellings,  just  beyond  the  burying  ground,  the 
foundation  stones  of  which  have  since  been  employed  in 
building  the  neiglibouring  fences.  One  of  the  largest 
excavations  is  said  to  have  been  the  collar  of  the  old  col- 
lege building.  The  soldiers  were  frequentiy  attacked 
within  a  short  distance  of  the  fort  by  the  Pequods,  bat 
they  afterwards  ran  a  palisade  across  the  isthnons  which 
leads  f  om  the  main  land.  Yale  College  was  placed 
here  for  a  time. 

CoNNECTiciJr  River.  The  shores  present  a  con- 
tinued succession  of  hilly  and  picturesque  country,  with 
few  interruptions  of  level  land,  from  a  little  aiiove  Say- 
brook as  far  as  Middletown,     The  iou»hnes«  ai>d  jotK* 


Hope,  on 

er  a  grant 
others,  by 
r  with  hi» 
;  fort  hill, 
yed  by  the 
was  after- 
r  the  colo- 
e  situation 
the  fear  of 
ila,   which 
n  with  the 
xcept  sue h 
!  buildings, 
igland,  and 
persons  of 
,nd  it  is  a 
had  deter- 
•nce  on  the 
I  Sonne  un- 

resented  to 
Duih  of  the 
ions  of  the 
no  remains 
in  the  rec- 
of  some  of 
;round,  the 
Tipioycd  in 
the  largest 
the  ohl  col- 
y  attacked 
jquods,  bat 
mons  which 
ivaa  placed 

nt   a    con- 

untry,  with 
aiiovc  8ay-« 

Mid    SOtWV 


TOUR   or   NEW-ENGLAND. 


147 


nature  of  the  soil  prevent  the  cultivation  of  many  moun- 
tainous tracts  :  yet  there  are  farms  enough  to  give  a  con- 
siderable degree  of  softness  to  the  scenery.  The  variety 
of  rocky  and  wooded  banks,  mingling  with  little  patches 
of  cultivated  ground,  and  the  habitations  scattered  along 
the  river,  is  very  agreeable,  and  often  affords  scenes  high- 
ly picturesque  and  delightful. 

Essex,  7  miles  from  Saybrook,  formerly  called  Petti- 
paug,  is  a  small  village,  situated  on  the  ascent  and  sum- 
mit of  a  handsome  elevation.  During  the  late  war  with 
Great  Britain,  this  place  was  taken  by  the  enemy,  who 
came  up  the  river  in  launches,  and  taking  the  inhabitants 
by  surprise,  occupied  the  town  for  a  few  hours. 

East  Haddam.  The  landing  place  here  is  rocky, 
mountainous  and  wild,  and  a  gciod  specimen  of  a  large 
portion  of  the  town  to  which  it  belongs.  The  late  Gen. 
Champion's  house,  built  among  the  rocks  above,  adds 
much  to  the  appearance  of  the  place.  This  region  is 
famous  for  a  kind  of  earthquakes  and  subterranean  soundst 
which  were  formerly  common  for  a  short  distance  round. 
They  gave  occasion  to  many  superstitious  reports,  but 
have  ceased  within  a  few  years.  They  were  called  Moo- 
dus  Noises,  after  the  Indian  name  of  the  place.  Large 
beryls  are  found  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  many  other 
minerals  interesting  to  the  scientific  traveller. 

Haddam  is  built  on  an  eminence  50  or  60  feet  high, 
which  appears  like  the  remains  of  an  old  bank  of  the  river, 
descending  to  a  little  meadow  which  is  covered  with 
orchards,  grazing  ground,  &c.  while  a  range  of  com- 
manding hills  rise  beyond. 

HiGGENUM  is  one  of  the  little  landing  places  so  numer- 
ous along  the  river's  course,  2  miles  above  Haddam. 

Middle  Haddam,  2  mtVes.  This  is  a  pleasant  country 
village,  stretching  along  a  hill  covered  with  orchards  and 
house  lots,  and  backed  by  higher  and  wilder  eminences. 
It  is  about  6  miles  below  Middletown. 

The  Naruow^s.  Here  the  river  turns  abruptly  to  the 
west,  and  flows  between  two  lofty  hills,  which  it  has 
divided  at  some  long  past  period,  before  which,  there  is 
every  reason  to  believe,  the  country  for  a  great  distance 
above  was  covered  by  a  lake.  A  mile  or  two  eastward  of 
this  place;  there  is  the  appearance  of  an  old  channel. 


'A 


> 
1 


!  r 


I 


I  -11 


148 


MIDDLKTOWN. 


whore  tho  water  pr(»l)nl)ly  run,  nt  n  gront  hiighi  aliovn  itn 
proBOiit  lovol. 

Tho  Lend  Mine  is  n  short  tlistanoo  from  tho  southrrn 
biuik  of  tlio  river,  near  two  or  ihroo  old  houses.  (Sec  a 
little  beyond.) 

Fort  Hill  is  tho  hist  elevated  ptirt  of  tho  southern  hniik. 
It  was  formerly  n  little  fortress  belonging  to  Soniieiig,  iiti 
Indian  chief,  whoso  dominion  extended  over  the  pn-sent 
towns  of  Middlelowii,  CluUham,  and  W<«ther(dield,  Tho 
large  buildings  on  tho  hill  in  MiddleUjwii  belong  to  the 
Wt'Hleyuii  University. 

MiODLKTowN  is  b(>autifully  situated  on  tho  western 
bank  of  tlie  river,  where  tho  water  is  spread  out  to  acon- 
siderablo  breadth,  and  disappears  so  suddenly  at  tho  Nar- 
rows that  from  many  points  of  view,  it  has  tho  appearance 
of  tt  small  lake,  with  high,  sloping,  and  cultivated  shores. 
This  is  a  most  agrueablo  residence. 

2'he  Wcsleynn  University  has  a  building  150  foot 
long,  50  broad,  and  4  stories  high,  with  rooms  for  scholars ; 
n  chapel  with  recitation  rooms  above,  both  of  stone;  and 
an  eating  hall  of  brick,  li>0  feet  long,  with  a  piazza. 

The.  Quarrica  of  Freestone,  on  tho  opposite  shore, 
have  furnished  a  valuable  building  material  for  some  years 
and  have  been  worked  to  a  considerable  extent. 

There  are  various  pleasant  rides  in  this  neighbourhood, 
mrricularly  to  two  picturescpio  waterfalls  in  Middlelield. 
In  tho  direction  of  one  of  them  is  Laurel  Grove,  wbero 
tlio  roud  is  shaded  for  near  half  a  mile  with  those  shrubs, 
which,  in  tho  season,  are  covered  with  flowers.  The  en- 
virons ()f  this  place  aflbrd  other  agreeable  rides.  Thero 
are  various  manufactures  carried  on  here. 

The  Lead  Mine  is  about  two  miles  below  the  town  on 
the  south  shore  of  the  river,  accessible  only  on  fu(»t  or  in 
a  boat,  where  are  several  old  shafts,  which  were  sunk  in 
tho  revolutionary  war,  in  a  slate  rock.  The  ore  is  sulpliii- 
ret  of  lead,  in  veins  of  quartz,  partly  crystallized,  uji'l  af- 
fording a  few  specimens  of  lluato  of  lime,  and  other  mine- 
rals. 

The  Cobalt  Mine  U  about  five  miles  east,  in  Chatham, 
at  tho  foot  of  Rattle  Snake  11  ill.  It  is  not  worth  work- 
iiig,  at  the  usual  price  of  tlie  metal.  Specimens  of  jjeach- 
bloom  of  Cobalt  may  be  picked  up  among  the  rubbish. 


m 


Toun  or  NKw-KNor.iNn. 


liO 


,Tu9t  sonthpi'ly  from  it  irt  a  vc^ry  protr.y  watorfall,  ahout 
thirly  fVol  hi^-^h. 

VVKTHKunritLP,  3  milna  from  HnrfforH.  This  place 
hart  a  hfio  hght  Hoil,  on  an  oxu-nsivo  hmA,  probably  once 
(ho  bottom  of  a  hiko  sinco  drainnd  by  tho  duopuning  of 
tho  rivm'H  channel.  It  in  pcculinrly  favoiirabin  to  tho  cul- 
tiiro  ot  onioHH,  whicli  am  oxporicd  in  prrat  (piantitica  to 
viinous  parts  of  tho  country,  the  Wc«t  IndicH,  &c. 

VVcthcrslicId  wan  iho  Hocond  Rottlcment  mrido  l>y  whitn 
men  in  ConnccticMit.  In  lfi:}r>,  throo  or  four  men  camo  to 
tliiH  phice  and  Mpnnt  the  winter. 

The  Connfclkvt  State  Fnsnn.  Tho  Hituntion  of  thin 
iriMtitution  H  hcMiltliy,  retired,  and  convenic^nt  to  tho  wat.^r 
and  the  groat  road.  Jt  v,m  completed  in  lfll7.  What 
have  luu-etofore  been  iei,ni.rded  as  the  necewsary  evils  of 
pnson.M,  will  here  be  found  f,'rently  reduced ;  and,  in  many 
respects,  cv(!n  with  regard  to  tho  prisoners,  converted  into 
benehts. 

Hero  tho  Atibiu'n  system  lias  been  eBtablishod  with 
some  few  deviations. 

Tho  vvhole  is  luidor  the  direction  of  Mr.  Pilsbury,  a 
man  of  firmness,  judgment  and  humanity.  Tho  men  aro 
brought  out  to  their  work  at  signals  given  by  tho  boll. 
They  lodge  in  solitary  cells,  and  aro  not  permitted  to  con- 
verse together  while  at  work.  They  take  their  food  in 
their  cells,  and  when  going  to  and  from  work  or  prayers, 
are  obliged  to  march  with  the  lock  step.  No  blows  aro 
allowed  to  bo  given  by  the  oflicers  except  in  self-defence. 

Tho  Smiths'  fires  are  sujjpliod  with  Lehigh  (Pennsyl- 
vania) coal  for  fuel;  and  part  of  the  heat  is  conducted 
away  in  pipes  to  warm  the  apartments.  Tho  colls  aro 
furnished  with  comfortable  beds  and  bed  clothes,  and  a 
biblo  for  each.  They  aro  ranged  in  rows,  and  the  keepcra 
can  look  into  them  through  grated  doors  ;  at  tho  same 
timo  tho  prisoners  aro  not  ablo  to  converse  with  each 
other.  The  effects  of  ovil  communication,  so  much  and  so 
bancfuUy  cherished  in  our  old  prisons,  are  thus  effectually 
prevented.  Neither  officers  nor  convicts  aro  allowed  to 
use  ardent  spirits, 

HARTFottT'.      Tans.     Tho  City    Hotel,  Coffee  Houso, 

&c. 

This  is  the  semi-capital  of  tho  state,  and  a  place  of  con- 
sulerablc  business. 


'  U 


1   i 


i 


i ' 


150 


flARTFORU. 


!  I 


The  Charter  Oak.  In  the  lower  part  of  the  town,  m 
the  strnet  which  runs  east  from  the  south  church,  is  the 
ancient  and  respectable  seat  of  the  WyUis  family,  who 
were  among  the  early  settlers  of  Hartford,  and  have  made 
a  conspicuous  figure  in  the  history  of  the  state,  as  well 
as  of  the  town,  by  supplying  the  Secretary's  office  for  a 
long  course  of  time.  This  place  is  now  owned  by  Mr.- 
Bulkley,  and  has  undnrgone  considerable  changes.  The 
principal  object  of  curiosity  here  is,  however,  the  fine  old 
oak,  which  stands  on  the  street  in  front.  It  is  said  to 
have  been  a  forest  tree  before  the  laiid  was  cleared,  yet 
it  appears  as  firm  and  vigorous  as  ever.  In  a  hole  in  its 
trut»k  was  hidden  the  charter  of  the  colony,  when  Sir 
Edmund  Andross  sent  to  demand  it  in  1687  ;  and  there  it 
remained  for  some  years. 

This  interesting  document  is  utill  preserved  in  the  office 
of  the  Secretary  of  the  state. 

The  Asylum  for  the  Education  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb 
is  about  a  mile  west  of  the  town,  on  Tower  Hill.  It  was 
the  earliest  institution  of  the  kind  in  America. 

The  principal  building  is  large,  ornamented  with  pilas- 
tersy  and  surrounded  by  a  garden  and  pleasant  grounds. 
The  house  of  the  superintendent  is  nearby,  and  the  whole 
enjoys  a  fine  situation  with  a  commanding  prospect  and  a 
healthy  neighbourhood. 

The  number  of  scholars  is  about  130.  Some  of  them 
are  supported  by  a  fund  belonging  to  the  institution,  and 
others  by  the  states  of  Massachusetts,  New-Hampshire, 
&c.  Similar  institutions  exist  in  New-York,  Philadelphia, 
and  Kentucky. 

The  Retreat  for  the  Insane  is  a  little  south  of  the 
city,  and  makes  a  handsome  appearance,  being  a  stone 
building  150  feet  long  and  50  wide,  the  wings  having 
three  stories,  and  the  main  building  four.  It  is  capable 
ef  containing  about  fifty  patients,  and  is  warmed  by  flues. 
The  grounds  connected  with  the  institution  include  about 
seventeen  acres. 

Washington  College  is  situated  west  of  the  main  street, 
in  the  south  part  of  the  town.  It  is  an  Episcopal  insti- 
tution, and  has  two  stone  buildings,  one  for  the  students, 
150^  feet  long,  four  stories  high,  with  accommodations  for 
96  pupils  r  and  a  chapel,  which  has  sl&o  rooms  for  recita* 


'  ill 


ROUTE   UP  COMNKCTICUT  IllVKR. 


m 


tion,  the  library,  &c.  Fourteen  acres  of  land  belong  to 
the  institution,  part  of  which  are  devoted  to  the  garden 
with  its  greenhouse.  There  is  a  fine  stone  bridge  across 
Little  River,  and  a  wooden  one  over  the  Connecticut. 
See  also  the  Statehouse,  and  Young  Men's  Institute^ 

{^Montevideo,  the  seat  of  Daniel  Wads  worth,  Esq.  en« 
joys  a  charming  situation  on  a  mountain  nine  miles  west- 
wardi] 

Remarks  to  the  Traveller  at  Hartford.  A  railroad 
leads  to  New-Haven,  and  steamboats  to  Springfield  and 
onward.  Stagecoaches  run  on  each  side  of  Connecticut 
river ;  northeast,  to  Boston ;  east,  to  Providence ;  south, 
to  New-Haven  and  New-York,  (besides  the  steamboata 
to  the  latter  place;)  west,  to  Litchfield  and  Poughkeep- 
sie;  and  northwest,  to  Albany. 

The  traveller  in  New-England  is  advised  to  take  the 
route  up  Connecticut  River,  which  is  the  most  fertile, 
wealthy,  and  beautiful  tract  of  the  country ;  and  to  return 
by  the  way  of  Boston  and  Providence.  This  is  the  route 
we  propose  to  pursue }  but  the  traveller  can  vary  from  it 
as  he  pleases.  He  will  find  such  information  as  this  little 
volume  is  able  to  afford  him  by  referring  to  the  indojc. 

The  fertility  of  the  meadows  in  the  Connecticut  Val- 
ley is  almost  proverbial ;  and  after  what  the  stranger  hag 
seen  of  its  banks  at  Middletown  and  Hartford,  he  will 
learn  with  gratification  that  neither  the  soil  nor  the  beauty 
of  the  cultivation  degenerates  for  several  hundred  miles 
northward.      The    whole  country  is  thickly  populated: 
neat  and  beautiful  villages  are  met  with  at  intervals  of  a 
few  miles  ;  and  the  general  intelligence  derived  from  uni- 
versal education  gives  an  elevated  aspect  to  society.     The 
accommodations  for  travellers  are  generally  very  comfort- 
able, and  sometimes  uncommonly  good  and  elegant ;  the 
scenery  is  ever  new  and  varying ;  many  places  have  traits 
of  interest  in  their  history;  and  the  communication  is  easy, 
from  many  points  of  the  route,  with  the  principal  places 
on  the  east  and  west.     Besides  all  this,  the  roads  are 
peculiarly  fine,  for  they  generally  run  along  the  river's 
bank,  which  is  almost  without  exception  level  and  pleasant, 
and  formed  of  a  soil  well  fitted  to  the  purpose^ 

The  western  side  of  the  river  is  generally  to  be  prefer- 
red ;  but  as  there  are  good  roads  on  both  sides,  and  some 

U 


N    ■' 


J5«, 


ROUTE   UP   CONHECTICUT   ItlVIRr 


villages  and  other  objects  worthy  of  equal  notice  on  UMP 
eastern  shore,  and  good  ferries  or  bridges  are  to  be  met 
with  every  few  miles,  it  will  be  agreeable  occasionally 
to  cross  and  re-cross.  Those  who  travel  along  the  course 
of  the  Connecticut  twice,  would  do  well  to  go  up  on  orie 
side  and  return  on  the  other.  Tliis  is  the  most  direct 
route  to  the  White  Hills  or  White  Mountains  of  New- 
Hampshire.  Those  who  go  to  Boston  will  take  the 
Worcester  railroad  at  Springfield. 

Worcester  is  one  of  the  finest  villages  in  New-En- 
gland. The  country  around  it  is  rich  and  variegated,  and 
the  dwellings  have  an  air  of  elegance  which  does  gieat 
credit  to  the  taste  as  well  as  the  wealth  of  its  inhabitants. 
Brick  is  extensively  used  in  building.  The  court  house, 
bank,  &c.  stand  on  the  principal  street;  and  east  of  it  the 
county  house  and  the  building  of  the 

American  Historical  Society.  This  is  an  institution 
formed  for  the  truly  important  pnrpose  of  preserving 
every  thing  relating  to  the  histoi-y,  traditions,  &c.  of  the 
country.  The  State  Lunatic  Asylum,  conducted  on  the 
humane  system  of  moral  treatment,  is  highly  su'^cessful. 
Number  of  inmates  in  the  year  1840>  391,  of  whom  162 
were  admitted,  155  discharged,  82  recovered,  29  im- 
proved, 29  harmless,  and  15  died. 

The  railroad  leads  east  to  Boston,  and  west  to  Spring* 
fiald,  meeting  that  to  Norwich.  The  Blackstone  Canal 
leads  to  Providence. 

Watchusett  Hills,  16  miles  W.  N.  W.  of  Worcester, 
and  52  W.  by  N.  of  Boston,  are  estimated  at  nearly  3000 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  ascended  by  an  easy  path.  The 
spectator  looks  down  on  a  surrounding  scene  of  wooded 
mountains,  below  which  are  ponds  and  farms,  and  a  view 
over  cultivated  and  inhabited  regions. 

Route  up  Connecticut  Riter, 

Leaving  Hartford  in  the  steamboat  for  Springfield. 

[East  Hartford,  opposite  Hartford,  has  a  sandy  soil, 
but  the  street  as  well  as  that  of  East  Windsor,  next  north 
of  it,  is  shaded  with  rows  of  fine  elms.  The  road  crosses 
Podunk  Brook  by  a  small  bridge,  about  four  miles  from 
Hartford,  on  the  north  bank  of  which,  on  the  left  handr 
was  once  the  fort  of  the  powerful  tribe  of  Podunk  Indians^ 
who  had  their  settlements  on  this  winding  stream,  anvi 


H! 


ROUTE   UP   CONNECTICUT   RIVKR. 


m 


ice  on  liiip 
to  be  met 
xasioiialiy 
the  course 
up  on  one 
lOst  direct 
}  of  New- 
take  the 

New-En- 
^ated,  and 
loes  gieat 
ihabitants. 
lurt  house', 
St  of  it  the 

institution 
preserving 
kc.  of  the 
ed  on  the 
su'^cessful. 
whom  162 
d,  29  im- 

to  Spring' 
one  Canal 

iVorcester, 
jarly  3000 
ath.  The 
of  wooded 
ind  a  view 


rfield. 
sandy  soil, 
next  north 
ad  crosses 
miles  from 
left  handr 
ik  Indians^ 
ream,  aiivi 


eomc  of  their  broken  implements  are  occasionp.Uy  found  in 
the  soil.]  "^ 

Windsor  was  settled  as  early  as  1635.  A  few  months 
after  the  building  of  the  fort,  (probably  a  blockhouse,)  the 
l^utch  gaiTison  at  Hartford  made  a  secret  march  against 
It,  expcctmg  to  take  it  by  surprise ;  but  on  arriving  at  the 
place  they  found  reason  to  give  up  their  enterprise,  and 
returned  without  firing  a  gun. 

East  Windsor,  on  the  opposite  side  of  Connecticut 
nver,  has  a  commanding  situation,  and  is  the  site  of  a 
1  resbyterian  Theological  Seminary, 

The  seat  of  the  late  Chief  Justice  Oliver  Ellsworth 
stands  in  Windsor,  on  the  cast  side  of  the  street,  nine 
miles  above  Hartford.  It  is  distinguished  by  columns, 
and  surrounded  by  trees.  He  was  born  in  a  house  opposite. 

Lnfield.     a  Canal  of  6  miles  passes  the  falls. 

SuFKiELD  is  a  veiry  pleasant  town  about  a  mile  west  of 
the  river,  and  has  a  good  inn,  and  a  mineral  spring  in  its 
vicmity,  which  has  been  the  resort  of  considerable  com- 
pany. The  village  street  runs  along  the  ridge  of  a  long 
and  beautiful  hill,  with  neat  houses  and  white  fences  on 
both  sides,  and  the  home  lots  sloping  east  and  west  to- 
wards the  low  ground.  Some  of  the  houses  are  lar-^o  and 
elegant.  ° 

Suffield  Springs.  About  a  mile  southwest  of  the 
ctreet  is  a  mineral  spring  of  slightly  sulphureous  qualities. 

Springfield  is  a  flourishing  town,  standing  at  the  foot 
of  a  high  hill,  the  side  of  which  is  ornamented  with  fine 
buildings,  the  residences  of  some  of  the  wealthier  inhabit- 
ants, and  the  top  occupied  by  the  United  States  Armory. 
This  establishment  occupies  a  large  space  of  ground,  and 
commands  a  fine  view.  The  buildings  containing  the  work- 
fihops  for  manufacturing  small  arms,  the  arsenal,  barracks, 
&c.  are  surrounded  by  a  high  wall.  The  number  of  work- 
men  required,  which  is  about  260,  has  a  favourable  effect 
■on  the  business  and  prosperity  of  the  place.  About  13000 
muskots  are  made  here  annually,  or  60  a  day.  The  manu- 
factories on  Mill  River,  a  little  south  of  the  armory,  are 
various  and  well  worthy  of  observation. 

The  town  is  ornamented  with  many  fine  elms  and  other 
trees|;Jand  there  are  two  very  handsome  churches.  It 
was  originally  considered  within  the  limits  of  Connecticut 


i  1*1 


'f   f 


i  r 


i|  i"  I 


i 

1 

i 

m 

154 


FKHALB   SEMINARY. 


i    < 


Hi 


colony^  but  at  length  incorporated  with   Masiachuflettfl. 
A  tribe  of  Indians  lived  for  some  years  on  Fort  Hill ;  but^ 
being  won  over  to  King  Philip's  party,  in  1675,  they  as-' 
Buraed  a  hostile  air,  fired  upon  some  of  the  inhabitants 
who  were  going   to   their  fort,  and  burnt  a  part  of  the 
town. 

In  1786,  during  the  rebellion  of  Shays,  he  attacked  the 
armory,  at  the  head  of  a  strong  party  of  undisciplined  men. 
General  Shepard,  who  had  command  at  the  place,  attempted 
to  dissuade  them  from  their  attempt,  and  finally  drove  them 
off  by  firing  twice.  The  first  shot,  over  their  heads,  dis- 
persed the  raw  troops,  and  the  second  drove  off  the  re- 
mainder, who,  being  about  two  hundred  revolutionary  sol- 
diers, did  not  desist  until  they  had  lost  a  few  of  their  men. 
'I'hia  was  the  first  check  the  insurrection  received,  which 
was  put  down  without  much  subsequent  trouble. 

Wilbraham,  7  or  8  miles  west  from  Springfield,  con- 
tains a  Wesleyan  Academy. 

West  Springfield  has  a  fine  street,  shaded  with  large 
elms  and  containing  some  handsome  houses.  It  is  26 
mihss  from  Hartford,  and  about  17  miles  from  Northamp- 
ton. There  is  a  fine  view  from  the  road  on  the  brow  of  a  hill 
a  little  north  of  the  town,  near  a  church,  which  overlooks 
the  river  and  an  extent  of  country  on  each  side,  with 
Mounts  Tom  and  Holyoke  in  front. 

South  Hadley  Falls.  The  village  and  locks  are  on 
the  east  side  of  the  river. 

The  whole  fall  of  the  river  at  South  Hadley  is  52  feet, 
but  at  the  lower  falls  only  32.  There  is  a  canal  2^  miles 
long  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  cut  through  a  slate  rock 
for  a  considerable  distance,  and  in  some  places  very  dev3p. 
The  dam  is  3  feet  high.  There  are  five  locks  near  the 
tavern,  and  one  above.  There  is  a  ferry  here,  which  is 
safe,  but  the  water  runs  very  swiftly. 

South  Hadley.  The  Mount  Holyoke  Female  Semi- 
nary, gives  a  practical  domestic  education  with  intellec- 
tual instruction. 

For  several  miles  before  reaching  Mount  Tom,  the  road 
runs  along  the  bank  of  the  river.  The  river  makes  an 
abrupt  turn  some  miles  above,  running  between  Mount 
Tom  on  the  south  and  Mount  Holyoke  on  the  north ;  and 
when  the  scene  opens  again,  it  disci Jses  a  charming  and 


nOUTE   UP   CONNECTICUT  niVEtt. 


153 


J 


^itlcns'ive  plain,  formed  of  tho  meadows  on  the  river's 
bank,  and  evidently  once  the  site  of  a  largo  lalie,  when  tlie 
water  was  restrained  by  the  barrier  lietwcen  the  mountains. 
This  plain  is  one  of  the  richest,  and  by  far  the  most  exten- 
sive and  beautiful  on  tho  river. 

Northampton  is  situated  at  the  western  s'de  of  tho 
plain,  a  mile  from  tho  river,  and  is  a  favourite  place  of  re- 
sort for  travellers ;  as  it  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  tho 
New-Kngland  villages,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  charming 
country,  and  lies  near  to  Mount  Holyoke,  which  com- 
mands a  view  of  the  whole.  The  streets  are  irregular, 
but  some  of  them  shady  and  delightful  in  summer,  being 
also  ornamented  with  many  neat  houses.  It  is  a  place 
of  considerable  business ;  and  the  soil  makes  valuable 
farms. 

Round  Hill  is  a  beautiful  eminence  just  west  of  the 
town. 

On  the  eastern  declivity  of  the  hill  stands  the  house  of 
the  Stoddard  family,  an  ancestor  of  which  was  a  man  of 
great  talents  and  influence  in  this  part  of  the  country.  In 
King-street,  towards  the  northeast  fiom  that  spot,  stQod 
the  house  in  which  President  Edward3>  Sen.  lived,  Presi- 
dent Edwards,  Jun.  and  Dr.  Dwight  were  born,  and  David 
Brainerd  died.  On  the  east  side  of  the  main  street,  just 
south  of  the  brook^  is  the  house  of  the  lafe  Governor 
•Strong. 

The  Lead  Mine.  In  Southampton,  at  the  distance  of  8 
miles  from  this  place,  is  a  lead  mine. 

Mount  Holyoke. — The  height  is  said  to  be  800  feet ; 
and  there  is  a  good  carriage  road  the  greater  part  of  the 
way  up.     View  from  the  top  : 

Southeast.  The  country  is  undulating,  and  the  soil 
generally  poor;  yet  several  villages  are  discovered  at  a 
distance,  particularly  South  Iladley,  which  lies  immediate- 
ly below.  Southwai-dly  is  seen  Connecticut  river,  retiring 
under  tho  shade  of  Mount  Tom,  whitened  below  by  the 
South  Hadley  Falls ;  beyond  which  is  the  hill  at  Spring- 
field. The  river  makes  several  turns,  and  on  the  horizon 
are  two  very  distant  peaks,  which  are  supposed  to  be  East 
and  West  Rocks  at  New-Haven,  about  70  miles  distant. 

Northeast  is  sees  Monadnoc  Mountain,  in  New-Hamp- 
shire, 

14* 


W'W 


i-P^ 


> 

|~ 

'1 

i 

1; 

II 

1  ■' 

I  i 


«  ...  .  (1  — 

■:^v 

i         H  *H 

.    If 

156 


VIEW   FRuM   MUUNT   HOI.YOKI. 


Norths  you  lookup  the  charming  volley  of  the  Connerli* 
cut ;  l)oi(l»;rod  by  distant  ranges  of  hills  and  mountaiiiH, 
varied  hy  a  few  isolated  peaks,  covered  with  the  richest 
coat  of  vc^tuation,  and  scattered  with  villages  and  innu- 
merable fiirin  hourtes.  The  river  mokos  a  beautiful  serpen- 
tine c(»ur>*e  ;  from  where  it  Hrst  appears  at  the  foot  of  Su- 
gar L»mf  Moimtain,  and  Mount  Tohy*  until  it  reaches  tho 
villttji('.'  oflludley,  which  lies  in  full  view;  and  then  taking 
a  bold  sweep  to  tho  west,  and  llowing  4^  miles,  it  lotums 
to  the  end  of  that  village,  only  a  mile  distant  from  where 
it  first  meet!*  it.  Tbe  whole  peninsula  is  rirh  and  ferliio, 
and  covered  with  cultivated  fields  of  whe«'  (  rn,  grass, 
&.C.  without  being  disfigured  by  fences,  according  to  tho 
custom  prevalent  liereabouts  ;  and  is  tho  richest  sight  upon 
tho  river,  particularly  when  viewed  in  connexion  with  the 
scene  immediately  below,  where  tho  river  flows  on,  almost 
under  our  feet,  and  the  western  shore  presents  the  exten- 
sive Northampton  Meadows,  a  milo  wide.  Following  the 
current  with  tho  eye,  in  the 

Wesi-soulh-wcat,  it  forms  a  still  more  remarkable  penin- 
sula, although  Olio  of  inferior  size :  the  Hockannm  Bend, 
boinpf  tt  turn  nienauring  3^  miles  in  circuit,  while  the  isth- 
mus was  only  4G  rods  across,  or  150  yards.  This  has  been 
cut  through  by  a  flood.  In  the  compass  of  this  view,  from 
tho  north  tt)  the  west  and  south,  niunerous  village  spires 
are  seen,  with  level  fields,  orchards,  and  gardens,  almost 
without  number;  and  the  whole  scene  is  bounded  with 


mountainous  ridges. 


Northampton  is  oeen  about  west  northwest,  with 
Round  Hill ;  and  towards  the  right,  the  top  of  Saddle 
Mountain,  in  the  distance.  There  are  also  others  still 
further  north,  particularly  Haystack  and  Bare  Mountain. 

More  than  30  church  '  epies  may  be  counted  here  by 
taki'ifT  advantage  of  diflert  »t  kinds  of  wea'hcr. 

In  point  of  history,  ^'n^  j  trt  ui  the  Conuctticut  Valley 
immediately  under  the  eye,  belongs  to  the  third  division 
of  settlements,  ciilling  Plymouth  and  Massachusetts  Bay 
the  first  ;  Windsor,  Hartford,  Wetherslield,  &c.  the  se- 
cond. Northampton,  Hadley,and  Hatfield,  were  settled 
in  1653,  and  remained  the  frontier  posts  in  this  direction 
till  after  Philip's  war,  during  which  they  sufll'ered  severely 
from  constant  ularins',  and  the  loss  of  inhivl>i'»»U3,     Thr 


H 

0 


d 


Connecti- 
lountaiiiH, 
\ivi  richoflt 
and  iniiu- 
il  Borpcn- 
oot  of  Su- 
■m^'hes  thu 
mn  taking 
it  rntums 
om  whore 
m\  ferliie, 
rn,  groBs, 
ling  to  the 
sight  upon 
1  with  the 
yn,  almost 
the  exten- 
owing  the 

ble  penin- 
uvt  Bend, 
e  the  iith* 
s  has  been 
new,  from 
age  spires 
IS,  almost 
iided  with 

P8t,  with 
of  Saddle 
thcrs  still 
Viountain. 
d  here  by 

;ut  Valley 
i  divi»ion 
setts  Bay 
c.  the  se- 
re settled 
direction 
i  severely 
ua.     The 


■f} 


'J 

H 

O 


c 

■ 

q 


N 


5;: 


'-.'^  \ 


■».,  i 


1  'I 


k 


ROUTB    UP   CONNECTICUT   RIVSR. 


157 


Indians  who  had  sold  the  lands  on  which  the  towns  were 
built,  had  each  a  spot  assigned  them  within  a  short  dis- 
tance of  the  palisades  with  which  the  now  settlements 
were  surrounded,  and  lived  in  peace  and  good  faith  until 
excited  by  Philip;  after  which  all  the  towns  were  at  dif- 
ferent times  attacked  by  them,  and  some  of  them  repeat- 
edly. Diirinjr  the  French  wars,  on  May  13th,  1704,  the 
Indians  fell  upon  a  little  settlement  at  the  foot  of  Mount 
Tom,  and  killed  20  persons,  more  than  half  of  whom 
were  children  ;  and  a  tradition  stales,  though  without  de- 
signating the  precise  time,  that  a  captive  woman  was  once 
brought  to  the  top  of  the  mountain  where  we  stand,  and 
scalped. 

liadley  was  attacked  by  the  Indians  while  the  inhabit- 
ants were  at  church,  and  was  near  falling  into  their 
hands,  when  a  strangei,  a  venerable  old  man,  made  hia 
appearance,  and  by  his  active  resistance,  encouraged  them 
to  repel  the  enemy.  It  was  not  known  at  the  lime  who 
he  was,  or  whither  he  went ;  hut  there  is  now  little  doubt 
that  ho  was  Goff'e,  one  of  King  Charles's  judges,  who 
was  secreted  for  a  length  of  time  in  this  town,  and  of 
whom  we  have  already  had  occasion  to  speak  at  New- 
Haven.  The  remains  of  his  coffin,  it  is  believed,  were 
discovered  a  few  yea;  s  since,  in  the  cellar  wall  of  a  house 
near  the  present  academy,  which  was  formerly  inhabited 
by  one  of  his  friends. 

Hatfield,  one  mile  further,  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river,  is  much  devoted  to  the  wintering  of  cattle  raised 
on  the  neighbouring  hilly  country.  The  grass  is  very 
fine,  and  the  barns  are  large  ;  which,  with  the  appear- 
ance of  the  houses,  give  the  place  an  air  of  substantial 
agricultural  wealth.     The  cattle  are  bought,  stabled,  and 

fatted. 

Amhekst  is  situated  on  derated  ground,  5  miles  fromt 
Hadley ;  and  off  the  river  towards  the  northeast. 

Amherst  College  ranks  among  the  most  respectable 
in  New- England.  The  situation  occupied  by  the  build- 
ings is  pleasant,  commanding  a  rich,  extensive  and  varied 
view,  partly  over  the  meadows  of  Connecticut  River, 
with  mountains  particularly  mentioned  a  few  pages  back, 
seen  in  different   directinns 


gi: 


i 


.::- 


li  i 


i«  f 


■t . 


Tho     rntirpd    situation    \» 


J  58 


r>EEnPIKLDi 


I'     ! 


'I 


I  . 


I  .   I 


t.>   t 


A 'I  f 


highly  favourable  to  study  and  good  ordor,  as  its  elevatioH 
and  pure  air  are  conducive  to  health.  The  number  of 
Bludents  in  1840  was  about  250.  The  president,  Dr. 
Humphries,  is  also  professor  of  mental  and  moral  Philo* 
eophy  and  Divinity.  There  are  six  other  professors,  and 
tt  teacher  of  French  and  Spanieh,  a  teacher  of  mathema- 
tics, and  a  tutor  of  Latin  and  Greek 

The  SvoAh  Loaf  is  an  isolated  hill  of  a  conical  form, 
rising  in  front  as  we  proceed.     Deerfield  lies  north  of  it 
about  3  miio3  ;  and  the  way  by  which  we  approach  it,  lies 
nearly  along  the  old  road  which  led  thither  through  the 
wildcrnese,  in  1675,  when  it  was  deserted  by  the  settlers; 
and  Capt.  Lothrop  was  despatched,  with  a  body   of  80 
soldiers  and   wagoners,  to    bring  off  the  grain.     At  the 
foot  of  this  mountain  is  the  small  village  of  Bloody  Brook, 
and  near  the  spot  where  a  bridge  crosses  the  stream,  Capt. 
Lothrop  was  ambushed  by  about  800  Indians.     The  place 
was  then  a  marshy  piece  of  grt  ind  ;  and  some  traces  of 
the  road,  which  was  formed  of  logs,,  are  still  to  be  seen, 
running  through  the  fields  without  crossing  at  the  bridge 
The   convoy  halted  at  this  place;  and  the  soldiers  were 
generally   engaged    in  gathering  grapes  from  the   vines 
which  ran  on  the  trees,  having  left  their  muskets  on  the 
ground,  when  the  Indians    fired   upon  them.     Capt  Lo* 
throp  gave  orders  that  the  men  should  disperse,  and  fire 
from  behind  the  trees;  but  they  were  all  cut  off  except  8 
or  10.     This  massacre  was  one  of  the  most  calamitous 
which  ever  occurred  in    New  England,  taken  into  view 
with  the  small  number  of  inhabitants  at  the  time  :  as  the 
company  consisted  of  young  men,  from  the  principal  fa- 
milies in  the  eastern  towns. 

That  part  of  the  meadow  we  pass  through  in  approach- 
ing Deerfield  was  the  scene  of  several  skirmishes  with 
the  Indians  at  different  times,  as  the  place  was  a  fron- 
tier for  many  years,  although  it  was  twice  burned  and  de- 
serted. 

Dberpield.  In  1704,  which  was  the  period  of  its  last 
destruction,  a  large  body  of  Indians,  led  on  by  a  few 
Frenchmen  from  Canada,  came  upon  the  town  before 
daylight.  It  was  winter,  and  the  snow  crust  was  strong 
enough  to  bear  them  ;  they  had  secreted  themselves  on  a 


ROUTK   UP   CONNECTICUT   RIVKR. 


15.9 


s  elevation 
number  of* 
aidant,  Dr. 
loral  Piiilo" 
Bssors,  and 
inalhema' 

nical  form, 
nortli  of  it 
•nch  it,  lies 
Jrough  the 
le  settlers; 
idy   of  80 
1.     At  the 
xiy  Brook, 
Jam,  Capt. 
The  place 
B  traces  of 
i  be  seen, 
;he  bridge. 
Jiers  were 
the   vinos 
ets  on  the 
Capt.  Lo* 
5,  and  fire 
f except  8 
;aiamitou8 
into  view 
3  :  as  the 
incipal  fa' 

approach* 
ishcs  with 
as  a  fron- 
1  and  de' 

of  its  last 
•y  a  few 
'n  before 
as  strong 
Ives  on  a 


hill  northwest  from  Deerfield,  and  sent  in  a  scout.  The 
houses  were  all  entered  but  one,  the  inhabitants  made 
captives,  and  all,  e.xcept  a  few,  taken  off  to  Canada.  One 
of  the  houses  is  standing  at  this  day,  a  little  north  of  the 
church. 

A  house  next  this  was  valiantly  defended  by  seven 
men;  and  the  dwelling  of  Mr.  Williams,  the  minister, 
was  taken,  and  he  and  his  family  carried  to  Canada. 
Most  of  the  people  were  ransomed ;  but  a  daughter  of 
Mr.  W.  became  attached  to  the  savage  life,  inarried  a 
chief,  and  left  children.  Mr.  Williams,  missionary  to  the 
Indians  at  Green  Bay,  was  one  of  her  descendants. 

Some  marks  of  the  old  picquet  may  be  traced  in  the 
rear  of  the  house,  which  is  supposed  to  present  the  ?aino 
appearance  as  in  old  time,  excepting  that  the  kitchen,  &c. 
have  since  been  built,  and  the  front  and  rear  have  been 
covered.     There  is  an  academy  in  this  town. 

East  from  this  place  aro  several  spurs  projecting  from 
the  hill,  on  one  of  which  wag  formeily  a  fort,  for  the  pro- 
tection of  the  Doerfield  Indiana  against  the  Mohawks. 

Greenfield,  3  miles.  Here  tho  stagecoach  pusses  on 
a  road  from  Boston  to  Albany.  The  country  west  is  highly 
picturesque. 

[Turner's  Falls  are  on  Connecticut  river,  two  or 
three  miles  east  from  Greenfield.  Philip,  having  boon 
driven  from  tho  seacoast  and  the  neighbourhood  of  tho 
English  settlements,  in  1670,  by  the  active  operations  of 
Capt.  Church,  Capt.  Moseley,  Capt.  Wheeler,  &c.  retired 
with  some  of  his  followers  to  tho  Northfield  Indians,  who 
held  a  position  on  a  sandy  hill,  on  tho  north  bank  of  tho 
river.  Here  he  was  attacked  in  tho  night  by  Capt.  Tur- 
ner. The  Indians  had  held  a  feast  that  night,  as  some  of 
their  captives  afterwards  reported,  and  were  generally 
asleep,  so  that  tho  attack  of  the  white  men  gave  them  a 
panic,  and  they  lied  to  their  boats,  which  they  launched  in 
such  haste,  that  many  forgot  their  paddles,  and  were  cur- 
ried over  the  falls.  The  rest,  however,  rallied  before  thnir 
enemies  were  out  of  their  reach,  and  being  joined  by  somn 
from  the  island  below  the  falls,  pursued  and  harassed  them 
about  ton  miles,  to  Deerfield.  Bonos  arc  occasionally 
dug  up  near  the  spot,  and  a  few  years  ago  tho  remains  of 


i 


l:i 


i-      I  / 


KiO 


bellows'  falls. 


¥iir 


an  old  musket,  a  few  silver  coins,  &c.  were  discovered 
«.raong  the  rocks. 

This  was  the  last  and  most  severe  blow  Philip  received 
before  he  returned  to  his  native  country  in  Rhode  Island, 
whore  he  soon  after  terminated  his  dangerous  life,  and  the 
war,  which  brought  so  many  calamities  upon  New-England. 

The  Canal.  A  dam  of  great  height  is  built  at  the  falls, 
to  supply  a  canal,  which  extends  two  or  three  miles  for 
boats  and  rafts.  Some  mills  are  also  established  on  the 
river's  bank.  The  fall  is  divided  by  two  rude  rocks,  be- 
tween which  the  water  rushes  in  separate  cataracts ;  and 
the  scenery  below  is  wild,  and  not  a  little  imposing.  There 
is,  however,  no  inn  nearer  than  Greenfield. 

Vernon.  Within  the  limits  of  this  township,  which  is 
the  first  in  Vermont,  was  once  Fort  Dummer,  one  of  a 
chain  of  forts,  built  for  the  protection  of  the  country 
against  the  Canadian  Indians.  The  place  for  some  years 
was  known  on  the  river,  by  the  name  of  Number  One,  be- 
ing the  first  of  four  townships. 

Passing  through  a  pretty  village,  with  several  mills, 
after  a  few  miles,  we  approach  Battleborough,  south  of 
which,  east  of  the  road,  is  a  quarry,  which  furnishes  a 
large  quantity  of  slate  ;  where  may  be  seen  the  mode  of 
quarrying,  splitting,  shaping,  and  packing  it  for  transpor- 
tation. 

Brattleborough  is  a  very  pleasant  village,  situated  on 
an  elevated  plain  above  the  river,  which,  since  the  draining 
of  the  old  lake  in  this  place,  has  made  two  or  three  suc- 
cessive arches  north  of  the  town,  as  it  has  gradually  low- 
ered its  channel  to  the  present  level.  At  the  bridge, 
over  a  small  stream,  are  several  manufactories;  and  in 
the  village  is  a  large  and  comfortable  stage  house,  whence 
coaches  go  to  Boston,  as  well  as  west,  north,  and  south. 

Westminster.  This  is  on  a  fine,  extensive  level ;  and 
on  the  high  land,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  is 

Walpole.  Connecticut  River  being  the  dividing  line 
?)etwv3cn  the  two  adjacent  states,  Walpole  is  in  New- 
Hampshire.  The  situation  is  very  commanding,  and  the 
summit  of  the  hill,  above  the  village,  affords  a  view  of  un« 
usual  extent  and  beauty. 

Bellows'  Falls.     The  height  of  this  fall  is  incon- 


liscovered 

1  received 
le  Island, 
!,  and  the 
■England. 
;  the  falls, 
miles  for 
ed  on  the 
rocks,  be- 
sots ;  and 
g.    There 

which  is 

one  of  ii 

;   country 

»me  years 

One,  be- 

ral  mills, 

,  south  of 

rnishes  a 

mode  of 

transpor- 

ituated  on 
3  draining 
hree  suc- 
ially  low- 
le  bridge, 
;  and  in 
3,  whence 
i  south. 
?vel ;  and 
?r,  is 

iding  line 

in  New- 

,  and  the 

ew  of  un- 

is  incon* 


ROUTE   UP   CCNNECTICUT  HlVlR. 


161 


fiidefable,  but  it  is  on  the  whole  a  striking  object;  strf 
rounded  by  rocky  banks,  and  having  an  abrupt'moimtain 
on  the  eastern  side.  The  place  has  also  been  much  orna^ 
mentcd  by  art :  for,  besides  the  village,  with  its  neat  white 
houses  and  handsome  church,  a  canal  has  been  dug  round 
the  falls,  a  bridge  thrown  over  them,  and  the  rugged  side 
of  the  mountain  decorated  with  a  handsome  country  seat. 

The  rocks  are  of  the  most  firm  and  solid  gray  granite, 
but  are  much  cut  by  the  force  of  the  current.  In  some 
places  holes  have  been  bored  into  them  perpendicularly, 
two  or  three  feet  in  diameter,  and  twelve  or  even  eighteen 
feet  deep.  Thir4  is  done  by  the  motion  givem  to  loose 
stones  by  the  eddies  of  the  streim,  and  the  gradual  en- 
largement of  the  bore  sometimes  breaks  off  great  masses 
of  the  rock.  These  falls  wore  once  the  favourite  resort 
of  Indians  during  the  fishing  season.  On  the  rock  just 
below  the  bridge,  are  some  remains  of  their  rude  attempts 
at  sculpture,  which  represent  the  form  of  human  faces ; 
and  from  one  on  the  end  of  the  stone,  which  appears  to 
have  suffered  less  from  the  attrition  of  the  floods  it  would 
seem  as  if  they  might  once  have  been  more  finished  spe- 
cimens qf  sculpture  than  they  now  appear,  as  that  pre* 
sents  considerable  prominency  and  beauty  of  execution. 

Charlestown.  This  is  one  of  the  prettiest  little  vil- 
lages  in  New-England  :  having  a  wide  street,  partly  shaded 
with  trees,  and  lined  with  neat  houses. 

This  was  called  township  No.  4.  The  fort,  built  for 
the  defence  of  the  place  in  1743,  stood  on  the  gently 
rising  ground  a  little  south  of  the  church,  where  the  street 
runs.  It  was  most  gallantly  defended  by  Capt.  Stevens,  in 
1747,  against  a  large  number  of  French  and  Indians  :  al- 
though repeatedly  called  upon  to  surrender,  the  garrison 
persisted  in  the  defence,  digging  into  the  ground  to  shelter 
themselves  from  the  enemy's  fire,  and,  after  several  days, 
succeeded  in  driving  them  away.  Captain  S.  received  a 
sword  for  his  bravery. 

Jarvisy  Farm  at  Wethersfield  Bow,  on  the  west  side 
of  the  river,  is  very  extensive,  and  contains  a  number  of 
large  buildings  for  dwellings,  barns,  stables,  &c.  princi- 
pally of  brick. 

The  road  beyond  affords  some  romantic  scenes.  Thw 
hills  approach  the  river  very  nearly,  and  several  views 


J  ■  I 


': 


162 


ROYALTON* 


1%  I  I 


are  caught  between  them,  of  the  mountain  behind  Wind- 
sor, which  is  about  2,000  feet  in  height,  and  divided  into 
three  peaks,  whence,  it  is  said,  it  derived  the  name  of 
Ascutney,  which,  in  the  Indian  language,  means  Three 
Brothers. 

Windsor  is  a  fine  and  flourishing  town,  in  a  very  pic- 
turesque situation,  particularly  when  viewed  from  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river ;  and  contains  a  good  stagehouse, 
■&  number  of  stores,  some  elegant  houses,  two  or  three 
handsome  churches,  and  the  State  Prison. 

Mount  Ascutney.  A  great  part  of  the  way  up  this 
mountain  a  road  has  been  cut,  and  the  traveller  will  be 
richly  rewarded  for  the  labour  of  the  ascent. 

The  Gulf  Road,  Those  who  are  going  westward 
from  this  part  of  the  river,  are  counselled  to  take  the 
Gulf  Road  to  Burlington,  on  Lake  Champlain,  to  which  a 
stagecoach  runs.  Although  the  route  is  through  the  chain 
of  the  Green  Mountains,  the  way  is  remarkably  smooth 
and  easy,  following  the  courses  of  the  White  and  Onion 
Rivers,  which  have  cut  deep  channels  through  the  rocks. 
You  have,  however,  first  to  go  sixteen  miles  along  the 
western  bank  of  the  Connecticut  to 

White  River.  Here  great  quantities  of  lumber  are 
brought  down,  sawed  on  the  stream,  and  sent  by  the  Con- 
necticut in  rafts  to  the  country  below.  Dartmouth  Col- 
lege, at  Hanover,  is  five  miles  north,  and  those  who  are 
going  to  the  White  Mountains,  will  of  course  pursue  that 
route ;  (see  p.  164  ;)  but  the  following  deviation  is  made 
for  those  who  are  going  to  Lake  Champlain. 

The  road  up  the  White  River  lies  along  the  north 
bank,  and  passes  through  several  beautiful  and  flourish- 
ing villages.  This  was  one  of  the  courses  formerly  chosen 
by  the  Indians  of  the  north  in  their  commerce  with  those 
on  the  borders  of  that  river,  before  the  arrival  of  Euro- 
peans ;  and,  with  the  exception  of  a  short  portage,  between 
the  White  and  Onion  Rivers,  they  brought  their  furs  from 
Canada,  by  water.  During  the  Indian  and  French  wars, 
this  route  was  frequently  used  for  more  hostile  purposes ; 
and  captives  were  taken  from  these  settlements  so  late  as 
the  revolutionary  war.  The  scenery  is  interesting  and 
various  all  along  the  route. 

RoYALTON,  a  pretty  village.     This  place  was  burnt. 


ROUTE   UP   CONNECTICUT   RIVER. 


1G3 


id  Wind* 

ided  into 

name  of 

ng  Three 

very  pic- 

from  the 

igehouse, 

or  three 

ly  up  this 
ir  AVill  be 

A^estward 
take  the 
)  which  a 
the  chain 
yr  smooth 
nd  Onion 
he  rocks, 
along 


the 


mber  are 
the  Con- 
)uth  Col- 
I  who  are 
irsue  that 
1  is  made 

he  north 
flourish- 
ly  chosen 
nth  those 
of  Euro- 
,  between 
furs  from 
ich  wars, 
)urposes ; 
30  late  as 
iting  and 

18  burnt. 


i% 


Oct.  16th,  1781,  by  300  men,  principally  Indians,  who 
came  down  from  Canada.  They  killed  two  men  and  took 
away  six  prisoners  to  Montieal. 

Randolph  is   considered  one   of  the   most  beautiful' 
towns  in  Vermont,  and  a  stagecoach  likewise  passes  that 
way. 

Gulf.  The  entrance  of  this  remarkable  passage  from 
the  east,  is  Under  the  btow  of  an  abrupt  motintain,  where 
a  branch  of  White  River  flows  along  by  the  road  in  a 
gentle  current. 

The  Gulf  road  extends  six  miles,  and  the  ground  is  so 
level  that  it  has  been  proposed  to  make  it  the  course  of 
a  canal.  On  the  height  of  land  is  a  pond,  from  which 
flows  a  stream  into  the  valley.  Part  of  it  joins  the  White 
River,  and  part  the  Onion  River. 

MoNTPELiER  is  the  capital  of  Vermont,  and  a  very 
pretty  town.  It  contains  the  State  House,  a  Court  House, 
an  Academy,  and  other  public  buildings  * 

From  Montpelier  to  Burlington,  the  road  pursues  the 
course  of  Onion  River  nearly  the  whole  distance,  and 
affords  a  successipn  of  hilly  and  mountainous  scenery, 
such  as  is  characteristic  of  the  state. 

On  the  road  from  Montpelier  arc  two  remarkable 
Waterfalls,  in  the  Onion  River.      They  are  so  near  the 

*  History  or  the  State.— The  first  discovery  o£  Vermont, 
was  made  in  1609,  by  Samuel  Champlaiu,  who,  after  establishing 
a  colony  at  Quebec,  proceeding  up  the  rivers  St.  Lawrence  and 
Sorel,  explored  and  gave  his  own  name  to  the  lake  which  washes 
the  western  part  of  the  state.  In  1724,  the  government  of  Massa- 
chusetts erected  Fort  Dummer,  in  the  town  of  Brattleborough,  on 
Connecticut  river.  The  first 'settlement  in  the  western  part  of  the 
state  was  commenced  by  the  French  in  1731,  in  the  town  of  Addi- 
son, and  at  the  same  time  they  erected  a  fort  at  Crown  Point. 
The  government  of  New-Hampshire  began  to  make  grants  of 
townships  within  the  present  limits  of  Vermont  in  1749,  ut  which 
time  the  settlement  of  Bennington  was  commenced,  and  at  the 
same  time  a  violent  controversy  ensued  between  the  New-Hamp- 
shire grants,  and  the  province  of  New- York.  The  first  conven- 
tion of  the  state  met  at  Dorset,  in  1776,  and  the  first  constitution 
was  adopted  by  a  convention  assembled  at  Windsor  in  July,  1777, 
but  tlie  organization  of  the  government  did  not  take  place  until 
March,  1773. 

The  difficulties  between  Vermont  and  New-York  were  amicably 
settled  in  1790,  and  the  next  year  she  was  admitted  into  the  con- 
federacy of  the  elates. 

15 


f     !■ 


11 

ii 

ill 

|i 

"ill 

i'fffl  ^' 

1 

1 

iH ' 

m 

ill 

flHit 

1 

v.  I 


]64 


DARTMOUTH   COLLEOK. 


road  that  thoy  will  be  heard  in  passing,  and  aeen  by  tak 
inc;-  a  few  steps. 

Burlington  is  a  largo  and  beautiful  town,  and  en* 
^oy3  on6  of  the  finest  situations  on  Lake  Champlain. 
The  ridge  of  the  hill,  on  the  declivity  of  which  it  is  built, 
commands  an  extensive  view  upon  the  lake,  with  tho 
numerous  mountains  which  border  its  western  shores, 
and  a  large  expanse  of  water  on  the  right  and  left.  Im- 
mediately below  is  the  bay,  bounded  by  high  land ;  and 
the  elegant  dwellings  and  beautiful  gardens  of  the  more 
wealthy  inhabitants,  ornament  the  foreground. 

The  Steamboats  stop  here  on  their  way  to  Whitehall 
and  St.  John's  (the  route  to  Montreal;)  and  the  traveller 
is  referred  to  pages  107  and  103,  99,  and  137  for  the  objects 
on  the  lake  in  those  directions.  \_Returning  to  the  Con- 
necticut river, ^ 

Hanover.  This  village,  21  miles  above  Windsor,  is 
remarkable  as  the  seat  of  Dartmouth  College,  an  institu- 
tion which  holds  a  very  respectable  rank  for  learning  and 
influence,  the  number  of  its  pupils,  and  the  ability  of  its 
officers.  It  was  founded  for  the  education  of  Indians,  and 
was  named  after  William,  Earl  of  Dartmouth.  It  posses- 
ses a  large  tract  of  laiid^  which  was  long  unproductive ; 
and  the  college  building,  which  is  large  and  inhabited  by 
the  students,  has  a  fine  aspect.  Several  of  the  houses 
about  the  green  are  very  neat,  and  the  ground  being  elevat- 
ed, the  place  is  very  pleasant. 

The  Medical  Institution  is  a  brick  building,  a  little 
north  from  the  square. 

The  road  between  Hanover  and  Haverhill,  18  miles, 
presents  few  objects  of  much  interest;  the  country  not 
being  thickly  populated,  and  no  villages  intervening,  ex- 
cept one,  which  has  several  very  neat  houses. 

The  Strafford  Copperas  Works  are  nine  miles  north  of 
Norwich.  One  of  the  buildings  is  267  feet  long.  The  oro 
is  pyrites,  taken  from  a  stratum  in  a  hill,  overlaid  by  a 
crust  of  a  ferruginous  earth  containing  petrified  leaves, 
&c.  The  ore  is  broken  and  thrown  into  heaps,  for  about 
two  months,  when  it  gradually  undergoes  a  chemical 
change,  emitting  a  spontaneous  fire  and  fumes  of  sulphur. 
It  is  then  leached  in  tubs,  and  the  water,  after  boiling, 
yields  crystals  of  copperas,  of  a  rhombic  form  and  a  beau- 


BOUTE   UP   CONNECTICUT   RIVER. 


165 


tifijl   green  colour.     The   manufactories   produce  about 
10,000  tons  annually. 

Haverhill.  There  are  three  villages  in  this  town,  but 
the  northern  one  is  where  the  Boston  road  comes  in,  and 
where  there  are  two  good  inns.  The  situation  is  elevated 
and  overlooks  the  meadows  for  some  distance.  The  distant 
scenery  is  here  very  Hne,  as  Moosehillock  Mountain  and 
several  others  are  in  plain  view,  and  serve  as  an  intro- 
duction to  the  White  Mountains,  which  we  ure  ap- 
proaching. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  Piermont,  where  is 
a  Sulphur  Spring  of  some  local  celebrity,  with  a  building 
for  baths. 

The  Great  Ox-bow  is  a  meadow  containing  about  500 
acres,  lying  in  the  town  of  Piermont  on  the  western  bank, 
and  in  the  form  of  a  crescent.  The  soil  is  fine  and  valu- 
able ;  but  from  the  comparatively  small  extent  of  the 
meadow,  it  cannot  be  compared  with  that  of  Hadley. 

From  Bath  to  the  White  Mountains,  there  are  two 
roads,  one  of  which  turns  off  through  Lisbon,  Bethlehem, 
Breton  Woods,  Nash  and  Sawyer's  Patent,  and  Shad- 
bourn  and  Hart's  Patent.     \_See  Index.'] 

Such  is  the  wildness  of  the  country,  that  we  can  do 
little  more  than  enumerate  the  places.  The  road  is  new, 
in  many  places  rocky,  and  in  others  rough,  on  account  of 
the  logs  which  have  been  laid  down  to  support  it,  and 
the  remains  of  the  stumps  of  trees.  But  it  is  more  di- 
rect and  much  less  mountainous,  than  that  which  passes 
through  Lancaster.  It  does  not  however  afford  that  fine 
view  of  the  Connecticut  Valley,  nor  of  the  ranges  of 
mountains  which  there  surround  it,  like  a 
amphitheatre. 

Fran  CON  lA.  This  is  a  secluded  village  among  the 
mountains,  where  iron  is  manufactured  to  a  considerable 
extent.  It  is  at  the  foot  of  Haystack  Mountain,  which  is 
about  half  way  between  Mount  Washington  and  Moose- 
hillock — 20  miles  from  each. 

The  Haystack  may  be  ascended  by  any  traveller  dis- 
posed for  arduous  enterprises  of  this  description  :  but  it  is 
not  recommended  in  preference  to  the  ascent  of  Mount 
Washington,  which  is  rather  less  difficult.  A  foot  path 
turns  off  from  the  road  about  6  miles  from  Franconia, 


magnificent 


ICG 


NEW-LONDoN. 


li^. 


Ill 


i'i 


which  conducts  to  tho  Bummit,  3  miles.  Tho  first  two 
miles  are  through  thick  litMTilocks,  hacmetac,  spruce,  «fec. 
then  I  mile  stuutotl  trees,  and  tho  rest  bare  rocks.  Near 
tho  spot  where  the  path  begins  is  a  remarkublo  Lusua 
NaturtB,  formed  by  a  rock  on  the  side  of  a  mountain, 
which  bears  a  resemblance  to  the  human  face  in  profile. 
The  forest  shrubbery  extends  to  the  margin  of  tho  bare 
rocks  much  in  tho  proportion  of  tho  bust  of  a  man.  It 
is  called  the  '*  Old  Man  of  the  Mountain.''^  The  preci- 
pice is  600  or  1000  feet  high,  and  rises  from  the  side  of  a 
pond,  which  is  a  source  of  tho  Pemigewasset  river.  Tho 
neighbouring  region  is  so  mountainous,  that  more  than 
Jifty  peaks,  it  is  said,  may  be  counted  from  the  top  of  tho 
Haystack.  Indeed  the  view  from  that  eminenre  embraces 
nothing  but  mountains,  with  here  and  there  a  cleared  spot 
on  tho  Plymouth  road,  and  numerous  marks  of  slides  or 
avalanches  made  by  the  inundation  in  182G. 

Lancaster  is  a  very  pleasant  town,  and  the  last  on  the 
river  which  merits  that  name.  The  surrounding  moun- 
tains form  a  noble  scene,  superior  to  every  other  of  this 
nature  along  its  course. 

The  Canada  line  is  only  40  miles  north,  and  lies  along 
the  Pomicotiunt.     The  following  are  the  towns :  North- 
.umberland,  Stratford,  Columbia,  Colebrook,  and,  the  last 
stage,  Stewartstown. 

[Having  now  completed  the  route  up  Connecticut  River, 
we  return  to  Long  Island  Sound.  For  other  routes  and 
places,  sec  Index.] 

NEW-LONDON,  CONNECTICUT. 

Entering  New-London  Harbour,  (in  a  New-York  steam- 
boat,) on  the  left  is  the  Light  House. 

Fort  Trumbttll  occupies  a  point  beyond,  and  is  garri- 
soned by  the  United  States.  It  was  taken  in  the  revolu- 
tionary war,  as  well  as  the  town,  and  Fort  Griswold, 
which  stands  on  the  high  hill  opposite.  Looking  up  the 
River  Thames,  the  prospect  is  handsome,  the  banks  be- 
ing high  and  cultivated,  and  backed  by  Horton's  Hill 
sevefal  miiles  distant,  in  the  Mohegan  country. 

Steamboats  touch  here  daily  f^r  New- York  and  Nor- 
wich.    At  Norwich  you  take  the  railroad.     See  p.  169. 


I 


^i)ii 


m 


Route  from  niw-youk  to  noaTo.v. 


icr 


first  two 
)ruco,  (fee. 
ks.  Near 
bio  Lusua 
mountain, 
in  profile. 
r  tlio  bare 
man.  It 
.'he  preci- 
I  side  of  a 
/er.  The 
noro  than 
top  of  tho 
embraces 
!ared  spot 

slides  or 

ast  on  the 
ng  moun- 
ler  of  this 

lies  along 
i :  North- 
l,  the  last 

3ut  River, 
)utes  and 


rk  steam- 

I  is  garri- 
le  revolu- 
xriswoldf 
ig  up  the 
}anks  bo- 
Hill 


m's 


and  Nor« 
p.  169. 


The  Harbour  of  New-London  is  one  of  the  most  ac* 
ftessible,  safe  and  (:<iriiinf»(li(tUH  in  tho  United  States,  lyin;*- 
bear  the  Oeean  and  the  Nound,  almost  surrounded  by  biiih 
land,  and  having  water  enouf^h  for  ships  of  war  quite  up 
to  the  wharves,  with  a  line  snndy  bollum  near  tho  shores, 

New-London  is  the  third  town  in  Connecticut  for  the 
number  of  inhabitants.  It  is  situated  irregularly,  princi* 
J)ally  at  the  foot  of  a  hill  facing  the  cast,  and  wears  an 
appearance  of  decline ;  but  some  of  the  houses  arc  hand' 
some,  and  there  are  several  line  situations  near  the  top  of 
the  hill. 

There  is  a  road  hence  to  Providence,  and  another  from 
Norwich^  (13  miles  up  the  Thames,)  both  equally  unin* 
leresting,  and  nearly  of  equal  length.  The  river,  how* 
bver,  aflbrds  some  veiy  pretty  scenes,  and  Norwich  is  a 
neat  and  interesting  t»)wn. 

Fort  Griswold,  o])posite  NewLondon,  was  garrisoned 
by  a  few  continental  troops  in  tho  year  1781,  in  the  revo- 
lution, when  Benedict  Arnold,  after  his  treacherous  deser* 
lion  of  the  American  cause,  appeared  oft' the  harbour  with 
a  British  force  on  the  Gth  of  September  ;  and  landing  800 
men  on  each  point  of  the  harbour,  marched  up  and  took 
Fort  Trumbull,  and  burnt  the  town.  Col.  Eyre,  who  com- 
manded the  troops  on  the  eastern  shore,  proceeded  to* 
wards  Fort  Griswold,  and  sending  in  a  flag  of  truce,  de* 
manded  a  surrender. 

But  before  this  time,  Col.  Ledyard  had  entered  tha 
fort,  and  garrisoned  it  with  120  men,  chiefly  militia  volun- 
teers from  the  neighbourhood.  The  British  troops  had 
advanced  under  cover  of  a  wood,  and  invested  tho  fort ; 
but  the  Americans  defended  themselves  for  some  time, 
beating  off  their  enemies  once,  and  finally  surrendered, 
when  resistance  would  have  been  entirely  useless.  Tho 
enemy  had  lost  41  officers  and  men,  who  were  butied  nenr 
the  spot;  with  Col.  Eyre,  the  commander,  wounded, 
and  Major  Montgomery  killed.  After  tho  surrender,  how* 
ever,  a  massacre  of  the  prisoners  took  place,  which  cant 
the  deepest  disgrace  on  the  expedition  :  70  officers  and 
men  being  the  victims,  most  of  whom  were  heads  of  fami- 
lies. Many  of  the  wounded  were  also  treated  in  a  most 
barbarous  manner,  being  placed  in  a  cart,  and  rolled  down 
the  hill  just  souili  oi  the  pnisent  road  to  the  fort.     ThtJ 

15* 


*   ♦        .1        •! 


168 


STONINQTOW. 


liifl 


%i\ 


\ 


•; 


ovont  1ms  boon  conimomomtiul  by  building  by  aubsciiplion 
a  tnoriuint'nt  on  t}i)^  spot. 

Forf  Hill  is  a  connniuuiin^  oininciKi',  about  4  iniloi 
onst  tVoni  N.  lioiiddM,  ilml  dorivcH  tls  nanu)  IVoni  a  I'oquod 
fort,  vvliicb  formerly  o(*('.U]ii*>il  its  Huniinit.  Tlii<  nm«l 
croHSoa  ittu^nr  llin  sonlborn  limit  of  tlu!  fort,  iind  ii  Hnitill 
churcli  Hlands  a  (|Uiirl»T  of  a  m'\\^^  aliovo,  within  tbocxicui* 
sivo  wpaco  onco  iMirloHcd  by  tliiit  imlirtiidcd  work.  Jt  was 
IJK^  f^roat  fortrowrt  of  ibo  terrible  l'e(jUod  nation,  which 
inak(!s  a  very  conspirucMH  figure  in  the  early  liiHlory  of 
the  eastern  roloniert.  They  hud  fouj; hi  their  way  from  thd 
interior,  and  seated  thernselvoH  in  the  preHont  limits  of 
(JroUm,  where  i\w  few  poor  remains  of  their  descenduntB 
Htill  are  found.  ( )n  the  arrival  of  the  Kn/;liMh,  tlu^y  hud 
»)j(lended  their  concpiests  a  considerablo  diatanco  up  Con* 
ni'cticut  river,  and  the  eastern  and  wuslurn  Nehuntics  on 
tho  coast  wore  subjert  to  thorn. 

In  conse(|uence  of  tho  murders  they  had  conunittcd, 
nnd  tho  attack  with  which  they  threatened  the  infant  set- 
tlements at  Hartford,  Windsor,  and  VVethcrsfield,  tho 
inhabitants  formed  an  expedition  in  tho  spring  of  1G37, 
lod  by  Capt.  Mason,  attacked  their  other  fort  on  tho 
Mystic,  burnt  it,  nnd  killed  about  (iOO  persons :  after 
which  the  nation  flod  from  their  country  ;  and  liavinjj^  suf- 
fered another  terrible  slaughter  in  the  owamp  at  Fairlield, 
(see  that  place,)  were  n^duccd  to  slavery,  and  ceased 
from  that  time  to  bo  an  object  of  terror. 

This  hill  commands  an  extensive  and  delightful  vioW| 
being  almost  entirely  clear  of  obstructions,  and  being  supe- 
rior in  hciight  to  tho  neighbouring  hills.  A  considerable 
extent  of  Lung  Island  and  the  Sound  are  overlooked  from 
the  summit,  with  various  islands,  bays,  and  points  on  the 
Connecticut  coast.  At  tho  lime  of  the  burning  of  Mystic 
Fort,  it  was  occupied  by  the  chief  Sachem,  Sassacus,  who 
hastened  to  the  relief  of  his  subjects,  but  arrived  too  hite 
to  render  them  any  assistance.  On  his  return  here,  ho 
burnt  the  weekwams  and  palisadoes,  and  immediately  fled 
for  refuge  to  the  Mohawks,  by  whom  he  was  beheaded. 

Mystic,  7\  miles. 

Stonington.  Steamboats  go  daily  to  New-York.  The 
Providence  and  Stojiington  Railroad,  47  miles,  leaves 
the  shore  of  JiOng  Island  Somid  at  the  steamboat  whaif  in 


noUTK   J'RoM   NKW-yoIlK   To   tloSToM. 


W) 


ubsciiption 

lit  4  inil(!!i 
III  a  Triitiocl 
Till)  nm<l 
iiul  a  Hiiiiill 
I  tliii  cxuni* 
k.  It  was 
ion,  which 
'  liinlory  ot' 
ly  from  llid 
It  limits  of 
cflcctKlurits 
li,  thoy  hud 
CO  up  Con- 
3huntic8  on 

coniiniltod, 
t  infunt  set- 
rsfidd,  thu 
ig  of  1C37, 
ort  on  tho 
■tons :  after 
liavinjj;-  suf- 
it  Fairlicld, 
und  ccasud 

;htful  vicW| 
being  supc- 
onsidcrablcj 
ookcd  from 
Dints  on  the 
g  of  Mystic 
)3acu9,  who 
■ed  too  late 
irn  here,  ho 
idiately  fled 
headed. 

York.  The 
iles,  leaves 
•at  whaif  in 


Rtnniiig:toii,  pasjm  lhroin;h  iho  town,  croHson  I'auratuC. 
Uivor  into  IUkhIc  Irtliiml,  up  (Ihtiih'N  Hiv»^r  Vallny  to  Sfior- 
fniiii'M  l*oinl  in  Stnilh  l\iii;;MiMii,  rnnili  to  Mimt,  (rriicnwich; 
Und  acrosH  a  •♦teani  frrry  lo  I'rovidfiKtc,  to  meet  the  Hoh* 
ton  and  I'rovidi'iice  Kiiilnmd.  Kiiiishcd  in  IHIJT  for  two 
tnillioiiH;  Hiiintiiit  'Myj,  f.ri-f,  tnaKinnmi  ^^'ade  I}.")  fcot,  14 
niiirs  nnarly  level,  iiiiiiimiiin  nuliuA  J(i:J7  feet,  in  one  Miiot 
400. 

On  dnscendln'J!'  lli(*  hill  which  linidrt  into  thU  villapo, 
I'orti-r's  HnrU,  MO  or  40  i'orV  hiuh,  in  Hcen  a  III  lie  olf  tlif! 
road  on  the  rit^hl  hiiiid.  Undctr  ihe  Hheller  of  it,  it  is  naidj 
Cant.  Mason  encamped  with  Inn  little  army  on  tin;  niglit 
of  May  tiO,  UhV/,  old  Htyle,  a  few  lioiirH  before  bin  hiic- 
«es8f(d  attack  on  the  Hecond  I'etpiod  fort,  which  wan  on 
the  top  of  a  hill  about  two  mib^rt  Houih  of  this  place. 

IIoi'KiNToN,  11  miles;  WkSt  (Ifikknwk'u,  l.'i;  Ck«- 
TUttviLLB,  a;  ruoyiDKNc'K,  11.     {Hcc  ludcic.) 

THE  IlIVKIl  THAMES. 

Stcctmhodt  Route  from  NciO-London  to  Norwich. 

A  little  aliove  New-London,  there  is  rt  singulilr  rock,  ort 
the  east  aide,  wher'e  the  eXplot'ors  of  the  river  are  f»aid  t(/ 
havo  landed,  and  to  liave  been  attacked  by  the  I'lujiiods* 
The  Mohegan  country  lies  above,  on  the  west  aide,  with 
Horton'a  Hill,  on  the  top  of  which  Unca»  had  a  fort/ 
something  of  vvh'cb  still  remains.  It  is  a  very  command-' 
ing  position,  and  oviirlouks  the  surrounding  cfiiintry.  I)ur'« 
ing  the  late  war,  tho  government  ships  Macedonian ^ 
United  States,  and  Hornet^  vrhich  were  in  tho  river,  lay 
moored  here  fof  a  length  of  time,  and  thfur  guns  wertf 
drawn  up  by  oxen  to  the  top  of  tho  hill  on  tho  east  shore^ 
above  the  little  cove. 

TilADiNo  CoVK,  1  mile  rtbovo  Kiah's  Cove,  is  a  hand-' 
some  little  bay,  making  up  into  the  Indian  country,  and 
derived  its  name  Innn  the  barter  form(!rly  carried  on 
hero  between  the  white  men  und  tho  Mohegans.  Uncas,' 
the  Sachem  of  Mohr>gan,  was  believed  to  be  of  I'eqiiod 
descent,  but  in  a  state  of  successful  revolt  at  the  lime  the 
English  became  acquainted  with  him.  His  chief  resi^ 
dcnce  was  new  th>*  cove,  now  iho  centfe  of  the  Indian 


;fi;  . 


170 


HORWICH. 


Reservation  ;  but  the  burying  ground  of.  the  royal  family 
■was  near  Norwich  Landing,  (which  is  in  sight  from  thi* 
place.)  He  had  conquered  the  country  as  far  north  a» 
about  the  present  Massachusetts  line,  but  became  an  early 
friend  of  the  whites,  and  rendered  them  important  ser- 
vices, particularly  in  war,  as  well  as  his  successors,  the 
later  Mohegan  chiefs. 

Before  this  part  of  the  state  was  settled,  Unc'a.s  was 
once  so  closely  besieged  by  his  enemies  the  Pequods, 
that  he  suffered  extremely  from  a  scarcity  of  provisions, 
and  was  relieved  only  by  the  care  of  a  man  named  Lef* 
fingwell,  who  was  despatched  from  Connecticut  with  a 
boat  loaded  with  provisions.  In  gratitude,  Uncas  gave 
Jliim  a  large  part  of  the  present  town  of  Norwich  for  this 
important  service.  There  is  a  rock  still  pointed  out  on 
the  shore,  and  called  Uncas'  Chair,  where  the  Sachem  is 
said  to  have  sat  and  watched  the  arrival  of  his  friends. 

On  the  south  side,  Trading  Cove  is  bounded  by  Cooper  3 
Hill ;  beyond  is  Fort  Hill,  which  derived  its  name  from  a 
little  place  of  strength  erected  in  old  times  by  the  Indians, 
as  a  protection  against  other  nations  small  like  themselves* 
The  poor  remains  of  this  tribe  reside  on  the  lands  secured 
to  them  by  the  state  government,  and  live  in  all  the  igno- 
rance, idleness,  and  thriftlessness  common  to  Indians  in 
this  part  of  the  country :  melancholy  testimonies  of  the 
degradation  to  which  the  most  active  human  minds  may 
sink  when  every  customary  impulse  to  exertion  has  been 
stifled,  and  no  new  incitement  extended. 

Worcester  and  Norwich  Railroad,  58 ^  miles.  Leaves 
Norwich  Landing,  passes  up  the  valley  of  Quinnebaug 
road,  near  Jewett's  city,  and  many  manufactories,  through 
WestfieJd,  Pomfret,  Oxford,  &c.  to  Worcester,  where  it 
meets  the  railroads  to  Boston  and  to  Springfield.  Opened 
in  1840  ;  cost  1  million ;  maximum  grade  20  feet. 

Norwich  has  three  villages,  of  which  Chelsea  Landing  is 
the  principal,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  singular  situation, 
as  well  as  for  its  appearance  of  business,  which  is  much 
favoured  by  the  numerous  manufactories  in  the  neighbour- 
ing country.  The  Plain  is  about  a  mile  north,  and  a  very 
pleasant  place. 

On  the  way  thither  is  seen  the  Cove,  at  the  upper  end 
of  which  arc  the  Falls  of  Yaiitio.  a  stream  which  pour» 


'V !  I' 


I   V 


ROUTE   FROM   NEW-YORK   TO   UOSTOK. 


171 


over  a  ledge  of  granite  about  40  feet  high,  and  supplies 
several  manufactories  with  water.  The  place  is  highly 
picturesque.  A  rock,  70  or  ^0  feet  in  height,  overhangs 
the  stream,  whence  a  number  of  Narraganseit  Indians 
once  precipitated  themselves  when  pursued  by  the  Mohe- 
gans. 

2^he  Burying  Ground  of  the  Uncases  is  on  the  elevated 
bank  north  of  the  Cove,  on  the  grounds  of  Judge  Goddard. 
There  are  stones  marking  the  graves  of  numerous  mem- 
bers of  the  royal  farriily  of  the  Mohegans,  and  a  few 
of  them  bear  English  inscriptions.  The  family  is  now 
extinct. 

Uncas,  the  old  friend  of  the  Pilgrims,  is  buried  here. 
He  and  his  nation  were  the  only  steady  allies  they  ever 
found  among  the  Indiana,  steady  and  powerful  enough 
to  render  them  very  essential  service.  He  was  a  man 
of  extraordinary  talent,  and  withal  extremely  politic  ;  but 
he  refused  to  join  the  Indians  against  the  English,  and 
died  a  friend  of  the  white  men. 

This  plain  was  the  principal  summer  residence  of  the 
Mohegans. 

The  manufacturing  village  is  under  the  bank  and  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Yantic.  The  position  is  well  selected,  and 
the  sum  expended  in  buildings  and  machinery  very  great. 

Sachem's  Field.  At  the  distance  of  1^  miles  from 
Norwich,  is  Sachem's  Field,  a  small  elevated  plain,  on 
■which  a  battle  was  fought  in  the  year  1643,  between  about 
900  Narragansetts,  (who  inhabited  Rhode  Island,)  and 
500  or  600  Mohegaus  The  Sachem  of  the  former, 
Miantonimo,  intending  to  chastise  Uncas  for  his  adherence 
to  the  English,  secretly  advanced  into  his  country  with 
an  army;  but  Uncas  was  aware  of  his  approach,  and  met 
him  on  this  plain,  where  both  parties  halted. 

Uncas  resorted  to  a  stratagem.  He  stepped  forward 
alone,  and  challenged  Miantonimo  to  decide  the  quarrel 
single-handed.  This,  as  he  expected,  was  rei'used ;  and 
while  his  enemies  were  not  prepared,  he  gave  a  signal  by 
falling  down,  when  his  men  instantly  set  up  a  yell,  dis- 
charged their  arrows,  and  rushed  forward.  The  Narra- 
gansetts fled,  and  many  of  them  were  killed.  Uncas  cap- 
tured Miantonimo  himself,  but  the  haughty  Indian  would 
jiot  ask  for  quarter  nor  speak  a  word.     He  was  taken  to 


'X 


172 


NEWPORT. 


Hartford,  and  after  a  trial,  was  delivered  to  Uncas  for 
execution.  He  was  brought  back  to  this  place,  and  while 
marching  across  the  field,  was  tomahawked  on  a  spot  a 
little  east  of  the  road,  where  a  heap  of  stones  for  many 
years  marked  the  place  of  his  burial. 

Nkwport,  Rhode  Island.  This  place  possesses  one  of 
the  best  harbours  in  the  United  Slates.  The  entrance  is 
guarded  by  Fort  Adams;  and  the  scenery  about  it  is 
agreeable. 

Fort  Adams  on  Brenton's  Point  embraces  an  extent 
of  130  acres.  A  range  of  guns  lines  the  shore  towards 
the  west,  and  the  casements,  &c.  are  very  strong, 

Newport  extends  about  a  mile  along  the  shore,  but  pre- 
sents the  aspect  of  decay,  as  the  commerce  has  been  re- 
moved to  Providence.  The  situation  has  many  advan- 
tages ;  and  this,  with  the  cheapness  of  rent  will  probably 
render  it  the  temporary  abode  of  many  strangers  during 
the  warm  season. 

Tho  houses  of  the  town  are  thickly  clustered  about  the 
margin,  but  make  rather  a  gloomy  appearance  on  account 
of  the  want  of  repair ;  the  place  having  experienced  a 
gradual  declension  caused  by  the  success  of  Providence, 
thirty  miles  further  up. 

The  beach  behind  the  town,  like  the  whole  circuit  of 
the  city  on  the  land  side,  was  defended  by  a  line  of  troops, 
batteries,  &c.  during  the  possession  of  it  by  the  Knglish 
in  the  revolutionary  war;  and  the  opposite  high  grounds 
were  occupied  by  the  American  army,  whose  head  quar- 
ters were  on  Taumony  Hill,  a  mile  and  a  half,  or  there- 
abouts, from  the  town :  an  elevation  which  affords  an 
extensive  view  on  every  side.  Gen.  Prescott  was  taken 
h*^re  during  the  war,  by  a  bold  party  of  men  under  Col. 
Barton,  who  landed  secretly  from  a  boat  in  the  night, 
went  to  the  British  head  quarters,  and  conveyed  their 
captive  away  before  the  land  or  naval  forces,  then  in  the 
harbour,  could  prevent  them.  The  place  was  blockaded 
by  the  British  fleet. 

During  the  possession  of  tho  place  by  the  enemy,  the 
trees  were  cut  down  for  fuel ;  and  although  the  soil  is 
admirably  calculated  for  the  growth  of  fruit  trees,  and 
was,  before  that  period,  quite  covered  with  the  finest  or- 
chards, it  is  now  so  divested  of  trees  of  every  descrip* 


I 


Route  prom  new-vork  to  uostow. 


173 


Uncas  for 
,  and  while 
>n  a  spot  a 
1  for  many 

sses  one  of 
entrance  is 
about  it  is 

an  extent 
re  towards 

•e,  but  pre- 
as  been  re- 
my  advan- 
il  probably 
era  during 

about  the 
3n  account 
E>rienced  a 
'rovidence, 

circuit  of 
>  of  troops, 
le  English 
[h  grounds 
lead  quar- 

or  there- 
ifFords  an 
was  taken 
inder  Col. 
the  night, 
^yed  their 
hen  in  the 
blockaded 

nemy,  the 
,he  soil  is 
rees,  and 
finest  or- 
j  descripr* 


t-ion,  as  to  appear  remarkably  naked  and  monotonous  for 
an  Amencan  scene.  The  fenility  of  the  ground,  and  the 
excellence  ofthe  crops,  however,  as  well  as  the  neatness 
and  preciston  with  which  the  fields  are  cultivated,  and 
regularly  divided  by  fine  stone  walls,  present  a  picture  of 
agricutural  beauty  rarely  paralleled  in  the  United  States. 
Ihe  island,  fourteen  miles  Ions:,  and  not  three  wide,  con- 
tamed  in  1827  more  than  30,000  sheep. 

Mount  Hope,  famous  as  the  ancient  royal  residence 
of  the  Narragansett  Indians,  and  particularly  as  the  abode 
ot  King  Philip,  and  the  scene  of  his  death,  is  seer  from 
a  few  miles  beyond  Newport,  towards  the  northwest.  It 
rises  m  Warren,  on  the  shore  of  an  arm  of  the  bay  The 
view  ofu  IS  soon  afterwards  cut  off  by  the  intervention  of 
Prudence  Island,  which  is  about  five  miles  in  length,  and 

LTw  '  J  Rvf  T\^?"'i^  'ii''"^  ^""^ly  «^^"'"ff  surface 
as  that  of  Rhode  Island.     The  inhabitants  are  few,  as  are 

those  of  Patience  and  Hope,  islands  of  a  much  smaller 
size.  Despair  is  a  cluster  of  rocks  on  the  left,  near  the 
island  of  Hope,  the  north  end  of  which  is  twenty  miles 
from  Providence.  "^ 

Rhode  Island  Coal  Mine.  An  extensive  mine  of  An. 
thracite,  or  incombustible  coal,  was  opened  a  few  years 
since  near  the  end  of  the  island,  in  Portsmouth,  about 
two  miles  from  Bristol  Ferry.  It  was  not  extensively 
used,  however,  and  the  work  was  speedily  abandoned 

Providknci:  is  the  second  city  in  New-England,  both 
m  population,  wealth  and  beauty.  It  is  beautifully  as 
well  as  advantageously  situated  at  the  head  of  navigation, 
on  the  river  of  the  same  name. 

T  J^^A?u'^r.  ^^^  P'-ovidence  Railroad,  41  m.  begins  at 
India  Wharf  m  Providence,  near  the  steamboat  landing; 
and  passing  through  the  town,  leads  through  Foxboro'. 
Walpole,  Dedham,  Roxbury  and  other  towns.  Opened 
m  18.i5,  cost  nearly  two  millions,  curvatures  gentle,  least 
radius,  5730  feet;  highest  grade,  37,^  feet;  summit  in 
Sharon,  256  feet  above  tide.  There  is  a  viaduct  of  ffra- 
nite  m  Canton,  700  feet  long,  and  above  sixty  feet  high, 
over  Neponset  Valley.  There  are  many  embankments 
and  excavations  in  rock. 

Taunton  Branch  railroad  from  Mansfield  leads  southeast 
to  launton.  11  m.  anA  N<.i„.n<^jr>.j  nj  _   


<'i   I 


1    5 .' 


^^ 


I! 


I  1 
I 

1 

iiii 


U  1     h 


I  <i 


174 


OEDHAM. 


The  Milbury  Branch  leaves  the  Boston  and  Providende 
railroad  at  Grafton  for  Milbury,  3  m. 

BuoWN  Univkrsity,  the  greatest  institution  of  learn* 
ing  in  the  state,  is  built  on  the  summit  of  a  high  hill,  the 
ascent  to  which  is  not  very  easy,  although  it  is  laid  out  in 
streets  decorated  with  some  of  the  finest  houses  in  this 
part  of  the  country ;  dispersed  among  spacious  gardens, 
and  mingling  the  delights  of  the  country  with  the  splen-* 
dour  of  a  city.     Dr.  Wayland  is  the  president. 

The  town  was  settled  by  Roger  Williams,  who  left  the 
old  colonies  in  consequence  of  a  disagreement  in  religious 
doctrines.  He  built  his  house  on  the  shoie,  near  the  pre- 
sent Episcopal  church.  Many  of  the  society  of  Quakers 
or  Friends  afterwards  joined  him,  whose  descendants 
form  a  large  share  of  the  population  of  the  state. 

The  Academy  is  a  large  institution,  near  the  College, 
established  by  the  Friends  or  Quakers. 

[Taunton,  32  miles  from  Boston,  next  above  Digh* 
ton.  A  great  quantity  of  dotton  is  manufactured  here, 
and  there  are  extensive  works  in  iron. 

Blackstone  Canal.  This  canal,  which  reaches  to 
Worcester,  Massachusetts,  runs  along  the  course  of  the 
Blackstone  River  for  several  miles.  It  is  45  miles  long* 
18  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  34  feet  at  the  surface. 
There  are  48  locks,  all  built  of  stone,  which  overcome  a 
lise  and  fall  of  450  feet.  The  size  of  the  locks  is  83 
feet  in  length,  and  10  in  breadth ;  and  the  cost  of  the 
whole  work  was  about  $500,000.  The  water  is  chiefly 
derived  from  the  Blackstone  river;  but  there  are  large 
ponds  at  different  parts  of  the  route  which  can  be  drawn 
upon  at  any  time.  The  whole  work  was  completed 
about  1828. 

Pawtockbt  is  one  of  the  largest  manufacturing  places 
in  this  part  of  the  country.  The  banks  of  the  river  are 
varied  and  somewhat  romantic ;  wnile  the  fall,  which  is 
under  the  bridge,  furnishes  a  most  valuable  Water  power. 
Cotton  is  principally  manufactured  here,  though  there  is 
machinery  devoted  to  other  purposes. 

Dedham,  10  miles  from  Boston,  is  a  large  and  beautiful 
village,  with  regular  and  well  built  streets,  and  some  quite 
elegant  houses. 


Boston. 


17& 


rovidende 

of  learn* 
h  hill,  the 
aid  out  in 
ea  in  this 

gardens, 
the  aplen-* 

lo  left  the 
1  religious 
r  the  pre* 
f  Quakers 
iscendants 

B  College, 

3\e  Digh* 
ired  here, 


caches  to 
rse  of  the 
liles  long< 
le  surface, 
trercome  a 
cks  is  83 
ost  of  the 
r  is  chiefly 
are  large 
be  drawn 
:oHjpleted 

ing  places 
3  river  are 
,  which  is 
er  power, 
h  there  is 

1  beautiful 
lonie  quite 


fituB  Hills.  This  is  a  pleasant  retreat,  about?  miles 
from  the  city  of  Boston,  and  much  resorted  to  in  the 
summer  season.  On  the  northern  side,  the  view  em- 
braces, in  a  clear  day,  the  Green  Mountains  in  Vermont^ 
and  the  White  Mountains  in  New-Hampshire,  with  a 
wide  extent  of  country  between :  Nahant,  and  in  general, 
all  Boston  Bay,  are  seen  eastwardly,  and  near  at  hand. 

These  hills  are  seen  on  the  right  from  the  road,  a  few 
miles  south  of  Boston. 

Quincy  Railway.  This  is  the  first  work  of  the  kind 
which  was  constructed  in  the  United  States.  It  is  three 
miles  long,  and  leads  from  the  quarries  of  granite  to  na- 
vigable water,  for  the  tianspurtation  of  stone  to  Boston. 
The  quarries  will  be  found  worthy  of  a  visit. 

RoxBUBT.  On  the  Neck  which  leads  to  Boston,  are 
seen  the  remains  of  the  intrenchments  thrown  up  by 
General  Washington,  in  1776,  to  shut  the  British  troops 
up  in  the  town ;  and  a  little  beyond  them  is  the  place 
where  General  Gage  previously  drew  his  line  across,  to 
command  the  communication  between  it  and  the  coun- 
try. The  country  on  both  sides  retains  marks  of  the 
American  forts,  redoubts,  &c.  and  Dorchester  Heights  on 
the  east  are  crowned  with  the  works  thrown  up  by  Wash- 
ington, which  commanded  Boston  and  the  anchorage ; 
and  forced  the  enemy  to  evacuate  the  place.  Embarking 
here  in  their  fleet,  they  went  around  to  Long  Island,  and 
soon  after  entered  New-York. 

THE  CITY  OF  BOSTON, 

Hotels.  The  Treraont  House,  Exchange,  Marlbo- 
rough Hotel,  &c. 

From  Boston  railroads  run  in  several  directions:  to 
Portsmouth,  New-Hampshire,  55^  miles,  to  be  extended 
to  Portland,  Maine,  58  miles  further  ;  to  Lowell  26^  miles, 
and  Nashua,  New-Hampshire,  15  miles.  A  branch  to 
Andover,  7|  miles, from  Boston;  and  Exeter,  New-Hamp- 
shire, 46^  from  Boston.  To  Worcester,  44i  miles,  and 
through  Brookfield  to  Springfield,  ,54  miles  more,  while 
Norwich  railroad  goes  from  Worcester,  58  J  miles,  meet- 
ing New-York  iteamboatg.    To  Providence,  41  miles, 

16 


WW.. 


1715 


THE    ATHKNJEUM. 


meeting  New- York  steamboats,  and  also  the  Sloninwlon, 
Gonneclicut  railroad,  47  miles,  which  also  meeta  New- 
York  steamboats.  (For  particulars  of  these  roads  see 
farther  on.) 

Boston  contains  an  uncommon  proportion  of  fine  build- 
ings, ppr'r'ilarly  private  residences.  The  finest  build- 
ings a;  itish  granite,  brought  from  the  shores  of  the 
Meriima   -  .  ,.ver,  and  Quincy. 

The  Market  is  of  granite,  and  has  a  centre  buildinfr, 
74^  feet  by  55,  with  winag,  eitending  in  ail  636  feet, 
with  a  fine  facade  at  eacl,\  end,  with  granite  columns  of 
single  pieces,  21  feet  high,  and  weighing  each  14  or  15 
tons.  A  row  of  granite  buildings  on  each  side,  4  stories 
high,  for  stores,  is  more  than  500  feet. 

The  Common  is  a  fine  piece  of  ground,  of  about  50 
a<:re3,  on  the  southwestern  side  of  the  city,  and  one  of 
its  greatest  ornaments.  The  surface  is  agreeably  varied 
by  a  few  gentle  undulations,  and  it  is  decorated  with 
rows  of  handsame  dwelling  houses  on  two  sides,  while 
on  the  third,  it  is  bounded  by  the  bay  of  Charles  River, 
and  affords  an  extensive  view  in  that  direction,  embracing 
a  tract  of  cultivated  hilly  country.  Here  are  Crescent 
Pond  and  the  great  Elm. 

The  State  House  is  the  principal  object  seen  in  ap- 
proaching the  city,  and  stands  on  a  considerable  eminence 
at  the  north  side  of  the  common.  It  has  a  large  dome  on 
the  top,  affording  the  most  extensive  view  of  Boston  and 
the  surrounding  country  which  is  to  be  found. 

Chanlrey's  Statue  of  Washington.  In  this  beautiful 
specimen  of  the  skill  of  the  greatest  British  Sculptor, 
Boston  possesses  a  treasure.  It  was  finished  and  sent  to 
America  in  1827,  and  a  new  apartment  was  constructed 
for  its  reception,  adjoining  the  Doric  Hall  in  the  State 
House.  The  total  expense  of  the  statue  and  building 
anraunted  to  about  $16,000. 

Faneuil  Hall  is  an  old  building,  which  was  used  for 
public  meetings  before  the  revolution,  and  where  the  spirit 
of  liberty  was  early  excited  and  cherished. 

The  Athenceum,  at  the  south  end  of  Pearl-street,  is 
open  daily  to  strangers  introduced  by  members,  and  con- 
tains a  valuable  library  of  about  35,000  volfe<»  and  about 


lii 


BOSTOIC 


177 


toninoion, 
sets  New- 
roads   see 

fine  build- 
est  build- 
ores  of  the 

;  buildin^T, 
636  feet, 
olumns  of 
14  or  15 
',  4  stories 

about  50 
d  one  of 
bly  variod 
ated  with 
dcs,  while 
les  River, 
embracing 
5  Crescent 

een  in  ap- 

eniinence 

B  dome  on 

oston  and 

beautiful 
Sculptor, 
nd  sent  to 
)nstructed 
;he  State 
[  building 

I  used  for 
I  the  spirit 

-street,  is 
,  and  con- 
md  about 


14,000  coins  and  medals,  with  the  Gallery  of  Fine  Arts  in 
the  rear,  with  a  collection  of  statues,  paintings,  &c.  Medi- 
cal College  in  Mason-street;  Massachusetts  Historical 
Society's  Library  in  Franklin-street;  New-England  Mu- 
seum in  Court-street;  Eye  and  Ear  Infirmaiy ;  Massachu- 
setts General  Hospital. 

At  Charlestown  are  the  State  Prison,  conducted  on  the 
improved  plan,  and  the  U.  S.  Navy  Yard,  with  ship  houses, 
dry  dock,  &c.     Also,  the  Insane  Hospital. 

The  hills  at  Dorchester,  Roxbury,  Brighton,  Cambridge, 
Charlestown,  &c.  together  with  the  numerous  islands 
which  protect  the  harbour,  form  an  amphitheatre,  very 
regular  and  beautiful,  when  seen  from  the  top  of  the  Slate 
House;  and  the  villages  which  are  seen  in  every  direc- 
tion, almost  entirely  line  the  shore.  The  mingling  of  land 
and  water  in  this  scene  is  very  fine ;  and  it  is  easy,  at  a 
glance,  to  comprehend  the  plan  of  the  various  measures 
adopted  during  the  revolutionary  war,  for  the  defence  and 
capture  of  the  place. 

Gen.  Gage,  in  1775,  ran  a  breastwork  across  Roxbury 
neck,  which  is  very  narrow,  in  order  to  command  the  only 
land  communication  with  the  neighbouring  country,  and 
then  continued  those  acts  of  oppression  upon  the  people, 
which  exasperated  the  colonies  so  much  against  him. 
Contributions  were  sent  in  for  their  relief  from  all  parts  of 
the  colonies. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  1775,  while  the  forces  which  had 
repaired  to  this  threatened  scene,  had  their  head  quarters 
at  Cambridge,  a  body  of  men,  principally  formed  of  de- 
tachments from  Massachusetts  and  New-Hampshire  regi- 
ments having  fortified  themselves  on  Breed's  Hill,  (an  in- 
ferior eminence  behind  Chai'lestown,)  manfully  disputed 
the  ground  with  the  British  troops,  sent  over  from  Boston 
to  occupy  it.  The  loss  was  great  on  both  sides,  particu- 
larly on  that  of  the  assailants,  who  wtire  driven  back  in 
three  attacks.  The  boldness  of  these  raw  troops,  and  the 
success  with  which  they  so  long  withstood  the  charges  of 
the  regulars,  were  of  the  utmost  use,  by  encouraging  the 
country,  and  by  convincing  the  English  that  they  were 
lighting  a  powerful  foe.  The  battle  usually  goes  by  the 
name  of  Bunker's  Hill ;  but  should,  in  strict  propriety,  be 


in. 


k 


u 


u 


178 


DORCHESTEE  HEIGHTS. 


'!! 


called  after  Breed's  Hill,  as  the  latter  is  a  distinct  emi- 
nenco,  although,  perhaps,  a  spur  from  the  former. 

The  British  landed  near  a  point,  just  beyond  where 
the  navy  yard  is  now  seen ;  and  the  American  defences 
consisted  of  a  small  earth  redoubt  on  the  top  of  Breed's 
Hill,  (where  the  great  monument  is  now  seen,  half  finish- 
ed,) and  a  double  rail  fence,  stuffed  with  new  hay,  ex- 
tending from  it  to  the  water.  A  British  sloop  of  war 
lay,  during  the  action,  in  Mystic  River,  beyond  the  navy 
yard,  and  kept  up  a  cross  fire  upon  the  low  neck,  which 
connects  the  peninsula  of  Charlestown  with  the  main  land. 

On  the  17th  of  June,  1825,  the  fiftieth  anniversary  of 
this  battle,  the  corner  stone  of  the  monument  was  laid  in 
an  angle  of  the  old  redoubt  on  Breed's  Hill. 

The  base,  (a  mass  of  14,000  tons  weight,)  is  laid  13 
feet  deep,  and  has  six  courses  of  stone  to  the  surface— 
the  first  of  which  is  50  feet  on  6ach  side.  Above  this  a 
pyramidal  obelisk,  30  feet  square,  is  to  rise  tapering,  21-3 
feet  4  inches  on  the  ground,  and  to  be  15  at  the  top.  It 
will  bo  composed  of  80  courses  of  stone,  each  2  feet  8 
inches  thick.  A  winding  stone  staircase  in  the  inside 
will  lead  to  the  summit,  whence  the  view  will  be  fine  and 
highly  interesting.  The  whole  is  to  be  built  of  granite 
from  Q,uincy.  The  largest  block  in  it  is  said  to  be  of  the 
following  dimensions :  11  feet  long,  2  broad,  2  feet  8  inches 
high,  with  a  weight  of  10  tons. 

After  the  battle  of  Bunker's  hill,  the  Continental  troops 
were  drawn  in  a  more  complete  line  around  the  town  of 
Boston ;  and  numerous  intrenchments  may  still  be  traced 
out  on  most  of  the  hills  in  the  vicinity ;  but  it  was  not  till 
Gen.  Washington  had  succeeded  in  occupying  Dorchester 
Heights,  which  command  the  harbour  and  town  from  the 
southeast,  that  the  British  forces  embarked  in  their  ships, 
and  evacuated  the  place. 

Dorchester  Heights  were  occupied  on  the  night  of 
March  4,  1776.  Eight  hundred  men  formed  the  van; 
then  followed  carriages,  and  1200  pioneers  under  General 
Thomas,  300  carts  of  fascines  and  gabions,  and  guns  in 
the  rear.  Two  forts  were  formed  by  10  at  night,  one  to- 
wards the  city,  and  the  other  towards  Castle  Island.  Pre- 
parations were  made  for  an  attack  by  the  British,  and 


i 


tinct  emi- 
r. 

nd  where 
I  defences 
f  Breed's 
alf  finish- 
1  hay,  ex- 
)p  of  war 
the  navy 
ck,  which 
nain  land, 
veraary  of 
/as  laid  in 

is  laid  13 
surface— 
•ove  this  a 
Bring,  21-3 
e  top.  It 
.  2  feet  8 
he  inside 
e  fine  and 
of  granite 
I  be  of  the 
Bt  8  inches 

ital  troops 
le  town  of 
be  traced 
^as  not  till 
)orchester 
I  from  the 
heir  ships, 


night 
the 


of 
van; 
jr  General 
id  guns  in 
It,  one  to- 
md.  Pre- 
:irish,  and 


WAHAMT/ 


\n 


for  dofnncc  by  tli(3  Americans ;  but  the  weather  prevented 
the  ik'si^^ns  of  the  former,  who  consisted  of  10,000,  and 
thoy  pmharkofl  for  New-York.  The  town  was  pillaged, 
and  1500  loyalists  removed.  It  was  evacuated  on  March 
17th:  ammimition,  &.c.  being  left  by  the  British. 

BiiiDfiKS.  Some  of  tl»e  most  striking  objects  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Boston,  are  the  bridges  which  lead  from 
it  to  various  points.  There  are  no  less  than  seven  princi- 
pal one!»,  beside  several  branches.  The  expense  at  which 
they  have  been  constructed  and  are  kept  in  repair  is  very 
grout,  and  they  furnish  great  facilities  for  strangers  desirous 
of  milking  excursions  to  the  surrounding  country.  The 
milldum  bridge  is  two  miles  long. 

Public  Schools.  There  are  seven  grammar  schools,  i» 
which  were  about  500  pupils.  There  were  200  boys  in 
the  Latin,  and  140  in  the  High  school.  The  primary 
schools  contained  almost  3000  children  between  4  and  7 
years  of  age,  taught  by  females,  &c.  &.c.  The  public  ex- 
pense incurred  in  instructing  nearly  75,000  children,  i» 
$54,000  annually. 

A  monument  has  been  laid  over  the  graves  of  Dr. 
Franklin's  parents,  in  the  Granary  burying  ground.  It  is 
an  obelisk  25  feet  high,  formed  of  seven  blocks  of  Quincy 
granite,  each  weighing  about  six  tons. 

ViLLAGKS,  The  vicinity  of  Boston  presents  a  succes- 
sion of  villages,  ]>robably  not  »o  be  paralleled  for  beauty 
in  the  United  States.  They  are  generally  the  residence  of 
a  number  of  the  most  opulent  citizens  during  tlie  pleasant 
seasons,  and  many  of  the  buildings  are  fine  and  expensive* 
The  grounds  are  also  frequently  laid  out  with  great  taste, 
and  highly  cultivate<l ;  so  that  no  stranger,  who  has  leisure^ 
should  fail  to  take  a  circuit  throvigh  them,  for  a  few  miles.- 
There  are  several  manufacturing  establishmenia  in  this- 
vicinity,  among  which  Wallham  is  conspicuous.  Har- 
vard Univenity  and  Mount  Auburn  Cemetery,  near  Charles- 
town,  should  be  visited.     Also,  Fresh  Pond. 

Nahant,  14  miles.  This  is  a  very  pleasant  and  fa- 
vourite resort,  during  the  warm  months  :  being  a  fine  sitU'' 
ution,  open  to  the  sea,  of  easy  access  by  land  and  water, 
and  furnished  with  several  houses  for  the  accommodatioi* 
of  visiters,  paiticulurly  a  large  hotel.  A  steamboat  run* 
thither  in  the  sunim-':r,  and  there  is  a  fine  road  which  passe* 

16* 


h 


I . 


*i|IW'i 


1 


)M 


fLVMOUTtt. 


round  the  hay,  through  the  shoe-making  town  of  Lyilll) 
along  Lynn  hoach,  and  then  turns  oft'  to  the  promontory  of 
Nahant,  whi('h  is  a  point  of  rough  rocks  of  considerable 
elevation.  You  may  cross  Charlestown  bridge,  and  visit 
Bunker's  Hill  at  setting  out. 

The  passage  in  the  steamboat  affords  a  fine  view  of 
Boston  bay,  with  the  city;  Dorchester  Heights  on  the 
south,  Bunker  and  Breed's  Hills  on  the  northwest,  and 
many  other  interesting  objects.  Among  the  islands  which 
form  the  defence  of  the  harbour,  is  that  which  contains 
Castle  Williams,  and  one  or  two  other  fortified  ones* 
Rainsford  Island  has  the  Marine  Hospital,  part  of  it  quite 
elevated,  but  containing  only  a  few  acres,  and  another  on 
Which  is  tho  Fafm  School,  an  interesting  institution  fof 
boys.  Salt  is  made  in  Boston  Bay,  and  windmills  are 
sometimes  used  to  pump  the  water. 

The  ground  near  the  hotel  at  Nahant  has  been  laid  out 
and  ornamented  with  taste.  The  cupola  on  the  top  com* 
mands  a  fine  water  scene ;  and  during  a  strong  wind 
from  the  sea,  the  waves  are  high  and  magnificent,  breaking 
wildly  against  the   rocks. 

Tho  Baihi  are  at  a  little  distance  from  the  hotel,  and 
tjuite  commodious,  furnishing  one  of  the  chief  attractions 
of  the  place. 

The  Syren^s  Grotto  is  a  remarkable  cavity  in  thd 
Irocks,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  hotel.  It 
has  been  curiouisly  worn  out  by  the  waves  5  and  there  are 
several  other  caverns  of  a  similar  character,  produced  in 
tho  course  of  ages,  by  the  constant  attrition  of  the  water. 
The  Spouting  Horn  is  a  hole  in  the  rocks,  on  the  oppo» 
site  side,  where  the  water  is  thrown  up  in  the  air  at  par» 
ticular  times  of  tide.  The  rocks  are  of  granite,  porphyry, 
epidote,  &c.  and  furnish  pebbles  of  jasper,  &c.  Pulpit 
Rock,  on  the  south,  is  a  singular  object ;  its  top  is  almost 
inaccessible.  The  rude  shores  and  the  smooth  beach  can 
be  best  examined  at  low  tide ;  but  those  who  are  fond  of 
sublime  scenes,  should  omit  no  opportunity  to  visit  them 
when  the  wind  is  high,  particularly  in  a  moonlight  night. 

Plymouth,  36  miles  S.  S.  E.  from  Boston.— This  place 
is  highly  interesting  on  account  of  its  history,  being  the 
site  of  the  first  settlement  made  by  the  New-England  Pil* 
grims  in  1G20)  on  the  22d  of  December.  Amass  of  granite 


TOUR  or   NEW-ENGLAND. 


IBl 


fock  ig  Btill  shown  on  which  those  steppe*!  who  first 
landed.  It  has  been  divided,  and  a  part  of  it  remaina 
buried  near  the  shore  in  its  natural  location,  while  the 
Upper  part  is  removed  into  the  centre  of  the  village. 

A  Imndsomo  building  was  erected  hiiro  in  1820,  in 
which  the  New'-England  Society  hold  their  annual  cele- 
brations of  that  interesting  era  in  the  history  of  the  coun- 
try. Burying  Hill,  which  rises  near  at  hand,  is  the  spot 
where  a  small  fort  was  erected  by  the  settlers,  and  where 
the  graves  ol"  several  of  them  are  still  to  be  fownd.  The 
banks  of  thj  brook  south  of  the  hill  were  the  scene  of  the 
first  confeifnce  with  Massasoit,  a  friendly  and  faithful 
Indian  chief,  from  whom  the  name  of  the  IJay,  and  subso- 
tiuently  that  of  the  state  was  derived.  Manumet  point  is 
B  promontory  on  the  south  side  of  the  harbour;  and  a 
small  island  on  the  opposite  side  of  it  was  the  spot  where 
the  pilgrims  lirst  placed  their  feet  on  shore  in  this  vicinity, 
after  having  previously  landed  on  Cape  Cod. 

The  young  and  feeble  colony  suffered  extreme  distressss 
iiere,  from  the  severity  of  the  climate,  (againnt  which  they 
were  unprepared,  as  they  had  sailed  for  a  more  southern 
region,)  and  the  want  of  provisions.  Nothing  but  the 
assistance  of  Massasoit,  under  the  providence  of  God,  pre- 
served them  from  extinction. 

Routes  from  5o«ion.— Railroad  cars  and  coaches  go 
in  so  many  directions,  that  a  choice  may  be  made  be- 
tween a  great  many,  all  of  them  pleasant,  in  setting  out 
for  a  tour  to  tha  westward,  or  towards  the  city  of  New- 
¥ork.  ^        „.„ 

In  the  first  place,  the  noble  scene .  y  of  the  White  Him 
«iay  be  taken  in  the  way  to  Lake  Champlain,  Canada, 
•the  Springs,  or  Niagara;  or  in  making  the  more  circum- 
scribed route  of  Connecticut  River.  Next,  those  who 
•choose  a  more  direct  way,  may  avail  themselves  of  the 
road  through  Concord,  Plymouth, and  Haverhill;  or  Con- 
cord and  Hanover;  or  Concord,  Keene,  and  Windsor;  or 
its  branches  to  CharlestJwn  or  Walpole. 

Besides  these,  ore  tha  roads  to  Albany  or  the  Springs, 
through  the  followmg  different  places'.  Braaleborough, 
Bloody  Brook,  Greenfield,  Northamiton,  (and  New- 
Lebanon;)  Springfield  and  Hartford. 

Those  who  desire  -to  travel  ra.pidly  will  take  the  Wor- 


,'l  1 

1 

ii 

^K  1 

t<^^9 

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if 


ROUTKfl   'ROM   B0ST01f« 


cester  Railroad.  To  strangers,  it  will  be  propftr  to  f orrtark 
once  more,  that  the  route  of  Connsciicut  Riv€>r  presents  at 
once  a  scene  of  fertility,  populutior  good  habits,  and  in- 
telligence, on  the  whole,  superior  to  any  other  tract  of 
country,  of  equal  extent,  in  the  United  States  ;  with  cor- 
respondent accommodations*  for  travellers.  The  scenery 
is  rich  and  varying,  and  cannot  fail  to  please,  wherever  it 
is  seen ;  but  those  who  can  first  pass  through  the  Notch 
in  the  White  Mountains,  will  find  its  beauties  greatly 
enhanced  by  the  contrast. 

East  of  Boston,  the  country  is  of  a  diifei^nt,  and  too 
often  of  aa  opposite  character,  presenting  few  objects  of 
importance,  except  the  sea  porta  through  which  tlie  road 
passes. 

There  is  a  line  of  steamboats  to  Maine  and  New- 
Brunswick. 

The  road  to  Portland,  and  through  the  most  populous 
part  of  the  state  of  Maine,  will  be  given  towards  the  end 
of  the  volume. 

The  Boston  and  Lowell  Railroad,  northwest,  26 J  m. 
Crosses  Charle&town  road  on  a  viaduct,  and  passes  in  view 
of  the  ruins  of  the  Charlestown  Nunnery  on  Mount  Bene- 
dict, which  was  burned  by  a  mob  8  or  9  years  ago,  on  a 
charge  of  the  ill  treatment  of  some  of  the  nuns.  At  Wil- 
mington a  braiKih  leads  off'  to  Andover,  7|  m.  Haverhill 
10,  and  Exeter,  N.  H.  20  m. 

Near  Lowell  is  a  long  and  deep  cut,  |  m.  long,  47 
feet  deep,  and  80  feet  wide,  through  a  mass  of  gneiss  rock, 
where  granite  and  other  rociks  are  singularly  intermingled. 
Summit,  125  feet;  maximum  grade,  10  feet  per  mile; 
least  radius,  3000  feet.  More  than  half  is  straight.  Opened 
June,  1835 

This  road  is  extended  to  Nashua,  N.  H,  15  m.  Opened 
1838.     It  is  to  reach  to  Concord. 

The  Boston  and  Worcester  Railroad,  \\\  miles. 
Extends  from  the  shore  of  Boston  harbour,  under  Wash- 
ington-stret't,  ao  oss  the  city  by  a  viaduct,  over  Charles 
river,  on  an  emhankment  680  feet  long,  and  through  a 
cut  through  gninite  500  feet  long  and  30  feet  deep,  along 
Charles  river,  through  Brighton  to  Needham,  and  through 
Natick,  Framingham,  Westborough,  and  Grafton,  to  Wor- 
cester, 5  miles  ca:<t  of  which  is  the  summit,  550  fuct  abovft' 


TOUR  or   NEW-ENOT,ANT). 


Ifi3 


tide.  Thoro  is  a  cut  through  slato  37  loot  deep.  Loss 
thiin  J  m.  on  tliis  route  is  level:  maximum  grade,  30 
feet ;  least  radius,  !)54  lect.  The  continuation  of  this 
road  is 

TAe  Great  Western  Railroad,  open  from  Wor- 
cester to  Springlii'ld,  54  m.  tlirough  Charlton,  South 
Brooktield,  Talnior,  and  Wilhrahnm  ;  and  is  to  bo  finished 
in  a  year  to  West  Slockbridge,  on  the  New-York  fine,  02 
m.  further.  Engines  can  travel  here  weighing  14  tons, 
and  able  to  draw  a  train  with  1000  barrels  of  floury  10 
miles  an  hour.  When  the  lino  is  complete  to  Albany, 
flour  will  probably  go  thence  to  Boston  for  35  cents  a 
barrel. 

The  Boston  and  Portsmouth,  or  Eastern  Railroad  ex- 
tends from  East  Boston  through  Lynn,  Salem,  (there  is 
a  tunnel  under  part  of  the  town,)  Ipswich  and  Newbury- 
port,  (40  m.) ;  to  Portsmouth,  N.  H.  15|  m.  It  i«  probably 
to  bo  continued  to  Portland,  Me.  through  Wells,  Kenne- 
bunk  Port,  andSaco;  and  thence  to  Bangor,  132  miles 
further. 

From  Boston  to  Burlington,  Vt.  on  Lake  Champlain, 
by  the  White  Hills,  274  m.  Railroad  to  Lowell,  25  m. 
and  Nashua,  N.  H.  15;  Merrimack,  G;  Piscataqua,  10; 
Amoskeag,  2 ;  Hookset,  7  ;  Concord,  8 ;  Winnipiseogee 
Outlet,  17;  Guildford,  11;  Centre  Harbour,  (northwest 
corner  of  the  lake,)  13;  Conway,  35;  Bartlett,  10;  the 
Old  Crawford  Farm,  7  ;  Notch  House,  6  ;  Notch,  and 
Notch  Meadov/  Tavern,  2 ;  Ethan  A.  Crawford's,  4 ;  Lit- 
tleton, 18;  Montpelier,  40  ;  Burlington,  38. 

From  Boston  to  Burlington,  short  route,  206  m.  To 
Concord  as  above,  then  to  Hanover,  55  m ;  Randolph, 
25 ;  Brookfield,  12 ;  Williamstown,  8  ;  Montpelier,  10 ; 
Moretown,  7  ;  Waterbury,  4 ;  Bolton,  8  ;  Richmond,  2 ; 
Willston,  9  ;  Burlington,  8. 

From  Boston  to  Burlington  through  Windsor,  Vt.  by 
the  Gulf  Road,  206  m;  to  Woburn,  10  m;  Billerica,  9; 
Chelmsford,  4 ;  Tyngsborough,  7  ;  Dunstable,  6  ;  Merri- 
mack, 7 ;  Amherst,  3 ;  Mount  Vernon,  6 ;  Francistown, 
9;  Hillsboro',  9 ;  Washington,  9  ;  Sumpter,  7  ;  Claremont, 
(on  Connecticut  river,)  12;  Windsor,  Vt.  9;  Woodstock, 
14 ;  (the  rest  as  above.) 


'4 


184 


BUOOKFIEID. 


To   Albany,   through    Worcester,    Northampton   and 
Lebanon  Springs, 

Watkrtowr,  like  almoat  all  the  villages  in  the  vici- 
nity of  Boston,  presents  many  neat  country  seats  and  an 
aspect  of  rural  beauty  and  fertility. 

Fkamingham,  20  miles  from  Boston. 

Worcester,  20  m.  Leicester,  6  m.  Spencer,  6  m. 

Brookfield.  This  was  one  of  the  towns  earliest  set- 
tled in  this  part  of  the  country,  dating  as  far  back  as 
Nov.  10,  1665  ;  and  for  several  years  the  only  towns  on 
the  west  were  Hadley,  Northampton,  &c.  while  there 
was  no  white  settlement  between  it  and  Canada.  The 
stagecoach  passes  over  a  long  hill  in  West  Brookiield, 
which  commands  an  extensive  prospect;  and  this  was 
the  place  where  the  settlement  began.  A  few  yards 
west  of  a  white  house  on  the  north  side  of  the  road,  was 
a  house  built  for  defence,  and  though  of  little  strength, 
was  called  the  Fort.  In  August,  1675,  this  place  was 
suddenly  beset  by  several  hundred  savages.  The  in- 
habitants had  been  imposed  upon  by  the  appearance  of 
iriendlJness  shown  by  the  Hassenemesit  Indians,  and  on 
their  way  to  their  fort,  a  few  miles  distant,  were  ambush- 
ed, and  pursued,  so  that  they  barely  escaped.  The  house 
in  which  they  all  assembled,  was  besieged,  and  was  seve- 
ral times  in  imminent  danger.  On  one  occasion  a  cart, 
loaded  with  hemp,  &c.  and  set  on  fire,  was  pushed  up  to 
the  house  with  long  poles,  when  a  sudden  shower  came 
up,  in  time  to  extinguish  the  flames.  The  fortunate  arri- 
val of  Capt.  Mosely,  with  a  small  troop  of  horsemen,  de- 
livered the  inhabitants,  and  drove  away  the  savages.  All 
the  houses  having  been  burnt,  and  the  war  soon  begin- 
ning to  rage  with  violence,  the  settlement  was  evacuated. 

The  old  well  still  remains  which  belonged  to  the  fort, 
or  block  house  ;  and  there  is  a  rock  in  a  wall,  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  road,  from  behind  which  an  Indian  shot 
one  of  the  men,  who  came  out  to  draw  water  during  the 
siege. 

The  present  village  is  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill,  and  is 
pleasantly  situated,  with  several  ponds  in  the  neighbcuir- 
iK>od,  which;  with  tlie  fi.sh  and  fowl  they  furnislied,  were 


ton   and, 


1  the  vici- 
3  and  an 


!ER,  6  m. 

rliest  set- 
■  back  as 
towns  on 
lile  there 
da.  The 
irookiield, 
this  was 
lew  yards 
road,  was 
!  strength, 
place  was 
The  in- 
sarance  of 
s,  and  on 
;  ambush- 
rhe  house 
was  seve- 
)n  a  cart, 
bed  up  to 
wer  came 
mate  arri- 
emen,  de- 
iges.  All 
)on  begin- 
svacuated. 
I  the  fort, 
the  oppo- 
idian  shot 
luring  the 

lill,  and  is 
leighbnur- 
lied,  were 


TOUR   OF   NEW-ENGLAND. 


185 


the  principal  attraction  of  the  savages,  who  wer6  very 
numerous  in  this  tract  of  country.     These  ponds  give  rise 
to  the  Quabaug  River,    which,  after  a  course  of  some 
miles,  ttikes  the  name  of  Chicopee,  and  joins  the  Connecti 
cut  at  Springfield. 

Ware  Factory  Village  is  situated  in  a  little  valley. 
The  rocks  and  woods  give  an  air  of  wiJdness  to  the  water* 
fall. 

Belchertov^^n,  nine  miles. 

Amhekist,  seven  miles.  The  shortest  road  to  North- 
ampton does  not  pass  the  College.     (See  Index.) 

Hadley,  five  miles. 

ROUTE  FROM  BOSTON  TO  THE  WHITE 
MOUNTAINS. 

The  first  day's  journey  may  be  to  Concord  or  Dover, 
both  in  New-Hampshire ;  or  you  may  take  the  railroad  ttf 
Lowell. 

There  are  three  roads  to  Concord,  on  all  which  there 
are  stagecoaches.  (All  necessary  information  concern- 
ing them,  can  be  readily  obtained  at  the  hotels.) 

The  first  is  through  Cambridge,  (where  is  Harvard 
University,)  and  Lexington. 

The  second  is  through  Charlestown,  and  joins  the  other 
on  the  Merrimack. 

The  third  is  through  Andover  and  Haverhill,  Mass* 

The  distance  is  from  68  to  70  miles. 

Several  places  on  these  roads  will  be  particularized. 

Lexinqton  is  remarkable  as  the  place  where  the  first 
blood  was  shed  in  the  revolutionary  war.  On  the  19th  of 
April,  1776,  Gren.  Gage  sent  a  body  of  troops  from  Bos- 
ton, to  seize  a  powder  house  at  Concord,  belonging  to 
the  colony ;  and  the  inhabitants  were  warned  of  his  de- 
sign, by  an  express  despatched  by  the  Hon.  Joseph  War- 
ren. The  militia  were  called  out,  but,  the  alarm  subsid- 
ing, they  were  dismissed,  with  orders,  however,  to  hold 
themselves  in  readiness.  The  enemy  unexpectedly  madef 
their  appearance  at  half  past  four,  coming  on  at  a  quick 
step,  within  a  mile  and  a  quarter  of  the  church.  The 
alarm  guns  were  fired,  drums  beat,  and  fifty  or  sixty  mili- 
tion^nn    ».oo«»»»iWn<l   nn    tVu»   nnrnrlp-      Tho  Rritish  hrl?aa8 


I'i 


1  ' 


•lii 


h 


'*.! 


* 


m 


186 


AlfDOVER. 


halted  about  120  yords  from  the  church  to  load",  and  therr 
passing  the  east  end  of  the  building,  discovered  the  Ame- 
ricans, who  were  ordered  at  the  moment,  by  their  com- 
mander, Capt.  Parker,  to  "  disperse,  and  take  care  of 
themselves,"  but  '•  not  to  fire."  As  some  of  them  loiter- 
ed, the  British  troops  rushed  towards  them,  huzzaing. 
Major  Pitcairn  fired  a  pistol  at  them,  when  about  thirty 
yards  distant  after  they  had  been  called  "  rebels,"  and 
ordered  them  to  lay  down  their  arms  and  disperse.  An- 
other officer,  who  was  within  a  few  yards  of  them,  then 
brandished  his  sword,  and  ordered  the  troops  to  "  fire," 
which  was  obeyed  at  the  second  order ;  and  the  fire  being 
returned,  it  was  kept  up  on  the  dispersing  men  until  they 
had  all  disappeared.  Eight  were  killed  and  ten  wounded. 
(Gen.  Gage  falsely  stated  that  the  British  were  first  fired 
tipon.) 

After  the  regtilars  had  fired  a  volley,  from  the  green 
behind  the  church,  and  given  three  cheers,  they  proceed-' 
ed  to  Concord.     On  their  return,  being  hard  pressed  by 
sharp  shooters,  they  burnt  three  honses,  a  shop,  and  a 
bam,  killed  three  more  men,  and  wounded  one. 
.     An  DOVER  is  a  small  village,  situated  on  high  ground, 
twenty  miles  from  Boston,  remarkable  for   the   Philips 
Academy  and    Theological    Seminary,  which   are   three 
fourths  of  a  mile  east  from  it,  on  the  summit  of  the  ascent. 
There  are  three  large  brick  buildings  belonging  to  the 
seminary,  which  make  a  conspicuous  figure  from  different 
parts  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  command  a  view  of 
great  extent  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Temple  Hills  in 
New-Hanipshire,  backed  by  the  Monadnoc,  about  sixty 
miles  off;  and  in  the  south  by  the  Blue  Hills.     A  little 
elevation  near  by  affords  a  view  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean, 
from  about  Newburyport  to  Cape  Ann,  with  part  of  Sa- 
lem ;  and  northwest  is  a  distant  peak,  which  is  supposed 
to  be  Ascutney,  in  Vermont. 

The  academical  buildings  are  distinguished  by  tho 
names  of  Philips  Hall,  Bartlett  Hall,  and  the  Chapel.  In 
the  upper  part  of  the  latter  is  a  library.  The  profes- 
houses  are  opposite,  with  a  spacious  green  interven- 


sors 


ing  between  the  seminary  and  the  street ;  and  there  is  also 
a  large  inn.     The  academy  and  seminary  are  not  con- 

no/>f0(l    nltViniio-Vi  thpv  nrr>  linrlnr  thrt'  BiiTii^rintfinflpnrG  of  tho 


liotJtB   TO  THE   WHITE   MoUNTAIMS. 


187 


and  then 
tho  Ame- 
heir  com- 
3  care  of 
am  loitcr- 
huzzaing. 
out  thirty 
els,"  and 
r»e.  An- 
[\em,  then 
to  "  fire," 
fire  being 
until  tlioy 
wounded, 
first  fired 

the  green 

proceed-' 

)re8sed  by 

op,  and  a 


h  ground, 
le  Philips 
are  three 
he  ascent, 
ing  to  the 
n  different 
a  view  of 
le  Hills  in 
bout  sixty 
A  little 
;ic  Ocean, 
(art  of  Sa- 
}  supposed 

;d  by  tho 
hapel.  In 
he  profea- 
n  interven- 
lere  is  also 
i3  not  con- 
^ncG  of  tho 


wme  board.  Tho  term  of  instruction  in  the  latter  em- 
braces three  years. 

Lowell,  twelve  miles  from  Boston,  by  a  railroad. 
This  is  one  of  tho  greatest  manufacturing  places  in  the 
United  States,  and  ofte  of  the  most  astonishing  rapidity 
of  growth.  No  longer  ago  than  1813,  tho  first  cotton  fac- 
tory was  erected  here,  which  cost  only  about  $3,000. 
Larger  ones  were  founded  in  181 8  ;  and  two  years  after 
tho  Merrimack  **  Manufacturing  Company"  made  a  pur- 
chase of  buildings  and  gfround.  The  falls  are  thirty  feet 
high.  TheVe  is  power  enough  for  fifty  factories  with 
111,500  spindles  each.  The  place  now  presents  tho  aspect 
of  H  lafge  and  busy  town. 

HaverhiLl  is  a  small  towrt,  but  pleasantly  situated, 
on  the  north  bank  of  the  Merrimack,  the  shores  of  which, 
for  some  distance  below,  present  a  beautiful  and  fertile 
slope  to  the  water.  A  bridge  crosses  the  river.  A  steam* 
bout  runs  to  Newburyport,  and  railroad  cars  to  Boston< 

Chelmsford  is  a  manufacturing  place. 

Crredt  Palls  Village  is  a  manufacturing  village,  fivie 
miles  above  Dover. 

Nashua  Village,  in  Dunstable,  thirty-three  miles 
from  Concord.  The  fall  in  the  Nashua  river  is  sixty- 
iive  fe6t,  and  the  power  equal  to  about  65,000  spindles. 

Dover.  This  is  one  of  the  principal  towns  in  the 
state,  and  contains  several  manufactories,  although  the 
supply  of  Water  is  by  no  means  abundant  at  all  seasons. 

About  five  miles  above  Dover,  at  Salmon  River  Falls, 
is  a  village,  containing  manufactories. 

Concord  is  the  capital  of  New-Hampshire,  and  a 
very  fine  and  flourishing  town.  It  is  much  the  largest 
the  traveller  will  see  before  reaching  the  White  Moun- 
tains, and  for  a  great  distance  beyond  them. 

The  town  is  situated  principally  on  one  street,  which 
is  of  a  great  length  and  very  convenient  breadth,  with 
many  respectable  houses ;  and  runs  parallel  with  the  Mer-* 
rimack,-  which  is  at  only  a  short  distance  on  the  east. 

The  Sr.'iTE  House  occupies  a  conspicuous  situation 
near  tho  middle  of  the  town,  a  little  removed  from  tho 
street,  and  surrounded  by  a  handsome  stone  wall,  enclos- 
ing an  area.  It  is  built  of  hewn  granite  from  the  quarry, 
and  is  a  neat  edifice^  100  feet  long,  with  a  large  hall  on 

i7 


18R 


CONCORTT. 


th(!  first  noor,  nml  on  llio  second  the  Sonato  nnd  I'loprc- 
Bontativoa'  ChuiulMTti,  with  tlui  coiiiniitteo  rooms,  staU; 
officos,  &c.  t.^1'.  Tho  view  from  thn  top  is  cxlciisivf,  hut 
enibracos  a  tract  of  country  too  littlo  culliviUi-d  to  bo 
rich,  und  too  unvaried  to  ho  pictin-esijue.  At  the  north- 
ward aro  seen  two  or  three  distinct  peaks,  which  may 
serve  as  an  earnest  of  the  uiagnifutent  scenery  to  be  pre- 
sented to  the  traveller  in  that  direction. 

The  Statk  Puison  In  built  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  States  Ilotisio,  and  bears  a  still  greater  appearance  of 
solidity  and  strength. 

There  is  an  academy  in  Concord,  with  several  churches. 
Several  nowspniiers  aro  printed  here,  and  gazettes  from 
distnnl  places  may  be  found  at  the  inns. 

The  Mkkkimacic  River  has  been  rendered  navigable, 
by  various  iujprovcments,  from  Concord  to  Chelrrisford, 
where  the  Middlesex  Canal  opens  a  communication  di- 
rectly to  Boston,  28  miles.  Small  manufacturing  villages 
succeed  each  other  along  the  banks  wherever  the  canala 
round  the  falls  and  rapids  afford  water-power. 

RoAPs.  Several  lines  of  siagecoache?  meet  m  this 
town,  from  Boston,  Portsmouth,  Plymouth,  Harerhill, 
Burlington,  by  the  way  of  Windsor  and  Conway,  on  the 
road  to  the  Notch  in  the  Mountains. 

From  Plymouth  a  coach  goes  through  Franconui  Notch 
to  Littleton.  The  ^oad  follows  the  Ptinigewasset,  through 
fme,  mrgnificent  scenery. 

There  is  a  road  oa  each  side  of  the  lake  towards  Con- 
way. The  eastern  meets  the  lake  steamboats  at^the  S. 
E.  corner.  The  traveller  should  spend  a  day  at  Centre- 
Harbour,  to  which  the  road  is  pleasant  and  the  country 
agreeable,  although  there  are  but  few  villages  on  the  way. 
Two  roads  from  Concord  lead  to  Meredith  Bridge  Vil- 
lage, 24  miles  distant :  one  by  Sandbornton  bridge,  15 
miles— the  other  by  the  Shaker  village,  12  miles. 

From  M.  B.  Village,  delightfully  situated  between  twa 
bays,  and  on  a  neautiful  river  that  never  freezes,  it  is 
nine  miles  to  the  shore  of  the  Lake  at  Meredith  Cove, 
and  13  to  Centre  Harbour. 

For  some  miles  before  reaching  that  place,  the  country 
betrins  to  assume  the  features  of  bold  and  mountam 


ROUTE    TO   THE    WIIITK    MOUNTAINS. 


189 


lul  I'lo  pro- 
ms, HtaU! 
iisivf,  but 
Xv{\  to  bo 
\nt  north" 
vhich  may 
to  be  prc- 

ince  from 
caruiice  of 

,  churches, 
ettcs  from 

navigable, 
helmsford, 
ijcation  di- 
ng villages 
the  canals 

3ot  in  this 

HarerhiU, 

^ay,  on  the 

onia  Notch 
et,  through 

vards  Con- 
la  at  the  S. 

at  Centre- 
16  country 
)n  the  way. 
Bridge  ViN 

bridge,  15 
les. 

etween  two 
eezes,  it  is 
;dith  Cove, 

;he  country 
i  mountain 


I 


flcencry.  Even  boforo  arriving  at  tho  lake,  the  prospect 
is  varied  with  many  of  those  noblo  clovaiions  which  riso 
to  such  a  height  of  grandeur  and  sublimity  as  tho  traveller 
proceeds;  and  the  frequent  glimpses  atfordod  between  the 
sloping  hilld,  over  tlio  beautiful  kko  below,  by  a  happy 
contrast,  increase  the  clfect. 

WiNNiPisicooKK  Lake.  The  number  and  divcr-sity  of 
the  islands  with  which  tho  lake  is  spangled,  will  be  ob- 
jects of  particular  admiralion.  They  arc  countless  for 
multitude,  and  in  size  j)re3ent  all  gradations  between  a 
single  rock  and  a  surficc  sufficient  for  several  extensive 
farms.     Gunstock  Mountain  lies  soutli  of  the  lake. 

Centre  Haubouu.  Here  the  traveller  will  be  amply 
rewarded,  if  tho  weather  be  fine,  by  stopping  at  lea.st  a 
day  to  make  an  excursion  to  the  top  of 

Red  Mountain.  This  eminence  may  be  about  1500 
feot  in  height,  and  is  accessible  for  about  two-thirds  of 
tho  way  in  a  carriage  or  on  horseback,  though  not  with- 
out some  difiiculty,  on  account  of  the  steepness  and 
roughness  of  the  road.  Indeed  the  path  is  very  rocky 
for  half  a  mile  or  more  before  reachmg  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  and  the  hardy  pedestrian  will  prefer  to  leave 
his  horse  at  the  main  road,  before  turning  off  by  the  brook. 
The  traveller  should  direct  his  course  towards  a  little 
notch  he  will  see  about  three  quarters  of  the  distance  up, 
where  a  cultivated  field  and  a  fence  are  visible.  From 
the  houso  situated  there,  ho  must  turn  towards  tho  left, 
and  follow  a  path  to  the  summit. 

An  early  visit  is  recommended,  as  the  scene  is  much 
improved  by  an  oblique  light,  and  the  morning  is  on  seve- 
ral accounts  to  bo  preferred. 

The  follovvinix  sketch  of  the  scene  was  noted  down  on 
the  spot,  and  maybe  taken  as  generally  correct. 

Nurlli,  the  eastern  end  of  Squam  Lake,  and  part  of  a 
pond  lying  near  it,  with  the  range  of  the  Sandwich  Moun- 
tains behnul,  stretching  off  towards  the  east,  with  numer- 
ous dark  brown  peaks,  partly  cultivated  about  their  bases, 
and  enveloped  above  with  forests,  excepting  their  sum- 
raits,  which  are  generally  divested  of  verdure.  Far  be- 
yond these  appear  several  loftier  peaks,  which  might  be 
mistaken  for  the  While  Mountains,  were  they  visible  from 


m 


^v\ 


?  ;i 


190 


Tiiw  fhom  Rsn  mountaut. 


this  point.     An  intermediate  peak  with  rocky  precipices 
may  be  While-faced  Mountain. 

East- Northeast.     The  eye  ranges  up  the  spacious  val- 
ley through  which  lies  the  way  to  the  White  Mountains, 
and  the  road  which  ia  to  conduct  the  traveller  seems  di- 
minished to  the  dimensions  of  a  garden  walk.    Chocaway, 
or,  as  it  is  familiarly  called,  Corroway  Peak,  rises  on  the 
left;  while  the  ncble  ridge  of  the  Ossipee  Mountains  be 
gins  nearer  at  hand  on  the  right,  and  almost  overshadows 
the  observer  with  its  enormous  size.     The  sides  of  these 
mountains  show  a  beautiful  display  of  farms,  interspersed 
with  wood-lots  and  dwellings,  which  in  many  places  have 
encroached  far  towards  the  summits,  and  in  others  pursue 
the  slope  of  the  fertile  uplands  to  the  valley  at  their  feet. 
Numerous  elevations  appear  at  a  greater  distance,  and 
range  themselves  in  lines  to  complete  the  perspective  of 
a  most  magnificent  vista,  which  finally  closes  at  a  ridge, 
whose  shade  is  reduced  by  its  remoteness  to  the  colour 
of  a  cloud.     A  prominent  and  remarkable  mountain, 


which  appears  scarcely  less  distant,  is  called  Pickwaket 
Mountam,  and  rises  by  the  Saco  River,  near  the  place 
where  Capt.  Lovel  fought  his  well-known  battle  with  the 
Indians ;  and  the  fine  valley  between  is  the  country  pass- 
ed over  in  that  fatal  expedition,  in  both  the  approach  and 
the  retreat. 

East.  The  view  abuts  upon  the  Ossipee  Mountains, 
and  no  variety  is  afforded  until  we  turn  to  the 

South-Southeast.  In  that  direction,  and  farther  to  the 
right,  the  whole  surface  of  Winnipiseogee  Lake  lies 
charmingly  spread  out  to  view,  varied  by  numerous  points 
and  headlands,  and  hiterspersed  with  beautiful  islands 
which  man  despairs  to  number.  Several  distant  eleva- 
tions appear,  on  this  side  of  which  the  sloping  land  just 
mentioned  extends  for  several  miles  along  the  shore,  with 
a  well-cultivated  surface  spotted  in  all  directions  with 
large  barns  and  farm-houses,  to  the  very  margin  of  the 
lake.  There  numerous  points  run  out  far  into  the  water, 
to  complete  the  labyrinths  formed  by  the  islands.  Gun- 
stock  Mountain  rises  one  point  east  of  south,  just  on  the 
left  of  which  opens  the  entrance  of  Merry-meeting  Bay. 
ThA  elevated  island  on  the  ric^ht  of  that  is  Rattlesnake 


lit 

1    A 


noUTE   TO  THE  WlIITS   MOUNTAINS. 


191 


precipices 

acious  val- 
lountains, 

seems  di- 
Ohocaway, 
1808  on  the 
intains  be 
ershadows 
as  of  these 
kterspersed 
)1aces  have 
icrs  pursue 
,  their  feet, 
ttance,  and 
spective  of 
at  a  ridge, 
the  colour 

mountain, 
Pickwaket 
r  the  place 
tie  with  the 
untry  pass- 
iproach  and 

Mountains, 

ther  to  the 
Lake  lies 
irou3  points 
iful  islands 
tant  eleva- 
\g  land  just 
shore,  with 
ctions  with 
irgin  of  the 
)  the  water, 
ids.  Gun- 
,  just  on  the 
leting  Bay. 
Rattlesnake 


Island,  named  from  the  vencmous  reptiles  with  which  it 
abounds  ;  over  this  the  distant  land  appears  high.  South 
by  west  rises  a  high  hill  resembling  the  Ossipco  in  the 
richness  of  its  slopes. 

Tho  Southwest  and  West  is  agreeably  varied  with 
wood  lots  and  cleared  fields,  scattered  over  an  undulated 
surface,  which  extends  for  many  miles,  in  some  places 
■quite  to  the  horizon,  and  in  others  to  the  broken  boundary 
of  tall  but  distant  mountains.  In  the  southwest  ap» 
pear  two  or  three  peaks,  so  far  removed  that  they  are 
almost  lost  in  the  blue  of  the  sky.  Nearly  west  are  seen 
several  ridges  of  inferior  magnitude,  which,  approaching 
as  the  eye  slowly  moves  towards  the  left,  at  length  come 
near  the  lake,  and  disappear  behind  the  neighbouring 
mountains. 

Long  Pond  may  be  distinguished  by  its  shining  surface 
between  the  west  and  south,  with  several  other  little 
sheets  of  water,  which  lie  in  tranquillity  under  the  shelter 
■of  the  hills. 

Winnipiseogce  Lake  is  19  miles  in  length,  from  Centre 
Harbour  to  Alton,  at  the  southeastern  extremity.  Merry- 
meeting  Bay  lieu  beyond.  Several  of  the  islands  are  large, 
and  contain  good  farma  and  wealthy  inhabitants,  although 
only  two  or  three  of  them  belong  to  any  town  or  pay  any 
taxes.  Some  of  their  names  are  Rattlesnake,  jow ,  Bear, 
and  Moon  Island ;  also.  Half  Mile,  One  Mile,  Two  Mile 
Islands,  &c.  &c.  None  of  them  contain  churches  ;  and 
although  they  have  no  school  houses,  yet  sufficient  atten- 
tion is  paid  to  the  rudiments  of  education  to  render  the 
■children  intelligent.  Winnipiseogee  Lake,  according  to 
surveys  made  by  Mr.  Baldwin  in  1825,  is  501  feet  above 
the  ocean. 

Sqdam  Lake  lies  west  from  Rod  Mountain,  and  like 
Winnipiseogee  Lake,  abounds  not  only  in  islands,  but 
in  fish  of  the  finest  descriptions.  Fine  trout  are  caught 
here  in  great  abundance,  and  of  a  size  superior  to  those 
of  the  other  lake.  The  trout  of  Winnipiseogee  Lake 
vary  from  1  to  4  pounds  in  weight,  while  those  of  Squam 
Lake  are  between  4  and  10.  They  are  sometimes  caught 
of  nearly  double  this  size ;  but  that  is  very  uncommon, 
The  *'*"p*  ^'^ —  •     -!_■  /I  •    I        1     • 


l# 


■    a 


I"      I 


.Tiorittl"ir 


chiSiiy  carricu  on  duiinu  tuc  wuitcr. 


17* 


it 


192 


corwaY. 


1$  i- i 


111 


when  great  quantities  are  salted  for  the  Boston  market. 
Perch  also  abound  very  much  in  these  waters,  and  are  re- 
markably fine. 

The  hue  of  the  shrubbery  m  autumn  has  given  the 
mountain  its  name.  The  summit  id  strewed  with  loose 
fragments  ;  and  muaquetoes  and  black  flics  often  abound 

there. 

A  few  days  may  he  spent  at  Centre  Harbour  very 
agreeably,  in  making  excursions  in  the  neighbourhood,  or 
in  sailing  upon  the  lake,  which  abounds  in  the  most  inter- 
esting variety  of  scenes.  On  leaving  this  ])lace  by  water, 
at  the  distance  of  five  m'les,  the  White  Mountains  rise 
into  view  above  the  intermediate  peaks,  and  continue  in 
sigh*  quite  across  the  lake. 

From  Centre  Harbour  to  Conway.  Proceeding  north- 
east from  Centre  Harbour,  you  enter  the  valley  between 
the  two  chains  of  mountains  seen  from  the  top  of  Red 
Mountain,  and  pass  through  Moultonboro'  and  Tamworth. 
The  surface  is  irregular,  and  much  of  the  land  uncleared ; 
but  settlements  havo  extended  far  up  t\\e  sides  of  some 
of  the  mountains,  and  farms  are  occasionally  discovered 
quite  at  the  top.  The  features  of  the  scenery  are  bold 
and  striking. 

Eaton  Meeting  House.  Two  miles  northwardly  from 
this,  Ossipee  Lake  may  be  seen  by  leaving  tho  road. 

Conway,  six  miles'.  The  view  of  the  White  Moun- 
tains is  very  fine  from  this  place,  presenting  a  succession 
of  lofty  ridges,  the  most  distant  of  which  are  the  peaks  of 
Mounts  Washington,  Adams,  Jefierson,  Madison,  Monroe, 
and  Quincy.  The  most  prominent  elevation  on  the  right, 
with  two  summits,  is  Kearsearge,  or  Pickwaket :  a  level 
meadow  lies  in  the  foreground  with  an  isolated,  woody 
hill  in  the  middle,  and  the  Saco  River,  which  rises  oh 
Mount  Washington,  and  flows  down  a  narrow  valley,  with 
many  meanderings. 

The  shortest  road  from  Conway  to  the  mountains  leads 
directly  to  Bartlett :  but  the  most  travelled  as  well  as  the 
most  agreeable  route  is  by  the  way  of  Fryeburgh,  where 
will  be  seen  the  beautiful  tract  of  level  country  through 
which  meanders  the  Saco  River;  and  the  great  Pick- 
waket Mountain,  which  rises  from  its  border.  That  was 
the  beautiful  and  favourite  residence  ox  tue  nation  ot  ricK- 


FIlYKnUROII. 


193 


I  market, 
nd  arc  rc- 

jiven  the 
trith  loose 
en  abound 

rbour  very 
iirhood,  or 
no8t  inter- 
by  water, 
itains  rise 
ontinue  in 

ling  nortb- 
y  between 
)p  of  Red 
Famworth. 
uncleared ; 
68  of  some 
discovered 
y  are  bold 

irardly  from 
road. 

hite  Moun- 
.  succession 
he  peaks  of 
»n,  Monroe, 
n  the  right, 
fit :  a  level 
ited,  woody 
ch  rises  on 
valley,  with 

utalns  leads 
well  as  the 
rgh,  where 
try  through 
great  Pick- 
That  was 
ion  of  Pick- 


wakot  Indians,  and  on  the  bank  of  Level's  Pond  wn« 
fought  a  bloody  battle  between  them  and  a  company  of 
troops  from  Massachusetts,  in  the  yonr  1725 

The  Chalybeate  Spring  in  Conway  is  in  a  valley,  with 
mountains  on  every  side  except  the  southeast.  From  near 
the  church,  the  White  Mountains  aro  in  sight.  Two  or 
throe  miles  above,  the  Saco  valley  bends  to  the  left,  and 
Kllis's  River  comes  down  a  narrow  vale  in  front.  \]\) 
the  course  of  this  stream  was  formerly  a  route  by  which 
the  highest  peaks  were  ascended.  A  foot  path  leaves  it 
in  Adams,  and  goes  on  to  Shclburne,  &c.  It  is  seven 
miles  to  Bnrtlett. 

Fryerurgh.  The  township  of  Fryeburgh,  in  its  ox- 
tent  of  six  square  miles,  embraces  n  rich  and  beautiful 
valley,  secluded  on  every  side  by  a  wild  and  mountainous 
range  of  country.  The  Saco  river,  taking  its  rise  on 
Mount  Washington,  and  flowing  through  the  Notch  in  the 
White  Hills,  passes  down  the  valley  to  Conway,  where  it 
finds  the  termination  of  the  southern  range;  and  then 
turning  abruptly  to  the  east,  soon  enters  the  charming 
meadows  of  Fryeburgh,  and  performs  a  serpentine  course 
of  no  less  than  thirty-six  miles  within  the  limits  of  tho 
township. 

The  Indian  Fort  was  on  a  gentle  hill  at  the  western 
side  of  the  village,  which  commands  a  view  of  the  Saco 
valley  six  miles  up  its  course,  atid  six  miles  down. 

Lovel's  Pond  is  on  an  isthmiis,  about  one  mile  south- 
east from  the  village,  and  is  memorable  as  the  scene  of 
one  of  the  most  severe  and  disastrous  battles  in  the  old 
partizan  warfare  against  the  Indians. 

The  Portland  road  passes  along  the  western  side  of  the 
pond,  and  affords  a  view  of  its  north  end.  This  was  tho 
place  of  the  action.  Another  road  runs  very  near  the 
north  shore ;  and  it  is  a  pleasant  ride  to  the  place. 

LoveVs  Expedition.  In  1725,  Captain  Level  under- 
took a  secret  expedition  through  the  wilderness  against 
the  Pickwaket  tribe  of  Indians,  who,  instigated  by  tho 
French,  had  committed  many  depredations  on  the  fron- 
tier, so  that  the  general  court  of  Massachusetts  had  offer- 
ed one  hundred  pounds  each  for  their  scalps.  His  com- 
pany consisted  of  thirty  or  forty  men,  many  of  them 
accustomed  to  the  life  of  hardy  huntors  and  settlers,  with 


Mh 


fl 


If 


=  M 


t94 


tHS   INeNOATIOS   OF    182<J. 


youngf  Mr.  Frye  for  their  chaplain,  whose  history  wa^ 
Bomewhat  romantic,  and  from  whom  this  town  received 
its  name. 

They  pasi^ed  up  Winnip'seogco  Lake,  Ossipce  Pond, 
tho  Saco,  and  encamped  at  the  tnoutli  of  Mill  Brook  at  the 
northwest  corner  of  Level's  Pond.  Il  happened  that  the 
Indians  had  gone  down  the  Saco  River,  and  on  their  re- 
turn, discovering  tracks,  pursued  them  towards  Lovel's 
Pond  ;  and,  having  discovered  the  encampment,  nnd  the 
way  they  had  gone,  removed  their  packs,  and  forming  an 
ambush  around  the  place  iired  upon  them  on  their  re- 
turn, and  killed  eight  men.  Tho  white  men  retreated  to 
the  northeast  corner  of  the  pond,  where  is  a  narrow  strip 
of  land,  and  defended  themselves  till  night ;  and  tlie  re* 
mains  of  the  unfortunate  expedition  rettif  ned  through  the 
forest,  suffering  from  hunger  and  fatigue,  and  some  of 
them  from  wounds. 

A  tremendous  catastrophe  occurred  among  the  White 
Mountains  on  the  night  of  Aug.  28th,  1826.  A  storm 
ofrain.  Unprecedented  within  the  memory  of  the  oldest 
inhabitants,  deluged  the  principal  peaks  of  the  moun* 
tains,  and  poured  such  an  inundation  upon  the  valleys  and 
plains  below,  that  it  is  commonly  attributed  to  the  "  burst-* 
ingofa  cloud;"  although  that  expression  is  a  very  ill 
defined  one.  The  ejects  produced  by  the  flood  will  re* 
main  for  centuries}  and  as  many  of  these  lie  exposed  to 
the  eye,  the  route  will  offer  many  new  objects  interesting 
to  an  intelligent  traveler. 

The  inundation  was  so  great  and  so  sudden>  that  the 
channels  of  the  streams  were  totally  insuflicient  to  admit 
of  the  passa^'e  of  the  water,  which  consequently  over* 
flowed  the  little  level  valleys  at  the  feet  of  the  mountains. 
Innumerable  torrents  immediately  formed  on  all  sides } 
and  such  deep  trenches  were  cut  by  the  rushing  water, 
that  vast  bodies  of  earth  and  stones  fell  from  the  moun- 
tains, bearing  with  them  the  forests  that  had  covered 
them  for  ages.  Some  of  these  *'  slides,"  as  they  are  here 
popularly  denominated,  (known  among  the  Alps  as  "  avw 
lunches  de  terre,^')  are  supposed  to  have  been  half  a 
mile  in  breadth,  and  from  one  to  five  miles  in  length. 
Scarcely  any  natural  occurrence  can  bo  imagined  more 
??wblim.e;  andamona'  the  devastation  which  it  h&?  left  to 


istory  wa^ 
n  received 

pee  Pond, 
rook  at  the 
Dd  that  the 
m  their  re- 
'da  Lo vol's 
nt,  and  the 
forming  an 
n  their  rc« 
^treated  to 
irrow  strip 
nd  the  re» 
irough  the 
d  some  o( 


the  White 
A  storm 
the  oldest 
the  moun* 
■alleys  and 
he  "  burst-* 
a  very  ill 
od  will  re" 
3xposed  to 
interesting 

i>  that  the 
t  to  admit 
mtly  over* 
Tiountainst 
all  sides  | 
ing  water, 
the  moun- 
d  covered 
y  are  here 
1  as  "  ava- 
ien  half  a 
in  length, 
ined  more 
las  left  to 


«t 


f    ■ 


I     ■+ 


III 

1 

ll 

1 

1  wl 

I''^^hI 

11 

Sj:l, 

Sf 


TWK   W!!IiK   MOUNTAIHS. 


ins 


trsllfy  the  power  of  the  elements,  the  traveller  will  bo 
filled  with  awo  at  the  thought  of  that  Being,  by  whom  they 
are  controlled  and  directed. 

The  streams  brought  away  with  them  immense  quan- 
tities of  earth  and  sand,  which  the  turbid  water  deposit- 
ed, when  any  obstacle  threw  it  back,  in  tempurnry 
ponds  and  laKcs.  The  forest  trees  were  also  floated 
down,  frequently  several  miles  from  the  places  where 
they  were  rooted  up.  The  timber  was  often  marked 
with  deep  grooves  and  trenches  made  by  the  rocks  which 
passed  over  them  during  their  descent  from  the  moun- 
tains ;  and  great  heaps  of  trees  were  deposited  in  some 
places,  while  in  others,  the  soil  of  the  little  meadows 
Vftis  buried  with  earth,  sand,  or  rocka,  to  the  depth  of  seve- 
ral feet. 

The  turnpike  road  leading  through  this  romantic  coun- 
try, was  twenty  miles  in  length,  but  was  almost  en- 
tirely destroyed.  Twenty-one  of  the  twenty-three  bridges 
upon  it  were  demolished;  one  of  them,  built  with  stent, 
cost  one  thousand  dollars.  In  some  places,  the  Saco 
river  ran  along  the  road,  and  cut  down  deep  channels. 

The  Notch  House,  (which  is  represented  in  the  print,) 
•was  the  scene  of  a  most  melancholy  tragedy  on  the  night 
above  mentioned,  when  this  inundation  occurred.  Seve- 
ral days  previously  a  large  "  slide"  came  down  from  the 
mountains  behind  it,  and  passed  so  near  as  to  cause  great 
alarm,  without  any  injury  to  the  inmates.  The  house  was 
occupied  by  Mr.  Calvin  Willey,  whose  wife  was  a  young 
woman  of  a  very  interesting  character,  and  of  an  edu- 
cation not  to  be  looked  for  in  so  wild  a  region.  They 
had  a  number  of  young  children,  and  their  family  at  the 
time  included  several  other  persons,  amounting  in  all  to 
eleven.  They  were  waked  in  the  night  by  the  noise  of 
the  storm,  or  more  probably,  by  the  second  descent  of 
avalanches  from  the  neighbouring  mountains :  and  fled 
in  their  night  clothes  from  the  house  to  seek  their  safe- 
ty, but  thus  threw  themselves  in  the  way  of  destruction. 
One  of  the  slides,  100  feet  high,  stopped  within  three 
feet  of  the  house.  Another  took  away  the  barn,  and 
overwhelmed  the  family.  Nothing  was  found  of  tliem 
for  some  time :  their  clothes  were  lying  at  their  bed- 
sides, the  house  had  been  started  on  its  foundation,  by 


'» 


19G 


CRAWFORD'S   FARM. 


an  immonse  heap  of  earth  and  timber,  which  had  shd 
down  and  stopped  as  soon  as  it  touched  it;  and  they 
had  all  been  crushed  on  leaving  the  door,  or  borne 
away  with  the  water  that  overflowed  the  meadow.  The 
bodies  of  several  of  thorn  were  never  found.  A  catastro- 
phe so  melancholy,  and  at  the  same  time  so  singular  in 
its  circumstances,  has  hardly  ever  occurred.  It  will  al- 
ways furnish  the  traveller  with  a  melancholy  subject  of 
reflection. 

Bartlett  is  a  comfortable  village,  situated  in  a  rich 
valley,  or  interval,  of  about  300  acres,  where  the  view  is 
bounded  on  every  side  by  near  and  lofty  mountains.  There 
is  another  interval  among  the  mountains  westward,  which, 
although  it  contains  as  much  good  cleared  land,  has  been 
converted  into  a  common,  in  consequence  of  the  difiiculty 
of  making  a  good  road  to  it.  Pursuing  still  the  course  of 
the  narrow  valley,  against  the  current  of  the  Saco,  the 
country  is  found  uncleared,  except  two  or  three  pretty 
little  meadows;  and  destitute  of  inhabitants,  excepting 
only  three  or  four  poor  families,  until  arriving  at 

Crawford's  Farm,  seven  and  a  half  miles  south  of 
the  Notch.  Here  the  traveller  will  be  comfortably  enter- 
tained. The  water  rose  in  this  house  two  feet  in  the  flood 
of  1826.  This  is  the  place  from  which  visiters  formerly 
began  their  excursions  to  the  summit  of  the  mountains. 

Prospect  Mountain,  one  of  the  principal  peaks,  pre- 
sents itself  to  view  a  little  before  arriving  at  the  first 
Crawford's,  with  its  smooth  rounded  summit  of  brown 
moss,  rising  several  hundred  feet  above  the  region  of 
vegetation,  and  offering  an  aspect  which  distinguishes 
thesfc  from  the  other  elevations. 

The  climate  in  this  narrow  valley  is  still  so  warm  as  to 
favour  the  growth  of  various  trees  which  are  scarcely  to  be 
found  a  few  miles  further  north.  The  forests  are  hero 
formed  of  spruce,  ash,  beech,  maple,  sugar  maple,  and 
Indian  corn  ^rows  well,  which  will  not  come  to  maturity 
beyond.     The  orchard  contains  hundreds  of  apple  trees. 

This  is  one  of  the  principal  stopping  places  for  the 
sleighs,  which  pass  the  mountains  in  great  number  during 
the  winter,  for  Portland,  Boston,  &c. 

Nancy^s  Hill  is  a  small  elevation  a  few  miles  north  of 
this  place.     In  1773  a  young  woman  of  respectable  con- 


ti;  • 


h  had  slid 

and  they 

or   borne 

iow.     The 

A  catastro- 

singular  in 

It  will  al- 

■  subject  of 

I  in  a  rich 
the  view  i3 
■ins.  There 
ard,  which, 
[,  has  been 
16  difficulty 
le  course  of 
I  Saco,  the 
hree  pretty 

excepting 
It 

58  south  of 
;ably  enter- 
in  the  flood 
rs  formerly 
juntains. 
)'eak9,  pre- 
it  the  first 
t  of  brown 

region   of 
stinguishes 

warm  as  to 
arcely  to  be 
;3  are  hero 
maple,  and 
:o  maturity 
pple  trees, 
ces  for  the 
iber  during 

3S  north  of 
ctable  con- 


THE   WHITE     MOUNTAINS. 


197 


nexions,  who  accompanied  a  family  of  settlers  to  Dart- 
mouth, (now  Jefferson,)  set  out  in  the  winter  to  return  to 
Portsmouth,  alone  anrl  on  foot,  her  lover  having  promised 
to  meet  her  there  and  marry  her.  There  was  then  na 
house  nearer  than  Bartlett,  30  miles.  Nancy  was  found 
by  some  travellers  in  this  spot,  frozen  and  covered  with 
ice,  under  a  shelter  formed  of  branches  of  trees,  -which 
was  the  only  shelter  to  be  found  on  the  way. 

The  Notch  House  is  situated  in  a  secluded  little  valley, 
about  5  miles  north  of  Crawford's,  and  is  the  only  build- 
ing seen  in  a  distance  of  12  miles.  It  has  sometimes  been 
uninhabited  during  the  stimmer  season,  though  open  to  all 
comers  :  in  the  winter  a  <Vimily  occupies  it  to  keep  a  fircr 
lodgings,  and  a  little  food,  provided  for  the  travellers  and 
wagoners,  who  might  otherwise  perish  for  want  of  the 
necessaries  of  life.     See  page  135. 

The  climate  is  so  cold,  that  the  land  was  not  worth  culti- 
vating; and  although  the  place  had  been  occupied  by 
several  tenants,  no  one  will  keep  the  house  in  repair,  eveii 
rent  free.  There  are  no  good  uplands,  the  soil  there  be« 
ing  all  gravel :  and  the  climate  is  sensibly  colder  than  a: 
the  last  stopping  place. 

There  is  a  place  near  the  Notch,  where  the  road  suffer^ 
ed  severe  injury.  It  had  been  built  up  against  the  side  of 
a  mountain,  on  a  wall  40  or  50  feet  high,  and  about  30 
yards  in  extent,  at  the  expense  of  $500.  This  whole 
fabric  was  swept  away  by  a  mass  of  earth,  rocks  and  trees, 
which  came  from  a  half  a  mile  up  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain, and,  rushing  down  at  an  angle  of  about  45  deg.  pre- 
cipitated itself  into  the  bed  of  the  Saco,  which  is  nearly 
300  feet  below. 

In  repairing  this  road  in  the  winter,  the  workmen  had 
great  difficulty  in  getting  over  the  obstructions.  They  ex- 
pected to  find  but  httle  daylight  at  that  late  season  of  the 
year ;  but  they  found  that  the  summits  of  the  mountains 
received  very  early  intelligence  of  morning,  and  the  snows 
reflected  it  into  the  valleys  and  ravines. 

The  road  rises  with  a  steep  ascent  for  a  considerable 
distance  before  it  reaches  the  Notch,  and  the  traveller  ob- 
serves two  cataracts,  one  pouring  down  a  precipitous 
mountain  at  a  distance  on  the  west  side  of  the  valley,  and 
the  other  which  is  called 


II' 


lii'il 


108 


MOUNT    Wi-SHINOTOW* 


ti^ 


The  Finme,  rushing  down  on  the  right  handj  an»l 
crossing  the  road  under  a  bridge.  The  scenery  is  sub- 
lime and  impressive  beyond  description.  Just  beyond  is 
another  i'7« we. 

About  150  yards  beyond  is  the  first  groat  shde  seen  in 
coming  from  the  Notch. 

The  Notch  is  so  narrow  as  to  allow  only  room  enough 
for  the  path  and  the  Saco,  which  is  here  a  mere  brook 
only  four  feet  in  breadth.  It  is  remarkable  that  the  Saco 
and  the  Ammonoosuc  spring  from  fountains  on  Mount 
Washington,  within,  perhaps,  60  yards  of  each  other, 
though  the  former  empties  into  the  Atlantic,  and  the  latter 
ioins^'Connecticut  River.  Another  branch  of  the  Ammo- 
noosuc approaches  the  Saco  in  one  place,  within  about 
HOO  yards.  They  are  both  crossed  beyond  the  Notch. 
Tlio  head  waters  of  the  Merrimack  rise  within  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  of  this  place ;  and  run  down  a  long  ravine, 
little  less  remarkable  than  that  of  the  Saco. 

A  road  was  first  made  through  the  Notch  in  1785.  It 
was  50  or  60  feet  higher  than  the  present  turnpike,  and  so 
Bteep  that  it  was  necessary  to  draw  horses  and  wagons  up 
with  ropes.     The  assessment  for  the  turnpike  was  made 

in  1806.  ,        ^  ^.  ,    ,, 

Two  rocks  stand  at  the  sides  of  this  remarkable  pas- 
sage, one  20,  and  the  other  about  30  feet,  in  perpendicu- 
lar' height.  They  arc  about  20  feet  asunder,  at  6  or  7 
yards  from  the  north  end ;  where  they  open  to  30  feet. 
The  part  which  appears  to  have  been  cut  through  is  about 
120  feet  long.  A  little  meadow  opens  beyond ;  where  is 
an  inn,  at  which  the  traveller  is  advised  to  stop. 

This  is  the  place  where  those  who  meditate  the  ascent 
of  Mount  Washington,  will  slop  for  a  day  or  more.  The 
master  of  the  house  will  furnish  a  guide. 

Mount  Washington.  The  ascent  of  the  mountain  was 
formerly  a  most  arduous  undertaking,  and  was  very  rarely 
performed,  but  several  ladies  have  lately  been  enumerated 
among  those  who  have  gained  the  summit  The  whole 
way  lies  through  a  perfect  forest.  The  first  four  miles  are 
over  a  surface  comparatively  level;  but  the  last  two  miles 
and  a  quarter  are  up  an  ascent  not  differing  much  from 
an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees. 


;  hanrt^  and 
snery  is  sub- 
it  beyond  is 


lide 


seen  in 


oom  enough 

mere  brook 

tiat  the  Saco 

3  on  Mount 

each  other, 

Lnd  the  latter 

the  Ammo- 

within  about 

[  the  Notch. 

ithin  about  a 

L  long  ravine, 

in  1785.  It 
npike,  and  so 
id  wagons  up 
e  was  made 

larkable  pas- 
i  perpendicu- 
er,  at  6  or  7 
I  to  30  feet, 
ough  is  about 
nd ;  where  is 
Lop. 

ite  the  ascent 
r  more.     The 

nountain  was 
eis  very  rarely 
Q  enumerated 
The  whole 
four  miles  are 
last  two  miles 
J  much  from 


tHK  WMiTK  Mountains 


19D 


The  time  to  perform  the  difforont  parts  of  this  cxcur* 
Sion  may  be  estimated  as  follows  : 

To  the  base  of  Mount  Wnshinpton,  4  miles,  1  hour ; 
thence  to  the  summit,  2  miles  and  93  rods,  2  or  2J  hours  ; 
returning  from  the  summit  to  the  base,  IJ  liour^ ;  ihence  to 
the  inn,  1  hour. 

The  streams  of  the  Ammonoosuc  River,  which  are  to 
be  crossed  seven  times,  show  the  ravages  of  the  inunda- 
tion of  1826. 

The  Camp. — Here  provisions  of  different  kinds  will  be 
produced,  and  even  cooked  by  a  cheerful  fire ;  and  if  the 
travellera  are  sportsmen,  and  the  season  is  favourable,  a 
dish  of  line  trout  may  soon  be  obtained  from  the  romantic 
little  stream  which  dashes  by  williin  twenty  yards  of  the 
encampment. 

The  ascent  of  Mount  Washington  is  laborious,  and  the 
most  arduous  exertion  will  be  necessary  to  attain  the 
summit,  which  seems  to  fly  before  the  stranger  when  he 
deems  it  just  attained,  and  to  look  down  in  derision  from 
a  new  and  more  hopeless  height.  The  first  part  of  the 
way  is  through  a  thick  forest  of  heavy  timber,  which  is 
suddenly  succeeded  by  a  girdle  of  dwarf  and  gnarled  fir 
trees,  10  or  15  feet  high,  and  80  rods,  or  about  450  yards 
broad ;  whi'^h,  ending  as  suddenly  as  they  began,  give 
place  to  a  kind  of  short  bushes,  and  finally  a  thin  bed  of 
moss,  not  half  sufficient  to  conceal  the  immense  granite 
rocks  which  deform  the  surface.  For  more  than  a  mile, 
the  surface  is  entirely  destitute  of  trees.  A  few  strag- 
gling spiders,  and  several  species  of  little  flowering  plants, 
are  the  only  objects  that  attract  the  attention,  under  the 
feet. 

The  following  heights  are  stated  to  be  those  of  the 
different  peaks,  above  the  level  of  the  Connecticut  River 
at  Lancaster : 

Washmgton,  5,850  ;  Jefferson,  5,261;  Adams,  5,183  ; 
Madison,  5,039  ;  Monroe,  4,932  ;  Quincy,  4,470. 

Mount  Washington  is  believed  to  be  more  than  6,400 
feet  above  the  ocean. 

In  a  clear  atmosphere  the  view  is  sublime,  and  almost 
boundless.  The  finest  part  of  it  is  towards  the  southeast 
and  south.     Looking  down  the  valley,  throug'.   vhich  the 

road  has  conducted    us.  a  fine    succession   nf  r.,nnn\n\nnna 

18  '      "  " 


V   ■  r 


200 


viKW  FROM  Mount  Washington. 


i«     if! 


M 


summits  appear  for  many  miles,  extending  below  the  bright 
surface  of  Winipiseoj^ee  Lake. 

Towards  the  southeast  also,  the  eye  ranges  over  an  ex- 
tent of  surface,  which  quite  bewilders  the  mind.  Moun- 
tains, hills,  and  valleyh,  farm-houses,  villages,  and  towns, 
add  their  variety  to  the  natural  features  of  the  country } 
and  the  ocean  nay  be  discovered  at  the  horizon  with  the 
help  of  a  telescope,  although  the  sharpest  sight  perhaps 
has  never  been  able  to  distinguish  it  v  ithout  such  assist- 
ance. In  that  direction  lies  Portland,  the  capital  of 
Maine  ;  and  nearer.  Level's  Pond. 

On  the  northeast  is  seen  the  valley  of  the  Androscog- 
gin Riv  ?r,  which  abounds  in  wild  and  romantic  scenery, 
and  was  the  usual  passage  by  which  the  Indians,  in  their 
hostile  incursions  from  Canada,  used  to  approach  the 
eastern  frontier  settlements  of  Massachusetts  and  New- 
Hampshire.  Beyond,  are  the  Ktardin  Hills,  near  the 
extremity  of  Maine. 

North,  the  country  is  more  wild  and  uncultivated  ; 
and  Umbagog  Lake  is  seen,  from  which  flows  the  An- 
droscoggin. 

West,  the  nearer  view  is  over  a  mountainous  region, 
covered  with  a  thick  forest,  through  which  only  an  occa- 
sional opening  i:.  perceived,  formed  by  the  farms  (or 
clearings)  of  the  hardy  inhabitants.  Beyond,  the  hills  are 
seen  to  rise  trom  theopposiio  shore  of  Connecticut  River, 
the  surface  of  which  is  everywhere  hidden  Irom  view, 
and  the  summits,  rising  higher  and  higher,  terminate  in 
the  ridges  of  the  Green  Mountains  in  Vermont. 

South-westerly  is  seen  the  Grand  Monad  nock. 

The  Indians  knew  the  White  Mountains  by  the  name 
of  Agiocochook,  and  regarded  them  as  inaccessible,  or  at 
least  represented  them  so  to  white  men. 

The  Lake  of  the  Clotids  is  a  little  pond,  near  the 
summit  of  Mount  Monroe,  of  beautiful  clear  water;  and 
supplies  the  head  stream  of  the  Amrnn.ioosuc  River.  This 
little  current  immediately  begins  its  descent,  and  dashes 
in  a  headlong  course  of  several  thousand  feet,  into  the 
valley  near  the  encampment. 

Loose  fragments  of  granite  are  everywhere  scattered 
over  the  mountain,  with  some  specimens  of  gneiss.  The 
granite  is  generally  gray,  and  at  iirst  fine-grained,  but 


mm 


THE   WHITE    MOUNTAINS. 


201 


the  bright 

ver  an  ex- 
1.  Moun- 
ind  towns, 
e  country  j 
n  with  tlie 
ht  perhaps 
uch  assist- 
capital  of 

Vndroscog- 
c  scenery, 
18,  in  their 
(roach  the 
and  New- 
,  near  the 

;uhivated  } 
's  the  An- 

)us  region, 
ly  an  occa- 
farms  (or 
le  hills  are 
icut  River, 
Irom  view, 
rminute  in 


■  the  name 
sible,  or  at 

,  near  the 

/ater;  and 
Liver.  This 
ind  dashes 
!t,  into  the 

e  scattered 
eiss.  The 
•ained,  but 


grows  coarser  as  we  ascend,  and  is  occasionally  sprinkled 
with  small  garnets.  At  the  summit  it  frequently  contains 
a  little  black  tourmaline,  sometimes  in  crossing  crystals. 
On  the  summit,  also,  some  of  the  granite  is  tinged  with 
red,  although  much  of  it  is  coloured  bright  green  by  lich- 
ens, dampened  by  the  humidity  of  the  clouds,  and  inter- 
spersed with  thick  and  soft  gray  moss.  The  grain  of  the 
coarse  granite  is  elongated ;  and  what  strikes  the  visiter 
as  very  singular,  is,  that  not  a  single  rock  is  to  be  found 
in  Its  original  place— every  thing  bears  the  mark  of  re- 
moval ;  and  this,  taken  into  view  with  the  precipice  on 
the  northern  side,  seems  to  indicate  that  the  summit  of 
the  mountain  has  fallen  down  and  disappeared. 

General  Rc7narks.— All  travellers  of  taste  and  leisure 
vyill  be  desirous  of  spending  some  time  among  the  impres- 
sive scenery  of  these  stupendous  mountains. 
_  Although  the  peaks  of  Ktardin  and  Speckled  Mountain, 
m  Maine,  have  been,  by  some,  compared  with  Mount 
Washington,  it  has  been  done  on  mere  conjecture,  and 
with  little  appearance  of  probability.  The  general  belief 
now  seems  to  be,  that  the  lofty  peak  above  us  is  the  high- 
est elevation  in  North  America,  except  Mexico,  and  some 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  inhospitable  nature  of  the 
chmate  is  such  as  to  forbid  all  hopes  of  future  improve- 
ment ;  so  that  the  feeling  of  sublimity,  produced  by  the 
lonely  and  desolate  character  of  this  desert  region,  is  in- 
creased by  the  reflection,  that  it  is  destined  to  be  a  wil- 
derness for  ever. 

The  only  places  susceptible  of  cultivation  in  the  heart 
of  the  mountains,  are  the  little  meadows  inhabited  by  sin- 
gle fiimilies,  and  that  at  the  "  Noick  House;''  and  there 
the  interval  of  warm  weather  is  so  short  in  the  year,  that 
few  vegetables  can  arrive  at  maturity,  with  all  the  rapidity 
of  growth  which  distinguishes  such  cold  regions.    Indeed, 
the  shortness  and  uncertainty  of  crops,  with  the  expense 
of  keeping  stoclv,  &c.  would  scarcely  allow  the  farmer  a 
support,  without  the  advantages  afforded  by  the  thorough- 
fare, which  is  particulariy  great  during  the  winter  season. 
1  opulation,  therefore,  may  extend  to  the  borders  of  these 
regions,  and  increase,  as  it  does,  on  every  side;  but  it 
cannot  pass  the  limir,  because  it  cannot  contend  with  their 
coldness  and  sterilitv. 


202 


ROADS. 


Various  kinds  of  wild  birds  and  gnmc  arc  to  bo  found 
in  tho  woods,  besides  bears,  wild  cats,  and  deer,  Tbo 
moose  and  buffalo  were  formerly  abundant  among  tho 
mountains  ;  and  it  is  scarcely  thirty  years  since  they  wore 
killed  in  great  numbers,  merely  for  th(>ir  hides  and  tallow, 
as  the  latterstill  are  in  the  deserts  beyond  the  Mississippi. 
Deer  are  common  in  tho  woofls,  and  frecpjently  are  killed 
by  the  hunters.  Sometimes  they  come  boldly  down  into 
the  little  meadow  before  Ethan  Crawford's  house,  and 
quietly  graze  with  the  cnttle.  Black  bears  arc  occasion- 
ally seen  in  the  more  unfrequented  places,  but  they  will 
always  endeavour  to  avoid  a  man  A  large  species  of 
elk,  here  known  by  the  name  of  the  Cariboo,  has  made 
its  appearance  in  the  White  Mountains  within  a  few 
years,  but  they  are  still  very  scarce  in  this  part  of  tho 
country. 

The  weather  is  liable  to  frequent  changes  in  the  moun- 
tainous region,  which  is  partly  owing  to  ihe  vicinity  of  the 
Notch,  through  which  the  wind  blows,  almost  without 
ceasing,  even  when  the  air  is  perfectly  still  at  only  a  short 
distance  from  it  From  the  situation  of  the  mountains, 
it  is  impossible  that  the  direction  of  the  wirwl  should  vary 
materially  in  the  val'ey ;  and  it  is  therefore,  of  course,  al- 
ways north  or  south.  During  the  winter  it  is  often  very 
violent,  so  that  not  only  the  snow  is  prevented  from  lying 
on  the  path  at  the  Notch  ;  but  the  surface  is  swept  of 
every  thing  that  a  strong  wind  can  remove. 

The  summits  of  the  mountains  are  frequently  invested 
with  mist,  when  the  sky  is  clear ;  and  rhose  only  who  in- 
habit the  vicinity,  are  able  to  tell  whether  the  day  is  to  bo 
favourable  for  the  ascent.  The  mists  sometimes  collect 
in  the  valleys,  and  then  present  some,  of  the  most  singular 
and  beautiful  appearances. 

Roads.    There  are  two  roads  hence  to  Connecticut  Ri 
vcr;  one  over  Cherry  Mountain  (quite  laborious)  to  Lan- 
caster; the  other  shorter,  through   Breton  Woods,  Bethr- 
lehera  and  Littleton,  (rough  and  stony,)  to  Bath,  34  milea* 
[See  Index  ]  • 


wm 


tVS.T. 


203 


o  bo  found 
leer.  Tlio 
irnong  tho 
3  thoy  wore 
ind  tallow; 
/lississippi. 
'  are  killed 

down  into 
liouse,  and 
e  occasion- 
It  they  will 

species  of 
,  has  made 
hin  a  few 
part  of  tho 

the  moun- 
:inity  of  the 
ist  without 
inly  a  short 
mountains, 
should  vary 

course,  al- 
i  often  very 

from  lying 
i  swept  of 

ly  invested 
ily  who  in- 
day  is  to  bo 
;nes  collect 
:}st  singular 

lecticut  Ri 
as)  to  Lan-' 
oods,  Bethr> 
h,  34  milei** 


KOUTE  FRO.M  BOSTON  'J'O  MAINE. 


Steam  Navigation  extends  from  Boston  to  Portland, 
Bath,  Eastport,  and  about  40  miles  to  Augusta  in  another 
^irecl]on,  128  miles.  Railroad  (H4  m.)  through  Lynn  10, 
halem  5,  Beverly  8,  Jiowley  13,  Newburyport  3,  East 
Kmgston.N.H.  11.  Siagecoachesto  Exeter  4, Portsmouth 
14.  York,  (Maine)  9,  Wells  15,  Kennebunk  Point  6, 
Saco  10,  Portland  16. 

Do.  by  Steamboats,  13G  m.  Nahant  10,  Marblehead 
6,  Salem  3,  Gloucester 8,  Cape  Ann,  10,  Newbury  10. 
Boar's  Head  Point  7,  Portsmouth  12,  York  5,  Kenne- 
bunk  12,  Fletcher's  Neck  12,  Cape  Elizabeth  13,  Port- 
land 10. 

The  boats  go  about  100  miles  a  day,  and  pass  so  neaf 
the  shore  as  to  afford  many  interesting  views  of  the  nu- 
merous islands,  points,  and  bays,  which  abound  alon.T  the 
coast.  *^ 

Theie  are  coaches  going  to  S.-'lem  every  hour  in  the 
mornmg  and  forenoon  ;  and  it  may,  perhaps,  be  convenient 
to  take  a  seat  in  one  of  them,  as  Salem  is  well  worthy  of 
at  least  a  day's  delay.  Indeed,  if  convenient,  the  stranger 
would  be  gratified  with  several  rides  in  the  vicinity  of  that 
place,  particularly  to  Marblehead. 

Lynn,  9  miles  from  Boston.  This  town  is  devoted  to 
making  shoes ;  great  numbers  of  which  are  annually  ex- 
ported.  Each  house,  almost  without  exception,  ha.s  a 
little  shop  connected  with  it,  in  which  the  men  and  boya 
employ  themselves  in  this  manufacture. 

The  Lynn  Beach,  of  which  mention  has  before  been 
made,  is  in  this  town,  and  lies  on  the  way  to  the  fashion-' 
able  retreat  at  Nahant  It  is  of  hard  sand,  offering  an 
excellent  natural  road,  but  is  impassable  at  high  water. 
The  bay  on  w^ich  it  looks  is  one  of  the  places  where  the 
famous  sea  serpent  was  seen  several  years  ago. 

The  country  beyond  is  rather  hilly  and  uninteresting  J 
but  the  road  is  good. 

Beverly  is  a  town  which  joins  Salem  so  closely,  as 
apparently  to  form  a  part  of  it.  It  has  a  long  street 
through  which  we  pasSj  nearlv  at  thft  fn?st  of  a  hi'-h   bar- 


Mm 


* 


204 


nM.tyi. 


rlli 


I 


\tm 


;    \ 


m  'ii  ^        L 


Ten  hill.  Tlirs  eminence  is  remarkable  in  the  histor)"  of 
witchcraft ;  as  it  is  the  spot  where  numerous  persons  con- 
demned for  that  crime,  in  Salem,  were  executed. 

Salem  This  in  one  of  the  most  populous,  wealthy, 
and  heaiitiful  lowne  in  New-Enf?land.  It  was  one  of 
the  earliest  settlements  made  in  Massachusetts  Bay  *,  nnd 
the  planting  of  the  colony  is  annually  celebrated.  Go- 
vernor Endicott,  one  of  the  most  distinguished  mdivi- 
duals  in  the  early  history  of  this  part  of  the  country,  re- 
sided here. 

Salem  was  for  many  years  engaged  in  an  eiteuaive  and 
lucrative  commerce,  particularly  with  Cliina  ;  and  the 
appearance  of  the  town  is  sufficient  to  show  that  it  still 
contains  a  great  deal  of  wealth.  The  harbour  is  fine,  and 
the  wharves  still  well  supplied  with  stores.  The  streets 
are  generally  too  narrow  ;  but  the  banks,  insurance  offices, 
and  churches,  are  many  of  them  hdndsome  buildings.  Tho 
Square  is  a  large  and  beautiful  iract  of  ground,  near  the 
centre  of  the  town.  About  it  are  seen  many  of  the  finest 
private  buildings  in  the  place. 

The  Marine  Museum  is  an  institution  higWy  creditable 
to  the  town,  under  an  association  of  re£pectablc  nautical 
and  commercial  individuals,  formed  for  the  purpose  of 
making  useful  observations,  and  collecting  curiosities 
from  all  quarters  of  the  world.  No  one  can  become  a 
member  who  has  not  doui»!oid  Cape  Horn,  or  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  either  as  master  or  supercargo  of  a  vessel ; 
and  each  of  them  is  supplied  with  a  journal,  in  which  he 
is  to  note  down  such  remarks  as  be  thmks  important, 
during  his  voyages.  These  are  submitted  to  the  inspec- 
tion of  a  committee;  and  the  curiosities  brought  home 
are  deposited  in  a  handsome  building  belongmg  to  the 
society,  which  is  well  worthy  the  particular  attention  of 
strangers. 

Access  is  readily  gained  by  application  to  any  of  the 
members  ;  this  extensive  and  highly  interesting  cabinet 
being  closed  only  for  the  purpose  of  security,  and  no  fee 
being  required  for  admission.  The  room  is  large,  well 
lighted,  and  filled  with  curiosities  from  all  quarters  of  the 
world,  and  many  specimens  belonging  to  all  the  branches 
of  natural  history.     The  arrangement  is  made  with  great 


FROM    UOSTOit   TO   MAINE. 


'205 


historjr  of 
rsdna  con- 
J. 

,  wealthy, 
\9  one  of 
Hay  ',  nnd 
ted.  Go- 
cd  indivi- 
(untry,  re- 

inaive  and 
;  and  the 
hat  it  8till 
i  fine,  and 
'he  streets 
ICO  oificos, 
ings.  The 
I,  near  the 
:  the  finest 

creditable 
lo  nautical 
purpose  of 
curiosities 

become  a 
le  Cape  of 

a  vessel ; 

which  he 
important, 
he  inspec- 
ight  home 
mg  to  the 
ittention  of 

my  of  the 
ng  cabinet 
and  no  fee 
arge,  well 
ters  of  the 
e  branches 
with  great 


taste,  and  several  hours,  or  indeed  days,  will  hardly  be 
Burticient  for  an  examination  of  all  it  contains. 

The  following  lines  were  written  after  a  visit  to  this  in- 
ercsting  Iiistitu'ion,  by  Beltrami,  a  distinguished  scientific 
traveller,  in  the  year  1827. 

"  Siste  Viator!  Siste,  rnirare  !  est  Orbis  in  urbe, 
"  Et  pra^bet  pulchrum  cuncia  tniranda  Salem. — 
♦'Obsiupui.  hic  Suporum,  nine  hominum   prodigia  vidi, 
"Ponius,  Magna  Parens,  Ignis  et  Ipse  favent. — 
*M)h  Amoricii:  Oh,  felix  tcllus,  populusque  bcntus ! 
"  (iluum  nobis  tollunt  dant  tibi  fata  vicem. — 

Makhlkhkad.     Tboro  is  a  good  road  to  this  town, 
which  stands  at  the  end  of  a  rocky  promontory,   4  miles 
southeast   from    Salom.     It   ia   principally  inhabited    by 
fishermen,  whose  manner  of  life  precludes,  in  a  great  de- 
gree, the  intellectual  improvement  generally  so  character- 
istic of  New-England.     The  harbour  ia  a  small  bay,  pro- 
tected by  barren  rocks,  and  aHbrds  shelter  to  the  numer- 
ous fishing  schooners  employed  in  the  Cod  fishery.     The 
men  and  boys  are  absent  from  home  a  great  part  of  the 
year;  as  each  vessel  usually  makes  three  fishing  voyages, 
or  "fares,"  as  they  are  here  called,  every  season.     They 
lie  on  the   Banks  until  they  have  caught  a  load  of  fish, 
which  are  opened  and  salted  as  soon  as  taken.     The  ves- 
sels then  return,  and  the  fish  are  spread  to  dry  on  wooden 
fiames,  called  Hakes  ;  great  numbers  of  which  will  be  seen 
on  the  shore.     A  few  vessels  still  go  to  the  Labrador 
coast  for  fish.     There  is  a  fort  at  the  extremity  of  the 
town,  which  commands  the  entrance  to  the  harbour,  and 
affords  a  view  of  many  miles  over  the  neighbouring  sheets 
of  water.     The  islands  at  the  entrance  of  Salem  are  wild 
and  rocky ;  and  the  sea  breaks  over  them  with  violence  in 
an  easterly  storm.     Towards  the  south  are  seen  several 
headlands  of  this   iron-bound  coast;  which,  for  a  great 
extent,    even   down  to  the  extremity    of  Massachusetts, 
must  have  appeared  one  of  the  most   inhospitable  to  the 
pilgrims,  who  began  their  settlements  on  this  part  of  New- 
England. 

NKYVBURvroRT.     Stage  House,  or  Merrimack  Hotel, 
on  the  hill.     This  is  a  large,  and  to  a  considerable  extent, 


» 


206 


AMESntRY. 


a.  regularly  built  town,  38  miles  from  Boston.  Tlie  gfentPt 
part  of  it  lioa  in  squiirea,  und  the  best  streeto  are  entirely 
of  brick.  What  is  commonly  called  Newburyport,  how 
ever,  is  connpr)se(i  of"  two  distinct  towns.  The  original 
township  of  Newbury  includes  that  part,  which  reaches 
to  within  about  a  (jtiarter  of  a  mile  of  tlie  shore;  and  the 
rest  ;.,  ua  \Ujich  is  properly  speaking  called  Newbury- 
port. 

The  harbour  is  fine,  and  the  place  once  enjoyed  a  brisk 
and  lucrative  commerce. 

The  bridge  over  the  Merrimack,  is  a  most  beautiful 
structure.  Its  length  is  1000  feet;  and  it  has  four  arches 
and  a  drawbridge,  on  the  side  towards  the  town.  The 
arches  are  supported  by  twelve  chains,  carried  over  four 
towers  in  the  form  of  pyramids,  31  feet  above  high  water 
mark  The  bases  of  these  towers  are  of  hewn  stone,  40 
by  30  feet>  built  on  timber,  each  with  a  breakwater  up  the 
Btream.  The  chains,  separately,  are  strong  enough  to 
bear  22  tons.  The  bridge,  with  the  road  to  Newburyporti 
cost  $()G,000. 

HAMt  iON,  10  miles.  At  Hampton  Beach  is  a  good 
hotel,  which  commands  an  agreeable  view  upon  the  ocean^ 
and  the  she  ve  about  the  Boar's  Head. 

PoRtsMOUTH,  69  miles  from  Boston,  58  from  Portland. 
The  environs  of  the  town  show  many  neat  and  pleasant 
houses  of  wood ;  and  the  middle  part  of  it  is  principally 
of  brick,  with  some  handsome  public  buildings,  although 
the  streets  are  generally  too  narrow.  It  has  been  a  place 
of  much  commerce.  The  Navy  Yard,  on  an  island  op- 
posite the  town,  contains  two  large  ship  buildings,  one  for* 
frigates  and  the  other  for  line-of-'battle  ships. 

The  bridge  across  the  Piscataqua,  leads  into  the  state 
of  Maine,  which  was,  until  within  twenty  years,  a  dis- 
trict of  Massachusetts.  The  current  is  very  strong.  The 
navy  yard  is  seen  on  the  east,  with  the  ship  houses,  &c. 

Amesbury  is  a  manufacturing  place  on  the  Powow^ 
river,  3  miles  from  Newburypor't.  The  river"  is  made  to 
drain  several  ponds  by  an  arched  tunnel  made  through  a 
hill  about  a  century  ago. 

The  country  on  this  road  is  of  a  gently  rolling  form, 
generally  very  poor,  without  irees>  and  changing  only 
from  Band  to  rocka. 


K1!()M    nOSTON    TO    MAINE. 


207 


le  gtcntcr 

0  entirely 
nrt,  how 

1  original 
h  reaches 

and  the 
Newbury 

:d  a  brisk 

beautiful 
air  arched 
vn.  The 
over  foui* 
igh  water 
stone,  40 
ter  up  the 
nough  to 
buryport, 

s  a  good 
he  ocean^ 

Portland. 
[  pleasant 
rincipally 
although 
sn  a  place 
sland  op- 
3,  one  for 

the  state 
•9,  a  dis- 
ng.  The 
uses,  &Ct 
(  PowoW 
made  to 
hrough  a 

ing  form, 
fiiig   only 


York.  There  arc  some  pleasant  fields  aboiit  this  liftl» 
place,  but  its  size  is  insignificant,  when  c«»ntrasted  with  the 
anticipations  formed  of  its  destiny  at  the  time  of  its  first 
settlement:  for  the  ground  was  laid  out  for  a  city,  and  the 
divisions  of  the  land  still  retain  much  of  the  regular  form 
given  it  by  the  first  surveyors. 

The  Nubble  is  a  rocky  point,  4;!  miles  from  York, 
with  a  cluster  of  miserable  huts  in  the  rear.  (  iilled,  in 
derision,  the  city,  or  metropolis  of  Cape  NedUock,  fnmi 
a  point  of  that  name  still  further  on. 

While  travelling  along  t!ii-<  dreary  country,  near  the 
road  passes  the  site  of  an  old  fort  or  block  house,  built 
before  Philip's  war. 

The  Agamenticus  Hills  form  a  range  some  distance 
west. 

LowKR  Welles.  There  is  a  little  harbour  here,  de- 
fended by  a  sand  bar,  with  a  narrow  entrance  under  a 
rock ;  but  it  is  almost  dry  at  low  water. 

Welles.  The  sea  often  breaks  beautifully  on  the 
beach,  in  front  of  the  tavern.  Porpoise  Point  is  just  dis- 
tinguishable in  the  northeast ;  and  the  view  of  the  sea  is 
fine  and  refreshing. 

Three  miles  beyond  is  Breakneck  Hill,  over  which  falls 
a  small  stream,  from  the  height  of  30  feet,  about  40  yards 
from  the  path. 

The  F'ort  was  half  a  mile  beyond,  or  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
north  from  the  church. 

This  htfle  fortress  was  once  attacked  by  500  Indians, 
who  at  first  supposed,  as  was  the  fact,  that  the  men  were 
absent  from  home.  The  place  was,  however,  very  brave- 
ly and  successfully  defended  by  five  women,  who  put  on 
their  husbands'  clothes. 

Kennebunk,  25  miles  from  Portland,  is  a  small  place, 
which  once  carried  on  a  considerable  lumber  trade  with 
the  West  Indies. 

Saco,  fifteen  miles  from  Portland.  Just  south  of  this 
village  is  the  mouth  of  the  Saco,  which  rises  on  Mount 
Washington.  Cutts's  Island  of  75  acres  divides' the  stream, 
just  at  the  falls. 

PoRTL  .ND,  15  miles.  The  situation  of  this  place  is 
remarkably  fine,  occupying  the  ridge  and  side  of  a  high 
t>oint  of  land  with  a  handsome,  though  shallow  bay,  on  one 


t: 


208 


PORTLAKH. 


tide,  and  tho  Imrbour  on  tho  othor.  Tho  anchorage  is 
protected  on  every  side  by  land,  the  water  is  deep,  und  tho 
coinmuni<;ation  with  th(5  sea  direct  and  convenient.  Con- 
groas-dtreet  runn  along  the  ridi^e  of  the  hill,  and  contains 
a  nmnbor  of  very  ele^^ant  private  houses.  There  is  also 
tho  Town  Hall,  witli  the  marUft  below,  and  a  beautiful 
new  church,  with  granite  columns.  The  stops  are  fine 
blocks  of  granite,  ()  feet  by  J),  brought  from  tho  quarry  at 
Brunswick,  22  iniles  distant. 

From  tho  Observntory,  south  and  southwest,  are  se- 
veral distant  emint  noes  :  among  others,  the  Agamenticus 
Hills  ;  northwest  are  seen,  in  clear  weather,  th^  lofty 
ridges  and  piuiks  of  the  White  Mills  in  New-Hampshire, 
which  are  disccivered  at  sea,  cfton  before  tho  nearer  land 
appears  in  sight. 

Cape  Elizabeth  is  tho  liigh  land  on  the  south  side  of 
the  harbour;  and  tho  islands,  which  nearly  close  its  en- 
trance, are  called  Bangs's  and  House  Islands.  Fort 
Treble  stands  on  the  former,  and  Fort  Scammel,  only  a 
block  house,  on  the  latter.  Due  east  is  Seguin  Light 
House,  which  is  visible  in  clear  weather,  32  miles  distant, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Kennebec.  Nearer,  and  in  the  same 
quarter,  lie  numerous  islands  of  various  forms. 

The  intrenchments  on  the  hill,  west  of  the  Observatory, 
belong  to  Fort  Sumner,  and  part  of  them  were  made  in 
the  Revolutionary  war.  Under  tho  bluff,  on  the  water's 
edge,  is  Fort  Burroughs. 

Portland  (the  former  name  was  Falmouth)  was  burnt 
in  the  Revolutionary  war  by  Capt.  Mowatt,  in  the  British 
sloop  of  War  Canceau,  on  the  18lh  of  October,  1775,  on 
the  refusal  of  the  inhabitants  to  deliver  up  their  arms. 
About  130  houses,  three  quarters  of  all  the  place  con- 
tained, were  consumed,  some  being  set  on  fire  with  brands, 
after  a  cannonade  and  bombardment  of  nine  hours.  The 
old  church  is  among  the  buildings  saved,  and  has  the 
mark  of  a  cannon  shot  in  it.  A  small  part  of  Mitchell's 
hotel  belonged  to  one  of  the  houses  not  destroyed. 

There  are  some  fine  stores  and  dwelling  houses  in  the 
middle  of  the  town,  and  the  shore  is  lined  with  wharves 
and  shipping.     There  is  a  small  Museum. 

Remarks  to  the  Traveller  at  Portland.  Boston 
coaches  leave  here  every  morning. 


chorago  is 
^p,  unci  tho 
LMit.  Con- 
tl  contains 
lore  is  abo 
ft  bnauliful 
[)H  uro  fine 
0  quarry  at 

i8t,  are  ho- 
gamenticus 
',  th^  lofty 
iampshiru, 
nearer  land 

nth  side  of 
090  it8  en- 
ids.  Fort 
nel,  only  a 
?uin  Light 
lea  distant, 
n  tho  same 

bservatory, 
ro  made  in 
the  water's 

)  was  burnt 
the  British 
r,  1775,  on 
their  arms, 
place  con- 
vh\x  brands, 
ours.  The 
nd  has  the 
:  Mitchell's 
yed. 

auses  in  the 
ith  wharves 

d.      Boston 


ROUTES    IN    MAINK. 


209 


the  communication  with  Dover,  Concord,  &c.  is  eas)', 
*nd  tho  traveller  troirif,'  in  that  direction  is  referred  to  the 
index  for  those  and  other  places  in  liin  way.  He  may 
tako  tho  route  to  the  White  Mills  by  Fryeburgh  ;  the  road 
leads  through  a  wild  and  thinly  populated  country,  but  is 
not  devoid  of  interest.  The  stagecoach  n-aches  Conway 
in  a  (lay  bv  this  route,  passing  through  Gorham,  Standish, 
Baldwin,  Hiram,  and  Fryeburgh. 

Tho  eastern  and  northeastern  routes  only,  remain  to 
bo  spoken  of.  The  road  along  the  sen  coast  is  more  un- 
interesting, passing  over  a  rocky  soil,  and  is  recommended 
in  gouig  from  Portland.  Tho  upper  road  leads  through 
tt  consideiable  extent  of  fertile  country,  indeed  the  garden 
ot  Mame,  and  shows  several  pleasant  and  nourishing  vil- 
lages, by  which  it  may  be  more  agreeable  to  return. 

Remarks  on  (he  Country  Northeast  from  Portland. 
In  conse(iuenco  of  the  position,  the  climate,  and  soil   of 
Mame,   the  improvement  of  the  country  has  been  much 
retarded.     Settlements  were  made  on  the  coast  as  early 
as   1607,  and   several  others    not    long    afterwards;  but 
they  suffered  severely  in  tho  Indian  wars  ;  and  their  vi- 
cinity to  the  French  mis8ion«»,  which  embraced  all  the 
eastern  part  of  the  present  state,  exposed  them  to  immi- 
nent  danger.     In  later  times  the  population  was  princi- 
pally confined   to   the  sea  coast,   for  the  convenience  of 
fi8hmga,nd commerce;  and  thus  the  good  land,  which  lies 
some  distance  back  in  the  country,  was  almost  entirely 
neglected.     After  tho  Revolutionary  war,  this  extensive 
region  remained  in  the  condition  of  a  district  belonging  to 
Ma&sacliusetts.     In  1820,  it  was  received  into  the  Union 
as  a  separate  state ;  and  agriculture  having  been  intro- 
duced, the  emigration  from  tho  neighbouring  states  hag 
rapidly  swelled  its  population. 

In  travelling  in  Maine,  the  stranger  observes  the  same 
order  of  things  as  in  the  interior  of  New-York,  Ohio,  and 
other  parts  of  the  country,  which  are  fast  improving.  It 
18  but  a  few  years  since  agriculture  was  almost  unknown 
here,  and  now  the  interior  region  between  the  Kennebec 
and  Penobscot  rivers  is  well  peopled,  and  presents  a  scene 
of  rural  cultivatioH  and  prosperity  rarely  equalled.  That 
IS  of  course  the  most  attractive  route  for  the  traveller ; 
fcud  the  road  from  Portland  lie*  through  Augusta  and 


Ifil 


'-If 


sift 


SI'ICA.MIlOAt.^. 


Hiillownll.  Tliiiso  \\li(»  urn  j^oiiig  lo  NinvUninnwIrk, 
\Vi'.  urn  lulvifti'tl  to  liiUc  llii^  rniilc,  nnli'rtK  llioy  prnt'or  iho 
loHrt  i'itlifi>iiiii;;  ititMli<  III' iruvt'lliii^  in  tlio  NtiMiinlHiiil. 

lM<)!4l  <ii<iHi>iH  Ki***>K  ciiMlwiirii  iViMi)  l'i)i'lliiii*l,  will  wi^li 
(ii  vt'liirn  ;  itiiil  t\u\  liiirf  lour  wliifit  wo  nliiill  givo  will  l»o 
l>liiiitiO(l  lor  llii'ir  «'onv«'iiioiiO('  uiul  |tlt'UKiiio,  liy  jMoctinlin^ 
I'xt'M.  aloii^  lli<^  ii(>uooiiMt,  luid  tliiMi  roUii-iiiii^  tiiroii^li  ilio 
fiiio  tnu'l  orcouiiliy  in  llit^  itiloiior. 

It  may  l)o  |iro|)«M'  hoio  to  int'iition,  I  hut  two  romlH  liiivo 
boon  projoolotl  to  i^iiolii'o ;  ont'  by  llio  rivor  KonmOioo, 
ami  llio  olhor  l»y  llio  IVmio1)«<'oi.  Ai  proMoni  llioro  riro  no 
i'oiul.<«  tlirotigii  tlio  iiortliot*n  wililoiiw^MM,  tlioii^li  ii  conunu- 
tiiciition  Itiis  lioon  iu'|it  up  lliiil,  wnv  fbi'  Mi<voi'iil  yoiiiH,  iiml 
hoi'ilH  of  «'!iltl(>  nvo  oociartionnlly  dttvon  into  (.'atiinlii.  Tho 
liiinly  iind  onlorpriHiny  trnvolio'.-  nuiy,  poiliapH,  |»n  willinj( 
to  onoounttM'  tlio  inconvonionco  ot  lod^^in!;  in  tlio  opon  iiir, 
antl  (tuch  i'lirtf  im  llio  wil'lt>niosH  uIVohIm;  l»nf.  low  will  iit- 
(ompi  llio  ronio  tor  ploiisnro,  muil  llio  inhMubul  iinprovo- 
inonls  sliull  hnvo  boon  ininlo. 

Tin*  (lisliinoos  ol  llio  piinoipiil  pliicoK  <vn  iho  roulim 
iVoiu  I'ortliinil  art<  as  follows: 

UoHtrx  Jvom  l'i>rfl(iii(l.  To  Boston,  soo  pi  ^o  "015.  'r<t 
tluMVhilo  Hills  ainl  ( 'oiidotiicnl.  river,  by  t'aily  stni;o- 
roiu'hos,  Woslbniok,  (loihtiin,  Sliindisli,  UaMwin,  llinini, 
Urownsiiold,  l''ryoliiir;;b,  Conway,  (iVoni  I'orlliind  (Vi  ni,) 
Ibirtlott,  Hurl's  Lonilion,  Old  Cruwl'ord's  Nololi  lloiiso, 
Notolt,  Notch  MiMidow,  V,.  A.  C'rawlbrd's.  'riionco  two 
roiidi* ;  ono  t«i  ljni)oustor,  and  iho  ol'nor  ihronijh  NiimIi  and 
Suwyor'.s  Location,  by  Uosobrook'w,  in  Hritt(ni  Woods, 
und  thnnigh  Liltlolon  (.o  ilolhUihoni,  4H  luiloH  fnnn  (/'oii- 
wiiy. 

From  Portliuid  to  Qnoboc,  Hoi?  milos.  N.  Yarinonth, 
12;  FiW])ort,  (i ;  lhiinswi(dv,  i) ;  Ibiwdoinhnm,  lU;  (Jard* 
nor,  11;  Ilullowoll,  4;  Aiii-nsla,  H  ;  Sidiioy,  1'2',  Uiitor- 
villo,  5;  Notridijinvoi'lv,  1(5;  ..Jolon,  'JO;  Mok<-ovv,  IU; 
Konnoboc  rivor,  17  ;  Monumol,  48  ;  St.  .losoph,  T)! ;  St. 
Homy,  28 ;  (iiioboo,  12. 

From  IVn-lland  to  Kiisiport,  2lU  miles.  T^rnnswick, 
(as  ubovo,)  27  :  Uuth,  7;  Wiscas.sot,  IT);  VValdoboroujrh, 
18  ;  Warron, !) ;  Tliomuston,  4;  (■amdon,  1 1  ;  Holi'ast,  \H  } 
Castillo,  (in  a  boat,)  !);    iMiiuhiil,    10;  KUswuith,   14; 


U-f. 


HOIITKrt    IN    MAIKR, 


li'iUHwIrkf 

profor  ihff 

U. 

I  will  wirtli 

iVO   will    III) 

>r(M'(»t«(liii^ 

ll'iMlgll   U|)t 

rnridri  liiivtt 
Kt'iitiolioCt 
crn  iirii  no 

II  ('uiiiiiin- 
yniiM,  mill 
mill.      'l'\\n 

lin  willing;; 

opiMt  iiir, 

nv  will  lit,- 


Uti 


iiiipn»v(! 


(ho   nniUm 

'J  0:5.  To 
lily  Htiijfd- 
ill,  I  liniiii, 
iiul  r»'2  Ml,) 
i(-li  lltniHr, 
liciicii   two 

I  NiihIi  Hiut 

II  Woods, 
from  (/'oii- 

Yiinnoiitli, 
lU  ;  (iiinl" 
2 ;  Wiitoi- 
icovv,  in ; 
Ai,  :)l ;  Si. 

ininsvvick, 
lohoroujrli, 
ollust,  i){j 
/urlli,   14} 


TniyHI.M^  miunl   fo  .In,    IhmmI  of  Cn^m    Uny,  yoi,  ,„,,. 
"oMKl.    N0.1I1    Viinno,.,!.   Mini     Fn-Kpor.,    iiimI  ,,n  T,; 
.•MnHvvu.K,    13,;  mi,...      Tl.iH  in    ,|.o  hi'o  oV   ilovv      i       ;, 
%•;.  llin  piiiinpMl  ii.H(it„iinn  of  ,1,0  HM.rn 

I  ''••••<"H  n    .ll  MM  tl,„  A,i.lroM,o;;.n„   nvor  „,,  fj.in  ,,1,,.,,. 
o  V  wlM..|.  1,00,,..  run  ox...n,|..,l  iumohh  to   k....p  ..^    | 
;l;o  1.........  wh...  .  1,^^ 

;ni.«  wl.ol.,   romi   froM,    l»o,MaMi    .0    H.uli,    fl.ir.y.roiir 

;;;:';:-' ' ''"'"f  ^i-  --,  wi.,....,  um  noii  i^^ZZ 

Mati,   iH  11  rovv,ior,:o„Hi.l..n.Mn  fm.j,.,  HJfuatnd   „„  rl.o 
Y«..moIm.,,  «r  ,1,0  ,,i„„„,„  .,,.  ,i^,„„„  '     •' 

Iw;:;:!;''^''^"' '•'••^'^'^ '-'^^^ 

Woolwich  h  opposltn  Dmi,, 

W,«(M..«KT,   I-J  n.ili.H   fVoii,   H,u|,.     This  iNormof  th„ 
I  niinpid  po,.,.  o     ,1...  K,.ri.   nnd   Ii.m  an  ox...|lo«    I.     !.  i^^ 

SM,i^,.,.o,u,|,.,M  nil,  nor.1,  to  Unufrnr,  on  M,„  Po„oJ,Hrot. 
y   p.p  ,l.roi„|.  N,.v.,„„..    NoMohon.,.,1,   Wuldol..: 
...  «li.  I  ...0,1    App|,.,„„,  SnirHUio,,!.  ,„.d  Hrhoont.    Tlioro 
nrn  two  Lmnrl.  lin-s  :  0,10  to  TIioimiihIowm  UtoukIi  W  r 

Hi.    o,  Nor  |,,M,rt,  M..|(„H,,  Swanviilo,  ,.,id  Fnu.kCort. 

'I'm   WNr.MHH.,.  to    l).in,aK,:ott..    is  roi,«h  and    n.rky ; 

HHM      L       \^""";r'  T'""^  '"r"''-.!...,.  viowH,  UH  i),o  land^ 

Vn         '""^  <^l;Hn«.,..^   ,u.d  is   ofion  vari.-d  hy  tim 

«l.t   of   l)H,na«cotta   Itivrr,   ,uul  Hovrrul    iM-aiUiful    littlo 

Jukos  or  ponds. 

llooTM  Ha  V  licH  oir  ,1,0  road  (Voni  Wiscas^.a  to  Dauui- 

iT  i  '','"'"•"■'■""""•""•»""'  '""••'<••"•.  «'itf.  a  number  of 

H  H,„  s  in  tl.o  v.rni.iy  ;  a,,.!  iho  ..dwhl.onrinf,' liiKh  ground 

Jls  a  vi.ry  fino  ami  nxtonsiv.  vir,w.     Tho  hill,'.„  tho 

^^  H  <M-n    M.do  o    tho  Lay,   was  Hurvc-yi.d  for  a  city  in  tho 

ly  part  of  (l.o  last  r.-ntury,   which  was  to  linvo  horno 

hZuTr!    /"7"«^"''l-  l.'it  tho  huildin.r  of  it  was  ncv.r 

"ipon.      I  ho  harbour  has  boon  conHidtirod  a  good  site  for 

a  naval  doj)ot. 

Antiquitiet.     Two  or  ihrc-n  miles  off  tho  road,  between 

19 


% 


\  t'il 


212 


WALDOBOROUOH. 


Linniken's  Bay  and  Damascotta  Rivef)  where  was  for* 
merly  an  Indian  carrying  place,  the  remains  of  cellar 
walls  and  chimneys  are  found,  as  also  broken  kettles, 
wedges,  &c.  At  the  head  of  the  bay  are  the  hulks  of 
two  or  three  large  vessels  sunk  in  the  water ;  and  on  the 
shore,  the  ruins  of  an  old  grist  mill,  where  the  present 
one  stands.  On  the  islands  opposite  the  town,  are  other 
ruins,  the  history  of  which  is  unknown,  as  ell  as  that  of 
those  already  mentioned.  The  only  fact  which  seems  to 
afford  any  guide  to  their  origin,  is)  that  Sir  John  Popham 
made  an  attempt  to  build  a  town  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ken- 
nebec, in  the  year  1607. 

Waldoborough,  10  miles;  Warren,  7  miles;  Thomas- 
town,  Central  Village,  6  miles.  Here  are  quarries  of 
marble  and  limestone,  from  the  latter  of  which  about 
100,000  barrels  of  lime  are  made  every  year  for  exporta- 
tion. The  marble  is  also  wrought  in  considerable  quanti- 
ties. A  visit  to  the  workshops  may  be  interesting,  as  the 
operation  of  polishing  is  performed  by  machinery  moved 
by  water.  There  is  a  cotton  manufactory  on  Mill  River. 
The  village  is  fifteen  miles  from  the  sea. 

The  State  Prison  stands  in  a  commanding  and  plea- 
sant situation.  It  has  solitary  cells,  built  of  granite,  in 
blocks  from  four  to  six  feet  in  length,  and  two  in  thick- 
ness. Each  cell  has  an  opening  at  the  top,  with  small 
holes  in  the  walls  for  the  admission  of  fresh  air,  which, 
during  the  winter  season,  is  warmed  before  it  is  adniitted. 
The  warden's  house  is  also  built  of  granite,  and  is  two 
stories  high,  placed  in  the  middle,  with  a  row  of  cells  on 
each  side.  The  prison  yard  is  surrounded  by  a  circular 
wooden  paling,  and  encloses  neairly  three  acres,  in  which 
is  a  lime  quarry.  Several  workshops  on  the  ground  serve 
the  purposes  of  the  convicts,  who  are  employed  in  burning 
lime  and  other  manufactures. 

The  Knox  Estate.  About  half  a  mile  from  the  State 
Prison  is  the  ancient  residence  of  the  late  General  Knox. 

From  Thomastown  to  Belfast,  (thirty  miles,^  the  road 
is  hard,  and  commands  many  views  of  Penobscot  Bays 
with  a  few  islands  on  the  right,  and  a  partially  cultivated 
country  on  the  left,  with  some  mountainous  scenes.  Bel- 
fast is  a  flourishing  port,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  side 
of  a  hill.     The  road  hence  to  Castine,  rtmnd  the  bay,  is 


B  was  for* 
s  of  cellar 
en  kettles, 
16  hulks  of 
and  on  the 
he  present 
1,  are  other 
1  as  that  of 
h  seems  to 
m  Popham 
of  the  Ken- 

i ;  Thomas- 
[juarries  of 
hich  about 
ibr  exporta- 
ible  quanti* 
ting,  as  the 
lery  moved 
Mill  River. 

^  and  plea- 
granite,  in 
vo  in  thick- 
with  small 
air,  which, 
is  admitted, 
and  is  two 
f  of  cells  on 
ty  a  circular 
>s,  in  which 
round  serve 
d  in  burning 

m  the  State 
eral  Knox. 
i,)  the  road 
obscot  BaVi 
ly  cultivated 
;enes.  Bel- 
on  the  side 
I  the  bay,  is 


ROUTX    IN    MA  IRK. 


S13 


thirty.five  miles,  passing   through    Prospect,    Buckport, 
Orland  and  Penobscot.  *^ 

Castine  was  taken  during  the  late  war  by  a  fleet,  and 
the  British  inirenchmen^s  are  to  be  seen  on  the  hill 
above. 

Eastport  is  important  as  the  frontier  post  of  the  Unit- 
ed btates  on  the  sea  coast  towards  the  British  possessions. 
It  13  on  the  southeastern  part  of  Moose  Island,  in  Passa- 
maquoddy  Bay,  and  connected  with  the  main  land  by  a 
bridge.  The  spot  was  almost  uninhabited  thirty  years 
ago  ,•  but  now  it  cor.ains  three  places  of  worship.  There 
are  fortifications  and  a  few  troops.  A  line  of  steamboats 
18  established  between  this  place  and  Boston,  touching  at 
Portland,  &c.  ^ 

Lubec  is  situated  near  the  entrance  of  the  Bay,  opposite 
Campobello.  ^^ 

Perri/,  the  village  of  the  Passamaquoddy  Indians,  lies 
northward  from  Eastport 

On  the  Schoodic  River  the  land  is  high,  and  the  scenes 
striking.  Robbinston  stands  at  its  mouth;  and  Calais 
twelve  miles  above,  at  the  head  of  navigation.  The  coun- 
try north  and  west  of  this  place  is  said  to  be  very  valuable 
tor  grazing,  being  undulating,  with  a  good  soil  and  climate, 
and  at  present  well  wooded,  with  conveniences  for  trans- 
portation by  sea. 

The  road  from  Belfast  to  Bangor  lies  along  the  course 
ot  the  Penobscot  River. 

Bangor  is  a  very  flourishing  village,  newly  risen  into 
importance,  in  consequence  of  having  taken  a  good  deal  of 
the  interior  trade  from  Belfast.  It  occupies  a  command- 
ing position  for  this  object,  and  is  undoubtedly  destined 
to  experience  a  great  and  rapid  increase,  proportioned  to 
the  extension  of  settlements  in  the  upper  country.  The 
scenery  here  begins  to  assume  much  of  that  mountain- 
ous character,  which  prevails  so  ectensively  through  a 
large  part  of  the  interior.  A  very  conspicuous  and  noble 
eminence  is  observed  at  a  distance  in  the  north,  called 
Ktardin  Mountain,  the  elevation  of  which  has  never,  it 
18  believed,  been  accurately  ascertained.  It  is  considered 
the  highest  land  in  the  state,  and  has  been  compared  for 
altitude  with  Mount  Washington  in  New-Hampshire. 

In  the  year  1825,  the  land  agents  visited  a  tract  of 


I 

k 


814 


PEGIPSCOT   FALLS. 


country  inhabited  by  about  two  thousand  persons,  who 
had  been  before  unknown  as  belonging  to  the  state,  hav- 
ing never  been  represented  in  the  legislature,  or  included 
in  any  census.  They  are  partly  descendants  of  refugees, 
and  partly  half-pay  officers,  Irish  and  Scotch.  The  vast 
tract  of  wilderness  intervening  between  them  and  the 
lower  country  had  prevented  intercourse.  Their  country 
is  rich  and  beautiful,  on  the  St.  John's  River,  near  the 
boundary  of  New  Brunswick  ;  and  many  of  them  desired 
to  be  received  into  the  jurisdiction  of  the  State  Govern- 
ment. The  question  has  since  caused  much  excite- 
ment. 

From  Bangor  we  begin  our  return  to  Portland,  taking 
the  route  through  the  finest  part  of  the  state  of  Maine. 
The  road  to  Augusta  and  Hallowell  on  the  Kennebec, 
lies  through  a  region  rapidly  improving  under  the  ma- 
nagement of  an  active,  industrious,  and  increasing  popu- 
lation. 

Augusta  is  the  capital  of  the  state,  a  considerable  town, 
and  very  flourishing.  It  is  situated  at  the  falls  of  the 
Kennebec,  where  the  water  on  the  descent  of  the  channel 
U  sufficient  to  set  in  motion  several  hundred  wheels. 

At  the  mouth  of  this  river,  at  Georgetown,  beryls 
have  been  found,  in  a  ridge  of  granite  country.  Some 
are  fifteen  inches  long  and  six  thick.  They  are  associ- 
ated with  schorl. 

Pegipscot  Falb,  Near  Lewistq^n,  on  the  Andros- 
coggin River,  is  a  remarkable^gcati^ct,  where  the  cur- 
rent breaks  through  a  range  of  mountains,  and  pours 
over  a  broken  ledge  of  rocks.  The  scene  is  wild  and 
striking,  and  derives  an  additional  interest,  from  its  con- 
nexion with  the  history  of  a  tribe  of  Indians  long  since 
extinct. 

According  to  a  tradition  current  in  the  neighbourhood, 
the  upper  parts  of  this  stream  were  formerly  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Rockmego  Indians,  who  inhabited  a  fine 
and  fertile  plain  through  which  the  river  winds.  The 
situation  was  remote,  and  they  had  never  engaged  in 
any  hoBtilities  with  the  whites,  but  devoted  themselves 
to  hunting  and  fishing.  The  ground  still  contains  many 
remains  of  their  weapons,  utensils,  &c.  They  were, 
however,  ut  length  persuaded  to  engage  in  a  hostile  in- 


WASHINGTOW,   I).    C. 


215 


Jons,  who 

itate,  hav- 

r  included 

refugees, 

The  vast 

1  and  the 

ir  country 

near  the 

m  desired 

B  Govern- 

;h  excite- 

nd,  taking 
of  Maine. 
Kennebec, 
•  the  ma- 
jing  popu- 

able  town, 
ills  of  the 
le  channel 
leels. 
vn,  beryls 
y.  Some 
ire  associ- 

e  Andros- 
i  the  cur- 
ind  pours 
wild  and 
n  its  con- 
lonef  since 

ibourhood, 
r  the  resi- 
ted  a  fine 
ids.  The 
ngaged  in 
hemselves 
ains  many 
bey  were, 
hostile  in- 


curs  ion  against  Brunswick,  at  that  time  an  exposed 
frontier  settlement;  and  the  whole  tribe  embarkeTin 
the,r  canoes  to   accomplish  the  enterprise.     The  stream 

leZ\!TLl  f'^r'TJ'^'^^^^^^^^  itapproaXs 
the^niX  ^^"'  '  ^'^  '^''  ^^^  ^he  spot  appo  nted  for 

Ind  tit  '"7^^™""^  ^''^^'  '''  ^"  ^^^"'•^  ^J^^ir  arrival ; 
banks  a^nlp  T  ""'l  ^'^'"""^^  ^"  "^^^^  ^'^^  ^P^a  the 
reason  tl  ^  ^^^  '^^  r^*^"''  ^'"^  «°™«  ""known 
Ind r;  K  •  "'r^'".  ^''''^^'^  ^"'«^  '^^  f^"«;  a"dthe 
d?d  not  bHn"'^       I'  '^  concerning  their  situation, 

dJcl  not  bring  up  their  canoes  to  the  shore  in  season   and 

TgX""'"^^^^''^  ''''^'^'  ^"'^^^^  tribe  "a^dSo^^d 
We  now  close  the  northern  tours,  and  proceed  to 

WASHLNGTON,  D.  C. 

Sf.^t'"'"''-^"'''  !^u  '"'''  °^  Government  of  the  United 
fal  '  I'  "'Ti  ^"'"'"""  ^he    Potomac  River  and  S 
eastern  branch,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  above  their  June- 
tion.     It  ,g   divided  into  three  distinct  parts,  which  arP 
bu.  t  about  the  Navy  Y.rd,  the  Capital  HUl,   and   t^ 
Pennsylvania  Avenue.     The  Capitol  is  an  imm^ise  bu  Id- 
ing  with  two  wings,   surrounded  by   an    open   piece   of 
ground,   terraced  in  front,  and  occupying   an  eFevadon 
wh.cn  renders  it  a  conspicuous  object  for  several  miles     ' 
Ihe  original  plan  of  the  city  was  very  extensive-  the 
principal  streets  meeting  fro  Jail  pointa'of  tL'compls: 
at  the  Capitol,  and  beanng  the  names  of  the  older  states 
of  the  un.on      Some  of  the  minor  streets  are  known  by 
the  names  of  the  letters  of  the  Alphabet;  and  tracts  of 
pound  were  reserved  for  public  squares.     As  Washing, 
ton,    however,    is    chiefly  dependent  on  the  government 
for  Its  support,  the  original  scheme  has  been   but  faintly 

opened  '"''"^  '^'"^^*'    ^'"'"'^   ""**  '=''^"  ^^<^" 

firing  the  sessions  of  Congress,  the  place  is  thronged 
v/.th  strangeYs  from  all  parts  of  the  country;  and  theses- 
^^.ong  ot  tho  Senate  and  Representatives,  the  proceedings  of 
he  Supreme  Court,  the  Levees  at  the  President's  House, 
the  parties  at  the  foreign  ministers',  &c.  afford  ample  op' 
poitumties  for  amusements  of  various  kinds.    At  other 

19* 


Ui, 


^' 


216 


THE    DEPARTMENTS. 


.  •■  m  I 


seasons,  howevor,  there  is  little  to  interest  the  tha  stranger 
except  the  public  buildings  nnd  the  Navy  Yard. 

The  Capitol  presents  specimens  of  various  styles  of 
architecture.  On  entering  the  south  wing  several  columns 
are  seen,  whore  carvings  of  Indian-corn  stalks  are  substi- 
tuted for  flutings  and  fiUeiings ;  while  the  capitals  are 
made  of  the  ears  of  corn  half  stripped,  and  disposed  so  as 
in  some  degree  to  resemble  the  Corinthian  or  Composite 
order. 

The  Representatives^  Chamber  is  a  fine  semi-circu- 
lar apartment,  with  columns  of  a  dark  b'uish  siliceous 
pudding  stone,  hard  and  highly  polished.  It  is  lighted 
from  above.  The  gallery  is  open  during  the  debates,  as 
•well  as  the  Senate  Chamber,  which  is  a  much  smaller 
apartment. 

The  Library  of  Congress  is  in  another  part  of  the 
building ;  and  the  Great  Hall  contains  the  four  national 
pictures,  painted  for  the  government  by  Col.  Tr.mbuU : 
the  Declaration  of  Independence,  the  Surrender  at  Sara- 
toga and  Yorktown,  and  Washington  resigning  his  Com- 
mission ;  each  12  feet  by  18. 

A  line  view  is  enjoyed  from  the  top  of  the  Capitol.  You 
look  along  the  Pennsylvania  Avenue  westward  to  the 
President's  House,  with  Georgetown  and  the  Potomac 
beyond;  the  General  Post  Office,  &c.  on  the  right;  the 
Navy- Yard  towards  the  southeast ;  Greenleaf's  Point 
nearly  south ;  and  southwest  the  bridge  over  the  Poto- 
mac, with  the  road  to  Alexandria  and  Mount  Vernon. 
The  canal  begins  south  of  the  President's  House,  and 
terminates  at  the  East  Branch. 

The ,  President's  House  is  a  large  building  of  white 
marble,  with  Grecian  fronts,  about  a  mile  west  of  the 
Capitol,  and  near  the  public  offices.  It  is  surrounded  by  a 
wall,  but  without  any  other  defence.  The  ontram-e  hall 
leads  into  the  drawing  room.,  where  the  President's  lady 
receives  visiters  at  her  levees.  Two  other  apartments  are 
thrown  open  on  those  occasions  ;  all  ha-dsomely  furnished , 
and  freely  accessible,  even  to  strangers. 

The  Paierd  Office  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  on  account 
of  the  numerous  curious  models  which  it  contains,  relating 
to  all  branches  of  the  arts. 

The  Treasury,  Navy,  War,  and  Land  Offices,  are  all  \\\ 


GEOROETOWir. 


217 


1 3  stranger 

3  styles  of 
al  columns 
are  substi- 
apitals  are 
osed  so  as 
Composite 

jemi-circu- 
:i  siliceous 
is  lighted 
lebates,  as 
ch  smaller 

irt  of  the 
ur  national 
Tr.mbuU : 
iv  at  Sara- 
j  his  Com- 

pitol.  You 
ird  to  the 
le  Potomac 
right;  the 
eaf's  Point 
•  the  Poto- 
int  Vernon. 
House,  and 

g  of  white 
'est  of  the 
mnded  by  a 
itrani-e  hall 
dent's  lady 
rtments  are 
y  furnished, 

on  account 
ins,  relating 

s,  are  all  in 


I'hc  vicinity  of  the  President's  House ;  as  are  tlio  resi* 
viences  of  the  Foreign  Mini^terd.  The  members  of  Con- 
p:ro3>3,  as  well  as  the  numerous  strangers  who  resort  hither 
during  the  sessions,  find  lodgings  in  the  hotels  and  board- 
ing houses  in  different  parts  of  tlio  city,  or  in  Georgetown. 
Ctkorqktovvn  is  a  considerable  place,  which  by  its 
proximity  to  Washington,  seems  almost  a  part  of  that  city. 
The  country  around  it  is  variegated,  and  the  situation  of 
the  Romish  College,  a  little  way  west,  is  picturesque. 
Still  further  in  the  same  direction,  there  is  a  very  pleasant 
ride  along  the  bank  of  the  Potomac,  where  Mason's  Island 
is  at  first  seen,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  afterwards 
the  Nunnery  upon  the  elevated  banks. 

Whoever  would  understand  convents  should  travel  in 
Europe.  This  institution  flourishes  in  consequence  of  the 
ignorance  of  many  of  our  countrymen,  with  respect  to 
the  nature  of  convents,  their  over-estimation  of  certain 
branches,  and  their  light  esteem  for  the  principles  and 
blessings  of  the  Reformation.  Accompanying  those  are  tho 
proselyting  spririt  of  the  Jesuits,  and  the  secret  designs 
of  the  popes  against  the  freedom  of  the  United  States, 
so  actively  seconded  by  the  government  of  Austria. 

Some  of  the  advocates  of  convents  have  professed  to 
court  public  attention  and  investigation  for  them.  It 
would  be  well.  We  should  find  in  them  some  of  the 
images  and  pictures  which  are  pubHcly  worshipped  in 
Romish  countries. 

It  is  pretended  that  the  education  they  afford,  especially 
to  females,  k  superi  t  to  any  which  American  Protestants 
can  give.  Let  its  superiority  then  be  thoroughly  known  ; 
and,  let  laws  be  passed,  opening  all  schools,  without  dis 
tinction,  to  the  thorough  inspection  of  public  officers  at 
their  pleasure.  Let  Congress,  or  any  State  Legislature 
or  the  people  of  any  town  where  a  conventual  school  exists, 
set  the  example ;  and  it  will  probably  become  general. 
Then  if  the  advantages  are  so  great,  let  the  system  be  uni- 
versally adopted,  even  in  our  common  schools;  and,  if 
necessary  import  from  fifty  to  a  hundred  thousand  fo- 
reign teachers.  Friars,  and  nur.s,  black,  white  and  gray, 
might  be  obtained  from  Spain,  and  Jesuits  in  any  numbers 
might  be  found  lurking  in  secret,  and  under  various  names 
in  many  a  corner,  since  they  have  been  expelled  with  de- 


S18 


MOUNT    rERMOW. 


m 


j.'.m 


testatian  from  alin().st  ovcry  country  in  the  tvoild  except 
tiio  United  Stales.  Oiio  of  the  most  distinguished  and 
virtuous  atatosincn  of  Colombia,  on  a  visit  to  this  country 
oxclHimpd  with  aatonishtnent,  wiien  ho  hoard  that  the  edu- 
cation of  any  of  our  youth  was  committed  to  Jesuits,  •'  Do 
you  not  know  that  they  are  the  bitterest  enemies  of  human 
liberty  7  Thi^y  are  not  tolerated  in  South  America,  nor  even 
in  Spain."  This  and  the  following  memorable  remark  should 
be  written  on  the  door  of  every  convent :  "If  the  liberties 
of  the  United  Stales  are  ever  overthrown,  it  will  be  by 
Jesuit  priests."— ■Lo/a^t'/^e. 

Alexandria.  This  is  a  large  city  and  port,  six  miles 
from  VVashingron,  and  contains  some  fine  buildings,  both 
public  and  private.  Tho  road  which  leads  to  it  is  good, 
in  the  pleasant  season,  although  tho  country  is  little  inha- 
bited, and  the  soil  is  impoverished  by  the  cultivation  of 
tobacco.     This  city  is  in  tho  District  of  Columbia. 

Mount  Veunon,  the  estate  of  the  Washington  family, 
is  nine  miles  south  from  Alexandria,  and  is  remarkable  as 
containing  the  tomb  of  Gen.  Washington.  Tho  road  is 
somewhat  intricate,  and  has  but  few  inhubitants  ;  so  that 
tlie  stranger  unless  he  goes  in  a  steamboat,  will  need  to 
make  careful  inquiries.  The  house  stands  on  an  emi- 
nence, looking  down  upon  the  rotomac.  The  buildings 
>yhich  project  from  each  end,  are  the  offices  and  habita- 
tions of  the  negroes. 

The  key  of  the  Pastile  of  Paris  is  hung  up  in  the  hall ; 
and  a  miniature  portrait  of  Washington,  from  an  earthen 
pitcher,  is  preserved,  which  is  considered  by  the  family 
th'j  best  likeness  of  him  ever  made.  A  beautiful  lawn, 
partly  shaded  by  trees,  extends  from  the  front  of  the  man- 
sion to  the  verge  of  the  precipice,  which  overhangs  the  Po- 
tomac, and  affords  a  delightful  view  upon  the  river  and  a 
tract  of  hilly  country  above  and  below. 

This  is  the  place  to  which  Washington  r  tired  after  he 
had  accomplished  the  independence  of  his  country,  and 
again  when  he  had  presided  at  the  consolidation  of  the 
government;  voluntarily  resigning  the  stations  he  had 
consented  to  accept,  and  the  power  he  had  exercised  only 
for  the  good  of  his  country.  To  an  American,  this  place 
is  interesting,  in  a  degree  which  no  language  can  either 
heighten  or  describe.     Whoever  apprcv-iates  the  value  of 


ill 


nOUTK   TO    VIRGINIA    SPRINGS. 


219 


•Id  except 
ished  and 
lis  country 
It  the  edu- 
uit8,  ••  Do 
of  human 
L,  nor  even 
ark  should 

0  liberties 
all  be  by 

six  miles 
ings,  both 
,  is  good, 
itlle  inha- 
tivation  of 
a. 

on  family, 

ark  able  as 

10  road  is 

;  so  that 

1  need  to 
1  an  emi- 

buildings 
nd  habita< 

1  the  hall ; 
n  earthen 
he  family 
iful  lawn, 
f  the  man- 
gs  the  Po- 
iver  and  a 

d  after  he 
intry,  and 
on  of  the 
s  he  had 
ciaed  only 
this  place 
:an  either 
}  value  of 


rnva  0  and  social  virtue,  will  rojoice  to  find  it  associated 
wi  h  the  traits  ot  a  personage  so  diHtingiiished  and  ind.ion- 
iml ;  the  consistent  politician  will  rejoice  toreflect  llmt  hU 
pnnc.plosol  natural  freedom  were  not  restricted  to  any 
portion  of  the  world,  or  any  part  of  the  human  race;  while 
»^ny  ono,  who  can  duly  estimale  the  exKw.t  of  the  blessings 
he  has  conferred  on  his  country,  and  the  ianu,3nco  of  his 
act  ons  on  the  haj.piness  of  the  w(»rld,  will  wish  that  his 
^ustory  may  ever  be  cherished,  as  a  model  of  sincere  and 
disinterested  patriotism. 

IVashingion^s  Tomb  was  until  lately  in  a  little  ffrovo  of 
near?!  % ^'"'^^^If  ^^'^  -"thward  fim  the  hofsra-1 
near  tho  brow  of  the  precipitous  shoro.  It  is  now  at  a 
orZo  1  T?  ""  ^J'f^^«P"t-  a  new  family  tomb  having  been 
erected.      The  great  man,  who  had  rendered  to  his  country 

.iLT   H"''^"'  "".''''""y  ^"^'  "'^'^  ''''''^^^^  «!'«  «ver  re- 
ceivcd,  left  his  mortal   remains   to  be   deposited   in    this 

umble  cemetery ;  and  that  country  has  never  yet  expressed 

.o.fl  ;  1  ^^  r'''''''"^,  ^  '"«""f"^"t  to  his  memory, 
though  to  hor  he  devoted  his  life,  and  to  her  ho  has  be- 
queathed a  character,  on  which  no  successful  attempt  has 
ever  yet  been  made  to  discover  a  shadow  or  to  fix  a  stain. 

Suf^S256tX  "^"^  ''""^^  '"'  "'"'  '^''''' 
These  are  now  annually  visited  by  many  persons  from 
tne  north,  as  well  as  Irom  other  parts  of  the  country ;  and 
the  variety  of  scenery  recommends  them  to  the  attention 
of  every  traveller  of  taste,  no  less  than  their  medicinal 
properties  to  the  invalid. 

From  Washington  stagecoaches  depart  daily,  passin^r 
hrough  Alexandria  9  miles.  Fairfax  Court-house  15 
Cemrevllle  8  Bull  Run  3,  Buckland  Mills  11,  New- 
fJaltimore  4  Warrenton  6,  Lee's  Sulphur  Sprina  6,  Jef- 
ferson  3  Fairfax  12,  Cedar  Mountain  6.  Rapidan  6, 
Orange  Court-house  7,*  Gordonsville  8,  Monticello  16, 
Charlottesville  3,  t  York    19,   Waynesboro'   G,  Staunton 

nk*o^°"H' a''  /''^  TJ  "5  ^•:««i'l«"t  Madison,  i,  5  mile,  from  this 
wLJi  ^<'t^ral  Bridge  i»  i„  Rockbridge  county.  12  miles  S. 
W.  from  Lexington     It  i»  about  200  feet  liipli. 

iion   lurnJit^rl^^''  ''.•''."  ^'"/^"'■''ity  founded  by  Thomas  Jeffer- 


1 


S20 


DAI.TIMOKE. 


i, 


..?! 


i 


12,  Jennings'  North  Mountain  17,  Clovcrdalo  12,  Green 
Valley  II,  Warm  Springs  13,  Hot  Springs  5,  Jackson 
River  y.  While  Sulphur  Springs  U9,  Sweet  Sulphur,  do. 
28,  Salt  Sulphur,  do.  1.  (Distance  from  Washington 
285nulcB.) 

Ualtimorr  is  tho  third  city,  for  size,  in  the  United 
StiilcH,  nnd  carries  on  an  extensive  coinincrco. 

'I'ho  harbour  in  tho  Patapsco  River,  has  a  narrow  en- 
trance, and  is  well  protected  by  high  ground.  On  the 
side  o|)po8ite  the  city  is  an  abrupt  elevation  of  consider- 
able size,  where  is  a  fort,  and  whence  a  commanding  view 
18  enjoyed. 

FcU^s  Point  is  a  part  of  tho  city,  about  a  mile  below, 
where  most  of  the  stores  and  shipping  are  found.  Many 
of-the  streets  of  Ualtimore  are  broad,  cross  at  right  angles, 
and  are  ornarnentod  with  fuio  buildings  both  public  and 
private. 

Tho  Washington  Monument.  This  is  a  large  column 
of  rnarblo  in  a  commanding  position,  at  the  head  of 
Charlesaireot,  rising  to  the  height  of  103  feet.  It  is  14 
feet  m  diameter  at  the  top,  and  20  below,  with  a  base  23 
feet  in  height,  and  50  square.  It  is  one  of  tho  finest  mo- 
numents in  the  United  States,  and  tho  only  ono  worthy 
the  memory  of  tho  great  man  to  whom  it  is  erected. 

The  Battle  Monument  was  recently  erected,  in  memory 
of  those  who  fell  in  tho  defence  of  the  city  in  Septem- 
ber, 1814. 

The  Vxiblic  Fountain  is  a  fine  spring  of  water  in  tho 
western  part  of  the  city,  surrounded  by  a  public  square, 
laid  out  in  walks  and  shaded  with  trees. 

Tho  environs  of  Baltimore  afford  some  pleasant  rides ; 
and  the  communication  with  dilferent  places  is  easy,  by 
various  modes  of  conveyance.  Steamboats  go  to  Nor- 
folk, in  Viiginia,  but  the  passage  is  uninteresting;  and 
those  who  wish  to  see  Washington,  (38  miles  distant,) 
will  go  by  the  railroad. 

Battle  of  Baltimore.  This  battle  took  place  at  Long 
Point,  in  September,  1814.  Nearly  40  sail  of  British 
vessels  at  the  mouth  of  the  Patapsco,  on  the  12lh  landed 
between  7000  and  8000  men  on  Long  Point,  14  miles 
from  the  city.     Sixteen  bomb  vessels  in  the  mean  time 


ROUTCII  To  OHIO. 


221 


12,  Green 
5,  Jackson 
]||)hur,  do. 
Washington 

he  United 

narrow  en- 
I.  On  ihe 
f  considor- 
ndingviow 

lilo  bnlow, 
nd.  Many 
ight  angles, 
public  and 

rge  column 
10  head  of 
.  It  is  14 
h  a  base  23 
1  finest  mo  - 
ono  worthy 
ectcd. 
in  memory 
in  Septem- 

ater  in  the 
3lic  square, 

isant  rides ; 
is  easy,  by 
go  to  Nor- 
esting;  and 
ies  distant,) 

ice  at  Long 

of  British 

I2th  landed 

it,  14  miles 

mean  time 


wotjt  up  the  nvor,  and  anchored  about  2^  tnilos  from  Fort 
Mc  loury.  (ienoral  Strieker  look  poNiiiori  at  the  two 
roads  leadmg  to  North  Point,  his  ri«hi  on  JJcar  (Jrork 
and  his  left  on  a  marsh.  The  cMiemy  joiticd  in  a  gonoral 
battle.  After  an  hour  ami  twenty  ininiiles  tho  filst  nini- 
ment  gave  way,  and  (Jfnoral  Strieker  retired  to  hin  ro- 
f/,''"'  ,V''^.'^''°J'*'«  «"0'"y  did  not  follow.  Ho  lost  about 
loo  killed  and  wounded  in  this  action,  in  which  the  citi- 
zens of  Uallimoro  dislmguiHhed  theinswlveH.  The  Hritinh 
was  computed  at  60()  or  700  ;  and  amoiur  thorn  wu»  their 
cotnmandor,  Gen.  Rohb, 

Tho  bomb  vessels  which  attacked  Fort  McHenry  were 
unsuccessful,  being  met  with  a  manly  resiHtunce;  nud  tho 
troops  re-embarked  and  rcliinjuished  the  enternri.so 

JJaltimoro  had  101,378  inhabitants  in  1840.     The  bar 
bour  has  18  feet  wator.   Fort  McMenry  I^  miles  below,  at 
the  mouth  of  Palapsco  river,  was  bombarded  by  tho  Ijri- 
tish  in  1814. 

Washington  Monument  is  103  feet,  with  a  colossal 
statue. 

Ellicotl's  Mills  13  miles,  is  a  romantic  spot.  Tho  rail- 
road crosses  a  lino  viaduct;  and  there  aro  many  stone 
lactones  and  mills  for  cotton,  woollen,  flour,  iron,<tc.  &c 

The  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad,  in  u^e  to  Harper's 
Ferry,  81  miles,  runs  southwest  to  i'atapsco  river,  at  Flk- 
ridge  Landing,  up  that  stream,  down  Hush  Creek,  and 
the  Monocacy,  up  the  Potomac  to  Harper's  Ferry  It  is 
partly  finished  to  Wheeling,  280  miles  from  Daltimoro 
1  he  summit  is  2500  feet  above  tide.  A  branch  3A  miles 
long,  leads  to  Frederick  town. 

The  Washingfon  Railroad  is  a  branch  of  the  Baltimore 
and  Ohio  railroad,  leaving  it  8  miles  from  Baltimore,  and 
has  a  very  long  and  lofty  embankment  and  a  fine  viaduct 
It  leads  through  Bladensbwrg,  and  ends  in  Pennsylvania 
Ayenue,  i  mile  from  the  Capitol,  in  Washington.  It 
meets,  18  miles  from  Baltimore  with 

The  Annapolis  and  Elkridge  Ilailroad,  20  miles,  which 
leads  BOutheaGt  to  Annapolis. 

OHIO. 
This  new  and  flourishing  state  will  be  visited  by  tra- 
vellers «f  intelligence,  diaposed  to  witness  the  aspect  of 


«l 


^.^-v. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


/. 


^^  J^^4i. 


1.0 


1.1 


2.5 
2.2 


112.0 


1.25 


1.8 


U    111.6 


<P^ 


0%! 


>>^ 


^'^ 
> 


^ 


Photographic 

Sciaices 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(710)  873-4503 


U.. 


% 


ooo 


CINCINNATI. 


a  country  which  has  been  the  theatre  of  a  most  rapid  im- 
provemcnt.  ^ 

The  following  may  be  recommended  as  a  general  tour. 

Fjrst  proceed  to  Wheeling;  down  the  Ohio  river  tty 
Cmcmnati ;  across  the  country  to  Sandusky  Bay  by  the 
western  route  in  good  stage  coaches  ;  thence  by  steam- 
boat to  Detroit,  and  if  desired  onward  to  the  western 
lakes.— Rcturnmg,  by  steam,  land  at  Cleaveland,  and 
make  an  excursion  on  the  canal,  (which,  although  about 
350  miles  long,  is  not  very  interesting.)  Then  take 
steamboat  to  Buffalo,  whence  the  traveller  may  take  what 
route  he  prefers. 

Pittsburgh.  This  is  more  like  a  manufacturing  town 
m  England,  than  any  other  in  the  United  States.  It 
would  surpass  our  limits  to  enumerate  all  the  manufac- 
tonea  here. 

The  great  steamboat,  Missouri,  built  at  Pittsburgh,  in 
1841,  IS  233  feet  by  59  (including  guards,)  and  of  6oa 
tons.     It  plies  between  New-Orleans  and  St.  Louis. 

The  extensive  coal  mines  in  this  vicinity  are  829  feet 
above  the  Ohio,  and  643  feet  above  Lake  Erie. 

Po.  appearance  of  the  country  along  the  Ohio  at 
Wheehng,  is  remarkably  beautiful;  and  it  has  thence  d^- 
lived  the  name  of  Belmont.  The  land  is  undulating,  and 
rises  gradually  for  a  distance  back,  affording  many  fine 
retrospects  to  a  traveller  in  that  direction,  over  a  well  cul- 
tivated region.  Considerable  quantities  of  tobacco  are 
now  raised  here. 

Cincinnati.  The  streets  cross  each  other  at  right  an- 
glas,  and  those  parallel  to  the  Ohio,  are  numbered  1st,  2d 
3d,  &c.  except  the  two  next  the  shore.  The  Miami  canal 
passes  through  three  of  the  streets.  The  principal  buiid- 
ings  are  the  Court-house,  Jail,  Post-office,  Hospital,  Col- 
lege, Medical  College,  Mechanics'  Institute,  Council 
l^hamber,  Churches,  Theatre,  Amphitheatre,  &c.  Capital 
employed  lu  manufactures  in  1841,  14^  millions  ;  pro- 
duct of  mechanical  labour  17  ^  millions.  There  are  130 
different  branches  of  manufacture,  employing  1000  mas- 
ter employers,  and  10,000  working  people.  There  are  a 
Commercial  Hospital,  Lunatic  Asylum,  Meaieal  College, 
and  the  Westein  Museum. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


S23 


ROUTE  FROM  N.  YORK  TO  PHILADELPHIA. 

From  New-York  to  Philadelphia,  by  the  Camden  and 

Amboy  Railroad  85  miles     The  boat  from   the  Battery 

to  Amboy,  New-Jersey  23  m.  railroad,  to  Hightstown  20, 

Bordentown    14,  Steamboat   to  Bristol,  Pennsylvania  9, 

.Burlington,  New-Jersey  1,  Philadelphia  18. 

Do.  by  Railroad,  through  Newark,  &c.  From  Bar- 
clay-street Ferry  to  Jersey  city,  New-Jersey,  1  mile, 
Newark  8,  Elizabethtown  6,  Rahway  5,  New-Brunswick 
13,  Trenton  26,  Bristol  11,  Philadelphia  17. 

THE  CITY  OF  PHILADELPHIA. 

Philadelphia  is  the  second  city,  for  size,  in  the  United 
States  ;  and  is  remarkable  for  the  regularity  of  its  streets, 
which,  almost  without  exception,  run  at  right  angles,  and 
*re  of  equal  and  convenient  breadth. 

It  win  he  convenient  to  the  stranger  to  recollect  that 
the  streets  running  north  and  south  are  named  Firsts  Se- 
cond, Third,  &c.  beginning  on  both  sides  of  the  city  on 
the  banks  of  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill,  until  they  meet 
at  the  square  nea^ihe  centre.  The  streets  which  run 
east  and  west,  are  generally  named  after  trees ;  the  lanes 
and  alleys,  after  shrubs,  &c. 

The  Market.  This  consists  of  a  succession  of  build- 
ings in  the  middle  of  Market-street,  extending  from  the 
fish  market  on  the  river's  bank  to  Eighth- street,  and  from 
Broad-street  to  Schuylkill,  Sth-street,  affording  room  for  a 
convenient  display  of  articles. 

The  Exchange  is  on  Third  and  Dock-streets,  with  the 
Post-office  in  the  basement,  (here  is  a  stand  for  omni- 
busses,)  Blind  Institution  in  Race-street. 

The  Bank  of  the  United  States,  in  Chesnut-street,  be- 
tween Fourth  and  Fifth,  is  built  of  white  marble  in  the 
form  of  a  temple,  with  two  fronts,  each  ornamented  with 
eight  fine  Doric  columns,  of  the  ancient  proportions  with- 
<out  bases. 

50 


I 


msi 


324 


THE   ACADEMY  OF  ARTS, 


SO' 


1^ 


p;  I 


m 


Gtrari  Bank,   in  Third,  facing  Dock-sireof,  U 
of  marble,  and  presenta  a  beautiful  low  of  six  Corininian 
columns. 

The  Bank  of  Pennsylvania,  opposite,  has  two  front?, 
on  Second  and  Dock-strcets,  each  with  six  Ionic  columns. 

Ihe  State  House,  m  Chesnut-street,  between  Fifth  and 
bixth-streets,  is  a  large  brick  building,  with  court  rooms, 
&c.  at  either  end.  In  the  front  room,  enst  of  the  main 
entrance,  the  old  Continental  Congress  held  their  sessions ; 
and  there  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  signed, 
July  4th,  1776.  ^ 

The  Athencenm  is  adjoining,  open  all  day  to  strangers. 
Ihe  Philosophical  Society's  Library  and  Cabinet. 
Independence  Square  is  a  fine  shaded  piece  of  ground 
behmd  the  State  House.  " 

City  Library,  Fifih-stveet,  open  to  the  public  from  2, 
•  '-ru'    rr^     ranklin's  apparatus,  and  Cromwell's  clock, 
w         i7^^«»-"'y  contains  a  medical  department  and  the 
Wistar  Museum,  with  a  library,  garden,  &c. 

«tnip  T^^Pi:-,'"!  ?'j,^«"";:«t'-eet,  is  a  fine  building  of 
stone.  The  Philadelphia  Museum  of  Mr.  Peale  in  the 
northern  part.  It  contains  a  large  collection  of  curiosi- 
ties of  various  descriptions.  The  huge  skeleton  of  a  mam- 
moth 13  represented  entire;  for  the  parts  which  were  defi- 
cient on  one  side,  have  been  suppllld  by  imitations  of 
those  on  the  other. 

Washington  Square  is  on  the  other  side  of  Sixth- 
street,  with  a  handsome  church  on  the  southern  side,  with 
a  range  ot  wooden  columns. 

The  Pennsylvania  Hospital  is  a  large  and  admira- 
ble  institution,  in  the  next  street,  where  great  numbers 
of  sick  are  attended.  Twenty-five  cents  will  secure  ad- 
mis^on  to  the  building  and  gardens,  and  also  to  the  top. 

West  s  Celebrated  Picture  of  Christ  healing  the  sick, 

of  tSreet.'"  ^  """'    "'"  ^""^^"^  °^  '^'  °PP°^"«  "^^ 

The  Theatre,  in  Chesnut-street,   between  Sixth  and 
beventh-streets,  has  a  marble  front. 

in  ItJ^T""''  f^"""- 1'  ^  ^^"^«  ^^y°"^'  ^"'i  somewhat 
in  the  Gothic  style,  with  a  small  court  yard  in  front. 

The  Academy  of  Arts,  Chesnut-street,  between  Tenth 
and  Eleventh,  contains  a  collection  of  statues,  busts,  &c. 


%* 


PHILADELPHIA. 


225 


pet,  is   hUo 
'■  CorinthiaJi 

two  front.o, 
lie  columns', 
n  Fifth  and 
ourt  rooms, 
jf  the  main 
?ir  sessions; 
vas  signed, 

strangers. 
Cabinet. 
D  of  ground 

)lic  from  2, 
ill's  clock. 
3nt  and  the 

building  of 
pale  in  the 
of  curiosi- 
of  a  mam- 
were  defi- 
litations  of 

of  Sixth- 
side,  with 

1  admira- 
t  numbers 
secure  ad- 
0  the  top. 
?  the  sick, 
>03ite  side 

Sixth  and 

somewhat 
•ont. 

en  Tenth 
msts,  &c. 


in  marble  and  plaster,  ranged  in  an  apartment  lighted 
from  the  top;  and  beyond,  a  gallery  of  pictures  with 
many  specimens  of  the  works  of  American  artists. 

The  Orphans'  and  the  Widows'  Asylums  are  in  the 
western  part  of  the  city. 

Academy  of  Natural  Sciences,  Pcnn's  House,  Letitia 
Court,  United  States  Mint,  &c.  &X3. 

There  are  two  medical  institutions  in  this  city,  where 
lectures  are  delivered  to  great  numbers  of  students. 

The  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum  is  a  valuable  institu- 
tion; as  is  the  Friends'  Alms  House  in  Walnut-street, 
between  Third  and  Fourth,  where  poor  families  are 
placed  in  separate  houses,  among  small  gardens,  and 
furnished  with  employment. 

Girard  College,  founded  by  the  late  Stephen  Girard, 
IS  on  the  Ridge  Road,  a  little  out  of  the  city.  The  main 
building  is  of  three  stories,  169  feet  in  length,  and  111 
wide,  with  an  elegant  porti"  .  with  marble  columns. 

The  banks  of  the  Schuylkill  are  well  formed  for  the 
display  of  the  large  public  edifices  which  will  be  pen- 
ceived  ranged  along  their  eminences  for  two  or  three  miles, 
to  the  honour  of  Philadelphia,  and  the  ornament  of  its 
environs. 

Mr.  Pratt's  Garden  is  about  three  miles  northwest 
from  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  worthy  of  a  visit.  The 
situation  is  agreeable  and  commanding,  on  a  little  cape  or 
promontory  on  the  Schuylkill;  and  from  the  gravelled 
walks,  the  visiter  enjoys  a  view  down  the  river,  of  the 
basin,  the  dam,  the  Water  Works,  below  which  are  the 
State  Prison,  House  of  Refuge,  Hospital,  the  two  bridges, 
and  on  the  opposite  side  a  handsome  seat  called  "  Wood- 
lands."    The  Western  Railroad  lesds  through  it. 

The  Schnylkill  Water  Works.  There  is  a  large  stone 
building  of  chaste  architecture,  containing  five  large  water 
whpels,  which  are  capable  of  raising  seven  millions  of  gal- 
lons in  twenty-four  hours.  They  are  turned  by  a  current 
from  the  dam  above.  The  reservoirs  are  on  the  hill 
above,  which  is  higher  than  any  part  of  the  city,  which  it 
supplies.     They  both  contain  eleven  millions  of  gallons. 

Penitentiary.  This  is  a  large  and  singular  construc- 
tion.    The  prisoners  are  kept  in  solitary  confinement. 

The  wall  is  forty  feet  high,  built  of  granite,  and  en- 


;t;,i; 


I 


9S6 


MINERALS    m    PENNSYLVANIA. 


closei  a  gquaro,  650  feet  on  each  side.  The  cells  aro 
formed  in  seven  long  stone  galleries,  an  octagon  in  the 
centre.  The  entrances  to  the  cells  are  through  little  yards 
from  the  outside,  and  each  has  a  wicket  door  in  the  gal- 
lery. A  centinel  in  the  octagon,  by  turning  on  his  heel, 
can  look  through  all  the  galleries;  and  the  arched  roofs 
reverberate  every  sound,  so  that  he  can  hear  a  very  alight 
noise. 

The  Naval  Hospital  is  situated  about  two  miles  south- 
west from  the  centre  of  the  city.  The  expense  's  defray- 
ed by  funds  contributed  by  the  officers  and  seamen  of 
the  U.  S.  navy,  out  of  their  pay.  The  building  is  on 
an  eminence,  commands  an  extensive  view,  and  makes 
a  fine  appearance  from  a  distance.  The  front  is  386  feet 
in  length,  three  stories  high,  and  it  is  large  enough  to 
lodge  300  or  400  persons.  The  first  story  is  of  granite, 
and  the  second  and  third  of  marble,  both  of  which  kinds 
of  stone  are  found  in  abundance  in  the  vicinity  of  Phila- 
delphia. 

The  Navy  Yard,  (on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware.) 
Here,  as  in  most  of  the  principal  navy  yards  of  the  U. 
States,  ships  of  war  are  built  under  the  shelter  of  im- 
mense buildings,  which  protect  the  workmen  and  the 
timber  from  exposure  to  the  weather.  The  line  of  battle 
ship  Pennsylvania,  the"  Franklin"  and  "  North  Carolina," 
and  the  frigates  United  States  and  Guerriere  were  built 
at  this  place. 

The  north  side  of  the  navy  yard  is  devoted  to  brick 
buildings  for  the  residence  of  officers,  ship  timber,  &c. 
while  at  the  south  end  are  the  workshops.  The  Marine 
Barracks  aro  on  the  western  side ;  and  the  area  of  the 
yard,  which  is  walled  with  brick,  is  about  twelve  acres. 
The  extensive  meadows  south  of  Philadelphia  present 
a  beautiful  scene  of  fertility  and  cultivation.  A  ride  in 
that  direction  at  morning  or  evening  is  recommended. 

Geology  of  Pennsylvania.  A  geological  survey  of 
this  state  has  been  in  progress  five  years  at  the  direction 
of  the  Legislature,  by  Professor  Rogers.  Serpentine, 
asbestos,  and  many  interesting  minerals,  are  found  in 
the  southeastern  part  at  Chestnut  Hill.  Bituminous  coal 
beds  exist  west  of  the  AUeghanies  in  many  places,  (becom- 
ing more    bituminous  as  you  go  north,)  and  anthracittt 


.  H 


\4>i 


ROUTES   TO  THE   COAL   MINES. 


227 


he  cells  aro 
igon  in  the 
I  little  yards 
in  the  gal- 
3n  his  heel, 
rched  roofs 
i  very  slight 

niles  south* 
B  *s  defray- 
seamen  of 
ding  is  on 
and  makes 
is  386  feet 
»  enough  to 
of  granite, 
/hich  kinds 
r  of  Phila- 

Delaware.) 
}  of  the  U. 
iter  of  im- 
n  and  the 
e  of  battle 
Carolina," 
were  built 

d  to  brick 
mber,  &c. 
he  Marine 
irea  of  the 
slve  acres, 
lia  present 

A  ride  in 

nded. 

survey  of 

3  direction 

erpentine, 

found  in 
inous  coal 
},  (becom- 
anthrauittt 


nst  of  thorn.  The  purest  Lehigh  coal  contains  88^  per 
cent  of  carbon,  and  Schuylkill,  92 ;  Bituminous,  87. 
There  aro  numerous  veins  of  brown  oxide  and  compact 
carbonate  of  iron:  the  latter  occurring  with  both  kinds 
of  coal.  Some  of  the  ores  yield  about  70  per  cent  of 
inm.  Magnetic  oxide  is  found  in  the  southeastern  part 
of  the  state.  Silicate  of  zinc,  yielding  50,40  of  metal, 
is  found  in  Northumberland  county. 

The  Chesapeake  and  Delaware  Canal  is  intended  for 
sloops  of  the  largest  class,  and  schooners:  the  locks  being 
100  by  22  feet,  and  the  canal  60  feet  wide  at  the  water 
line. 

The  principal  objects  are  the  harbour  on  the  Dela- 
ware, the  adjoining  embankment  on  St.  Geoigo's  Maruli, 
the  Deep  Cut,  and  the  Summit  Bridge. 

The  Harbour  on  the  Delaware  is  at  Delaware  City. 
It  is  formed  by  two  piers  running  into  the  water:  one 
500  feet  long,  and  the  other  600,  with  a  return  pier  of 
100  feet. 

The  Pennsylvania  Canals.  Under  this  general 
name  is  comprehended  a  great  and  extensive  system  of 
internal  improvements,  for  several  years  designed,  and 
partly  accomplished,  by  the  Legislature  of  this  state. 

ROUTES  TO  THE  COAL  MINES. 

In  consequence  of  the  opening  of  the  vast  beds  of  coal 
between  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill  rivers,  at  a  distance 
of  about  80  or  100  miles  north  of  Philadelphia,  that  re- 
gion has  become  an  object  of  great  interest. 

In  the  tract  of  country  north  from  Philadelphia,  are 
found  inexhaustible  qtjaniities  of  coal,  in  elevated  ridges 
and  mountains  of  the  Alleghany  range,  which  are  sup- 
posed to  be  connected  with  those  which  are  known  on  the 
western  side  of  the  range,  although  they  are  of  different 
characteristics.  The  western  coal  is  easily  combustible, 
and  resembles  that  imported  from  Liverpool,  &c.  while 
the  former  is  hard,  very  difficult  to  kindle,  and  burns  with 
very  little  flame.  It  is,  however,  of  great  purity,  being  of 
that  sort  known  to  geologists  by  the  name  of  Anthracite, 
and  is  now  very  exlL-iislv;-;Iy  used  for  fuel  in  Philadelphia, 
New-York,  and  different  parts  of  the  country.     The  varie- 

20* 


•! 


-I  li 


228 


ICHUYLKII.L   NAVIOATIOK. 


A  ; 


ties  of  this  coul  como  Jown  in  n  kind  of  rudo  square  boats, 
culled  arks,  drawing  only  12  or  15  inches  of  water,  but 
containing  about  250  bushoirt  each,  which  may  nauully  be 
seen  on  iho  nhores  of  the  Schuylkill,  and  at  the  wharves  in 
the  Delaware.  It  is  only  a  few  years  since  this  coul  wan 
supposed  to  bo  enfirely  worthless  ;  and  now  the  demand  in 
eno/moua. 

The  whole  length  of  the  line  of  navigation,  undertaken 
by  the  Schuylkill  company,  is  108  miles ;  ond  the  work  wa^ 
considered  the  greatest  over  performed  in  this  country  by 
a  company.  It  commences  at  the  Lancaster  Schuylkill 
bridge,  and  ends  at  Mount  Carbon  ;  G2  miles  of  it  arc  by 
canals,  and  46  by  pools  in  the  river. 

The  obstacles  which  the  surface  of  the  country  presents 
to  works  of  such  a  nature  in  this  state,  are  miusually  great, 
as  may  be  supposed,  when  it  is  remarked,  that  eight  ranges 
of  mountains  pass  through  Pennsylvania  from  northeast  to 
southwest,  and  that  the  height  of  land  is  supposed  to  be  8  or 
900  feet  in  the  lowest  place,  so  that  the  rivers  descend  very 
much  in  their  courses.  It  has  been  necessary  to  mnko 
more  lockiges  on  the  Schuylkill  line,  than  on  the  whole 
Erie  canal  m  New-York.  Beside  tliis,  the  country  is  of 
the  transition  formation,  with  sloping  strata,  which  cause 
nmch  leaking. 

Route  to  the  Lehigh  Coal  Minks  at  Mauch  Chunk. 

There  are  three  routes  from  Philadelphia  by  which 
Mauch  Chunk  may  be  reached  :  1st.  By  the  way  of  Beth- 
lehem. 2d.  By  the  way  of  Easton  through  Doylestown— 
and  3d.  By  the  way  of  Bristol ;  also  through  Easton.  By 
either  route  you  reach  the  village  in  a  day  and  a  half. 

Canal  Route  to  the  Schuylkill  Coal  Mines  at 
Mount  Carbon. 

Manatunk  is  a  large  manufacturing  village,  furnished 
■with  water  by  a  canal  3  miles  in  length,  through  which  the 
boat  will  pass. 

Plymouth  Locks.  The  marble  quarries  are  in  this  vi- 
cinity. 


^^^^^^H^H '' 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H^^K  '^ 

i 

H) 

noUTKS    TO  THE   COAL    MINKS. 


829 


qunre  boats, 
f  water,  but 
y  usuully  be 
B  wharves  in 
liiA  cuul  wail 
0  dvnmnrl  in 

undertaken 
be  work  wa?* 
s  country  by 
r  Schuylkill 
of  it  arc  by 

itry  presents 
jually  great, 
eight  ranges 
northeast  to 
ed  to  be  8  or 
lescend  very 
ry  to  make 
in  the  whole 
ountry  is  of 
which  cause 


rcH  Chunk. 

t  by  which 
'ay  of  Beth- 
jylestown— 
ilaston.  By 
a  half. 

Mines  at 


',  furnished 
h  which  the 

i  in  this  vi' 


NonRiSTOvvN     ontains 
court  house,  jail,  and  two 


style,  which  stands  i 


some  fine  houses,  as  well  as  a 
lurches,  one    in  the    Goth 


11  ic 


n  a  c()nsj)UMi()ii»  siMiution. 


Rkadino,  54  miles  from  rhiladeljiliia,  is  a  place  of 
consideriiblo  importance,  inhabited  by  (Jermnris,  and  con- 
tains some  handsome  public  buildin<(s.  The  Union  Canal 
begins  2  miles  below  Reading,  passes  up  the  western  shore 
of  the  river  to  the  valley  of  the  Tulpehocken;  and  then 
follows  that  valley  till  within  5  miles  of  Lc^banon,  where 
begins  the  summit  level.  In  all  this  distance  it  rises  311 
feet,  by  numerous  locks  of  4  and  8  feet  lift.     The  canal  is 

24  feet  wide  at  bottom,  4   deep  and  36  on  the   surface. 

On  this  part  of  the  canal  is  the  Tunnel;  an  excavation 
bored  through  a  hill  for  a  distance  of  729  feet,  the  face  of 
the  hill  having  been  cut  away  at  the  entrance  25  feet.  Thia 
dark  and  gloomy  passage  is  18  feet  in  breadth  and  14  feet 
high. 

We  return  to  the  Schuylkill  Navigation.  From 
Reading,  the  road  passes  for  some  distance  near  the  river, 
and  affords  an  opportunity  to  see  the  canals,  dams,  &c. 
made  to  assist  the  navigation. 

The  'oad  to  Hamburgh  from  Reading,  lies  through  tho 
Great  "uimestono  Valley  of  Petinsylvania ;  which  has  the 
Kittatinny  chain  of  mountains  on  the  north,  and  the  Blue 
Ridge  on  the  south.  The  surface  is  beautifully  varied  by 
the  natural  undulations  of  the  surface. 

Hamburqh  19  a  small  village  with  nearly  a  hundred 
houses,  with  a  church  situated  in  a  romantic  position,  at 
the  entrance?  of  tho 

Schuylkill  Water  Gap.  This  ig  a  narrow  gorge, 
through  which  the  river  runs  over  a  steep  and  rocky  chan- 
nel for  4  or  5  miles;  leaving  no  room  upon  its  banks, 
which  rise  abruptly  on  each  side  to  the  height  of 
several  hundred  feet.  The  road  has  been  cut  out  along 
the  face  of  one  of  these  ranges,  at  a  great  elevation; 
where  the  surface  is  in  many  places  of  such  a  declivity, 
as  to  require  it  to  be  supported  by  walls  of  stone.  Tho 
views  which  are  here  afforded  to  the  traveller,  are  roman- 
tic and  varied  in  a  high  degree. 

The  Little  Schuylkill  River,  a  branch  of  tho  principal 
stream,  runs  through  a  valley  of  the  same  general  descrip- 
tion ;  and  here  lioB  the  road  to  Mount  Carbon. 


fiWI  I 


230 


nonTKS   TO   THE   COAL   MINES. 


"1    • 
J    ' 

if 

■ , 


'I'ho  Tunnel.  This  is  a  place  where  a  hill  has  been 
bored  through  J7')  yunls  for  a  canal,  about  3  milci  from 
Orwigsburgh. 

Mount  Carbon,  8  miles,  is  in  sight  of  several  coal 
midoa. 

The  coal  country  in  this  region  begins  in  Luzerne,  on  the 
upper  part  of  tho  Lackawana  river,  following  its  course  to 
the  Susquchnnna,  and  along  that  stream,  principally  on  the 
eastern  bank,  to  18  milcd  beyond  Wilkesbarre  It  runs 
south  to  the  Lehigh  river,  and  thence  southwest,  through 
Schuylkill  county. 

It  is  estimated  to  extend  about  100  miles ;  and  about  the 
middle  of  the  range  is  8  or  9  miles  wide,  growing  narrower 
towards  each  end.  At  Mount  Carbon  the  coal  occurs  in 
beds  4  or  5  feet  in  thickness,  generally  running  east  and 
west;  and  dipping  to  the  south  at  45*^,  with  a  slate  rock 
immediately  over  it,  and  strata  of  sandstone  and  earth 
above.  The  slate,  as  usual,  in  the  vicinity  of  coal,  pre- 
sents the  impressions  of  organized  substances,  at  some  an- 
cient period  imbedded  in  its  substance :  such  as  the  leaves 
of  laurel,  fern,  &c. 

In  consequence  of  the  inclination  of  the  coal  veins  into 
the  earth,  the  miners  have,  in  some  places,  simk  shafts  to 
the  depth  of  150  feet,  with  lateral  excavations,  east  and 
west,  of  various  lengths  to  300.  Two  small  carriages 
called  Trams,  are  used  in  a  sloping  shaft  to  bring  the  coal 
out,  being  made  to  descend  by  turns  ;  but  in  the  horizontal 
one,  which  has  been  carried  in  several  hundred  feet,  they 
employ  wheelbarrows.  Some  of  the  veins  run  perpendicu- 
larly. 

The  mammoth  coal  mine  of  Messrs.  Stees  and  Oliver, 
near  Pinegrove,  took  iire  in  March,  1841,  and  continued 
to  burn.  Beyond  Newcastle,  Pa.  is  a  mine  which  has 
been  burning  several  months,  and  formed  several  openings 
or  craters  on  the  top  of  a  mountain. 

Road  to  the  Lehigh  Coal  Mines  at  Mauch  Chunk. 

Philadelphia  to  Rising  Sun,  4  miles ;  Branchtown, 
(Child's  Tavern,)  4;  Shoemakertown,  8  ;  Jenkintown,  10; 
Abington,  12;  Willowgrove,  14;  Horsham,  16;  Graham 
park,  22;  Newville;  Doylestown,  26;  Danville,  29;  Ro- 
derick's tavern, ;  Tohicken  bridge ;  Easton,  5 ;  Mauch 
Chunk. 


IIJ' 


ROUTJtS  TO  THE  COAL  illKEa. 


231 


has  been 
lilcg  from 

i^eral  coal 

rne,  on  the 

course  to 

ally  on  tho 

It  runs 

,  through 

about  the 

narrower 

occurs  in 

east  and 

slate  rock 

and  earth 

3oal,  pre- 

;  some  an- 

the  leaves 

ferns  into 
shafts  to 
east  and 
carriages 
J  the  coal 
horizontal 
feet,  they 
rpendicu* 

id  Oliver, 

continued 

'hich  has 

openings 

:  Chunk. 

.nchtown, 

;own,  10 ; 

Graham 

29 ;  Ro- 

;  Mauch 


•       New  Hope  is  in  a  romantic  situation  ;  and  Goat  Hill 
J'^^'^PPPOsite  to  the  height  of  500  feet,  its  top  affordmg  a 

.f^'Jf^^re  Water  Gap.  The  scenery  at  this  spot  is 
beautilul.  The  course  of  the  river  appears  at  a  little  dis- 
l°kTl^!«  "''y^^''^  ^y  two  opposite  mountains,  between 
which  It  flows  in  a  narrow  channel,  suddenly  contracting 
Itself  to  a  furlong  s  breadth  from  a  broad,  smooth,  and  un- 
broken sheet,  hke  a  lake  of  considerable  extent. 

^"oston  IS  a  village  of  some  size,  and  a  central  point  from 
which  numerous  roads  diverge,  and  stage  coaches  run  in 
vanous  directions.     It  is  situated  in  a  rich  valley,  enclosed 

frCpb-7?,'^';^  ^'"".  -^•'""^^'"«-  I'  -  abo.ft  52  mTes 
irom  l-hiladelphia  and  contains  many  inhabitants.  Ex- 
cellent slates  are  made  here.  Within  a  compass  of  a 
mile  and  a  half  are  18  mills. 

The  following  is  a  list  of  distances  from  Easton  on  the 
different  stage  routes.  New-York,  70  miles ;  Schoolev's 
Mountain,  23;  Morristown,  41;  New-Bnmswick,  45; 
Bethlehem  12;  Mauch  Chunk,  34;  Nazareth,  7;  Delal 
ware  Wind  Gap,  12  ;  Water  Gap,  20;  Stroudsburgh,  27; 
Wilkesbarre,  52 ;  Belvidere,  12  ;  Reading,  52;  Nettown 
(Sussex  county,)  40. 

The  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal.  It  commences 
at  Kingston  on  the  Hudson  river,  and  runs  over  to  the 
Delaware  river,  through  the  valley  of  the  Neversink  creek, 
thence  up  the  valley  of  the  Delaware  to  the  Lackawaxen 
creek,  and  up  that  creek  to  the  foot  of  the  railway.  This 
IS  a  continuous  canal  of  1 1 7  miles  in  length.  The  railway 
commences  at  the  termination  of  the  canal,  and  runs  over 
Moosick  mountain  to  the  coal  mines  at  Caibondale  on  tho 

0^858  feT  '''^^^'  ^^  ^'~  "'"^''  °^'^''^°'"'"&  ^"  elevation 
At  Easion  will  be  seen  the  Dam  over  the  Delaware,  at 
the  termination  of  the  works  for  improving  the  navigation 
ol  Lehigh  river,  from  Mauch  Chunk  to  this  place. 

Ihe  road  to  iJfattc^  Chunk  leads  through  Bethlehem, 
A  yuV\  rhis  IS  a  neatly  built  place  in  a  romantic  and 
aelighttui  situation,  along  the  course  of  a  swift  running 
brook.  It  is  inhabited  by  Germans,  and  little  English  will 
be  heard  spoken  in  the  place.     There  is  an  old  church  and 


2:i*> 


MiUCH  CHUNK. 


If' 


IB 

III!  ^ 


is.' 


'M 


nil  nrademy  fur  tha  education  of  girls,  under  tliomanage' 
tiirtit  of  tlio  Moriiviiins. 

Tlio  workrt  on  flio  Lohijfh  river  ore  on  a  large  scale. 
Tim  riv«»r  doscoruU  3G^)  fmit,  ami  requiron  .'i2  locks  and 
21  (liuiifl.  The  Idckg  are  intended  for  steamboats  capable 
of  carrying  150  tons  of  coal,  100  feet  long  and  30  wide. 

Tli(>  Lchis^h  Water  Gap,  25  miles  from  Ivaston  and  11 
fronj  Lc.highton,  (»  miles  from  Munch  Chunk.  Hero  is  a 
bridge.  The  first  objects  that  attract  attention  near  the 
viIlM;;«i  «)f  Mau(!li  Chunk,  are  the  lock  in  the  river,  and  the 
chute  or  incliiii'd  plane,  at  the  end  of  the  railway,  down 
which  the  loaded  coal  cars  slide  to  the  wharf  on  the  river, 
where  they  load  the  boats  and  arks.  The  latter  carry  about 
10  touH.  Till?  train  of  cars  coming  down  the  railway 
will  often  bo  heard  nunbling  as  the  traveller  approaches 
the  village. 

Mauch  Chunk,  90  miles  from  New-York  and  70  from 
riiilailelphia.  There  is  a  spacious  hotel  in  this  young  and 
llourii»hing  village,  which  has  been  well  kept,  and  serves 
as  the  rendezvour*  for  numerous  parties  of  visiters  every 
season.  There  are  few  places  where  a  stranger  will  find 
more  to  gratify  him  than  here.  The  village  is  shut  in  by 
rude  mountains,  of  such  height  that  the  sun  is  invisible  to 
many  of  the  inhabitants  during  the  short  days.  The  hotel 
commands  u  view  of  some  parts  of 

The  Railway,  which  leads  from  near  the  coal  mines  to 
the  Lehij^h  River.  This  was  the  second  ever  constructed 
in  the  United  States — the  Quincy  Railway,  in  Massachu- 
setts, being  the  first.  It  extends  a  distance  of  nine  miles, 
along  the  side  of  a  mountain. 

The  sleepers,  on  which  the  railway  rests,  are  of  wood. 
The  rails  are  olso  of  wood,  4  by  6  inches,  and  covered  with 
an  iron  plate  J  of  an  inch  thick. 

The  coal  mine  lies  a  little  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
mountain ;  and  the  cool  cars  are  first  drawn  by  horses  to 
the  beginning  of  the  railway  up  an  acclivity  of  5-8ths  of  a 
mile.     The  summit  is  982  feet  above  the  river. 

Pleasure  wagons,  like  dearborns,  are  occasionally  used 
to  carry  strangers  up  and  down  the  railway ;  but  they  often 
go  up  in  the  returning  cars.  The  average  rise  of  the  way 
is  18  inches  in  100  feet,  which  is  scarcely  perceptible  to  the 
eye,  anil  permits  a  single  horse  to  draw  up  three  empty 


,M?J 


noUTKi  TO  Tlie  COAT,  MINES. 


233 


ko  manage* 

urgo  scale. 

locks  and 
Lis  capable 
iO  wide, 
ton  and  1 1 

Hero  18  n 
m  near  tho 
}r,  ond  tho 
ivay,  down 
n  tho  river, 
carry  nb.iut 
tio  railway 
ipproachos 

nd  70  from 
I  young  and 
and  serves 
iters  every 
^r  will  find 

Hhut  in  by 
invisible  to 

The  hotel 

al  mines  to 
jonstructcd 
Ma8r<achu- 
nine  miles, 

B  of  wood, 
ivered  with 

side  of  the 
y  horses  to 
5-8ths  of  a 

)nally  used 
t  they  often 
of  the  way 
nibletothe 
tiree  empty 


t'ftrs.  In  commg  down,  however,  by  their  own  grnviiv,  fho 
nirnuffes  would,  if  permitted,  move  with  immenHo  rapidity, 
in  1(J27  they  were  restrict.-d  to  a  rate  not  exauMiinir  8 
miles  an  hour.  It  is  said  that  they  hud  previously  «nno  15 
nnd  even  -JO.  The  road  generally  passes  along  u  narrow 
iiheH  whirh  is  alarming  to  a  straiiKer,  particularly  in  de- 
scend mg;  floine  of  the  precipices  being  TiOO  or  (JOO  feet. 

ihe  runnel  is  seen  in  going  up,  about  400  feet  above 
the  road.      It  is  V2  feet  high,  20  widcN  and  about  800  long. 
It  was  cut  through  the  mountain  iti  1«2G,  to  obtain  a  short 
passage  to  a  bed  <,f  coal  supposed  to  lie  on  the  other  side. 
A  Shalt  was  sunk  sixty-four  feet  from  the  summit  of  tho 
Mill   without  hading  coal;  live  hundred  feet  Leyond  this 
shaft  towards  the  north,   a  hole  has   been  bored  to  the 
depth  of  one  hundred  and  ten  feet;  coal  was  found  at  e'  'ity 
tV«et,  and  the  auger  continued  in  coal  to  the  extremity  of 
the  bore.     The  Compa/iy,  however,   were  disappointed; 
but  they  have  an  inexhaustible  supply  of  this  useful  article 
as   their  land  extends  14  miles  back  from  the  river,  and 
along  tho  road  ;  and  10  or  12  miles  are  underlaid  by  beds 
of  anthracite  coal. 

Tho  cars  are  made  of  strong  oak  timbers,  and  planked 
up  on  three  sides,  with  u  swinging  door  in  too  rear, 
borne  huvo  been  constructed,  in  which  stout  sheet  iron 
has  been  substituted  for  picnk.  They  aro  six  feet  four 
inches  long,  three  feet  wide  at  top,  and  two  feet  at  hot- 
tom,  and  about  three  feet  in  depth,  resting  on  wheels  with 
cast  iron  rims  or  fellies  two  feet  in  diameter,  one  inch 
thick,  and  about  four  inches  in  breadth,  with  a  stronir 
edge  or  ttanch,  one  inch  in  thickness,  and  about  two 
inches  wide,  which  prevents  them  from  slipping  off  tho 
rails.  * 

The  cars  may  bo  stopped  immediately  by  a  long  lever 
which  brings  strong  bearers  against  two  of  tho  wheels, 
and  causes  great  friction.     The  guide  to  every  brigade  of 
eleven  cars  holds  a  rope  attached  to  all  the  levers. 

A  curious  machine,  called  tho  Brake,  is  also  used. 

There  is  generally  a  stop  to  bo  made  in  tho  midst  of 
the  course,  to  wait  for  other  cars  passing,  and  to  oil  the 
wneels. 

Several  ingenious  experiments  have  been  resorted  to  in 
4liffercnt  parts  of  the  railroad,  to  avoid  gomo  inconve- 


III'  'i 


If!!. 


%i 


Routes  from  philadelpmu. 


■■'-  V ■ 

»r 

ill 

J 


Ir^lf , 


rtiencics  which  might  otherwise  be  caused  by  sudden  turns, 
right  anglof*,  cross  roaJr«,  bridges,  &c.  The  railway  is  in 
several  parts  supported  by  a  stone  wall  at  the  side.  Cross 
roads  are  not  intercepted  by  it,  for  the  I'ails  are  inter- 
rupted so  as  to  correspond  with  the  ruts;  at  the  short 
turns,  one  rail  is  raised  in  a  curve  of  a  few  inches  to  give 
the  car  a  new  direction  ;  and  at  a  right  angle,  like  those 
at  the  mine  and  at  the  chute  above  the  Lehigh,  revolving 
platforms  are  placed  which  turn  the  cars  round,  forty-five 
degrees. 

The  cars  themselves  weigh  about  1500  lbs.  each,  and 
run  on  wheels  two  feet  in  diameter.  Strangers  often  make 
an  excursion  in  them  for  the  novelty  of  the  mode  of  tra- 
velling. Several  hundreds  of  such  cars  are  in  use.  They 
carry  the  coal  to  the  Chute  above  the  river,  down  which 
they  are  sent  315  feet. 

At  the  end  of  the  railroad  is  a  platform  on  the  bank 
of  the  Lehigh  river,  down  which  the  coal  is  let  over  one 
of  the  rails  on  an  inclined  plane  of  750  feet,  (200  feet 
perpendicular  height,)  to  the  stone  houses,  the  wharf 
and  the  boats.  Each  loaded  car  is  connected  to  an  empty 
one,  V  rich  it  draws  up,  by  a  rope  that  passes  round  a 
large  cylinder  or  drum.  A  car  goes  down  in  about  one 
minute  and  twenty  seconds.  The  noise  of  the  cars  on  the 
railway  is  perceptible  at  a  great  distance. 

The  Mine,  or  quarry,  o['^na  upon  tho  road  by  passages 
cut  in  the  earth.  These  conduct  into  an  area  Tbrmed 
with  great  regularity,  by  tlie  removal  '.'  coal,  which  has 
been  dug  out  in  such  a  manner  as  to  keep  the  surface  on 
an  inclined  (dane,  where  the  carts  drive  in,  load,  and  then 
pass  out  at  tlie  other  passage.  The  coal  is  very  hard, 
pure  and  black,  with  a  beautiful  conchoiail  fracture,  and 
perfectly  clean  in  handling. 

The  surface  of  tho  ground  was  covered  with  a  coat  of 
sand  two  feet  thick,  interspersed  with  sandstone;  under 
that  was  eight  feet  of  black  pulverized  coal;  and  then 
came  the  coal  itself. 

Routes  from  Philadelphia  to  Baltimore   and  Pitts- 

burgh. 

From  riiiladelphia  to  Baltimore,  through  Frenchfown, 
1 15  nule»  by  ateamboat  and  railroad ;  steamboat  to  Fort 


dden  turns, 
lilway  is  in 
de.  Cross 
I  are  inter* 
t  the  short 
lies  to  give 
,  like  those 
!,  revolving 
i,  forty-five 

each,  and 
often  make 
ode  of  tra- 
use.  They 
Jovn  which 

n  the  bank 
et  over  one 

(200  feet 
the  wharf, 
;o  an  empty 
es  round  a 

about  one 
cars  on  the 

y  passages 
rea  Tbrmed 
which  has 
surface  on 
d,  and  then 
very  hard, 
acture,  and 

;h  a  coat  of 
one;  under 
;   and  then 


nd  Pitts' 

renchfown* 
oat  to  Fort 


FROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO   NEW-YORK.  035 

Mifflin,  8  miles;  Chester,  10  ;  Marcus  Hook,  4;  Christia- 
na  Creek,  Dolawaro,  R;  New-Castlo,  5 ;  R;irron ,  ?„ 
J  renduown  Maryland,  16  ;  Steamboat 'to  Turkey  Point 
13  ;  l»oor,s  laJand,  22  ;  Miller's  I^lnml  P  •  N^-I  t.  ' 
8  ;  Fort  McHonry.'lO  ;  BaUimor:,  3.  '  '  ^°"'  '  ""^' 
Uo.  through  Wilmington,  94  miles  by  railroad  To 
/^HatreTr'  ''  ^^'^  "/Elkton,  18;   Por't   Deposft',    llj 

near  the  lorT'n'-'  ^^'''  ^'^  cross  the  Susq^ehinnah 
neai  the  lower  falls  m  a  steamboat)  ;  Bush  River  Viaduct 

From   Philadelphia   to   Pittsburgh,    391    miles       Th« 

P^S  J^r  ^'"'^,  '^"^    Broad-srre'ets,)   le'ds    ihrolgh 
i  ratt  8  Garden,  and  crosses   Schuylkill  river  above  Fair^ 

Padf  10 .   Vnll       r^''?'    '  ^   "^''^^   ^•'"'"    Philadelphia, 
mTi    Crl  1:  I    P  ^'■'"'^'  ^'   Coatesville,  II;  Gap,^Il 
M,  1  Creek,  6;  Lancaster,  12;  Mountjoy,  12;  Middle  own 
15  ;  Harnsburgh,  9;  Canal  to  the  Oilp  of  ,he  B  ue  S"' 
5;   Duncan's  Is  and.  12-   Npivnnrf     in.   tu      '"'^  ^'"6^1 

Inno-    ^      ^  '1  ^"^    Portage   railroad,    37    milea 

s  ng  "mrrJ''   Alleghany    mountains  to    Johnstown 

mmg  1J98  feet,  and  descending   1172,  by  five  inclinp,! 

&?o"Ei:f"A"    ^?  ^he  topis^hetun;eT870feetl^^^^^^ 

nel  o7  r  7  f'    ^     !?"^'  '^  ^""'•'^'  "'"'  ^  '  (v^'^'^^S  a  tun! 
nel  of  .7  feet  under  a  farm  and  a  well ;)  Lockport.  10: 

b  r?h"Jo''  in'  'b'^^'^l^''  \' '  Warrent'o'wn,  12^;  LVch' 

rou^tr'"^n^^''n'^''P^K^  to  Pittsburgh,  railroad  and  stage 
105  'A  T  "I'  ""^r'  ^^  ^^y-^'  '•'"'''"^^  ^"  Harrisburgh, 
town  lo''"R':,tT^.',^l.V«^'^-^««««^h'^«  to  McConni: 
T„7'u-  ;  '^^^^"•■d'31;  Shellsburgh,  8;  Stoystown,  19; 
Laughhntown,  IC ;  Greensburgh,  23;  Pittsburgh,  32. 

ROUTE  FROM  PHILADELPHIA  TO  NEW-YORK. 

the^n^vi"^  Philadelphia  for  New^York,  the  ship  house,  in 
the  navy  yard,  is  seen  over  the  little  island  in  theri^er. 
IVear  the  upper  part  of  the  city  are  the  ship  yards ;  and 


< » 


936 


BATTLE  OP  TREKTOlt. 


'    I 


boyonrl,  thro<!  plnss  houses  nnar  tho  wntor,  with  ■whito 
wiiIIh  and  Murk  roof'-^.  Sto(>|)loH  anrl  shot  towers  ate  tho 
priiifipiil  ol)j»>("tfl  rising  above  the  great  mass  of  houses 
in  th(!  city. 

The  banks  of  tho  Delaware  arc  low,  and  present  an  uni- 
formity quite   unfriendly   to  tho  picturesjpie.     The  towns 
are,  however,  intnrestini^  in  the  history  of  tho  revolution, 
as  will  bo  seen  a  little  bc^yond. 

liURMNOTON  in  New-Jersey,  IB  miles  from  Philadel- 
phia, presents  a  biuidsomo  appearance ;  with  a  row  of 
fine  residences  fiieinff  the  river,  in  fiont  of  which  is  a  street 
with  a  beautiful  sloping  bank. 

Bristol,  a  little  above,  and  on  tho  opposite  side,  has 
also  a  numlx'r  of  gentlemen's  scats  ;  and  hatidsomo 
flower  gardens  on  tho  bank;  ornamented  with  fine  wil- 
lows, (fee. 

BoRDKNTOWN,  28  miles  from  Philadelphia,  and  7  be- 
low Trenton,  stands  on  a  steep  sand  bank,  through  which 
a  road  is  cut  to  the  water.  .lust  north  of  the  village  is  tho 
Into  residence  of  .Joseph  Bonaparte,  the  Count  de  Survil- 
liers,  once  King  of  Spain. 

Trknton,  33  m.  from  Philadelphia.  This  town,  at  the 
falls  of  tho  river,  is  the  capital  of  tho  state  of  New  Jer- 
sey. Trenton  is  a  town  of  considerable  size,  with  a  great 
mimber  of  stores  and  the  aspect  of  business.  The  bridge 
across  tlio  Delaware  has  5  arches,  and  is  a  handsome 
structure. 

Lamberton  it  a  village  where  the  coach  offices  are,  and 
apparently  forms  a  part  of  Trenton. 

The  Stale  Priaoii  is  situated  a  little  south  of  the  town. 

In  Dec.  177(5,  the  English  had  4000  men  on  the  east 
side  of  the  Delaware,  in  Trenton,  Bordentown,  Black- 
horse,  and  Burlington,  with  strong  detachments  at  Prince- 
ton and  New-Brunswick,  with  their  magazines. 

On  Christmas  night,  three  divisions  of  tho  American 
troops  attempted  to  cross  the  Delaware :  one  at  Bristol 
for  Burliiigt' n  ;  one  a  mile  below  Trenton  ;  and  one  nine 
miles  nbovo,  under  Washitigton  and  Greene.  This  was 
the  largest,  but  principally  militia  ;  it  approached  Trenton 
by  two  roads,  attacking  it  at  8,  A.  M.  very  unexpectedly, 
and  putting  tho  ICnglish  and  German  troops  (about  1500) 
to  the  ruut.     500  escaped  ;   the  rest  surrendered,  being 


with  tvhito 
vers  ato  tho 

9    uf  liOUSUB 

sent  an  uni- 
Tlie  towns 
revolution, 

Ti  Philadel- 
h  a  row  of 
;h  is  a  street 

to  sido,  has 
I  hatiddomo 
ith  fine  wil- 

,  and  7  bo- 
lugh  which 
ilhigo  is  tho 
t  de  Survil- 

town,  at  the 
)f  New  Jor- 
with  a  great 
Tho  bridge 
a,  handsome 

cea  are,  and 

}f  the  town, 
on  the  cast 
)wn,  Black- 
is  at  Prince- 

3  American 
0  at  Bristol 
md  one  nine 
This  was 
led  Trenton 
lexpcctcdly, 
about  1600) 
iered,  being 


FnoM    PHILADELPHIA   TO   NKW-YORK.  237 

the  regiments  of  Ralle,  Anspach,  and  Knyphausen.  Rallo 
was  killed  m  resisting.  The  other  divisions  could  not 
cross  on  account  of  the  ice,  and  Washington  returned  with 
his  captives  and  six  pieces  of  artillery.  This  successful 
stroke  greatly  encouraged  tho  country,  as  it  was  the  hr8t 
victory  over  those  'jernmn  mercenaries. 

Washington  soon  after  recrossed  the  river,  and  posted 
his  army  at  1  re.iton.  On  the  2d  of  Jan.  1777,  Lord  Co, .,- 
walhs  reached  Trenton;  and  Washington  fortified  himself 
on  the  Assumsick.  But  he  was  too  weak  to  hazard  an 
engagement;  and  the  Delaware  was  filled  with  ice. 

Being  hardly  pressed,  Washington  had  formed  the  plan 
Of  a  retreat  expecting  to  be  unable  to  remove  any  ihiim 
but  the  soldiers  and  what  they  could  carry,  as  the  soil 
was  80  unfavourable,  and  the  weather  so  mild  and  wet. 
that  wagons  could  not  pass.  Cornwallis  had  sent  tJ 
k'iinceton  for  a  regiment  to  join  him,  that  he  might  attack 
the  Americans  immediatdy.  In  the  night,  however, 
General  Greene  reported  that  the  weather  had  suddenly 
become  cold;  and  at  midnight,  Washington  was  able  to 
begin  his  march,  with  ail  his  baggage  pnd  artillery.  This 
was  done,  and  all  the  fires  left  burning.  Tho  British  had 
no  intimation  of  their  departure  until  they  heard  the  euns 
nring  at  Princeton.  ** 

Princeton,  10  miles.  This  village  is  situated  on  an 
elevated  ridge  of  land,  which,  on  several  sides,  rises  with 
a  long  and  easy  slope,  and  commands  a  prospect  of  con- 
siderable extent.  '^ 

In  approaching  it  from  tho  west,  the  Theological  Aca- 
demy, which  is  of  stone  and  4  stories  high,  is  seen  on  the 
right ;  and  Aassau  Hall  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  oppo- 
site  the  stage  house.  The  college  yard  is  large  and 
shaded  with  trees  ;  and  the  burying  ground  contains  the 
ashes  of  the  presidents  of  the  institution  :  Aaron  Burr, 
Jonathan  Edwards,  Samuel  Davis,  Samuel  Finlcy,  John 
Witherspoon,  and  Samuel  S.  Smith 

Washington  met  at  Stony  Brook,  north  of  the  pro- 
sent  road,  a  httlo  way  from  Princeton,  and  defeated  the 
British  regiment.  Ho  then  marched  north  to  the  high 
grounds  at  Morristown. 

During  the  battle  of  Princeton,  it  is  related  that  a  cau- 


11 1. 


r  ■, 


238 


BAT   OF   NEW-yORK. 


■i'.if 


r  ■; 


■^ 


^  i' 

■f  J 


non  shot  entered  the  chapel,  and  tore  away  the  head  from 
a  portrait  of  George  III. 

New-Brunswiuk.  Here  steamboats  as  well  as  the  rail- 
road communicate  with  New- York. 

The  view  18  pretty  from  the  hill  above;  whence  the 
public  buildings  appear  to  good  advantage,  particularly 
the  Theological  Seminary,  which  is  under  the  synod  of 
the  Dutch  Reformed  Church.  The  banks  below  arepic- 
turcHquo,  but  afterwards  are  low  and  little  varied. 

In  the  spring  of  1777,  Washington  advanced  from  near 
Morristown  to  Middlebrook,  where  he  intrenched  himself 
on  the  heights,  in  full  view  of  New-Brunswick.  The  Bri- 
tish tried  various  stratagems  to  decoy  him  from  this  com- 
manding position,  and  once  succeeded  ;  but  discovering 
their  intentions  to  surround  him,  he  quickly  regained  it, 
and  they  were  soon  after  obliged  to  give  up  all  hopes  of 
penetrating  in  this  direction,  and  devoted  their  attention 
to  co-operating  with  Gen.  Burgoyne,  who  was  coming 
down  towards  Albany. 

Perth  Ambov,  13  miles.  Here  is  usually  some  ship- 
ping; but  the  place  has  little  to  attract  observation. 

Emzabethtown  Point,  15  miles  from  New-York. 
The  village  is  partly  seen  about  2  miles  inland. 

Staten  Island  is  largo  and  elevated,  with  but  few  in- 
habitants, and  a  small  cluster  of  houses. 

On  entering  New-York  Bay,  Fort  Lafayette  is  seen  in 
the  Narrows,  between  Staten  and  Long  Islands,  which  is 
the  passage  r,o  the  sea.  The  city  presents  a  close  mass 
of  houses,  with  Castle  Williams  on  Governor's  Island, 
seen  near  it  on  the  right ;  and  Kllis's  and  Bedlow's  Isl- 
ands on  the  left  with  their  fortifications.  On  approach- 
ing, the  prominent  objects  are  the  tall  steeples  of  numerous 
churches,  the  dome  of  the  City  Hall,  and  other  prominent 
buildings.  The  clusters  of  trees  observed  on  the  shore  in 
front  of  the  city,  are  on  the  Battery  :  a  place  once  fortified, 
but  now  the  principal  public  square  ;  and  Castle  Clinton 
just  west  of  it  has  been  converted  into  a  place  of  amuse- 
ment for  summer  evenings. 


head  from 

as  the  rail- 

vhence  the 
)articularly 
le  synod  of 
ow  are  pic- 
ed. 

I  from  near 
led  himself 
The  Bri- 
this  com- 
liscovering 
•egained  it, 
1  hopes  of 
r  attention 
as  coming 

some  ship- 

ation. 

New-York. 

but  few  in- 

s  is  seen  in 
Is,  which  is 
close  mass 
ir's  Island, 
jdlow's  Isl- 
n  approach- 
)f  numerous 
r  prominent 
the  shore  in 
ice  fortified, 
stle  Clinton 
e  of  amuse- 


VIRGIMA. 


239 


ROUTE  TO  THE  VIRGLNIA  SPRINGS. 

The  Virginia  Springs.  Mineral  springs  of  different 
Kinds  are  found  in  almost  ovory  county  in  this  state  west  of 
the  Blue  Ridgo  ;  and  some  of  them  are  much  resorted  to 
in  lalo  years  by  invalids  and  travellers  for  pleasure  from  a 
distance,  not  a  few  of  whom  come  from  the  northern  states. 
The  accommodations  are  various.  At  some  the  visiter 
fares  well;  at  others,  families  find  it  necessary  to  take 
servants  and  some  furniture  with  them,  if  they  wish  to  bo 
comfortable,  as  they  will  find  no  habitations  provided,  ex- 
cept small  ones,  chiefly  lo^  houses,  while  a  common  table 
is  set  in  the  hull  of  a  pavilion. 

The  Hot  Springs,  in  Bath  county,  are  considered  use- 
ful in  rheumatic  cases,  and  resorted  to  chiefly  in  July  and 
August.  The  water  of  one  is  at  96°.  and  another  as  high 
as  112^,  Fahrenheit. 

The  Sweet  Springs  are  in  Monroe  county,  and  are  at 
times  much  frequented  by  a  variety  of  company. 

The  Natural  Bridge  is  one  of  the  greatest  natural  cu- 
riosities in  the  United  States.     It  is  so  well  formed,  so 
safe  and  so  conveniently  situated,  that  it  is  crossed  by  a 
pabllc  roiid.     The  traveller,  however,  might  easily  pass  it 
without  observing  it ;  as  it  is  60  feet  broad,  and  partly  over- 
grown with  trees.     To  see  it  a  stop  must  be  made,  and 
the  traveller  must  walk  to  the  brow  of  the  precipice.    Tho 
finest  view  is  from  below;  and  to  enjoy  it  he  must  descend 
to  the  level  of  Cedar  creek,    which  "flows    there.      The 
banks  are  almost  perpendicular  for  an  extent  of  about  80 
yards,  and  almost  200  feet  in  height,  where  they  are  con- 
nected by  the  bridge,  which  forms  a  fine  arch  from  side  to 
side,  surprisingly  regular  for  a  work  of  nature.     The  dis- 
tance between   the  banks  at  the  water's  level  is  45  feet, 
and  90  above.     The  bridge  consists  of  a  solid  rock,  filling 
the  upper  part  of  this  chasm,  and  of  about  the  following 
dimensions  :  length  90  feet,  breath  GO,  and  thickness  40. 
VVier's  Cc7je.     This  is  one  of  the   most  beautiful  ca- 
verns in  th;i  vorld,  and  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit.  It  is  also 
in  Rockingr     ■  county.     It  is  under  the  charge  of  a  man 
whose  care  and  attentions  may  be  relied  on  by  strangers, 
vil!   funii:.;h   specimens  of  the  beautiful  spar  with 


H 


ii 


!i 


u\\ 


III 


240 


WIER'S    CAVE. 


It1 


I!'  t 


;(| '{ 


which  it  ahound-j,  nnd  pack  them  for  transportation.  Every 
visiter  here  and  ut  other  mineral  h)calitieo,  should  procure 
specimens,  if  not  an  entire  suite  of  specimens,  for  himself, 
his  friends,  or  some  scientific  institution  or  association. 

Wier's  Cave  extends  about  800  yards,  and  is  divided 
into  several  apartments  of  different  sizes.  Torches  must 
be  carried  the  whole  distance ;  and  those  who  wish  to  ex- 
amine It  at  leisure  should  lake  in  some  refreshments.  The 
guides  will  illuminate  some  parts  by  planting  lights  in  se- 
veral places.  The  walls  are  formed  of  the  most  beautiful 
crystallized  carbonate  of  lime,  or  calcareous  spar.  The 
crystals  are  of  various  forms,  size  and  colour,  and  reflect  the 
Jight  with  a  most  brilliant  sparkling.  In  some  places  are 
ihin  sheets  of  the  same  incru-itations,  which  have  the  ap- 
pearance of  richly  flowing  drapery  ;  and  from  the  lofty 
roc)f  of  one  of  the  halls  is  one  which  appears  as  if  floating 
in  the  air.  It  has  received  the  name  of  Elijah's  Mantle. 
Numerous  stalactites  hang  from  the  roof  like  icicles  ;  others 
form  beautiful  colonnades,  extending  to  the  floor.  Many 
stalagmites  stand  on  the  ground,  several  feet  high.  In  the 
"  Organ  Room"  are  rows  of  these,  which  are  not  only 
small,  hollow,  and  often  transparent,  but  so  slender  as  to 
vibrate  when  touched,  and  give  musical  sounds  of  various 
pitches,  like  the  notes  of  an  instrument. 

Other  particulars,  equally  interesting,  we  have  not  room 
to  give. 

Madison's  Cave,  in  the  same  county,  though  only  300 
feet  in  extent,  is  somewhat  similar  to  Wier's  Cave;  and 
another  in  Frederick  county,  near  the  North  Mountain. 
The  Blowing  Cave  is  situated  in  the  Alleghany  Moun- 
tains, and  another  in  the  Cumberland  ridge. 

In  other  piirts  of  the  United  States  are  many  caves, 
most  of  which  however  lie  out  of  the  principal  routes  of 
travellers.  Of  these,  the  great  Kentucky  Cavern  is  the 
principal,  which  is  probably  the  largest  in  the  world, 
being  ten  miles  or  more  hi  extent,  with  halls  covering 
several  acres,  in  the  north,  caves  of  considerable  inter- 
est are  found  on  the  Swatara  river,  Pennsylvania,  Water- 
town  and  Rhinebeck,  New-York,  besides  several  in  Ver- 
mont, in  Derby,  Dorset  and  Clarendon.  Most  of  these  are 
in  limestone  regions,  and  have  probably  been  formed  by  the 
washing  of  subterranean  currents  of  water. 


lion.  Every 
)uld  procure 
for  himself, 
aciation. 
i  is  divided 
jrches  must 
wish  to  px- 
ments.  The 
lights  in  se- 
tot  beautiful 
spar.  Tho 
d  reflect  the 
^  places  are 
ave  the  ap- 
n  the  lofty 
s  if  floating 
li's  Mantle. 
;le3 ;  others 
)or.  Many 
igh.  In  the 
•e  not  only 
ender  as  to 
I  of  various 

e  not  room 

h  only  300 
Cave ;  and 
Mountain, 
any  Moun- 

lany  caves, 
I  routes  of 
vern  is  the 
the  world, 
i  covering' 
•able  inter* 
lia,  Water- 
•al  in  Ver* 
if  these  are 
lied  by  the 


ROUTES   PRO\t   K£\V-ORLEANS   HORlH.  241 

nichmond,   the  capital  of  Virginia,  is  on  the  eastern 
«ide  of  James  River,  about  150  miles  from  its  mouth 
*  ine  steamboats  go  up  to  the  city,  but  ships  stop  a  short 
distance  below.     The  falls  forbid  navigation  above,  ex- 
cept  to  boats.     There  is  a  canal  for  boats  round  the  falls 
^^  miles  long.    The  principal  streets  are  broad  and  straight, 
ihe  Capitol  is  a  fine  building  on  an  eminence  on  the 
model  of  a  Grecian  temple.     Mines  of  inferior  bituminous 
coal  m  the  vicinity  furnish  much  of  the  fuel.     There  are 
some  pleasant  rides  in  the  neighbourhood. 

iVor/o/A,  the  principal  seaport  of  Virginia,  is  situated 
at  the  mouth  of  Chesapeake  Bay,  on  a  part  of  that  extent 
sive  level,  sandy,  pine  bearing  region,  which  forms  the 
eastern  coast  of  the  United  Stales,  from  New-Jersey  souths 
ward.  Ihero  is  nothing  interesting  in  the  scenery;  and 
but  little  to  attract  a  traveller.  The  United  States  Navy 
xard  is  opposite.  '' 

The  Dismal  Sioamp  Canal  extends  into  North  Caro- 
lina to  Albemarle  sound,  23  miles. 

Old  Point  Comfort,  on  the  Chesapeake,  is  the  nosi* 
lion  oi  one  of  the  strongest  fortresses  in  the  Union.  The 
situation  13  low,  sandy  and  solitary,  and  scarcely  Jiscerni. 
me  trom  the  steamboat  in  passing. 

SOUTHERN  ROUTES  AND  DISTANCES. 

1vyi  ^7"",  New^Orleans  to  Charleston,  by  land  and  water. 
Mobile  114  miles,  Steamboat  to  St.  Joseph's  215,  Steam* 
boat  to  St.  Mark's  8/5,  Railroad  to  Tallahassee  21,  stane- 
coach  to  Brunswick,  Georgia,  210,  Steamboat  to  Charles- 
ton  IbU. 

Or,  from  Mobile  by  stagecoaches  to  Montgomery,  Ala- 
bama Co  umbus,  Indian  tiprings,  Georgia,  Greensboro', 
and  by  railroad  to  Charleston. 

Railroad  from  Charleston  to  Augusta  136  miles,  12 
hours.  The  country,  most  of  the  way  is  nearly  level,  and 
sandy,  with  few  objects  of  interest.  To  Woodstock  15 
miles,  Summersville  7,  Branchville  40,  Midway  10,  Blakes- 
ville  18,  Aiken  30.  Here  is  the  summit,  510  feet  above 
tide  water,  360  above  Augusta. 

Here  are  two  other  railroads  from  Augusta :  one  to 


212 


FROM   ClURT.KStON    TO   NKW-YOHK. 


V    i 


ft 


■'  \ 


n  -1 

*  I    '1 


Athens,  Georgia,  114  miles  northeaat;  one  caet  to 
GfCPn8f)orough  100.  A  railroad  ihereto  Knoxville,Tcn- 
neaaee  97,  in  to  ho  inado. 

From  Charleston  to  Savannah,  by  Steamboats  11  milei, 
Fort  Moultrie  4,  Coflin  Land  6,  Stony  Inlet  11,  S.  Kdis- 
to  Tnlet  27,  St.  llflcna  Sound  3,  Tiuncard's  Inlet  21, 
Hilton  Head  4,  Bloody  Point  18,  Savannah  17. 

By  land  118  miles,  A&hltiv  Kiver  6,  Grtcn'a  Tavern  8, 
Hick's,  do.  10,  JttcUsoii  Borough  10,  Tompon  Poat-ofTico 
3,  Thompson's  Tavern  1 1,  Saiiketcher  Church  9,  Pocoia- 
ligo  7,  Coosawhatcheo  (J,  Beck's  Ferry  23,  Savannah  25. 

From  Savannah  a  railroad  la  pailly  Unibhed  northeast 
to  Macon,  210. 

From  Charleston  to  New-York  by  ship,  670  miles. 

To  Cape  Fear  120  miles.  Cape  Look  Out  76,  Cape 
Hatteras  78,  Capea  of  Virginia  140,  Capo  May  120,  Bar- 
negat  70,  Now- York  liar  45,  Saudy  Jtlook  3,  Narrowu 
11,  New.Yoik8. 

From  Charleston  to  New- York,  by  land  and  water. 
Steamboat  to  VVihnington,  North  Carolina,  daily,  14 hours. 
Railroad  to  Weldon,  through  Waynesboro'  and  Enfield, 
10  hours.  Railroad  to  Portsmouth,  77  miles  up  the  Ches- 
apeake Bay.  Steamboat  to  James  River  6,  Old  Point 
Comfort  20,  New  Point  Comfort  10,  Rappahannock  river, 
55,  St.  Mary's  Outlet  43,  Port  Tobacco  38,  Mouth  of 
Potomac  15,  Mount  Vernon  30,  Alexandria  9,  Washing- 
ton city  6.  Railroad  to  Baltimore,  through  BlaUens- 
burgh. 

Or,  from  Norfolk  to  Baltimore  by  Steamboat  197 
milea.  Or  from  Norfolk  to  Richmond  by  Steamboat  117, 
passing  Jamestown  24,  the  first  settlement  in  Virginia, 
(1609.) 

Or,  from  Weldon,  North  Carolina,  to  Washington, 
through  Petersburgh,  204  miles.  Railroad  to  Petershurgh, 
Virginia  60,  Richmond  22,  Fredericksbnrgh  64,  BcUo- 
plaiue  11.     Steamboat  to  Washington,  as  before,  47. 


I    i 


RIFLECTlOJfS,   Ac. 


243 


D  cast  to 
:viUe,  Ten- 
is  II  milei, 
1,S.  Kdii- 
s  lnlei21, 

I  Tavern  8, 
Porti-ofTico 
9,  Pocolrt- 
vannah  25. 
noitltca^l 

miles. 
It  76,  Cape 
f  120,  Bar- 
),  Marruwti 

ind  water. 
/,  I4huur». 
1(1  Enfield, 
)  the  Cht'8- 
Old  Point 
nock  river, 
Mouth  of 
,  Washing- 
hi  BlaUcns- 

tiboat  197 
mboat  lir, 
1  Virginia, 

'^ashinglon, 
pterslmrgh, 
64,  Bello- 
re,  47. 


Rcjlcclions  of  the  Traveller  at  the  termination  of 
his  Journey. 

An  intolHgent  and  virtuous  iravollor  cannot  fail  to  have 
raado  nmt.y  useful  ob.s<,rvution8,  and  oxpcriencod  many 
oeling.,  ot  an  irileroHiinff  nature,  which  ho  will  wish  to 
liiy  up  in  hLs  memory,  and  recur  to  in  future.  In  such  a 
person,  travelling  tends  to  f„ster  patriotism  of  the  best 
kin..  We  lu.ow  tlw,  bouuty  of  that  inheritance,  which 
wo  have  received  from  our  ancestor^  when  we  have  soon 
It ;  and  intercourse  with  our  most  ostimablo  countrymen 
load.*  us  to  place  a  proper  value  on  our  national  institu- 
tions  and  national  union. 

On  returning  to  the  enjoyments  of  homo  and  friends, 
with  becoming  feelings  of  gratitude  to  Him,  whose  hand 
has  guided  and  protected  us,  how  natural  is  the  in- 
quiry  '  how^  may  I  act  for  the  improvement  of  society 
around  me  7  If  we  have  learned  any  lessons  of  disinter- 
estedness, let  us  endeavour  to  bring  them  into  habitual 
practice.  If  we  have  acquired  any  knowledge  whicli 
might  be  useful  to  agriculture,  arts  or  sciences  in  our 
neighbourhood,  let  us  impart  it  to  those  who  know  how 
to  apply  It.  Popular  lectures,  libraries  and  literary  and 
scientihc  associations  will  merit  patronage. 

One  of  the  most  important  subjects  wliich  now  occupy 
the  attention  ofour  countrymen,  is  public  education;  and 
in  several  of  the  states,  especially  that  of  New-York,  the 
traveller  may  have  seen  most  valuable  plans  of  improve- 
ment  in  operation.  No  man  can  bo  too  much  engrossed 
m  business,  or  in  too  obscure  a  situation,  to  exert  some 
useful  influence  in  favour  of  the  common  schools  of  his 
state,  county,  town,  or  district.  He  may  excite  that  in- 
terest m  others  which  he  feels  himself,  impart  to  them  simi- 
lar views,  assist  in  procuring  better  methods  of  instruc- 
tion or  discipline,  found  a  district  library,  or  in  some  other 
way  promote  the  diffusion  of  the  sound  knowledge,  habits, 
taste,  and  sentiments,  which  the  country  so  much  needs, 
for  her  happiness  and  security. 


II 


51: 


APPENDIX. 


■M 


M    ! 


•^ 


JCr/rrtc^  of  a  letter  from  the  liaroncaa  Kcidcael,  referred 

to  on  jKige  01, 

"  But  iirvoro  triiiU  nwaiti'd  im,  nrul  im  llio  7lli  «)f  Octo- 
ber, our  nurtfortuiics  brguiu  I  wuh  at  l.ronklii-t  with  my 
ljiJHlmii«l,  uiiil  ln«jml  iliiit  Honinhiii^r  wuh  iuuuulfcl.  ( )n  tim 
jnmo  cl.iy  I  rxjK.ri.'il  (Jciu-riilH  BiirKoyno,  I'iullipH  mui 
frim.r  to  ilinu  wiUi  im.  1  huw  u  Krciit  mov.'in.uit  among 
Uio  troops ;  my  hiishiuul  toKl  mo,  it  wnj*  moroly  a  rocon- 
iiiiiHManns  vvliidi  fftivo  mo  i)..c(uuMTfi,  rirt  it  ofton  »mj)iM;ii.«l. 
1  Wttllu'd  out  of  tl».i  houso  anil  met  Hovoial  Indiimrt  in  jlioir 
war  dr.««HOH,  witli  ^una  in  tlicir  hands.  WIhmi  1  aHkcd 
thrm  wli(>ro  tlioy  wi'ni  ;;oin,j;,  they  cried  out  War!  War* 
(mcamn^ir  ,h,,y  w,„.„  ^„j,,.,  ,„  |„mi„.)     j.,,i^  j;„,.,j  ^^^  ^j^,^ 

Bppn<lu'nrtion,  and  I  sciuct^ly  got  homo  hofoni  1  heard  ro- 

ports  of  canrum  and  nmsUetry,  whicii  grew  louder  by  d«!- 

greoH,   till  at  iast  th(5  nois((  hocamo  extuissive.     Al>out  4 

«  clock  in  the  aflerno.Mi,  instead  of  tho  guests  whom  I  ex- 

I)ecied,  Goncral  Kni/.er  was  l)rouglit  on  a  littor  mortally 

wound.>d.    Tho  tal.li^  which  was  already  s.-t,  was  instantly 

removed,  an.l  a  bed  placed  in  its  stead  for  tho  wounded 

lioneral.     1    sat   trembling  in  a  comer;  tho  noise  grew 

ouder  and  th»uilarm  increased;  tho  thought  that  my  hus- 

band  might  prrhaj.s  bo  brought  in,  wounded  in  the  samo 

way,  was  t(<rnl)lo  t(.  mc,  and  distressed  mo  exceedingly. 

(loaeral  I  razor  said  to  the  smgeon,  '  tell  me  if  my  wound 

U  mortal,  donotjhilter  mc'  The  ball  had  passed  through 

liis  body,  and  unhappily  for  the  General,  he  had  oaten  u 

vnry  h,.arty  breakfast,  by  which  the  stomach  was  distended, 

and  tho  ball,  as  th(!  surgeon  said,  iiad  piissed  throu'rh  it.     I 

heard  hi.n  often  exclaim  with  a  sigh,  '  Oh  fatal  ambition  • 

1  oor  General  liurgoyne !  Oh  u)y  poor  wife  !'  lie  was  asked 

M  he  had  any  re.iuojjl  to  make,  to  uliicb  be  r..r.i;..,l    t\,»t 
-  ■    '      —  "t f  "••»» 


re/crrod 


I  «)f  Octo- 
wiih  my 
On  tlio 
illiim  nnd 
tit  amiing 
'  ft  riH'on- 
itippoiutd. 
irt  ill  tlioir 
I  I  iihIu'J 
ar ! 


W 


mo  wiil» 
icnrtl  fo- 
ur by  d«?- 

Alxjut  4 
uiii  I  nx- 
inortally 
itiHtuntly 
M'ouiulud 
ise  {{TOW 

my  liuH- 
lio  Hunio 
'odiiifjly. 
y  wound 

tlu'Ollgll 

vmen  a 
sU'iidud, 
?h  it.     1 
iibilion .' 
IS  asked 


•ir  fJoncml  Hiuxoyno  would  j.rriiiil  if,  lio  nlioiiM  ]ik<^  to 
««  bur...d  at  Nix  «.'<iiK;k  in  ilm  rvriiinK  on  ibr  lop  of  a 
•noiinluin,  in  a  ivibml)!  wbi.b  had  bi-.-n  built  ibi-rn.'  I  did 
iiotknow  vvbirli  way  lo  luni,  all  ibo  oibn-  loonin  won,  f.dl 
•»r  Hi.k.  Towanln  ovoiiin;,'  I  Maw  my  InNband  ooininc, 
tbon  I  Jorf^otiill  my  Hom.wH  and  llianko.l  (iod  tbat  lio  wan 
"pMi-od  to  mo.  fh,  1,1,1  iiif^rral  lia.io  wiib  inn  and  bis  aid- 
<b-rn.np,  brbmd  tl„.  |,„U4...  Wo  bad  boon  robj  ibat  wn 
bad  ibo  advanla';o  of  tbo  onomv,  bin  tbo  sorrowful  faron  I 
bfbold  (old  a  dilb-iont  talo.  and  bofoio  my  busband  wont 
uwiiy,  bo  took  mo  ono  Hido,and  H.iid  ovory  ibin;;  waM  ^roi,,* 
vory  bad,  JJial  I  murtt  koop  niysolf  in  nMidinoMH  \n  loavo 
lb(i  placo,  but  not  to  montion  it  fo  any  om*.  (  niadn  tbo 
jM'otoriro  (bat  1  would  natvo  tbo  in-xt  inornin;':  into  my  new 
boiiHo,  and  laid  ov.-ry  fbin«^  packed  up  iriidy.' 

"  ''<i'ly  M.  A(^klnnd  bad  a  tent  not  far  fioiii  our  honno; 
i»   tbiH  Hbo  Hloi.f,  and  Ibo  roHt  of  tbn  day  nbo  was  m  tho 
J'anip.      All  ol   a  Hiiddon  a  man  oamo  fo  toll  hop  fbut  hor 
lusband  wan    moiially   wounded  and  taken  pri»..,n.T }  on 
IieaniiK  »bH  hIio  boramo  very  miserablo;  wn  o..mfortod  boT 
by  lelbn^r  |„,,.,  tlnit  fbo  wound  wart  only  «li^r|,t,  ,i„d  m  tho 
»ame  time  a.iviHed  b,.,.  to  ^m,  <,ver  to  bor  buHband,  lo  do 
wliir  I  Hbo  woubl  cortainly  obtain  penniH«ion,  and  thon  aho 
coald  attend  bim  born.df ;  hIio  wan  a  obarminK  woman  and 
V(My  lond  of  Inm.     I  H,,ont  much  of  tbo  nijirlit  in  comforting 
bor,  iirid  tb(ui  went  afraiii  to  mv  diildron  wbom  I  liad  put 
to  bo(  .     J  could  iH.i  go  to  hI..o[,,  urt  I  barl  Gonoml  Fru/or 
and  111!  the  otber  wounded   K«'i'll<'"ion  in  my  room,  nnd  I 
was   Ha(  ly  afraid  my  <diildren  w<.uld  awake,  and  by  tboir 
cryinff  d.Hturb  tbo  dyin^^  ,„««  in  bis  last   monientH,  who 
olton  addroHHod  uw  and  npolo^ized  '/or  the  Irouhle  he 
gave  me:     About  throe  oVl(,t:k  in  fb<'  morning  T  was  told 
ho  could  not  hold  out  much  bm-er ;  J  Imd  d.-Hinul   to  bo 
mfoniiod  ot   tb(5  near  approach  of  thiH  Had  criHis,  and  I 
then  wrapped   up  my  children  in  flieir  clothe«,  and  wont 
With  tluMu  into  tbo  room  below.     About  8  o'clock  in  tho 
morning'  Ac  died.     After  ho  was  laid  out  and  his  con.BO 
wnipped  „pi„  a  sljeet,  wo  came  a-ain  into  tho  room,  and 
ba.    Ibis  sorrowful  si-ht  before  us  tbo  wholo  day,  and  to 
add  to  this  melancholy  scene,  almost  every  moment  somo 
o.bcor  of  niy  acrpiauitanco  wits  br(Jii-ht  in  wounded.     The 
cunnonado  commenced  again  ;  a  reireat  nag  tpoken  of. 


' 


S4n 


APPKWDIx; 


4 


in 


la! 


.  I; 


•r| 


i 


»    I  '<^i 

U-'i- 

I     4 

K?«i 

'.4    ^t: 

1,;. 

but  not  tlio  smnllcut  motion  wn«  mndo  townnl^  it.  \h<ntt 
4  o'clock  ill  tlio  nCtcrnoon  I  saw  tho  hoiiBo  which  hnd  jimt 
been  Ituiltf'or  mo  in  flnmes,  and  tho  enemy  wu«  now  n«)t  fur 
oft'.  Wi)  kiuw  Jhnt  (lerierni  FiiirRoyno  would  not  refiirto 
tho  Inst  rcquL'sl  of  General  Knizer,  though  hy  hi;*  acceding 
to  it,  nn  unnoce«snry  delay  was  occasioned,  hy  which  the 
inronvenienco  of  tho  army  was  nuich  increased.  At  G 
o'clock  th«)  corpse  was  brought  out,  and  we  saw  all  tho 
Generals  attend  it  to  the  mountain;  the  chnnlain,  Mr. 
Brundell,  peiformed  tho  fiinerul  service,  renflered  unusri.Ily 
Bolomn  and  awful,  from  its  being  accompanied  by  constant 
pouls  from  tho  enemy's  artillery.  Many  cannon  !> -II;!  flew 
close  by  mo,  but  I  had  my  eyos  directed  towards  tho 
motmtain,  where  my  husband  was  standing,  amidst  tho 
fire  of  the  enemy,  and  of  course,  I  could  not  think  of  my 
own  danger.  General  Gates  afterwards  said,  that  if  ho 
had  known  it  had  been  a  funeral  he  would  not  have  per- 
mitted It  to  bo  fired  on." 

Lady  Harriot  Ackland  went  to  tho  Americon  camp 
after  tho  action,  to  take  care  of  hor  husband  before  tho 
surrender,  and  tho  Baroness  Reidosel  afterwards.  Thoy 
were  both  received  with  tho  greatest  kindness  and  deli- 
cacy, epecially  by  General  Schuyler. 


Population  according  to  the  Census  of  1830  and  1840. 


Maine, 

Now-Hampshiro, 

Vermont,     - 

Massachusetts,    • 

Rhode  Island, 

Connecticut, 

New-York, 

New-Jersey, 

Pennsylvania, 

Delaware, 

Maryland, 

Ohio, 


1830 
399,955 
269,328 
280,652 
610,408 

I,'JiC,o08 
320,823 

1,348,233 

76,748 

447,040 

937,903 


1840 
501,798 
284,481 
291,818 
737,784 
108,837 
3:C.;iil 

2,432,835 
373,276 

1,850,000 

78,12a 

467,567 

1,515,703 


.  Ahmit 
hnd  jiiKt 
>v/  not  fur 
(»t  rrfiiHO 
acceding' 
viiicli  tlio 
il.  At  G 
w  nil  tho 
iiin,  Mr. 
Linusu.'.lly 
ronntRnt 
>;ill:i  (low 
nrds  iho 
inulHt  tho 
nk  of  my 
bat  if  ho 
lavo  per- 

an  camp 
pforo  tho 
9.  Thoy 
and  deli- 


INDEX. 


nd  1840'. 

140 

,798 
,481 
,818 
,784 
,837 
Ail 
,835 
,276 
,000 
,120 
,567 
,70» 


.xoc/n 


Alhnny 

Alexandria  (D 
AnihciHt 
Andn-'s  Ciravn 
Cnptuio  and 
AndoviT 

Anlhony'n  Nr)^o,  Iltid 
son  River 
on  Erie  Canal 
Lake.    George 
Anii(|niiic8  143,  45,09,  73 
A({ii(>diii:t 

al  Lilile  Falls 
Rochester 
Arnold'rt  Treachery 
Arsenals 
Troy 
Quebec 
Springfield 
Ascutnoy  Mountain 
Anbnrn 

Ballsion  Springs 
Baltimore 
Bangor 
Batavia 
Bath  {Maine) 
(N.  //.) 

(N.  y.) 

Battle  of  Beiimis's 
Heights 
Bennington 
Bloody  Brook 
Bridgewater,  or  Lun 

dy'3  Lane  r)7 

Bunker's  Hill  177 

22 


23,  27 

C.)      21M 

ir)7 

ir> 

19 
180 


17 

3r> 

90 


37 
4  (J 
19 

28 
126 
2r)3 
162 

72 

82 
220 
213 

69 
211 
165 

13 

75,  7R 

77 
158 


(.'fiippnwa 

Krl(! 

(iroion 

Lake  (Jeorge 

Lexington 

Mf)nini(;roncy 

i'e(|Mnd 

IMultrthurgli 

Qnehec 

Do.  In  1770 

(ineension 

Sill  ij  toga 

Ticondt  roga 

Turner's  Kails 

White  Plains 
Bellows'  Falls 
Black  Kock 
Bloody  Brook 

Pond 
IJIoondieJd 
Blue  Hills 
Boston 

Brattleborough 

Bridgeport 

Brock'rt  Monument 

Brook  field 

Brooklyn  (N.  Y.) 

Bufliilo 

Bunker's  Hill 

Burgoynr's  (Gen.)  Ex 

pcdition 

BaUlc  Ground 

Quarf.ers 

Burlington  (  Vt.)    107,  164 

Caldwell  9y 


51 

61 
167 

93 
185 
135 
141,  168 
109 
132 
133 

51 
75,  78 

96 
159 

14 
160 

66 
158 

90 

70 

175 

17b 

160 

140 

51 

184 

J2 

(iC) 

177 


79 
77 
81 


S48 


INDEX. 


'^4 


i,M 


M. 


Canada,  Genr  iIRe- 

Falls. 

marks  oi 

60 

An  Sable 

IDS 

Ca,  %ls. 

Baker's 

140 

Blackstono  Canal 

174 

Bellows 

160 

Krio 

31 

Culhage 

46 

Furmhigton 

143 

Calsk'U 

21 

Ohio 

GL 

Glenn's 

89 

Weilanii 

57 

Cohoes 

31 

Canal  Boat,  Descrip- 

Little 

36 

tion  of 

28 

Miller's 

140 

Cniiaiidaigua 

70 

Montmorency 

133 

Cape  Diumond 

129 

Niagara 

50 

Carthage 

46 

Rochester 

46 

Catskill 

21 

South  Hadley 

154 

Mountains 

21 

Trenton 

39 

Caughnawuge 

34 

Turner's 

159 

Cemeteries  (AT.  Y.)  11 

,   12 

Fishkill 

20 

"           Mt.  Auburn 

179 

Flushitig 

12 

Charlestown  (Mass.) 

177 

Franconia 

165 

(N.  H.) 

161 

Forts, 

Coal  Mines 

227 

Adams 

172 

Cincinnati 

222 

Anne 

138 

Cleaveiand 

68 

Clinton 

16 

Cohoes  Fails 

31 

Crown  Point 

105 

Colleges. 

Edward 

139 

Amherst 

157 

George 

93 

Brown 

174 

Grisvvold 

167 

Hamilton 

39 

Herkimer 

88 

Union 

32 

Lee 

14 

Washington 

150 

Miller 

140 

Yale 

142 

Montgomery 

16 

Connecticut  River 

145 

Niagara 

63 

Dedham 

174 

Oswego 

64 

Deertield 

158 

Erie 

61 

Dobb's  Ferry 

15 

Putnam 

17 

Dorchester  Heights 

178 

Say brook 

145 

Eas^ Canada  Creek 

35 

Stanwix 

40 

East   Hartford 

152 

Ticoiideroga 

99 

East  River 

141 

Trumbull 

166 

Education  in  N.  York 

86 

Washington 

14 

Essex  C  Conn.) 

147 

William  Henry 

95 

Fairfield 

141 

Gates'  (Gen.)  Camp 

77 

i '     It 


1ND£X. 


249 


Geneseo 
Geneva 
Gloim's  Falls 
Grnveseiid 
Greenfipld 
Greonwich 
Gulf  Road 
HiiHdiiin 
H  lid  ley 
Hampton 
Hanover 
Harlem 

Hartford  (Conn.) 
Hatfield 

Haverhill  (N.  H.) 
Herkimer 
Highlandri 
History  of  N.  York 
Vermont 
Muss. 
Hudson 

Hydrostatic  Locks 
Indians. 
Mohegatis  lo9, 

Pequods 
Senecas 
Tuscaroras 
Jacques  Carrier 
Johnson  (Sir  Wm.) 
Johnstown 
Junction 
K^  nnebunk 
Kingston 

Kosciusko's  Retreat 
Luchine 

Lakes. 
Cayuga 
Ciiumplain 
Erie 


G9 
71 
89 
1.3 
159 
141 
162-3 
147 
157 
205 
164 
14 
149 
157 
165 
38 
16 
11,  32 
163 
177,  180 
2? 
30 


171 

168 
Gd 
49 

125 
34 
34 
31 

207 
21 
18 

119 


George 


Oiitaiio 

Saratoga 

Seneca 


72 

99,  137 

60,  67 

88,  90,  ^7 

63 

85 

71 


Western  60 

Lnnciister  166 

Laprairie  113 

Lelianon  Springs  24 

Lewiston  49 

Lexington  185 

Litile  Fails  36 

Lock  port  48 

Long  Branch  13 

Lerette  135 

Lowell  187 

ivt'Crea's  Murder  139 

Mnrblehead  205 

.Middletown  148 
Military    Academy—' 

West  Point  18 
Minerals  of  New-York     85 

Conn.  143 

Mohawk  river  31 

Montpelier  163 

Montreal  114 

xMount  Holyoke  155 

Hope  172 

Vernon  218 

Nahant  179 

Newburgh  20 

Newburyport  205 

New- Haven  142 
New-Lebanon  Springs     24 

New-London  166 

Newport  172 
Niagara  Falls  from  Ame- 
rican side 
Canada  side 
Northampton 
Ogdensburgh 
Ohio 
Oiieida 

Orange  Springs 
Oswego 
Canal 
Ox  Bow 


50 
53 

155 
65 

821 
41 
13 
64 
42 

165 


50 


INUSX. 


7    I  .s. 

it-'. 

\l    ' 


Palisadoea 

13 

Burnintf^ 

B5,  70 

Pawtuckct 

174 

New  Lebanon 

24 

Pine  Orchard 

21 

New-York 

85 

Pittsburgh 

2:>2 

Orange 

13 

Plains  of  Abraham 

131 

Saratoga 

83 

Plattsburgh 

108 

Suiliold 

153 

Plymouth 

180 

Stillwater 

74 

Port  Kent 

108 

Stoning-ton 

168 

Portland 

207 

Siony  Point 

16 

Portsmouth 

20G 

Syracuse 

42 

Poughkeepsio 

21 

Table  Rock 

53 

Piisons,  (State) 

Tappan 

15 

Connecticut 

149 

Turrytown 

16 

New-York               7e 

;,  72 

Thames  Rivef 

169 

Providence 

173 

Three  Rivers 

123 

Quebec 

126 

Toronto 

60 

Queenstown 

51 

Roi  *e  to  Saratoga 

74 

Rapids  of  Niagara 

54 

Troy 

29 

Richelieu 

124 

Utica 

38 

Rensselnerwyck 

28 

Valley  of  St.  Lawrence    60 

Ridge  Road 

48 

Verplanck's  Point 

16 

Rockaway 

13 

Virginia  Springs 

219 

Saco 

207 

Wulpole  (N.  H  ) 

160 

Sackett'a  Harbour 

65 

Washington 

215 

St.  John's 

110 

Waterford 

74 

St.  Lawrence         113, 

121 

Wehawken 

13 

Salem 

204 

Welland  Canal 

58 

Salina 

43 

Welles 

206 

Salt  Spring' 

44 

West  Point 

17,  18 

Saratoga, 

83 

VVethersfield(Con.) 

149 

Saugerties 

21 

Whirlpool 

52 

Say brook 

145 

Whitehall 

137 

Schenectady               32 

f     O.J 

White  River 

162 

Schoharie  Creek 

34 

William  Henry 

122 

Schooley's  Mountain 

Windsor  (Con.) 

153 

Springs 

13 

(Ver.) 

162 

Shaker  Village 

26 

Wiscasset 

211 

Sing  Sing 

16 

Wolfe's  Core 

13ir 

Sorel  Village 

122 

Worcester 

152 

South  Hadiey 

154 

York  (Maine) 

207 

Springs. 

Ballston 

82 

iga 


wrcnce 
int 

9 


on.) 


55,  70 

24 

85 

13 

83 

153 

74 

168 

16 

42 

S3 

15 

16 

169 

123 

60 

74 

29 

38 

60 

16 

219 

160 

215 

74 

13 

58 

206 

17,  18 

149 

52 

137 

162 

122 

153 

162 

211 

132 

152 

2W 


/Ai^^^iJ  ^^^-^Sl  - 


7 


